Wed, September 24 2014 » Fashion Blog
STELLA JEAN SPRING SUMMER 2015 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
Stella Jean presents this Spring Summer 2015 collection with a strong anthropological story characterized by a succession of cultural trompe-l’oeil. The fabrics and their combinations paint a new narrative landscape, where ethical fashion has a central role.
This explorative creation is born through the growing collaboration with the Ethical Fashion Initiative of the International Trade Centre (ITC), a United Nations agency. The Initiative enabled the use of hand-woven textiles made by women in Burkina Faso and Mali and jewelry made by Haitian artisans.
The collection is a declaration of intent and confirms Stella Jean’s commitment to testifying, sharing and tracing back unimaginable and secular traditions through narrative images. The tones, sometimes epic, at others descriptive or ironic, reveal more than what history books can tell.
Here, the textiles act as reporters conveying a collective memory. As a testimony to this engagement, the collection introduces the elegant and retro Doctor Bag – borrowed from an Italian doctor – revisited with the colours of bogolan, the traditional mud-cloth from Mali, and the striped hand-woven fabric from Burkina Faso.
Yet this Stella Jean’s Spring Summer 2015 collection is characterized by something new: the emotional return of the designer to her home: Haiti. A country described by André Malraux as “the most amazing experience of the magic art of the 20th century”, Haiti was unveiled like never before through ‘Art Naïf’, a movement marked by active observation built around a simple soul.
This artistic perspective is an expression of life, nature and spirit, animated by the market women and their daily multi-coloured vanity, full of dignity. The market, acting as social barometers, is where we can meet these proud vendors adorned with scarves enhancing femininity.
Adding to the hustle and bustle of the market, “tap-tap” buses also have a strong presence in recreate this unique atmosphere. The “tap-tap”, the traditional means of public transport, are also described as “pop art on wheels”. Adorned with subjects belonging to religious, popular and historical tradition; ironic phrases, proverbs or messages; the tap-tap are painted by artists who attend art schools specialized in tap-tap painting.
Donkeys, another important means of transportation and labor, and sugar cane, are also recurring Haitian elements that reappear on prints and hand-painted fabrics, completing the visual landscape of this collection.
Thus, this collection is an authentic cultural symposium: a conversation of visions and expressions of distant and contrasting worlds only in appearance, united under an impeccable aesthetic linking Burkina Faso, Haiti, Mali and Italy. A reversal of Babel.
Wed, September 24 2014 » Fashion Blog
ANGELOS BRATIS SPRING SUMMER 2015 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
“My new collection – affirms Angelos Bratis – is inspired by the pared down architectural modernism and the last erotic paintings of renowned artist Yannis Moralis, one of the important figures in painting and the cultural debate in Greece between the late 50’s and 70’s.”
The contemporary poetry of Angelos Bratis does in fact share the pure and abstract mathematical approach of Moralis’ work applied to dynamic compositions of simple and rough geometric shapes, researching the same necessary tension of balance and conceptual harmony; ultimately embracing the same powerful and minimal graphic vision.
Ultra-versatile dresses and kaftans created for every female type. Crêpe de Chine, semi-stretch cady and essential foulards in silk twill constitute the intentionally limited, mathematical vocabulary which the Hellenic designer explores to render yet more evident the characteristic, unmistakable codes of his luminous aesthetic: basic and yet extremely sophisticated.
The password is the mastery of cut, the significant lightness, the independent and sinuous movement of material around the body which suddenly appears freed from all restraint or restriction whilst continuing to maintain an absolute control. A tinge of sensuality interlaced with almost stately linear substraction; rarified and distant, ultra-modern and timeless.
“The bias cut – adds Angelos Bratis – the play of the diagonal which is the unceasing foundation and the real passionate cypher for my design journey, finds fresh possibilities which are explored and declined in this collection.”
Triangles, rectangles and semi-circles are starting points for diverse and elusive patterns. A composition which is the synthesis of a study of triangular morphologies, kaftans made from rhomboidal puzzles to arrive at ultra-complex drapings which liberate rigid and plastic constructions in a final radiant and vibratile liquid dimension.
A suspended light and tonal colour palette, again close to the pictorial vision and special tones of Moralis: beige, gold, an electric pink, the energy of sunshine yellow and the unfathomable depths of white. Spurred on by touches of black and by various nuances of blue, a blue ranging from ultramarine to the enveloping mystery of the night sky.
In the same spirit as the dresses are the jewels by Maria Mastori, sculptural pieces in wood, gold-leaf and brass have organic impact. Morphologies with ancestral and linear echoes, as if made smooth by seawater.
Wed, September 24 2014 » Fashion Blog
ROBERTO CAVALLI SPRING SUMMER 2015 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
Roberto Cavalli © Copyright 2014
The Light of Summer
The hectic pace of the city evaporates into a salty ocean breeze as boats anchored at the dock inspire dreams of travel to distant places. The warmth of the sun and the power of color become intoxicating as the summer turns into an elegant adventure where comfort and lightness are synonymous of style.
The captivating Roberto Cavalli women flow onto the deck, encountering summertime and the desire for a carefree escape: for S/S 2015 the Florentine designer creates a collection in which shades of fire orange, cerulean blue, racing green and saffron yellow become the mirror of the summer.
Sensuality as a light breeze that moves across the silhouette of psychedelic floral prints on silk georgette; ribbons flutter lightly on the long dresses.
Bands of striped multicolored jacquard and tulle give volume and weight to the pleated dresses, while the transparencies of white and pastel embroidered tulle express the carefree spirit of the season.
Leather makes an entrance in high-gloss crocodile, reappears in polished python, and takes a turn as laminated quicksilver – techniques also applied to shoes and handbags.
Denim, a fabric that lies at the heart of the maison, is treated with a vintage effect and featured in combinations that are both surprising and effortless. Distressed and patched denim pieces are paired with pieces in guipure lace and yet other pieces of sheer white aristocratic beauty. Lace cut-outs lined with silver sequins give the black denim pantsuit their secret lustre.
Evening wear in fluid silhouettes enriched with lavish lace transparencies, the flutter of feathers, and the unexpected mix of animal print sequin beading with broderie anglaise. The new summer ocelot print is animated by slashes of cobalt blue lace, or simply seductive in its soft fluid shapes.
Tue, September 23 2014 » Fashion Blog
PORTS 1961 SPRING SUMMER 2015 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
This season, Ports 1961’s woman has two souls inspired by the spirit of the Greek goddess Artemis: one strong and warrior-like; one sensual and feminine. A combination that expresses the svelte power and stealth of the eternal huntress.
A sensual colour palette of crisp white combined with the creamiest ivory, recalling the nacre of a deep sea pearl. Nude tones balance pale rose pinks and whisper-soft taupe – all anchored by the precision of the purest black.
Artemis inspired A-line shapes and long, languid forms with geometric elements, balanced in turn by fluid, flyaway silks, cottons and knits, express a mood of total control and self-determination.
The bold and assertive spirit of the iconic No.10 blouse is reinvented in luxurious athletic fabrics and details, such as a sporty silk mesh and pique ‘plastron’.
Sexy, short kilt and wrap skirts have evolved from FW14. Wide trousers are rethought with a detachable peplum on the waistline, creating an elongated ‘lift’ effect. Cropped pants add variety with the latter in a sheer silk-cotton voile.
Twirled godets and gently billowing gussets stand out on ultra-light dresses in silk and cotton silk twill. Meanwhile, multi plissé dresses feature enriched panels and straps inspired by the huntress’s armour.
Fiona Cibani channels the warrior goddess and invites women to follow Artemis and her fleet-footed elegance with sculpted designs, divine details and a poise and attitude that demonstrates the apex of female empowerment.
Mon, September 22 2014 » Fashion Blog
VERSACE SPRING SUMMER 2015 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
The new essentials of Versace: stripped back and bold, sexy and fresh. Lines are clean, colours are strong, details are playful.
Black tailoring is trimmed with oversized white stitching, while black long skirts are cut away at the side.
Colour-block dresses are cut across the body by an exploded Greek key, while wide bands of colour run diagonal across dresses, skirts and tops.
Knitwear is sporty, with symmetrical patterns on a sweater like racing jerseys, or cropped knit racer vests worn under tailoring.
Laser-cut tops and dresses bring lightness; leather has a punched-out pattern, while metal rings puncture dresses and leather jackets.
A new Versace print clashes images of metal rings with the Medusa and abstracted optics. Swarovski crystal mesh dresses are youthful and strong, with straps held by utilitarian buckles.
The Signature and Palazzo bags have been laser-cut, while evening clutches come in Swarovski crystal mesh.
Patent laser-cut boots, sandals and mules are all on a high transparent Perspex heel with the Medusa head cast inside.
The new collection of Versace pens is decorated with the icons of the house, while limited edition Versace watches are in vivid colour croc straps.
“This is about a fresh new Versace, one that is contemporary, clean and strong. It is the way women wear Versace now, and in the future.” DV
Mon, September 22 2014 » Fashion Blog
Mon, September 22 2014 » Fashion Blog
ERMANNO SCERVINO SPRING SUMMER 2015 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
Ermanno Scervino © Copyright 2014
A GLAMOUROUS LIFE AND STYLE
Glamourous looks for both day- and eveningwear. From the parka, must have of the season, proposed in different lengths and materials to the combinations of cropped tops with high-waisted shorts and skirts. Strapless gowns caressing the body for a sinuous silhouette.
MATERIALS AND PROCESSES
Linen canvas panama structure, mélange raffia, chenille macramé, engraved, coupled and printed on chiffon and crepe, mat-effect macramé, laser-printed neoprene, denim, coupled tulle and lace, patchwork knitwear, faded points of light on lace and tulle.
PATTERNS
Python print, floral prints, laser-cut embroidery effect.
VOLUMES
Over-jacket, sinuous silhouette, soft lines, high waist.
COLOURS
Off-white, white, denim, black, turquoise, green.
ACCESSORIES
Mini-cubes in raffia and stones, python or satin sandals, patterns of overlapping jewels.
Sun, September 21 2014 » Fashion Blog
MISSONI SUMMER 2015 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
SUMMER 2015
CATCH THE WIND!
Airy, vaporous, featherweight forms move, open, twist and lift up, billowing like sails falling back fluidly over the body. Volumes shaped and reshaped at every step, define the energy of the Missoni Summer 2015 Woman and her “joie de vivre”.
- Light weight of the classic trench coat
- Oversized men’s shirts.
- Wide pant-skirts.
- Long dresses and high-waisted blouses.
- Foulards and scarves coiled up and knotted to adorn hair.
Lightweight knits, feature openwork, intarsia and embroidery, doubled with nylon tulle. Broad stripes, softly blended, interact with floating decoupé petals. All over prints on hammered silk, shantung and chiffon. Compositions of flowers in embroidered appliqués and intarsia knits. Polychrome palettes and graphic motifs evoke Pop Art silkscreens or Matisse-like collages.
Ecrù and shades of pink, from yellow to the different tones of green all the way to turquoise, ending with mauve and purple with silver and ruby. The bold primary colours of summery landscapes blend together in pastel hues and fluorescent accents to the multicolour and monochromatic palette of the collection. Mesh calfskin lace-up shoes with coloured rubber sole and zipper, or thong sandals in mesh and shiny patent leather.
Sun, September 21 2014 » Fashion Blog
JUST CAVALLI SPRING SUMMER 2015 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
“FREEDOM AND LOVE”
Spring / Summer 2015 Collection
The Just Cavalli woman dances to the rhythm of life, in a place where Roberto Cavalli invites young people to share his own fashion story.
Good vibrations and touches of romance charge the scene with energy, giving inspiring messages of love and peace on the clothes, using micro-patterns that reproduce the symbols of a timeless counterculture. We thus become enraptured by the desire to get on a plane and be transported to the island of happiness.
The elegance of dresses and jackets with an urban cut meets the lightness of shirts and mini-skirts with bold, feminine lines, transforming a woman’s silhouette into the star of an open-air concert, in which each frequency enhances the details.
Tiny daisies, hearts, lilies and small butterflies dominate the patterns on the clothes, in which the chromatism of vivid polka dots becomes brilliant movement, creating spots of light that allow space for bodies and materials combined with assonance.
The slim, linear shapes of the trousers dress the body in a feminine way, while in our imaginations, the musical counterbeats are provided by the transparency of the chiffon dresses and pleated skirts.
The high notes in this modern, dynamic score therefore become the studs on the biker jackets, reworked like bright pearls to keep in line with the harmonious soul of the collection.
The miniature textures of animal prints provide the lively beat with which the garments conquer the big stage where the brilliant symphony of colours comes to life: ivory, sky blue and pink alternate with white and black, accompanied by red, light blue, yellow, purple and emerald green.
Chiffon and jacquard cottons for the peaked collars and ruffle skirts, prints adorn jackets and knitwear, leather creates the trousers and inlays, bringing onto the stage a sensual melody combining stories of style and images of life from every corner of the world.
Inspirations and visions succeed in renewing volumes and graphic elements, engraving the dream of a collection that aims to speak about freedom and universal love.
Sat, September 20 2014 » Fashion Blog
