MM6 MAISON MARGIELA FALL WINTER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – LONDON FASHION WEEK
In the exercise of documenting a generation, the call and repeat of appropriation and innovation becomes tangible. At a certain point, even the most recognizable tropes are subject to such interpretations that meaning is altered and new creative expressions are born. The MM6 collection for Autumn Winter 2020 considers this conceit, employing controlled methods to approach the zeitgeist whilst avoiding nostalgia itself. To wit: a Parisian maison, showing in London, inspired by New York.
Whilst delving into disparate eras of underground club culture and its glamorous protagonists, the MM6 collection subverts the expectations of myriad garments by applying the house concept of ‘circularity’. Draping exercises in the atelier have led to sculpted circle skirts and sweaters, whilst tailoring constructions see jacket sleeves displaced for a new posture.
A landmark collaboration with The North Face sees their iconic Expedition System outerwear transformed as padded circle coats, jackets, a top and dress. The urban connotation of colour-blocked all-weather gear permeates the collection, clashing with hound’s tooth, ribbed lurex, and Fair Isle knitting.
Offsetting the cape effect of curved tops, a series of detachable tailored sleeves tie behind the shoulders – furthering the effect of contrast layering through bright turtlenecks, lariat bodysuits and tabi gloves. MM6 reviews are shredded from fashion magazines and collaged into a custom ‘zebra’ motif applied on jacquard and satins pieces for a subversive take on this classic animalia print.
Across the MM6 accessories collection, the ‘circle’ concept is applied to conventionally geometric objects to create new forms such as the signature Japanese origami bag in stamped croc, circular bandanas, leather cardholders, and a round knitted hat. Musicality informs a percussive jewellery collection, from a tambourine choker to cymbal earrings and rings.
For a 1960 ́s East Village spirit revisited, a heavy chain-link bracelet is slung across biker boots with the cylinder ‘6’ stamp heel, finished in rough suede, mirrored silver, and thigh-high stretch leather. In collaboration with Mykita, textured Mylon bar frames eyewear styles merge high performance with an MM6 attitude.
Recorded by the MM6 studio, a custom vinyl recording played on the occasion of the AW20 presentation in London, England, consists of a six-channel track featuring isolated sonic expressions of the collection.
