KNIT ME UP!
Trompe l’œil marble veining on the body like tattoos. New space-dyed patterns in wide, uneven and blurred bands like television static. Coloured metallic inlaid within the graphic patter of wood and marble. The alluring marquetry of cuts, patterns and textures. Graphics of the materials from postmodern interior design, like works by Richard Artschwager.
These are the markings of the neo-body-conscious Missoni woman for next Winter armed with the dashing and seductive spontaneity of her “deep in knit” ensembles. Tight legging-like trousers combine with one-shoulder knits and deep zippered V necks. Overalls in sheer marbled jersey are worn under metallic mash tank dresses or short tight linear dresses with body-revealing slits.
Soft and enveloping, elastic and versatile, satiny and transparent as a second skin. Long masculine jackets and capes with narrow tuxedo lapels, in which jacquard patterns expand like construction games on horizontal, perpendicular and diagonal levels, transforming the veining and zigzags into something more abstract, spectacular and iconic.
Bands of colour from white to black, from orange to bright red from greens to purple to pastel colours. Space dyeing and zigzags, veined and striped jaquards alternate and interact like the mark of an energetic and playful collection that gives freedom to mix and match.
Illuminated by long and ultralight dangling metal coloures fringes earrings and accessorized with calfskin boots, shoes and sabots with slashed upper and C-shaped heels in resin and metal. Little marbled resin bags feature bands with sides and linings in laminated suede. Large leather bags have two handles and sides in laminated suede.
Mariuccia Casadio
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, MISSONI, MISSONI FW 2015-16
Missoni Men’s F/W 2015 collection draws inspiration from the artist, both as muse and expressive force as he travels along the Trans-Siberian-Manchurian rail line; a steel-tracked metaphor of man’s longing for discovery and adventure.
Steadily gaining momentum, our artist sits in idle observance as a melange of imagery swiftly passes before his eyes. The piercing wilderness of Russian, Mongolian and Chinese terrains, indigenous tribes and eclectic cultures blur one into the other and arouse his senses.
Immersed in this epic journey, his noble function is to give form and cohesion to this convergence of unrelenting stimuli and unrestrained emotions. In transit even while standing still, this collection captures the romantic essence of the artist and his experiences, exhibiting a certain painterly dynamism in static motion.
The Missoni man is romantically draped in softly tailored and oversized pieces executed in chunky cashmere, fluid cashmere-silk blends, felted lambswool, feathery, speckled wools and artfully crafted pelage-like yarns that luxuriously weather the Siberian climate while respecting the traditional fibers of the regions.
Somber hues of black, forest green, auburn, mineral brown, claret camel, ink and pewter reflect the passing landscape of imposing mountains, wild rivers, thick forests, and lush fields while strokes of bright amber, bamboo green, poppy red, Prussian blue and cornflower mimic the random spattering of distant villages and the colorful and graphic dress of their inhabitants.
Key elements to this season’s collection include: double-breasted coats, degradè-checked suits and oversized, loom-knit coats that have been wefted with either space-dyed tape to achieve an ikat effect or compact, wool-boucle yarn for a toweling effect—all created on Missoni’s exclusive, heritage looms in Sumirago; plaid, cashmere shirts that liken artists’ smocks and customary, regional tunics; macro, shawl-neck cardigans, realized in chunky, space-dyed cashmere, that resemble traditional robes worn in Central Asia; reversible, cashmere travel suits; and degradè, speckled wool/mohair hand-knits.
Sporadic flourishes of embroidered flowers can be found on many of the pieces throughout the collection that, from afar, liken haphazard paint splashes and, up close, bear a resemblance to the artistically elaborate embellishments traditionally found on regionally native garments. These irregularly-placed embroideries have also been applied to suede boots that finish each look to perfection.
This season once again welcomes the collaborative efforts of Missoni and Converse with a silk sports boot that incorporates an elasticated cashmere sock.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2015-16, MISSONI, MISSONI FW 2015-16
