Thu, September 26 2019 » Fashion Blog
ICEBERG SPRING SUMMER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
The fairy tale continues in Creative Director James Long’s celebration of women, taking inspiration from the poem Warning by Jenny Joseph. SS20 brings with it a feeling of lightness matched with a female confidence that comes from being comfortable in your own skin.
An “i” tulle print maxi dresses take our Sylph muse from sea to land, glistening like water over opalescent fish scale sequin trousers. White armed rash-guard dresses are elongate with soft pleated fin fronts or kept equally short, sporty and leggy in body con tulle again over sequin. Neon yellow luminescent accents cover white sports tailoring, the silhouette again softened by net.
Purple sequins cover single-breasted jacket and matching swim knickers or are worn with a tonal satin hoodie. A sporty synchronised swimmer dress wins the Gold.
The collection shows in the amazing location of Bagni Misteriosi, a restored pool of the Thirties in the heart of Milan. The models walk under the sound created by Siobhan Bell dj set and the live performance of British-Nigerian artists, the Queen of afro-beat, Tiwa Savage, presenting her new single “4999”.
ICEBERG grunge mermaid’s adventurous spirit plays out in a new “i” hounds’ tooth where 2 pieces (a single breasted with narrow trousers classic suit or a Bermuda shorts an T surfer’s suit), a jacquard Lil Kim knitted swimsuit and tulles are a crash of red, pink and yellow worn with matching accessories. A classic ICEBERG cartoon sweater is nonchalantly layered.
Now almost fully submerged in the City, looks take on a tougher edge with shell pink fins on black and a black sequin swimsuit worn under a tulle bomber. Her hair and make-up takes clues from architecture with graphics referenced from the design work of Zaha Hadid.
When I am an old woman I shall wear purple
With a red hat which doesn’t go and doesn’t suit me.
And I shall spend my pension on brandy and summer gloves
And satin sandals, and say we’ve no money for butter.
Warning by Jenny Joseph
Wed, September 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
MISSONI SPRING SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
Summer is a feeling, a way of being and living, just as much as it is a season. So much so, in fact, that writer Albert Camus found there was, within himself, an invincible summer even in the midst of winter. But this is actually Summer, which naturally calls for an easy, breezy spirit; for a freedom of views and a fluidity of mind, reconnecting with nature, living in the outdoors.
A summery Missoni collection that is a new foray into a mindset that is freewheeling, effervescent and joyous by definition. Put together, which is a Missoni praxis just as much as it is a view onto things, informs a way of dressing that knows no boundaries of pattern, shape, color. The mix of everything is dematerialized by the weightless textures and light colors.
Protagonists of this summer that oozes the carelessness of a long day spent walking by the water, soaking up with sun rays and breeze, holding a basket in the hands and generally luxuriating in some dolce far niente is a couple. The feeling of mutual connection between the two is evident, from the way they behave to the way they appear.
Her dresses bare the shoulders, flow, swarm in printed layers; his tailored jackets are ombrè, his shirts knitted, his spirit is informal. They exchange prints, patterns and textures, making borders thin, or completely useless.
She steals a suit, maybe just the waistcoat or a pair of slippers; he indulges in a caftan, in the glittering of lurex. Summer turns into an effortless way to represent oneself.
Wed, September 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
Wed, September 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
MSGM SPRING SUMMER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
10 Years – pure love, pure fashion, pure emotion, pure MSGM.
“This is a celebration of MSGM. It is about our love of fashion, and the energy and emotion at the heart of the brand. Each look is pure MSGM, with iconic signatures that have been with us from the beginning. This is not a retrospective: we have looked inside to push forwards.” Massimo Giorgetti, creative director of MSGM.
A love letter to the first ten years of MSGM. Celebrating the codes of the house: colour, print, tweed, tie-dye, pleasure, energy, fun. Every reference comes from the DNA of MSGM, and, as always, every piece is designed and made in Italy.
Vivid, exaggerated check tweed coats and blazers are playful and neat, contrasted with the romance of ruffled poplin shirts. Fluid silk organza dresses are worn over T-shirts printed with the anniversary show invitation. Voluminous dresses have floral prints blurred and clashed, while the oversized roses on a poplin cape are like a fantasy garden bursting with life.
Colour block taffeta twists the romance with fresh energy, its oversized ruffles and bows bringing true MSGM spirit. Knit sweaters and skirts in multicolour damier are like the squares of a light-up dancefloor. Tie-dye, a classic MSGM signature, is elevated as two broad stripes down cotton poplin dresses.
Lace has been part of the MSGM language since the very first collection. Here, vivid colour lace is cut to the shapes of tailoring: shirt, blazer, pants. Fringing is another core part of MSGM’s foundations, as alive today as ever. Fringed tweed dresses and little jackets come in sunset shades of orange and pink, trimmed with crochet collars and oversized belts.
MSGM has always had deep connections with art. To celebrate 10 years, Massimo Giorgetti has used beach life paintings by one of his favourite artists, Todd Bienvenu, the prints appearing on shirts and bags. The scenes echo the spirit of the beach at the heart of MSGM, from Giorgetti’shometown of Rimini.
Little heels are a burst of raffia or with tie-dye bows; penny loafers are covered in MSGM graffiti. Pastel bright neat handbags are clasped by the letter M.
This ten-year anniversary for MSGM will be the first fashion show ever staged in the gardens of the Triennale, among the ‘Bagni Misteriosi’ sculptures designed by Giorgio de Chirico.
Wed, September 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
MM6 MAISON MARGIELA SPRING SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
The possibility that multiple identities can exist within a single garment is a concept inherent to the world of MM6. Duality, in particular, provokes us to question origin versus evolution – the idea that our collective consciousness ascribes certain meanings (and even rules) to materials, shapes, and the way we wear them – all of which can be twisted in an instant.
To that effect, the polemic characters of John Lennon and Yoko Ono are the starting point for the MM6 collection for Spring Summer 2020, their 1969 wedding and subsequent ‘bed-in’ for peace a source of global attention – for better or for worse.
Parading in an infinite looping action, a cast of MM6 models populate the Fabbrica Orobia – a former railway station in the south of Milan, stripped to a concrete shell. Marching to the beat of their own drum, they carry individual speakers playing a soundscape of church bells, chirping birds, honking cars, spoken word recitals, rock, and folk music engineered to provoke harmony and dissonance as they pass each other by.
Questioning what is casual and what is ‘dressed-up’, the MM6 wardrobe revels in the in-between space of our expectations, appropriating both British and Japanese traditions (care of the season’s source material). Everything from the tuxedo jacket to the tracksuit pant is re-imagined, removed from its original context to become something else. T-shirts and tutus collide in broken white shades of tulle and jersey, becoming draped and tiered separates, veiled blouses, and cleft-open dresses (worn undone or back-to-front).
Cut in black leather, white satin and tattered blue denim, shawl collar blazers are split up the sides to fall straight or tie across the body, and the ‘blouse blanche’ work coat returns bearing a shadowy bouquet of tulips. Adorning pieces from a circle-cut doily dress to the iconic nude bodysuit, the MM6 logo and numbers device join slogans ‘They Are Two Of A Kind’ and ‘BETTERHALFISM’, evoking the collection’s performative spirit of commitment, celebration, and amical togetherness.
Notions of the ready-made continue to inform the MM6 accessories collection, exemplified by the introduction of the tin can cylinder-heeled boot and sandal, offering a satirical wink to the ‘chivaree’ traditions of a couple’s wedding night.
They join new moulded sneaker shapes and square toe boots that bear MM6’s signature cylinder ‘6’ stamp heel, whilst alice bands, nano-sized origami bags and ruffled pool slides play on pearl and corsage details seen elsewhere. ‘Found object’ jewellery includes engraved ID tags, safety pin charms and house key pendants – transforming clichéd symbols of domestic life.
Wed, September 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
SPORTMAX SPRING SUMMER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
MOOD
The SPORTMAX SS20 sets sails on a journey with a sense of freedom and levity inspired by the artist Daniel Wurtzel known for his large- scale kinetic sculptures and installations. Artworks which communicate a sensation that frees the body and soul. The collection powerfully mixes neo-romantic femininity and Sportmax’s signature interpretation of tailoring. The flying fabrics, the triangular shape of the sail, ropes and stitching define new silhouettes. The attitude of this aesthetic code turns around the idea of lightness, movement and femininity.
ATTITUDE
The collection plays with the contrasts between precise tailoring and the delicate fluidity of blouses and printed dresses in soft colors that appear to be faded by the sun. Fluid dresses in distinct silhouettes are characterized by important volumes and transparencies. Draping has been interpreted to emphasize an ideal femininity. Kaftans and shirt dresses are paired with knit ponchos or tops. The tailored suit is offered in feminine colors and soft fabrics, while pants and skirts are styled with puffy flower-print shirts or blouses with chains and leather band details. Floral prints in a hushed color palette are emphasized with a glossy effect.
MATERIALS
Summer cotton stripes, rubberized jersey and georgette, silk and leather. Mixing and layering of contrasting materials, the leather meets the fluid dress and the light shirts on necks and cuffs. Skirts and vests are constructed from a one-of-a-kind fabric made from woven leather that create a sophisticated graphic plaid, finished with a combination of both fringed edges and piped leather trim.
ACCESSORIES
The looks are accessorized with ankle-wrap sandals with rounded leather cords and high-performance futuristic sneakers, plus sporty leather caps, bucket bags and eyewear characterized by unexpected shapes and material combinations.
COLORS
A palette of faded, delicate colors: from white to light shades of greyish sky blue, dusty pink and sea foam green to the deeper cornflower blue and rich indigo.
Wed, September 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SPRING SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
Family–the glue that binds us together– and the house traditions of craft and artisanship form the twin foundations of a Salvatore Ferragamo collection that is light, bright and designed for joyful living in the 2020’s.
Paul Andrew explains: “It started with a photo on my mother’s mantelpiece of my brother and I on summer holiday in Italy when we were kids in the 1980s. We are wearing clashing Bermuda prints and smiles. I wanted to bring that feeling of fun and sun-drenched innocence into a modern context with a collection that is physically very light and knowingly bourgeois but which also has tangible depth, substance and care in its construction.”
The house icon Vara shoe, designed by Fiamma Ferragamo, daughter of house-founder Salvatore, in 1979 is lovingly reinvented as the Viva: mono-colour in a sophisticated spectrum of tones, the famous grosgrain bow is enlarged and expressed in leather – as is the original shoe’s hardware accessory – on a pump that comes either cinched in the back or with a solidly crafted upper.
New prints featuring Ammannati’s 16th Century Fountain of Neptune in Florence – recently restored thanks to funding from the Ferragamo family – play against oversized tulip prints on backless short dungarees, scarf-caps, long easy silk devore dresses, men’s shirting and swimwear.
Bubble skirts, cinched-ankle trousers, racerback tailored waistcoats and wide-legged dungarees are all affectionate Italian-flavoured 80s revivals, often expressed in leather and presented in a colour story designed to echo the tradition of Murano glassmaking. 3D printed jewellery in clear resin is shot through with sinuous twist of colour. Trenches and dungarees are cut open at the back to let the skin breathe: leather fronted trousers and shirts are backed in cotton to conjure a striking contrast.
Artisanal achievements include a Raschel knit dress and top striped in fringed ribbons of crepe de chine, and a hand crocheted tank-dress made in the hills above Florence. A light fringe-edged skirt of woven silk features a sash panel. Men’s tailoring is breezily split-seamed.
The new Ferragamo triple pocket expandable handbag comes in leather-lined linen canvas, hand woven leather mesh, ostrich and waxed calfskin and is presented in a new shoulder slung size.
Paul Andrew says: “Precious but never heavy, these are clothes, shoes and bags to cherish far beyond a single season for many summers to come. They are built for long languid days of sun, salt, sand and ocean. I hope that for those who own them, in the years to come they will be a little like that photo on my mother’s mantelpiece: a well-worn reminder of happy times.”
Wed, September 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
Wed, September 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
FENDI SPRING SUMMER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
SOLAR FLAIR
Drenched in the warmth of an Italian sunrise, the FENDI Women’s Spring/Summer 2020 Collection designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi charts a path of playful opulence through a summer’s day. Impossible blooms and ethereal textures intertwine to trick the eye – shifting in weightless moments of FENDI craftsmanship, invoking the hidden decadence of the everyday.
Roman sensibilities luxuriate in the rub of utility with the frivolous and the ultra-feminine. A sunny palette surges into acid brights from wisps of palest pink, honey and pecan. Emerging from a waking dream, the FENDI woman delights in undone expressions of new borghese energy.
Reveling in the refraction of blown-up gingham and block-cut blanket flowers, flurries of graphic geometry invite a sensual play of transparency, perforation, weaving and knits. Pockets and hemlines float on honeycomb tulle creating artful suspensions, translating precious fur techniques into square twinset tailoring and ample jacket shapes bifurcated with diaphanous panels.
Paperbag shorts and trousers in waxed or organic washed cottons meet double-buttoned shirt coats and jackets in cotton toweling, glazed florals or rich suede. Summer fur is bonded to floral lycra or knitted as a plush check, whilst draped sheer sequins and filmy knits echo the sculptural dimensions of cloudy quilting and cloqué. A kaleidoscope of texture and tone remixes FENDI tradition with a streak of summer rebellion.
The FENDI Spring/Summer 2020 Accessories reprise the Collection’s natural materials, as the Peekaboo is woven in compact raffia, latticework leather and open weave FF logo toile. The Baguette is encrusted with blanket flower marquetry and a new short-handle tote is finished in burnished calfskin and stripe suede. Slinky knee socks match stack-heeled slingback loafers and peep-toe floral sandals.
Tue, September 24 2019 » Fashion Blog
