ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE SPRING SUMMER 2018 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Sketches from Hidden Garden

For his debut Summer collection, Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori is clashing innocence and sensual masculinity in an exploration of conscious and sub-conscious fantasies. The linear backdrop of one of the historic courtyards of Milan’s Università Statale is the framework for a futuristic garden with tangerine lawns in a labyrinth of aesthetic compositions. Outdoor life unexpectedly meets the indoor throughout a fresh summery breeze which pervades the fluidity of fabrics and delicate silhouettes enlightened by a blaze of colors.

Couture constructions fly and inflate, moving with a carefree attitude. The interplay of proportions privileges uncommon freedom and ease replacing classic shirts with deconstructed tops in various volumes, doubled tank tops and scoop neck sweaters play with active yet tailored trousers and joggers. The studied assembly of sport-inspired clothing is enriched by oversized handmade pockets, hoods and iconic Triple Stitch logos, synonymous with Couture. Fluid washed silks, Century Cashmere and pure mohair confer concrete weightlessness to the collection, while giro inglese and mesh jacquards, together with perforated and intarsia leather give hints of ethereal substance.

The delicate color palette favors natural shades of walnut, signature Vicuna, geranium, freesia, lotus, cypress and bleached aqua, while optical whites meet unexpected color flashes. Even the accessories indulge in the laid-back pace of the season: technical Triple-stitch sandals, elasticated leather boots and iconic maxi-logo TIZIANO sneakers for footwear immediately available for purchase; and the super-soft evolution of PELLE TESSUTA™ in new, colorful knitted effects for bags, baseball hats and visors.

“To design a forward-looking men’s fashion wardrobe built around fluidity, freshness and color but enriched by the possibility of adding your own hint of personality and style, I couldn’t imagine a better place than this courtyard, where I often spent time in my youth reading, writing and sketching,” said Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori.

The day after the show, twelve of the Couture looks seen on the catwalk will be available to order Made-to-Measure in selected worldwide boutiques, with delivery scheduled within eight-weeks as per the rigorous atelier process. Yet it’s the degree of one-of-a-kind personalization, in which every single garment and accessory from the show is customizable with handmade knotting, painting and embroidery uniquely crafted by Zegna artisans, that reveals the true depth of Ermenegildo Zegna’s commitment to Bespoke. It is here, indeed, that the genuine Zegna values can be seen within every hand-made stitch.

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Tags: ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE SS 2018, SPRING SUMMER 2018 MEN'S COLLECTION

Thu, June 22 2017 » Fashion Blog

HUGO SPRING SUMMER 2018 COLLECTION – PITTI IMMAGINE FLORENCE

The collection’s inspiration began with voodoo symbolism, leading to a focus on its art, its expression and the artist as an individual. Referencing photographs of artists such as Basquiat and their natural expression of style, the look this season is inspired by this creative spirit, wearing even the most precious clothing in a non-precious way.

With its DNA of unconventional fashion, the brand draws on the artist as an outsider who sees things from a different angle and thinks differently – bringing this same attitude to dressing. Sensitive yet carefree, this is someone who follows their own rules, just like HUGO.

Many pieces in the collection itself serve as a canvas. Artistic prints feature on delicate men’s mesh T-shirts and women’s sheer hand-painted silk organza dresses, contrasted with chunky paint-splattered sneakers and throw-on workwear jackets.

In shape and tailoring, the collection draws inspiration from the first HUGO collection, in 1993. Silhouettes are easy and loose with ankle-length, body-skimming slip dresses, oversize outerwear and relaxed trousers, while suit designs are seen through a new lens with stripped-back constructions and exaggerated proportions.

Elsewhere, the balance of tailoring is completely reworked. Suit jackets and shirts are designed to fall forward and drape off the body, turning traditional cuts and fits on their head. A number of pieces are created to be unisex – take a soft-cut pajama suit, an oversize tailored jacket or belted overalls.

For Spring/Summer 2018, HUGO plays with accessories. Men’s bags are blown up to giant size and sneakers feature thick, chunky soles. Conversely, women’s bags are scaled down to miniature proportions, while ultra-long earrings, or a string of pearls worn along the length of a finger, add a playful touch.

The collection’s colors are taken directly from the painter’s studio: neutral tones of white, beige and khaki are splashed with a palette of brights, including blues, yellow and signature HUGO red.

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