The prints come from hand-painted canvas, exhibited backstage at the fashion show, representing animal skins.
The ‘trompe l’œil’ effect is enhanced by the illusory mix of pythons leather printed with tiger or jaguar motifs, furs printed with python motif, pony skins transformed into crocodile.
Imaginary animals from pure fantasy are born. The silhouette: very short or maxi.
Mini skirts or ‘balloon’ dresses show the legs and are created with three-dimensional placed embroideries, in brocade or filleted fur, printed or inlaid.
Maxi skirts made of python leather painted with tiger motif, lasered mink with crocodile effect or cashmere cloth are combined with jacquard mohair sweaters or with entirely embroidered t- shirts.
Sculpture dresses in printed silk mousseline do not follow the line of the body but they redesign it and open in large ruffles and flounces in silk organza embellished with tiny pleated ruffles and black lace.
Haute artisanship prevails throughout the collection. Leather punched sequin mixed with micro feathers. Embroidery in relief with three-dimensional effects that recreate animal mantles or reptile scales.
The jackets and coats, made of black python leather or printed with ocelot or tiger mantle effect, have structured shoulders and a narrow waistline.
Large necklaces and bracelets made of metal covered with python or colored enamel depicting flamingos, snakes, crocodiles, embellished with colored stones.
Jockey hats covered with feathers, fur and crocodile.
The Florence bag is embellished with new details such as closures or strings of leather with buckles, inspired by the high quality of ‘hand made’ trunks.
Pointy pump shoes and lace up boots in python, crocodile, ostrich and lizard.
Big sunglasses named Wild Diva with mirrored lenses have sharp, emphatic outlines, underlined by crocodile, ostrich or galuchat inlaid workings to create an iconic and glamorous style with a daring shape and bold colors.
The scenery is characterized by a carpet of 39,000 roses that recreate the design of the tiger mantle: Schwarz black roses, bright copper color Cherry Brandy roses, brown Coffee Break roses, yellow Ilios roses on a bed of white roses and carnation.
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, Roberto Cavalli, ROBERTO CAVALLI F/W 2012-13, ROBERTO CAVALLI FALL WINTER 2012-2013
Inspirations of the Roberto Cavalli Man for the Autumn-Winter 2012/2013 collection unfold like a fable. Oneiric, ironic and philosophical, with touches of Tarantino; it is narrated as if by an ancient parchment, given to the fashion show. With dream like accompaniment by the blues chords and dissonances of one-man band Son of Dave, performing live on the runway amidst this shadow play. His music bewitches like a snake charmer, enchanting four animal-like men; incarnations and metaphors of the natural elements: air, earth, water, fire; definite personifications of the multifaceted soul of next season’s Roberto Cavalli man. The elements transform the wardrobe, giving life to the various themes of the show.
It begins with animalier patterns- the starting point of the collection – which in spires the design of patterns, prints and embroidery, shaking up the customary sartorial habits. Fabrics and patters are renewed through the use of three-dimensional effects that resemble imperceptible natural tattoos.
Crocodile skin is used not only as a material for extremely precious smoking jackets—the scales themselves are printed on velvet, also lending their texture to the smoking jackets, and giving new life to jeans. Tiger print, on the other hand, abandons its theatrical presence, plays a more low-key role: cutouts and stitching on matelassé bikers, cashmere capes, or the jacquard from the knitwear. Snake is still present, used for profiles and snake print details.
Feathers play a significant role, revisited in black and white photographic prints, micro to macro, on silk, often rendered even more precious by the application of real feathers and aigrettes. At times magnified, creating a new kind of spotted-pattern with a graphic and masculine allure.
Cheviot stripes are still present, as are pinstripes (appearing this time out on denim), English wool and the more classical chevron. Lapels of dinner jackets are embroidered with crystals, returning to their traditionally smaller form in silk and cashmere, or recreated directly on the garments through skilful sartorial cutting.
Suits and urban-suits take inspiration from traditional tailoring. The silhouettes however, present an abrupt lightness, as if caressed by a desert wind, the same wind that influences the choice of textiles and wearability, unexpectedly more fluid and relaxed compared to the formal precision of the past seasons. There is an evolution – rather than a revolution – of the fit: underlined by a slightly narrower shoulder, trousers sitting looser on the thighs, refined shirts from pashmina, and destructured coats with raglan sleeves.
The hint of a sophisticated oriental zephyr. Found also in particular details: the fine threaded embroideries, or the cornelly profiles gently worked like ottoman calligraphy. The palette is composed of nocturnal and eerie tones inspired by blues music, which fade into nuances of saturated colors darkly tinted, like blacks, grays and blues, harmoniously clashing with unexpected flashes of acid yellow, antique pink or sugar cane.
Essential leather Chelsea boots, which are also worn over the pants, and slippers, entirely embroidered with real feathers, as are the sashes and thin scarves that are left gently draping under the smoking jackets. Braided leather, snake, fabric and metal belts like Berber jewels, felt hats and necklaces with rock crystals, onyx and solid stone with the tressé python emblems.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13, Roberto Cavalli, ROBERTO CAVALLI F/W 2012-13, ROBERTO CAVALLI F/W 2012-13 MEN
