The collection’s starting point is Ireland and the Irish Wren Boys who traditionally would hunt the Wren on St Stephen’s day. They would go to people’s houses and knock on doors to sing to ask for money. The grand old houses of Ireland now in faded repairs. With peeling wallpaper prints and dusty blues, broken plates and crockery drummed like tin cans. Dancing through towns and playing instruments.
Showing in a Victorian theatre originally opened in 1875 and recently reopened and restored in Alexandra Palace, with the original faded walls and high ceilings … I want to it to feel like they are coming to knock down doors….come in and parade in a circle. Marching through in heavily lipped brogues and studded pearls.
The fabrications are inspired by the interiors of the houses the Wren Boys knocked on, translating into peeling wallpaper prints printed on silk taffeta, faded blue Delph is embroidered onto ivory tulle and printed scallops on organza patchworked into garments. Organzas are embroidered with Broderie Anglaise daisies and Mulberry berries.
Tailoring is introduced through embroidered lace taffetas and technical trench cloths. Pieces that are deconstructed, with dresses balancing masculinity and femininity. Layered like feathers, like feathers of a Wren. The fairy wren with its blue and white tail. Silk brocade suits woven like fine upholsterers and feathery light Cloqués. Dress coats and dropped frill suits, a uniformity of frills.
Hand-macramé aprons in hay and raffia worn as harness and dresses. Layered over embroidered tulle lace pieces. Ending with exaggerated shapes and portions explored within the collection.
With a cast of Irish characters including theatre actress Olwen Fouéré, Jessie Buckley, Simone Kirby, Charlene McKenna, Valene Kane and beyond with Tia Bannon and Lesley Manville….creating a cast alongside the girls and boys parading to the Wren.
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Tags: SIMONE ROCHA, SIMONE ROCHA SS 2020, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2020
Mon, September 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
Boys and Girls
Combining men’s and women’s on this season’s runway, S/S 20 explores duality while continuing to define the concept of easy, elevated wardrobe dressing for the 3.1 global citizen. Utility, youthful tailoring, cut, volume, print and color find commonality in both collections, expressed in distinctly nuanced ways.
Utility and flou engage in harmonious dialogue, highlighting the novel elements introduced this season – new shapes, exaggerated proportions and innovative core fabrics, always building on seasons past. Utility features prominently in day and new evening silhouettes with buoyant shapes for women, and underscores a seasonless, elevated uniform for men, revealing the purposeful construction of a garment’s interior details.
A leather group and a fluid lacquered finish fabric create a soft tailoring effect in womenswear, and subvert traditional menswear, deconstructing tailored pieces and referencing performance sportswear.
A printed group features an over printing technique that creates imperfections in the print and negative space in the garment, revealing beauty in typically hidden spaces. Women’s prints – inspired by Warhol’s Daisy screen prints – are whimsical and abstracted, while men’s prints – inspired by Rauschenberg’s Combines and by old postcards of road travel and the American West – offer a more literal interpretation.
Women’s fil coupé with prints trapped in organza carries over from Pre-Spring 2020, and links back to transparent netting details in this season’s accessories. A slash detail in women’s tailored and knitwear pieces lends movement to utilitarian separates. New women’s shoe styles, including espadrilles and mules, feature cage and mesh transparencies, and stud and ring embellishment details.
The Alexa, a core shoe, is presented in a deconstructed version with cutouts, while the Alix builds on its signature paperclip ornament detail with the addition of two new styles – the Flatform sandal and a slide. The Odita Lattice Pouch is a new addition to the Odita bag family, while the Alix chain bag is updated with a slightly modified shape and new magnetic closure detail.
The brand’s “cool, easy, chic” mantra is further defined for S/S 20 in directional silhouettes, fabrications and styling. “Clothing is our medium, and wardrobe is the medium through which I can communicate values that are important to me: craft, diversity, purpose and hope. These are the values we share at 3.1 Phillip Lim, the values we aspire to that will manifest true beauty.” -Phillip Lim
This season, as ever, we celebrate community and the wider 3.1 Tribe by partnering with like-minded brands who champion beauty with responsibility, and share our pursuit of achieving a sustainable balance. For S/S 20, we are proud to partner with artist and designer Ariana Boussard-Reifel, whose sculptural jewelry is informed by a sense of wanderlust and strong cultural references. Each piece is ethically and sustainably made by hand in her New York studio.
With UZ, a newly launched global beauty brand committed to using safe, sustainably-sourced ingredients that are never tested on animals. With Just Water, a packaged water brand making conscious material choices that help people and the planet. We also continue our partnership with Aveda, a pioneer in championing sustainable, environmentally friendly practices and cruelty-free hair and beauty products.
This season, Aveda and 3.1 Phillip Lim are taking steps to make backstage more beautiful by minimizing single-use plastic, ensuring recycling is readily available and offsetting a portion of the carbon emissions from the show to lessen its environmental impact.
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Tags: 3.1 PHILLIP LIM, 3.1 PHILLIP LIM SS 2020, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2020, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2020
Sun, September 22 2019 » Fashion Blog
Rag & Bone unveiled a new concept to celebrate its return to New York Fashion Week, with a showcase of the brand’s spring/summer 2020 collection. The decommissioned stock exchange trading floor at Skylight on Vesey, provided an iconic New York backdrop for an experience that furthers the brands focus on challenging the status quo.
Rag & Bone was born out the desire to create unique products and experiences through the fusion of contrasting aesthetics. No stranger to breaking the mold, the proposition of the brand was brought to life through the collaboration of creative forces tapped from the worlds of fashion, music and technology. This new experience saw each of these disciplines collide while working in perfect harmony.
Drummers Joey Waronker and Mauro Refosco (Atoms For Peace) spotlit on center stage set the tone with The Brooklyn Youth Chorus while two dancers brought the vision of Choreographer Damien Jalet (Suspiria, Anima) to life through movement across the circular runway.
In contrast to the flowing human movements of the performers, a UR10 robot joined the moment, slowly awaking and observing the audience and performers. Together man and machine moved in sync, with video captured by the robot using a live action feed and point cloud capture (computer vision). Broadcast in realtime on screens throughout the space the robotic arm and dual-camera techniques provided the audience with a novel way to see the show.
The Rag & Bone SS20 collection is a journey through different aesthetics and an exploration of brand tenets, American workwear, English inspired tailoring, military and sport. The fusion of these contrasting silhouettes, fabrications and color creates an unexpected mix, resulting in an eclectic offering that is uniquely Rag & Bone.
The attitude of the brand is brought to life through the focus on effortless, easy wearing pieces. With function at the forefront, each stand on their own or mashed up with opposing silhouettes and reference points to provide the wearer with a uniform-like expression of their individuality.
Intentionally swaying away from defining gender, the focus is shifted to the unique identity of each character—with the entirety of the men’s and women’s collections used to create the looks.
The collection opens with bold tailoring and knitwear, refreshed through the use of banker stripes and regalia inspired detailing. Masculine mixes with feminine through the use of oversized Savile Row-esque silhouettes, while tennis sweaters are reconditioned in fisherman-rib knits with bold regalia v-neck stripes, providing versatile pieces for the wearer.
Lighter technical fabrications, layered with scarf-like angular monochrome graphics are seen across dresses, underpinnings and skirts while the brand’s expertise in denim is apparent through the use of washed Japanese selvedge in jeans, shorts, shirting and gilets.
Track style striping and Hawaiian floral-camo prints add pops of color and contrast to the soft hues of Japanese military worked into the offering. Safety orange further brightens the palette with flashes in jackets and pants while soft pinstripe tailoring and seam sealed lightweight outerwear add versatility and comfort from the elements.
The experience was delivered to the audience set to an unexpected musical fusion of the Waronker/Refocsco percussion and the eerily melodic tones of the Brooklyn Youth Chorus, with a rendition of Nina Simone’s “Sinnerman” accompanying the models through the finale.
“Contrasts & Perspectives” was designed to animate the Rag & Bone aesthetic, while amplifying the brand values of creating authentic and innovative experiences through the fusion of contrasting disciplines.
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Tags: RAG & BONE, RAG & BONE SS 2020, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2020, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2020
Sun, September 22 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sies Marjan presents its Spring ‘20 Women’s Collection in New York. The palette, taken from make-up and nail polish colors, is elaborated upon in lavish new silhouettes and through an exploration into vol- ume and draping. Strong attention to craftsmanship reflects a desire for a sophisticated and exquisite wardrobe.
From Creative Director Sander Lak: “This collection is a rejection of irony, bad taste, satire, reality TV, and kitsch. It celebrates the beauty of having the time and freedom to create and consider your choices… the antithesis of rushing.”
Lak utilizes denim in new and unexpected styles and shapes. Unwashed and untreated basic denim is tailored as if it were a fine wool into sharp suiting, while soft, bleached denim is draped into elegant dresses and fluid trench coats.
A fascination with the look and feel of animal skins leads to stunning textures — crocodile-embossed double duchess satin and airy reptile-embossed silk — in majestic navy and sun-kissed apricot hues. Lacquered crocodile-embossed leather, reminiscent of glassy lip gloss, pops in shades such as vibrant red, rich emerald, sumptuous vanilla, and deep navy.
“I have a desire for the beauty of wealth and time, but never in excess,” says Lak. “Strolling over running. Quality over quantity.”
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Tags: SIES MARJAN, SIES MARJAN SS 2020, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2020
Sun, September 22 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, September 21 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, September 21 2019 » Fashion Blog
BABY-X
(S20-ALYX-AAM)
(S20-ALYX-AAW)
We engage with systems, scales, and soul. Our commitment to defining the contemporary evolves as a synthesis of moments.
Pliancy is a strength. Enforcing our belief in the value of the human hand, Alyx instrumentalises tradition as technology. Unifying sustainable processes and experimentation, the collection energises affinities between construction, craft, and emotion.
Our technical lexicon is a practical result of attentive, applied thought. In collaboration with Italian tailors, we have established artisanal vocabularies that unite traditional expertise and artistry with new techniques in construction. The individuality of the artwork is found through the hand of the artist.
Knit technologies reframe the relationship between high-performance and comfort, leveraging 3-D printing in a seamless, almost waste-free process. A combination of hand-applied dye and fabric treatments expand the dimension of the collection, and bonded leather establishes a robust material language.
A sculptural detail by Antonia Evans translates a distorted natural form into hardware cast in metal and resin.
Aligning hardware and utility across all categories and collaborations, this collection takes as its drive the manifold present. Evolution is a process of expansion and refinement.
BONDING
We have spliced the natural characteristics of leather with new technologies. Bonding leather to Dyneema®, the world’s strongest fibre, we have developed a muscular material with a unique structural silhouette. The near waterless dyeing processes of ECCO leather DriTanTM underlines our pursuit of high ecological standards and expands the spectrum of colours to our leathers.
QUANTAM DYE
Developed with Italian artisans, a combination of garment dye and fabric treatments shape a multi-step procedure that results in uniquely dimensioned textures and colours.
AMF
Details and hardware use raw material sourced from AMF, an entirely sustainable factory. Their commitment to sustainable practice incorporates automated production processes, the use of safe chemicals, and the elimination of waste from natural resources.
SUSTAINABILITY
Transparency is central in understanding the cycle of a garment. We continue to amplify our role in and obligation to progressive sustainable processes. With Majocchi, we are focused on radical reductions in water waste. With Recover, recycled nylon, AMF, and ECCO leather DriTanTM we present new textiles embedded in stringently recycled materials.
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Tags: 1017 ALYX 9SM, 1017 ALYX 9SM SS 2020, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2020, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2020
Sun, June 30 2019 » Fashion Blog
For our ultimate collection for KENZO, the Spring-Summer 2020 collection, we looked to the home of our founder Kenzo Takada, and more specifically to the surrounding seas of Japan where groups of strong, tenacious and modern-day super-heroes plunge daily
to retrieve treasures at the bottom of the ocean.
The Ama are groups of Japanese female free divers, who, for over 2000 years have dived to the ocean floor to forage for seafood such as shrimp, urchins or even pearls for their communities. They train from their beginnings as teenagers, taught by their predecessors who can dive well into their 70s.
Due to breath training, Ama can stay underwater for significant amounts of time in one go. Over time their numbers have declined, and these intrepid fisherwomen can now only be found sporadically in pockets along the Japanese coastlines. Withstanding harsh and sometimes freezing temperatures, they have become known as the last mermaids.
Our collections are a tapestry of elements combining traditionally marine associated garments with modern and technical diving gear. For women, neoprene suiting in orange, violet and black are juxtaposed against crushed wet-look jersey tops and dresses. Skirts in mermaid jacquard linens are adorned with pearl buttons while nylon tops in vivid colors of corals have sleeves rolled up to the shoulder.
Transparent suiting complements the prints of shrimp, mermaids and sea lilies. High waisted trousers feature an assembly of embroideries, reminiscent of treasures amassed while diving. Woven ikats feature on either dresses, tops for women or as panelling on shirts and trousers for men. Tailoring in liquid viscose, sun-bleached denims and ikat prints also straddle both collections.
For menswear, hardy rubberised outerwear appears in orange and violet while Hawaïan shirts abound with prints of sea lilies or urchins. Solarised cotton sweaters in indigo or dark greys walk along side tailored jackets with shawl collars and rough edges. Jackets and coats in summer linens feature sailor collars and shorts are made of high frequency lazer-cut nylons. Suits are cropped and boxy and classic ‘K’ shirts feature net panels color blocked in lilac and orange. Net prints appear in dégradé pigments on printed cotton.
In our Fall-Winter 2019 collection for KENZO, we introduced a new bag, ‘The Tali’. We revisit the Tali for Spring-Summer 2020, updating it within the themes of the new collection and we introduce a new smaller version, The Mini Tali. Skins of viper snake resemble fish scales. Dégradés recall the approaching light seen from the bottom of the ocean floor.
Net straps and bumbags mirror the belt pouches used by the Ama to retrieve their rewards. Sunglasses are high performance and feature solarised lenses to protect. For women, traditional Japanese Okobo sandals in the sea-lily print walk alongside scuba sock sandals and a new unisex sneaker style, the scuba inspired K-Wave for men and women.
Carol Lim & Humberto Leon
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Tags: KENZO, KENZO SS 2020, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2020, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2020
Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog
Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog
It’s the morning after Woodstock ’69. The sun crosses the Catskill Mountains as the final embers of Jimi Hen- drix’s torched Fender Strat float into the wind, yet the communal spirit created across those three defining days still burns.
This Spring Summer 2020 season represents a folkloric correspondence with Woodstock’s collective ideal, embracing a mindset of peace through togetherness, love and a deep connection to the heart of nature. We gather amongst a palette of earthy tones and pastel skies to pay homage to the original guitar heroes while igniting a new vanguard.
At once louche and decadent, the Summer of Love liberation is echoed by relaxed tailoring that becomes contemporary stage outfits, where construction is modernized slim to a kick flare ankle. Crochet techniques speak to artisanal craft, while embellished peace lilies flower across silk bombers.
From beatnik to bohemian, this sonic trip expands through rich suedes, velvets and desert hues. Custom-made jacquard roses trail across women’s longline coats, and silk knits are created using a unique double-weave to form an exquisite tie-dye effect.
As sunset prints inform a sense of optimism and transpire alongside transcendent psychedelic florals and starry skies, large duffel bags are introduced as well as a range of leather shoulder options that resemble guitar bodies and snare drums alluding to a nomadic lifestyle while feeding the mantra: always march to your own beat.
Of particular prominence is a patchwork motif evoking Navajo blankets and symbolic of the global influences that energize the house codes. Love bead necklaces conjure Jim Morrison and romantic sheer caftans Janis Joplin, alongside original hand-airbrushed imagery authorized in cooperation with the estate of Jimi Hendrix.
50 years on, Woodstock remains an abiding symbol of counterculture freedom, humility and camaraderie values mirrored by the Amiri family, whose hard work and kinship form the backbone of the brand.
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Tags: AMIRI, AMIRI SS 2020, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2020, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2020
Tue, June 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
