her secret garden, all in seersucker…
a place to indulge and amuse …
in a pannier and a robe à la polonaise …
she observes, she promenades …
she is quiet …
until she is not …
in shades of grey, yellow, pink, green and blue …
in navy and gold, and finally in white …
thom browne’s codified east coast prep mixes with 1780s versailles and 1980s punk …
seersucker is reimagined …
in silk taffeta and sheer organdy…
pleated and gathered, embroidered and laminated …
slashed on corsets, frayed on hems …
the eighteenth century robe à la polonaise is draped over a classic pannier …
twisted and turned into something new …
peplum jackets and corsets exaggerate shoulders, hips, and waists …
the thom browne oxford shirt is reinterpreted with a gathered sleeve …
dresses, skirts and trousers take their voluminous forms …
the boned cage sits as an understructure, or is worn on top to become visible …
and beneath, a pair of taffeta bloomers peek through …
her secret garden, a place of fantasy and fun …
for amusing scenes to unfold on embroideries, and tulle trimmings to foam and froth …
heels disappear …
hair goes up, and a little more …
welcome to her secret garden …
she could tell you more, listen closely …
(more…)
Tags: SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2020, THOM BROWNE, THOM BROWNE SS 2020
Thu, October 3 2019 » Fashion Blog
Mon, June 24 2019 » Fashion Blog
Strictly, playfully. A celebration of a mens tailored sensibility, for women. Tailoring rigor and couture craftsmanship. Severity and frivolity.
In January 2009, Thom Browne introduced his vision to Europe for the first time in Florence during Pitti Uomo with a performance staged at Istitituto di Scienze Militari Aeronautiche. Ten years have passed since. The singular idea that ignited an ongoing quest kept evolving and expanding, maintaining the strictness and the playfulness it originated from. The anniversary is the perfect occurrence to show how much.
The show of 2009 is replicated in 2019, in detail. Up to a point. Men sat at their desks typing in tailored grey suits, then. Women sit at their desk typing, now. What they wear is a playful rumination on that strictly tailored look.
A full wardrobe. Chesterfield coats, jackets, trousers are interpreted in inlays, intarsia, buillon embroidery, satin stitch embroidery on tweeds, checked tweeds, down filled tweeds, shetland wools. Thom Browne’s signature grosgrain tape and duck motifs are played with, extensively. The strict base of the look offers ample room for an exploration of embellishment and couture technique. Playfully, strictly.
This and that. Every full outfit is rendered in trompe l’oeil, for sake of technical prowess. Detail by detail, three dimensional to two dimensional. Strictly, playfully. A masculine sensibility pervades it all, down to the socks, garters, briefcases and brogues. Strictly, playfully.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, THOM BROWNE, THOM BROWNE FW 2019-20
Tue, March 5 2019 » Fashion Blog
this and THAT.
the world as it is, and the WORLD AS TB SEES IT. toying with proportions.
this and THAT.
normal scale and ANOTHER SCALE. a jacket and a JACKET, a shirt and a SHIRT, chinos and CHINOS.
an anthology of true american preppy – a defining trait of the world through thom browne lenses – blown up to ridiculous proportions.
the seersuckers, gingham checks, oxford stripes, rugby stripes are magnified just as the light blues, sun yellows, kelly greens and pinks are saturated. shoes gain platforms, mini gets maxi. bowler hat and round glasses to seal it all.
this and THAT.
the ordinary and the couture: what’s screen printed turns into intarsia when exploded, stitches change into crystal embroidery, wools become mink. the blowing up is both literal and metaphorical, using sartorial finesse as a tool. altering proportions as a matter of virtuoso skill.
this and THAT.
always in comparison, so that the joke is apparent.
the process is reversible.
take off the glasses, and THAT is back to this.
this and THAT.
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Tags: SPRING SUMMER MEN 2019, THOM BROWNE, THOM BROWNE SS 2019
Tue, July 10 2018 » Fashion Blog
Lady painters painting portraits of ladies of all shapes and of all sizes. all beautiful, in grey flannel. anatomic studies and flights of fancy. a fluttering of forms, frills and froth, in chiaroscuro.
For his second parisian outing, thom browne plays with his signature menswear fabric molding it into womanly shapes and taking them to couture extremes. he does so by sticking to a strict grey flannel agenda.
Flannel, flannel and only flannel, everywhere. draped, pintucked, pleated, embroidered with pearls or flannel threads, inlaid. flannel with trompe l’oeil shading and marble effects. Flannel that flows around the anatomy and accentuates curves where you’d least expect it, in scales of grey with a smattering of white.
Enhancing voluptuous womanliness through a dry masculine fabric ignites a series of inverted actions, as the back of garments gets to the front, or disappears revealing what’s beneath, in trompe l’oeil.
Treasures of womanliness are hidden and protected under square subway coats, as garters and bras peek-a-boo. Masculine angles, feminine curves hiding and revealing tailoring and couture archetypal dialogues find a chiaroscuro harmony in grey flannel.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, THOM BROWNE, THOM BROWNE FW 2018-19
Thu, March 8 2018 » Fashion Blog
