Tue, June 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
VERSACE SPRING SUMMER 2020 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
The Versace Men’s Spring-Summer 2020 collection is a celebration of contemporary masculinity. Iconic house codes, colorful prints, and ironic nuances are combined with new tailoring silhouettes in signature Versace style. The personal journey of a young man, coming of age and finding his confidence, is subtly referenced throughout the collection. Status symbol race cars and intentionally oversized silhouettes evoke the spirit of adolescence. The Versace man is free to self-express with no limitations.
The power suit is revisited through innovative silhouettes, fabrics and playful hardware accents that boast empowering messages. Double-breasted jackets pay homage to the brand’s DNA, with half the garment in solid black contrasting against Prince of Wales fabric. Animalier, laminated textures, and lurex separates juxtapose formalwear, imposing a new energy.
Fringed leather outerwear, motorcycle vests and dark denim are introduced as wardrobe essentials and are layered over new prints. Versace iconography is embraced through a nod to 1990s culture, including inspiration from Prodigy, the British band accredited to the rave moment. Medusa Biggie eyewear is depicted in pop-art motifs and placed on silk shirts and sweatpants. Emblematic Versace fragrances and vintage advertising of the mythological character Narcissus are featured on denim pieces.
The brand’s most recognizable elements are reinterpreted in saturated color. An archive print featuring the Roman god, Bacchus is hand-painted by artist and friend of the House, Andy Dixon. Opulent vases and a race car motif from Dixon’s work have been developed into seasonal patterns and fabrications. Silk shirts, knitwear, and light metallic separates feature the collaboration between Versace and the artist.
For Spring-Summer 2020, Versace menswear takes a sharp turn for the self-assured. Stereotypes of masculine character are challenged through tailoring, fabric and print – an interpretation of confidence through Versace’s maximalist style.
“For this collection, I wanted to explore the elements that empower a man. It’s definitely the confidence, the freedom and desire to express himself without hesitation.”
Donatella Versace
Tue, June 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
Tue, June 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA XXX SPRING SUMMER 2020 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
Ermenegildo Zegna © Copyright 2019
# UseTheExisting
An immense industrial building in despair is the site for the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX show. The runway unfolds below extremely high ceilings that once hosted Area Falck: a monument to steely modernity that over the years slowly turned into a metropolitan wasteland. The dismissed area, however, will soon be re-qualified by Milanosesto into a hub for health and science, along with green and residential areas, gaining a new continuity with the city and a new meaning, reverting from waste to opportunity. As such, it will be included again in the metropolitan fabric, including people within it. It is the same philosophy Zegna is applying to textile resources, with the commitment to continue to create new fabrics from existing ones, and the same drive Zegna applies to re-thinking tailoring for the modern world. #UseTheExisting is the byword.
“It is our duty as denizens of this world to live responsibly - says Zegna’s Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori - I want to do it using the creative means I have at my disposal, which extend from the materiality of fabric-making, to the exquisite technicality of tailoring to the highly communicative aspect of show-making. Everything is connected, and everything conveys the same idea: we do not need to create the new from scratch, but we can reuse and reinvent the existing, getting progressive fabrics out of discarded ones, translating traditional techniques into innovative lifetime tailoring, turning an abandoned place into an area of creation”.
A sharp industrial sensibility comes to the fore this season, channeled by the pragmatic suits composed of blousons, shirts or polo-shirts worn with matching trousers. Sartori sticks to an agenda rooted in tailoring’s essence, morphing tradition into something suited to the pace of a hyper connected, global generation. The silhouette is neat: boxy blousons, voluminous coats, sleek three-button blazers and slim one-button jackets with 3D patch pockets are paired with lean yet soft trousers or fuller ones. Generous pockets migrate from the sportier items onto tailored ones while tailored details move to sport pieces, suggesting a mix of categories that expands the possibilities of use.
Knits are building blocks that increase the modularity of modern dressing. Firm yet extremely light fabrics – wools, technical silks, – enhance the precision of the lines and the weightlessness of the sartorial construction, with flattened crinkles, photoprints of graphic assemblages and progressive stripe patterns giving rhythm to the surfaces. Macro chiné motifs have a painterly feel, mineral dyes add depth to denim.
The #UseTheExisting mindset is a brand’s commitment to use more and more wool and technical fabrics developed by the Zegna textile division with innovative processes from pre-existing sources. The “Achill” suit, entirely made with wool remnants from Zegna’s Achill farm, discarded during the process of suit making and then remixed and rewoven, fully closes the circle of traceability and sustainability. In keeping with the functional mood, accessories are pragmatic: bold-soled printed boots or derbies; signature Claudio sneakers; wearable notebooks and pouches in small geometric shapes.
The sense of industrial elegance is rounded by the mix of mineral hues of cement, steel, carbon and matt black with earthy tones of brass, rust, red blaze, sand and matt gold and light notes of nude, aqua, leaf green, teal and oxidized copper.
Transformation comes to the fore as just another aspect of inclusiveness: a Zegna pillar through and through.
Mon, June 17 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, June 15 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, June 15 2019 » Fashion Blog
MARCO DE VINCENZO SPRING SUMMER 2020 MEN’S COLLECTION – PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO
Pum! is Marco de Vincenzo’s first men collection, a debut designed and developed through his life’s PUM!. «I had in mind a real man, who alternates between moderation and excess, strictness and kryptonite. An everyday superhero». Here he is.
Sparks of light, optical and material impressions: in his basic wardrobe everything has movement and three-dimensionality.
Pleated tulle paired with cool wool, drilled vinyl, coated boucle and lacquered macrame, heat adhesive glittery patches. Marco de Vincenzo likes to shape matter from scratch. «To me this is the sense of imagination: handling, shaping, transforming suggestions into tactile visions».
The small plant in a hand inside a vase that shines, as a symbol of protection and rebirth, it conveys the bond that men have with the earth.
Fri, June 14 2019 » Fashion Blog
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SPRING SUMMER 2020 MEN’S COLLECTION – PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO
HOMECOMING
In the first men’s collection under the creative direction of Paul Andrew, Florence comes alive with the energy of a multicultural, multigenerational vision for the Ferragamo man. The city’s profound artistic, intellectual and economic traditions, the neighboring mills, factories and artisans, the famed Fountain of Neptune recently restored by Ferragamo — all serve as the rich ingredients of a new aesthetic direction, the style code for a new era. At once gloriously ancient and stunningly modern, Florence is the fire in the eye of Ferragamo, a place with which it is and shall always be synonymous.
Traditional menswear codes encounter more youthful notions of style in this collection, such that a lightweight technical parka takes the place of a classic blazer, the five-pocket jean is flared and in leather, the trouser is full throughout the leg and long, and the tailored jacket is rendered as utilitarian sportswear. Masculinity is communicated with a freedom no longer constrained by inflexible gender norms.
Colour, raw material and innovative craft hold information and convey culture in Paul Andrew’s Ferragamo. A broad palette of earth tones and natural shades is illuminated with saturated moments of candy pink, luminous green and deep night. Nappa leather bonded with cotton jersey, technical linen gabardine, ripstop cotton nylon, wool mohair, deerskin and sueded calfskin comprise an essential catalog of researched fabrics and skins across ready-to-wear and leather goods.
Inspired by archival shoe designs and local Tuscan artisans, intricate weaving techniques and raffia embroideries appear in passages of womenswear, connecting the men’s universe with the women’s, affirming the fundamental role of craftsmanship as the origin and beating heart of the house.
The marriage of high-craft and high-tech, a signature concept in Andrew‘s vision for Ferragamo, is articulated here in a split-platform espadrille, an interchangeable laced suede sandal-boot inspired by Salvatore’s 1951 ‘Kimo’ style, and a leather and rubber sneaker conceived with bench-made savoir faire. Bags and small leather goods project the luxury of impeccable skins and unadorned utility.
Envisioned by Paul Andrew, the Ferragamo man has lived and loved, won and lost, and has the wisdom and dimension that comes only with experience. His identity can be celebrated on the podium, but it does not rely upon showcase to exist. Indeed, he is uninterested in being discovered – he has already found himself.
Fri, June 14 2019 » Fashion Blog
Wed, June 12 2019 » Fashion Blog
ICEBERG SPRING SUMMER 2020 MEN’S COLLECTION – LONDON FASHION WEEK
Going underground, going underground.Well, let the boys all sing and let the boys all shout for tomorrow.
There is an air of positive rebellion at ICEBERG for Spring-Summer 2020 where youth tribes and cultures meet and combine in hyper colour and monochrome. Where, in the imagination of James Long, the Punks of Kings Road hang out with the Sloanes and Hoorays of Knightsbridge (the spiritual home of the original ICEBERG London store) and South Kensington Goths.
Proudly kicking-off with ICEBERG x PETER BLAKE* who’s instantly recognisable riot of pop-art graphics cover shirt and trouser full looks, mini dresses and easy knits. His seminal Babe Rainbow and Amerika artworks (a technically intricate sweater of bird’s-eye intarsia, jacquard and embroidery), hearts, rainbows and Mod target unify across clothes and accessories and are reflected in see-now-buy-now ICEBERG x Linda Farrow shades.
A boyish Rocker zipped sleeve jacket and matching bondage trousers flash and unzip to reveal the palest candy flesh pink for men and women. And, for those who prefer Bauhaus or Iggy crooning “I love your hair” in their headphones there are navy on navy sports tailoring with tonal shirts. Or black with black tracksuits and a chic, gender fluid take on fishnet comes in the form of vests and maxi skirts. Name belts, Vibram sole trainers, trouser legs, necks and ears are adorned and drip heavy with chains: Le Goth Sportif.
The high shine of a Mod “tonic” suit morphs into silver zip jackets, Bermuda shorts and bungee tied trousers. A tee shirt is bound tightly with the same integral ropes. For the ICEBERG woman Tonal Punky Flower orchids climb over chic tailoring in fluro primaries on white. Worn with crisp shirts and a matching tie she is the Mod in modern.
Colour blocked fluid maxi looks in satin, chiffon and crepes for her and Cupro wash-effect silk joggers and matching bomber in a soft turquoise for him. The Loony Tunes Drip all-over print is well, all over easy fit shirts, short shorts and sweaters. ICEBERG Bubble Writing in pink and silver or teal and mustard is a camouflage for urban warriors looking for their Promised Land.
*ICEBERG launches the first in a series of on-going collaborations under the banner: ICEBERG ART DENIM
Wed, June 12 2019 » Fashion Blog
