Sun, December 8 2013 » Fashion Blog
ERMANNO SCERVINO SPRING SUMMER 2014 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
Ermanno Scervino © Copyright 2013
ERMANNO SCERVINO: BRILLIANCE EVERYWHERE
PLAY OF LIGHT AND STONES FOR THE NEW CONTEMPORARY GLAMOUR
Ermanno Scervino: “I have created a new daywear, poised between casual and tailored.
I love contrasts of materials and colours: sporty fabrics such as canvas with couture tailoring, bonded with satin, muslin and lace and glittering with Swarovski crystals.”
The womenʼs show of the Spring Summer 2014, runs on a teak catwalk, inspired by the most glamourous yacht of ʻ60s, the Christina. The star of the show – khaki canvas – becomes couture, bonded with stretch silk satin in contrast colours. Linen and denim too become double-face, bonded with silk duchesse and satin.
Embroidered transparent organza with spotted effect for coats and shorts. Kilts restyled with origami folds, Geometrical transparencies even in the suede, again khaki colour.
All enhanced by Swarovski crystals that embellish the lapels of jackets and reefers, shoulders and necklines.
For the evening, long gowns inspired by caftans in cotton and silk, with soft silhouettes, sometimes clinched at the waist with metal belts. Sculptural mini-dresses with draping and layerings of organza, in various nuances of green, or in irregular chiffon plissé, illuminated by crystals.Three-quarter length dresses with multi-coloured flower embroideries.
The new mini jumpsuits are enveloped by maxi-cardigans in cashmere or technical fibres. PVC is embroidered in houndstooth pattern or in macramé effect in leather. Hints of mink for the yellow canvas parka and the bedjacket.
THE ACCESSORIES
Hand-worked Florentine straw bag and new peep-toes, even in nuanced leather, satin and gold-coated canvas. A hail of Swarovski crystals, even fumé, on the leather cage sandals.
THE COLOURS
Khaki and brilliant white, all the shades of green, yellow, black, sky blue and the naturals.
Fri, December 6 2013 » Fashion Blog
MILA SCHÖN SPRING SUMMER 2014 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
WILD INNOCENCE
Known as the Italian ‘Coco Chanel,’ Mila Schön has dressed the fashion worlds most prestige and elite – creating garments that are inspired by the works of great artists and of era’s gone by.
The ‘Spring/Summer ‘14’ collection captures the essence of 1970’s cult cinema, refining the look of the aristocracy at that time. In famous Milanese film scenes, you see a parade of upper-class women, fragile, refined and sensual, accompanied by a seductive and intense soundtrack.
In the 55th anniversary of the birth of the ‘Maison Milanese’ each and every look evokes the initial signature style of the Mila Schön aesthetic using classic and rich double-faced fabrics – a technique invented by the house under the mantra that dresses should be beautiful on both ‘the inside and out.’
A-line dresses and short trench pea coats are enhanced with crinoline hems to create static silhouettes that compliment a woman’s shape and portray an aesthetic of strength. Embroidered leather and suede – inlaid with platinum wire mesh, contrasts the femininity and beauty of light chiffon in mandarin, rose petal and ivory neon colours.
The collection revives a woman’s wardrobe, bringing exciting shapes and pieces such as shorts and silk trousers with an athletic silhouette and reintroducing a new style to the typical Mila Schön A-line shape skirt.
The VHS gem clutch is embroidered with precious Murano beads that have been inspired by the surreal cinema of the seventies. This also shows a tribute to the heritage and a symbol of the brand, within the collection.
The luxurious collection was created for an elegant woman who is strong-minded and effortlessly chic. It is for a woman who simply wears the clothes – and refuses to let the clothes wear her.
Thu, November 28 2013 » Fashion Blog
Thu, November 21 2013 » Fashion Blog
N°21 SPRING SUMMER 2014 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
Spring-Summer 2014
Exotic languor creates the mood for journeys which while possibly just imaginary leave indelible traces.
As a classic designer with a quiet iconoclastic verve, Alessandro Dell’Acqua needs only to read subtle shifts, sudden and decisive accords to scatter the cards and capture a high-class seditious flair.
This season he works around the idea of vacation. It’s a keen all-encompassing urge, liberating sensation of freedom, ideal state of the soul where an acute and compelling desire for some faroff dimension takes shape and ultimately identifies a cool sleek style.
The starting point is a bourgeois wardrobe, an unwavering concentrate of pure precision and effective elegance with crisp, constant, erotic tension between masculine and feminine setting the tone.
The clothes are archetypal: assertive coats and jackets, short-sleeve bowling shirts, clean cropped blouses tops & knits, minis and knee-skimming pencil skirts, smart little dresses and perfectly creased pants.
All is in place, as is nothing at all, for precious embroideries mimic smudges on tennis shirts, notch patterns embellish solid examples of tailoring with hibiscus flower outlines, skirts dematerialize and morph into lingerie concepts or in alternative present lavish stitching.
Outfits with a soft sophisticated pajama feel reflect the carefree ease of home living, mannish boxer shorts add a fresh touch to nearly every ensemble.
Gorgeous prints and jacquard designs, wonderful expressions of stylized exoticism imbue the new wardrobe ever in motion with a timeless allure even as the flashes of intuition typical of a vacation spirit upset the established order of things from one moment to the next.
Fabrics and such (duchesse satin, heavy cotton, doubleface leather, laser-cut lace, Oxford cloth, poplin) feature full rich textures while colors (dark blue, black, jungle green, python brown, white, blush/powder/nude tones) are moist and mellow.
Lastly, ornamental elements mark the season’s accessories – slipper style flats, chunky high-heel sandals, tulle stockings – with a discreet opulence.
This faroff dimension becomes the magnificent backdrop for a mode of dress decorously free of rules.
Wed, November 20 2013 » Fashion Blog
JO NO FUI SPRING SUMMER 2014 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
To distil essentiality in order to sublimate it with lunar hypnotism and opulence.
Alessia Giacobino’s intention is decisive; her architect background is to be found in the details that transform simple, formal dresses into precious and exclusive objects of desire. A luxury to exhibit.
The silhouette, sculptural and definitive, brings back the space age of the 60’s. Couture proportions and cuts are mixed with the strong art déco references of french artist erté and with unexpected hip hop contaminations.
Triple silk organza a-line tops and shifts are underlined by orbital circles and contrasting cuts, by pvc and lizard inlays and appliqué.
Pants are slim to enhance the shape of chic jackets and coats that parade sophisticated exotic prints; an absolute illusion vertigo.
The portholes opened in dresses and tunics zippers transform, adorn, inter- rupt and create the unexpected to provoke a visual accident that pushes the parameters of elegance forward.
Leather invents shirts, cargo pants and boxer shorts inspired by ny bad girls.
The eternal innovative spirit of the brand is expressed through the construc- tion, the proportions and cuts establishing the embellishment. But also in the inspiration sources that quote iconic elements of hip hop gear – like the show- ing elastic band of the boxer shorts, the dropped armholes of the vests and the camo print – to be worn with architecturally-sculped pieces.
The fabrics: triple silk organza, crépon, cotton and silk faille, lurex cloth, lizard, leather.
The colors: inspired by planets, pluto green, mars red, moonlight white, meteo- rite brown.
The embellishment: cabochon, lurex, lizard applique, satellite rhinestones.
A strong and focused collection, a synthesis of essentiality and femininity; a dual game to highlight the sartorial lines of pieces enriched with an echo of geometry, orientalism or street-wear elements.
A celestial dualism that assumes the tones of contemporary luxury.
Mon, November 18 2013 » Fashion Blog
Wed, November 13 2013 » Fashion Blog
Sun, November 10 2013 » Fashion Blog
MSGM SPRING SUMMER 2014 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
Hollywood 1934 “Don the Beachcomber” opens up. Tiki mania becomes all the rage. Tiki: bizarre mix of primitivism and beach culture.
Hawaii vs Los Angeles, Honolulu vs Miami, Lifestyle vs Jet Set. Deco and Liberty contaminations. Hibiscus prints and paisley create a kaleidoscopic explosion of patterns.
The irreverent brand’s mission: to break the rules… to take over the cultural evolution of tiki style. Evolution and revolution.
“Allez Allez Allez…” Camille sings. “Allons MSGM Girls!” with all the pride of a feminist rebellion. “Prend la force dans la taille et dans les tallons”.
Furniture fabrics, woven mats with a clear futuristic flavour: shiny striped raffia and intertwined multicolour checked techno raffia. Lightweight neoprene with a punched flower design.
Three dimensional embroidery brings coloured plastic jungles to life Tiki/jungle prints on crêpe de chine and chiffon set an exotic mood. Hibiscus filigree prints, Tiki chandelier print. Multicolour strands for both the print and the embroidery
Split silhouettes on faille printed pareo skirts. Metropolitan contamination: crop tops and chevronne raffia mini skirts. Deal breaker: white men’s shirts slip into the looks Bows, folds and ruffles in parachute poplin are the new shapers.
Chocolate brown is the colour of the season. Deep brown and pink. Turquoise and orange. Sandy beige and mint green. And then there’s white.
Thu, November 7 2013 » Fashion Blog
MOSCHINO SPRING SUMMER 2014 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
CELEBRATING MOSCHINO’S 30TH ANNIVERSARY
To celebrate the fashion house’s 30th anniversary, Creative Director Rossella Jardini wished to pay tribute to the memory of founder Franco Moschino by re-interpreting all the iconic themes that have inspired his aesthetic vision. She presents an exclusive mise en scène that plays on the double spirit of the contemporary woman, the good and evil.
Opening the show are the designer’s 4 favorite models: Pat Cleveland (strapless dress with Italian flag and cow, fall winter 85/86), Violeta Sanchez (coat with teddy bears, fall/winter 88/89), Amalia (Italian flag dress, fall/winter 88/89) and Giselle Zelauy (garbage dress, spring/summer 94) , who wear symbolic garments from the Maison’s archives. Then they leave the scene to the spring/summer 2014 collection with a series of female characters that describe the same woman in her “good” & “bad” versions.
The nun, the maid, the playmate, the biker and many other varied personalities reveal a creative duality that alternates street-glam style with a bon chic, bon genre spirit, through a collection that is elegantly easy, accessible and, at the same time, highly refined, and speaks to all women.
Between the memory of Franco Moschino and the look towards the present and future of the Maison, Rossella Jardini offers must-have pieces like the leather jacket with a heart or dotted with shiny studs, the iridescent bouclé jacket with large metallic zippers and chain bracelets on the cuffs, pearl embroidery on lightweight, see-through dresses, refining the most delicate looks with patterns of colored roses printed or embroidered on fabrics in white, black and red. Hearts, pearls and chains. Raised lettering with the logo letters in shiny metal and gold, on both the clothes and the accessories.
A rhythm that brings together different shapes and distinctive details, from “cropped” silhouettes and long petalled cuts, from striped patterns and Vichy designs, from flirty culottes and sophisticated organza dresses, completely hand-embroidered and trimmed with ruffles and large flounces.
And for the grand finale, highlighted by the live voice of Gloria Gaynor singing I AM WHAT I AM, the historical models return to the scene to introduce a series of 11 more vintage looks:
Pat wearing a red dress with black polka dots, spring/summer 84
Violeta wearing an upside down strapless jacket dress, spring/summer 88
Amalia wearing the Holy Chic dress, fall/winter 93/94
Gisele wearing the Gazzetta Dello Sport dress, spring/summer 93
Alek Wek wearing the “question mark” dress, spring/summer 98
Alana wearing the “De Gvstibvs Non Est Dispvtandvm” t-shirt and a skirt with hearts, spring/summer 94
Erin O’ Connor wearing the dinner jacket and the Kaos skirt, spring/summer 94
Jodie Kidd wearing the” gorilla” dress, fall/winter 94/95
Diana D. wearing the chain jacket and the “NIENTE” t-shirt, fall/winter 88/89
Natasha wearing the shopping bag dress, fall winter 87/88
Catherine McNeil wearing bathing suits bearing the written motto LA CLASSE NON È ACQUA, spring/summer 87
Meanwhile, a tableau vivant takes shape in the background.
Like the footnote of a timeless tale that celebrates this important anniversary, weaving a precious thread between the story of yesterday and the passionate present that is MOSCHINO.
Thu, October 31 2013 » Fashion Blog
