“Carven is one of France’s historic labels,” says Lapo Cianchi, Pitti Immagine director of communications and events, “and now, with Guillaume Henry as artistic director, it is enjoying a new burst of strength. His new vision for Carven menswear became immediately visible through his natural, lighthearted elegance, and his use of clean lines and fine, understated material.
We were very impressed when we went to see the Winter collection in the Paris showroom last season, it harmonized perfectly with the general trend we are promoting at Pitti Uomo: a new, sartorial elegance and affordable luxury in menswear.
Then, I met Guillaume in his studio and he struck me as a person who has held onto the curiosity, energy and spirit of observation that are the prerogatives of youth, but at the same time is fully aware of the fact that he is the standard-bearer of the great tradition founded by Madame Carven.
We are convinced that Carven and Guillaume Henry will find the right conditions for moving forward with their project here at Pitti Uomo in Florence, and we are very pleased that they have accepted our invitation”.
“Thanks a lot to Pitti Immagine to give Carven Carte blanche” – Says Guillaume Henry creative director of Carven – “This unexpected rendezvous for the house, outside of Paris and any calendars, is a true luck and a great honor.
I hope this will be the occasion to express the freshness and the spontaneity that I am looking to forward through our collections, for both men as for women. Shall we meet in Florence, in pleasure and full of joy!”
“At the end of the day – By The London Metropolitan Orchestra”
“Dayglo Reflection – Bobby Womack feat Lana Del Rey”
“Unfinished Sympathy [Perfecto Mix] by Massive Attack”
Innovation comes from the past, and the future recognizes tradition. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli‘s stylistic approach to the Valentino menswear collection expresses a fusion of contrasts. Due to its authenticity and sartorial spirit, Florence is the setting for this line.
Designend as a new element used in the construction of an ideal wardrobe, the Spring/Summer 2013 collection is edgy and energizing. The mental landscape is the same: archetypical menswear. Perspectives and tools for interpretation have evolved.
By smoothly blending styles and solutions, pragmatic items – from the field jacket and trench coat to the parker and denim trucker jacket – are restyled, morphing sports and Couture. Its DNA is manipulated from within. Techniques are combined to create new textures, and lightness find structure.
The silhouette is distinct: more volume al the back creates a cool Couture look. Here, more is more: a combination of several materials, textures and colors defines the garments. Opaque layering and rubberized intaglio details create camouflage patterns on the trench coat.
The skinny jacket with drop sleeve is a geometric collection of heat-bonded and intarsia elements. The back of the parka is covered with constructive details. The contrast of weight and lightness is used to an advantage: padding and fiber become functional elements or disappear inside bonded fabric. Sleek, spare design creates shapes with wonderful pure lines: plain pea coats, white shirts with the basic look of a polo shirts, and sleek, clean suits. Knitwear has a compact texture.
Crisp materials such as natté nylon, wool/silk barathea, wool/nylon blends, dry cotton, Japanese denim, leather and treated linen – balance luxury and performance. The color palette is pragmatic, but it also breaks out of the mold: masculine army green, camel, blue, black, gray and ivory are accented with splashes of rust, red, and acid green.
The search for edginess can also be found in accessories such as sleek camouflage laced shoes and running shoes made of a combination of different materials.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have a clear and concise fashion perspective: changing the structure and therefore the use of a garment is the sartorial equivalent of liquid modernity.
A meaningful and emotional fashion was presented in Florence on the 18th of June 2012.
The first to be held in the Uffizi Gallery. A tribute to elegance and to the Florentine Heritage, strongly desired by the designer Stefano Ricci.
“On behalf of my family, I would like to extend my gratitude to the Superintendence for the effective collaboration of the last few weeks, for the availability since the very first steps of this dream turning into reality” said Stefano Ricci on the eve of the premiere fashion show opening the Pitti Immage Uomo.
The presentation of the new collection was inspired by the themes of great literature, from the pages of Francis Scott Fitzgerald to the atmospheres evoked by Ernest Hemingway. In addition to Stefano Ricci‘s passions, the true sartorial elegance of the 100% Made-in-Italy production and the Great Mother Africa.
Without any doubt, the most touching moment was the presence of eight Maasai warriors who flew from Tanzania to express their gratitude to Stefano Ricci‘s family which has been involved for many years in projects to protect the Maasailand region.
For this reason, the head of the community of Olorash in the area of Monduli near Arusha (Tanzania) wanted a delegation of his people, who never flew out from their territory, to be present at the event.
This is a special tribute to Stefano Ricci, who was appointed as Chief of the Maasai community in Simanjiro in 1999. African colors and atmospheres have characterized the creations by Stefano Ricci for forty years.
The runway, under the direction of Romeo Conte, showcased the items of the new high-fashion menswear collection by Stefano Ricci: double-breasted jackets, fine cashmere-silk, soft crocodile leather jackets and vests, denim and luxurious sport-bags, silk sportswear outfits.
It is important to mention the women’s walk-out wearing black silk trousers and shirts holding a limited edition of crocodile bags with accessories in gold and diamonds, together with crocodile belts embellished by jewels, and precious cufflinks (the specifics of the walks-out are available on the photo book of the fashion show).
Noteworthy is the hand-made production and the fact that next September Stefano Ricci will inaugurate a new production centre where sewing machines will be banned.
The Valentino maison returns to Florence where the story began in 1962. A fine thread links past and present, the Sala Bianca and Palazzo Corsini: a tribute to men’s Couture becomes an opportunity to look to the future, aware of a glorious tradition.
The style is sleek and timeless. Inovation is inspired by the past, and authenticity is a value. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli compose the pieces of an iconographic sartorial collection that. establishes contemporary masculinity without confining it within a formula.
The rigorous aesthetic comes from the technique: from cuts, construction, and a savoir faire that is constantly updated. It focuses on details and particular aspects that may not be seen a first glance. Subtleness is the salient trait of the Valentino man and his understand, unconscious elegance.
A modernist mood – in pursuit of clarity and simplicity – permeates the Fall/Winter 2012-13 collection. The silhouette is sharp. The process of concise editing is translated into a modular wardrobe: archetypal garments that are in the eyes and DNA of men, from the suit to the loden coat, are restyled by rebelliously toying with the rules of apparent normalcy. The loud-mouthed culture is replaced by whispers: true luxury today is talking the people who chosen to listen.
Architectural shapes, with affirmative aplomb, are achieved through subtraction weight and anything unnecessary are eliminated. Couture and sportswear techniques are combined to create a news stylistic languages that is sartorial and dynamic. The construction are combined to create a news stylistic language that is the sartorial and dynamic. The construction can be seen underneath the fabric: The compact line of jackets is obtained through fabric bonded the horsehair facings, not to the lining. Heat-bonded tape replaces seams on shirts. Slim-fit darted trousers have a razor pleat and are ankle-lenght. Outerwear has a sleek, pure line: fitted peacoats have a small shoulders and the carcoat has more volume at the back. The color of cashmere sweaters with a jersey base underlines the sum of the parts and creates impalpable volumes. Back collars and details on the deep blue tuxedo create unusual embellishments that quickly bring to mind the hedonistic nightlife of Rome in the sixties.
A subtle sense of surprise runs through the collection with two-tones ties, constructivist prints, and unusual combinations.
Materials are precious and compact felt, wool/silk barathea, wool and nylon blends, dry cotton, Japanese denim, and leather. The color palette suggest urban camouflage: masculine gray nuances – from stone gray to metal – and virile shades of blue are interrupted by offbeat splashes of red-black, forest green and beige.
The search for soft precision continues in accessories: leather clutches and totes, sleek Oxford shoes, and enameled metal sunglasses.
The collection’s visione of precise style express subtly subversive elegance that is sophisticated yet free of frills and with a sartorial couture approach, because refreshingly light simplicity is always invisible to the eye but clearly makes the difference.
