Overt/Covert
Clothes help bind us to our gender. They define us. But confine us? For Fall Winter and Pre-Fall 2018, Moschino teases, tests and twists the conventional boundaries of masculine and feminine in search of re-evaluation, liberation, and stimulation. Jeremy Scott says: “For this collection I wanted to play around with the idea of mixing masculine and feminine in an assertively subversive way. So as well some overt dress codes of gender – maybe pent-up pinstripe suiting for her, florals, lace and frou-frou for him.”
For Pre-Fall Moschino’s womenswear collection, Scott’s story features the firm smack of fetishised discipline; tailored jackets and pants, a dress, a white men’s shirt, and a parka all worn under PVC body-stockings and gimp masks. Some of these pieces are decorated with safety-pin attached patches on which words in tabloid font shout suggestively; “STUD”, “FETISH”, “X-rated”, “SPANK”, “PLEASURE”, “PAIN”, to name a few. Other pieces – like a Hepburn-perfect green tweed coat – come apparently unadorned until you investigate the attached corset on the back. Spaghetti-strapped, lace-edged black slip dresses are teamed with a tabloid-patch high-cut bomber jacket or tricep-high PVC gloves that gleamingly highlight the articulation of the limb.
A nuanced feminine overture sees Scott set on the appropriation and reprogramming of some of masculine clothing’s most fixed formal algorithms. The cummerbund is retooled as the center of gravity for a fitted black dress, teamed with a high-fronted tail-coat whose tails morph into button-holedold-school men’s suspenders. Suspenders – clipped and elasticated this time – are similarly deployed as unexpected masculine accents to hold up the bodice of a PVC booted bad-girl-show-girl look. Pinstripe or plain black tuxedos, reduxed and recut, are smokingly subversive; cut-away panels, inverted double armholes and midriff-hinting high waistcoats undercut the externalised language of formal masculinity with feminised depth. A pinstripe jacket is slashed apart across the sternum and held aloft – along with the bodice beneath it – by more suspenders.
One overtly decorative element is a series of pretty-silhouette dresses in often pleated printed silk crepe. The twist? Those prints, often abstracted by the in and out folds of the fabric, reproduce the sensually illicit Polaroids of Italian furniture designer Carlo Mollino. As well as a fiercely independent designer, Mollino had a secret passion for photographing always-anonymous one-time-only models in poses of apparent wantonness – here Scott takes these male-gaze made erotic images and reappropriates them for the female wearer.
The almost – but-not-quite – crescendo for Pre sees a series of archetypally feminine gowns in maroon velvet or black silk played against a black strapless gown that features a bias cut train cut in the shape of an enormous black satin glove.
Just as Scott articulates his much in his female looks via a language conventionally deemed masculine, so he inverts the process in Moschino’ s Autumn Winter 2018 menswear collection.
Here the story features with less slap, more tickle. Mirroring Pre, we see those tabloid-font patched parkas and tailored pieces reissued, all worn below equestrian helmet-caps that whisper of the riding crop. Tailcoats are cut away at the shoulder and then held up by suspender. The bad-girl-show-girl look is mirrored in an ensemble of tailcoat (whose tail is feminised with soft gather and fold) cummberbund, and black PVC underpants. An artificially unfinished pinstripe double breasted jacket is delivered with just one breast, to be worn jauntily off-the-shoulder. Tailcoats and tailored pants come in ditzy floral, while in outerwear more conventionally masculine fabrics – gray tweed, russet wool – are lent a jolt of gender-fluidity via the insertion of panels and trains in floral or jewelled boucle at the back.
Moschino woman and Moschino man come together – conjoined by a tandem tuxedo jacket built for for two and linked at the tail. Apart yet together. Mutual objects of opposition and attraction. Women and Men.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2018-19, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2018-19
Wed, February 7 2018 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Moschino Fall Winter 2018/19 Menswear and Women’s Pre – Collection Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 13th January 2018 8 PM (CET). Stay Tuned!!!
Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2018, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018, LIVE STREAMING, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FALL WINTER 2018
Sat, January 13 2018 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Moschino Spring/Summer 2018 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 21th September 2017 8 PM. Stay Tuned!!! #MOSCHINOLITTLEPONY
Tags: LIVE STREAMING, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO SS 2018, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2018
Thu, September 21 2017 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Moschino Spring Summer 2018 Menswear and Women’s Resort Collection Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Los Angeles 8th June 2017 7.30 PM PDT. Stay Tuned…!!!
Tags: LIVE STREAMING, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO SS 2018, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2018, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2018
Wed, June 7 2017 » Fashion Blog
Sun, April 16 2017 » Fashion Blog
Moschino Fall/Winter 2017: Materials girl
For Fall/Winter 2017 Jeremy Scott presents a Moschino woman who is so enraptured with fashion that she wraps herself in every material to bring her closer to it. She is the antidote to the unsustainable cycles of consumption. Her cure? To take materials the rest of us reject and wear them with Moschino panache.
The collection opens with a series of looks we’re calling “Cardboard Couture” – these are uptown-elegant silhouettes for day crafted in what appears to what most people rip open then throw out when their online orders arrive: packaging! “Fragile” stickers, “This Way Up” stamps, “Do Not Crush” warnings, duct tape trims and tracking dockets provide the functional equivalent to floral on Scott’s special delivery pieces. Her oeuvre extend from cardboard into a soignee skirt suit and off-color camel coat hewn in gray packing felt with duct tape accents, to a skirt of frayed newsprint fringe, and looks in boldly opaque bubble-wrap.
She’s so wrapped up in fashion – and a committed recycler – that she takes the gateway drug for her fascination with fashion magazines and turns them into clothes. Glossy editorials featuring previous Scott for Moschino collections are printed in trompe l’oeil tear-sheet prints. She crafts suits, pants, dresses, and even a “fur” coat out of her glossy collages along with all the accessories needed to compliment these haute papier looks!
As the collection develops so too does the source material. A broader and broader palette provides the fuel for a reiteration of classic tropes of style via radically unorthodox delivery systems. The Moschino bag dress is reimagined in plastic as a mini-dress, and dry-cleaning sheaths become the raw material of poised full-length cocktail gowns. Why are diamond earrings classier than those hewn from tin cans? Why should organza be any more permanent than trash-bag plastic – with a half-life of forever – when under consideration as the raw material for an evening dress?
This is the ultimate high-low collection. Candelabras, carpets, tissue boxes and even the curtains are called upon for her to adorn herself with. Fashion is powered by desire, and this collection acknowledges the overlooked physical consequences – the fall-out.
Because we are what we wear.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2017-18, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2017-18
Sat, April 15 2017 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Moschino Fall Winter 2017 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 23rd February 2017 at 8.00 PM. Stay Tuned…!!!
Tags: FALL WINTER 2017-18, LIVE STREAMING, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2017
Wed, February 22 2017 » Fashion Blog
Sat, January 21 2017 » Fashion Blog
Moschino 2017 Men’s and Women’s Pre-Fall
PARAMILITARY
The place: an ancient palazzo. The time: an indeterminate future. The collection: a curated clash between dystopia and hope presented by Moschino designer Jeremy Scott. For Pre-Fall and Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 we are on a mission. The models emerge into the scarlet glow of digital clocks set to countdown. The collection is half artful collision, half meaningful division.
The baseline uniform is military. Olive cotton drill and parachute silk are issued as jumpsuits, elongated MA1’s, field jacket skirts, and camouflaged combat separates. These are worn alongside webbing harnesses, combat boots and cavalry boots. Ripcords provide ruche and gather, a hooded wind-cheater is deployed as a ruffled dress, and that camo’s color-scheme is twisted from you-don’t-see-me to oh-please-do: but this much more than a by-the-numbers subversion of military gear.
Because – BANG – there are tulle-pumped evening gowns and tailcoats strafed with scenes of conflict. Elegance fighting back, beauty uprising. These scenes run from Italianate frescoes depicting the eternal struggles through to Transformer laser-lit panoramas of epic battles in space. Sometimes the decoration is a source of conflict: a fresco half painted over by heavy black brushstrokes, an olive drill evening gown or overprinted denim jacket daubed with the outline of roses.
There are other tensions, other ambiguities at play here too. Moschino-classic black leather biker pieces are cut in with panels of gold on back floral jacquard: hard and soft. Jeremy Scott is proud to have recruited Judy Blame to contribute his hand-hewn headpieces: berets strafed with metal hardware that resemble disassembled Swiss Army knives.
Beauty conjured up through the magic of feeling. Pre-Fall or Pre the Fall? From then, for now, until when? Beauty and freedom are worth fighting for. That marabou rainbow burns brightest when set against a dark background. This season Scott delivers an anti-uniform for whats to come. So rise up and get dressed before the clock counts down to zero.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2017-18, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2017-18, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2017-18
Sat, January 21 2017 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Moschino Fall Winter 2017-18 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 14th January 2017 8 PM. Stay Tuned…!!!
Tags: FALL WINTER MAN 2017-18, LIVE STREAMING, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2017-18
Sat, January 14 2017 » Fashion Blog
