MISSONI FALL WINTER 2020 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

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The narrative and emotional power of geometry is underestimated. As any other rigorous discipline, instead, geometry is full of feelings and nuances, as Edwin A. Abbott demonstrated a long ago in Flatland – A Romance of many dimensions.

This very geometric, unabashedly graphic Missoni collection is a story of feminine strength, empowerment and self awareness, told in straight lines, bold clean volumes, skin flashing throughout and the womanly taste for self decoration – using jewelry to add further layers to the story.

The freewheeling Missoni spirit is still there, but it marches to a beat of horizontal, diagonal and vertical stripes that shift, move, swing, wrap on and around the body, leaving no way to froth and frivolity – up to a point. The glittering of metal adds sparkle to a dense palette of earthy and burnt tones lit with dashes of red and turquoise.

Outerwear is bold and protective; blouson-cardigans have kimono closures and cropped tailored jackets in boxy shapes are worn with big trousers tucked into boots. Underneath, dresses and leggings cling to the body or reveal it, suggesting body-consciousness as just another facet of feminine power.

Even the New Bags with narrow scarves as straps have an assertive geometric presence. After dark, patterns melt and everything gets soft.

Menswear is just as bold in shape, sensual, and equally glittery. The neatness of the design lets geometry explode in a frenzy of patchwork, swarming everywhere and in every size, from micro to macro.

A Missoni signature through and through, patchwork is Missoni-ism elevated to an nth: a way to reaffirm optimism in these turbulent times. Letting geometry take the lead in the most playful and graphic of ways, patchwork allows for endless kaleidoscopic variations.

As such, it is luxuriously narrative, which finally demonstrates the theorem: the emotional power of geometry is potent. A warm thank you to Cameranebbia for their contribution to the setting of the show.

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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2020, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020, MISSONI, MISSONI FW 2020

MISSONI SPRING SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Summer is a feeling, a way of being and living, just as much as it is a season. So much so, in fact, that writer Albert Camus found there was, within himself, an invincible summer even in the midst of winter. But this is actually Summer, which naturally calls for an easy, breezy spirit; for a freedom of views and a fluidity of mind, reconnecting with nature, living in the outdoors.

A summery Missoni collection that is a new foray into a mindset that is freewheeling, effervescent and joyous by definition. Put together, which is a Missoni praxis just as much as it is a view onto things, informs a way of dressing that knows no boundaries of pattern, shape, color. The mix of everything is dematerialized by the weightless textures and light colors.

Protagonists of this summer that oozes the carelessness of a long day spent walking by the water, soaking up with sun rays and breeze, holding a basket in the hands and generally luxuriating in some dolce far niente is a couple. The feeling of mutual connection between the two is evident, from the way they behave to the way they appear.

Her dresses bare the shoulders, flow, swarm in printed layers; his tailored jackets are ombrè, his shirts knitted, his spirit is informal. They exchange prints, patterns and textures, making borders thin, or completely useless.

She steals a suit, maybe just the waistcoat or a pair of slippers; he indulges in a caftan, in the glittering of lurex. Summer turns into an effortless way to represent oneself.

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Tags: MISSONI, MISSONI SS 2020, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2020, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2020

MISSONI FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Stepping into the blue of a chroma key. The color allows the change of the background however one prefers, teleporting characters across eras and places, in a flip.

It’s a stargate, if you like. The Missoni chroma key is a door that connects different moments in the history of a fashion house that’s been active for more than six decades and has endlessly explored every path of knitwear.

The blue door connects the present time with an instant placed on the cusp of the mid seventies, when volumes were long, lean and liquid, and fashion danced around the body.

A time of high waists and elegant elongation; of enveloping coats, flowing capes and hoods. A flip, and the fluctuating lines materialize here and now, into the blue, in a wardrobe of jacquard coats, capes, jumpsuits, suits and dresses, put together with enveloping moves.

The glitter, the shine and the sparkle so defining of that era return, just like the bonnets and the pierrot collars, which however are brought to decisive proportions. The sparkle of lamè carries in the mens wardrobe, where shine, suiting and wide pants rule.

The long élan of Missoni bridging its own present and with its own past follows a clarity that is a matter of line as it is one of surfaces. Color blocks and blown-up jacquards stimulate the gaze in strict yet gentle ways.

The chroma key allows everything to come back. As such, it knows no nostalgia.

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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, MISSONI, MISSONI FW 2019-20

MISSONI FALL WINTER 2017-18 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Composed Dynamism. Order materializes from disorder. Sculptural contours delineate geometric figures. Intersecting lines contrast the material with the immaterial. Tonal glows and slumbering darkness surrender to the spirituous play of light. Missoni’s A/W 2017 Menswear Collection draws inspiration from the concrete barriers, metallic enclosures, oxidized mazes and jutting appendages of the subterranean and industrial networks that form the skeletal structures on which our indifferent urban surrounds are erected.

This is the backdrop upon which this season’s Missoni Man comes to life. Japan is the setting. Cashmere, mohair camel, yak, alpaca, and silk blend together to form an organic patchwork of sensorial perceptions and experiences that have been disassembled and reassembled. Discreetly striking colors distinguish themselves from the somberness of the urban tract: sango-iro coral bursts against petrol blue, navy and cobalt; chrysanthemum yellow radiates against black peony, maple red and camel; bright moss green explodes against nori green, lead grey and black.

Layered silhouettes of varying texture, shape and volume create subtle movements and vibrancy in direct opposition to the rigidity of confining infrastructure. Relaxed, loose and worn with a confident and playful nonchalance, this season’s put-together styles are eclectic and personal; reaffirming and evolving a language, a narrative and an identity: the manifestation of Missoni’s effortlessly cool nonconformist. Tradition, imagination and technique combine to great effect in Missoni’s exclusive loom-knit fabrics and knitwear.

Texture and color work in unison to form conceptual, undulating oil-slick patterns in iridescent dégradés for tailored garments and chunky- silk intarsia knits flecked with mohair. Metallic embroideries are inspired by Japanese Shibori designs. Oversized duffel coats with twisted-rope fastenings, sartorial jackets, sarouel and pajama pants are shown in abstract macro-and micro-tartan and houndstooth checks which hint at the blurred motifs of Japanese Kasuri textiles.

Patchworks of irregular compositions and soft geometries are pieced together in the traditional manner of kimono making and are used for oversized car coats, macro- check tracksuits, thick intarsia hand-knits and over-dyed suede cardigans that resemble traditional Japanese workwear with graphic, multicolored zigzag detailing in knit. Rounding out this contemporary collection are: cashmere pashmina blousons, raglan over-shirts, needlecord tracksuits with macro space-dye inserts, cardigans, crewnecks and loose-fitting fatigue pants.

A collaboration with the Paris-based milliner Larose has resulted in beautifully designed bucket hats, berets and caps finished in a selection of Missoni’s loom-knit fabrics used throughout the collection, adding a unique and distinctive flourish to each look.

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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2017-18, MISSONI, MISSONI FW 2017-18

MISSONI SPRING SUMMER 2017 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Purity. Essential to the Missoni Summer 2017 Collection: characterized by an informai and relaxed elegance and exemplified in the tank dresses that adhere to the body. Overlays of ribbed headbands, sarong scarves and petite cardigans tied at the waist define the silhouette.

Deep v-necks. Pieces with tromp-l’oeil effects. Lines that caress the body in micro dresses and fresh bathing suits and bikinis with micro tops and high-cut bottoms fashioned from lightweight space-dye knitwear. Illuminated by dazzling gold lamé that accentuates the spectacular nature and sensuality of the each individual piece, transforming them into precious jeweled objects.

The soft versatility of Missoni knitwear plays a principle part in the collection; evermore refined and exclusive due to our unique and innovative knitting techniques.

Textures are shaved, perforated, raised, elaborated, compacted and weightless; as delicate and airy as a spider’s web. Irregular color blocking is mixed with malachite or tiger stripes. Embroidered lace-knits and space-dye meshes are enhanced by brilliantly intense contrasts of yellow, turquoise, coral, sand, white and black.

New tones, stitches and compositions superimpose themselves to create differing lights and weights, creating aesthetically-rich variations. Knitwear plays on geometric forms while imitating the markings of solid stone and the natural surface erosion of rocks and pebbles.

Large, colorfully-lacquered disk earrings and talismanic bijoux inspired by exotic masks playfully accentuate looks that are completed by babouche slippers made from knitted patchworks and space-dyes, in foiled leather or decorated intarsia designs in a halide scope of vibrant colors.

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Tags: MISSONI, MISSONI SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017

MISSONI FALL WINTER 2016-17 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Missoni Men’s A/W 2016 collection symbolically narrates the tale of its nomadic man’s hypnotic excursion once he strays from the overland trail to trek the remote, mountainous lands of Ladakh. Imaginative anticipation, exploration and physical endurance are the foundation of a journey that erases all ties to place, time and convention while strengthening the desire for adventure amongst the imposing natural elements and spirited native culture. Soft tailoring, noble fibers, intense colors and ornate embroideries evoke these sentiments in a collection that is as much about sport as it is luxury.

Chunky cashmere and cashmere/silk blends, lightweight shetland wools and yak, alpaca and mohair fibers have been masterfully woven and knitted into stylish, utilitarian garments that can weather any winter chill while still allowing for relaxed movement. Shades of camel, amethyst and cinnabar with accents of turmeric and orange agate; sapphire and mineral brown with raids of turquoise and jade; and silvery gray, black and pewter with coral red and azurite blue handsomely encapsulate the aesthetic essence of traditional Ladakhi fabrics juxtaposed with the rugged outcrops and verdant valleys of the natural landscape.

Refinement and sport are key to this collection of pieces that impeccably transition from mountain encampments to urban navigation. Highlights include: two-piece, degradè sartorial suits created on Missoni’s heritage looms in Sumirago, loom-knit blazers, overcoats and gusseted hiking trousers that have been wefted with cashmere and loom-knit down-jackets that have been lined with an over-dyed technical cotton; fully-fashioned, quilted wool garments that have been padded with nylon filament; vests that have been hand-embroidered with ethnic coins; chunky-cable hand-knit cardigans seen with either a degradè effect or with an intarsia of a Ladakhi ibex; striped, macro-space-dye, cashmere pullovers and shaw-collar cardigans; a “short” parka made with space-dyed chain tape and bonded with a technical cotton and various knits embellished with fringe detailing.

This season’s collaborative projects are of a befitting nature. Diemme, Italian footwear manufacturer, has customized its classic Roccia Vet hiking boot, in leather and suede, using Missoni’s macro-space-dye knits for its cushion collar and laces. Porter, the Japanese luggage-and-accessories specialist, has used a specifically- created Missoni loom-knit on four of its most iconic bags: the 2-way garment bag, backpack, rucksack and tote. Converse’s 1970 High Chuck Taylor draws inspiration from 60’s hiking boots and features a Missoni chevron knit, suede inserts and a blooming effect for the rubber toe cap and sole.

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Tags: FALL WINTER 2016-17, MISSONI, MISSONI FW 2016-17

MISSONI SPRING SUMMER 2016 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Blocks of horizontal, vertical, diagonal and zigzag stripes lightly ripple knits, crepon and silk, with openwork, reliefs and canneté, transforming the Missoni Summer 2016 collection into a full immersion of color, graphic lines into a pictorial patchwork.

Wide kick pants but also slim, tailored trousers. Fluid silhouettes with long or knee-length dresses in straight or A- line are edged with overlaid polychrome stripes, open or in relief, that enhance and embellish the necklines like tribal ornaments.

Unusual shades ranging from bright red to orange and yellow, from pink to lilac, from bright green to mustard and from ultramarine to teal sit side by side with white, dove grey, brown and black.

Long scarves are crossed over the chest and knotted at the back to become cosy shrugs over dresses. Sandal booties, as flat as socks, have uppers composed of open stripes of multicolor calfskin.

There are sandals with double criss-cross bands and platforms with two-tone stripes. These are alternated with Exclusive Converse All-Stars in striped and zigzag Missoni fabric.

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Tags: MISSONI, MISSONI SS 2016, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2016

MISSONI SPRING SUMMER 2016 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Missoni S/S 2016

Missoni Men’s S/S 2016 collection is the expressive telling of their itinerant man’s emotional metamorphosis as he journeys through the exhilarating country of India. The senses are awakened, time slowly erodes, culture and tradition delicately reveal themselves, vitality is reinvigorated and conventional, Western manner is abandoned for Eastern, sentimental rousing. Relaxed silhouettes, soft tailoring, featherweight knits and potent hues define this season’s Eastern state of mind.

Delavé linens, cotton crêpes, cottons dyed in natural indigo, and summer wools have been artfully woven and knitted in symbolic, powdery pigments—indigo, emerald, Jodhpur blue, jasper and vermillion underscored by amethyst, turmeric and marigold—establishing a harmonious fusion that venerates Indian textile and pattern work and conjures up imagery of sacred rituals, bustling markets, lush fields, amber deserts and drawn-out sunsets.

This collection focuses on the interweaving of Western functionalism with Eastern adornment and craft. Inspired by the antique, indigo-dying techniques of Jodhpur, Missoni has created an unorthodox denim-like fabric that beautifully ages with wear. The multicolored, irregular-checked Madras, originating in modern-day Chennai and conventionally used for fishermen’s loincloths, has been reinterpreted by Missoni. Customary Gujarati weaving methods have induced this season’s use of ikat-inspired patterns that imaginatively recall the colonial, regatta stripe. These old-world techniques have been masterfully reworked and elaborated on Missoni’s heritage looms in Sumirago and have taken form in a four-pocket field jacket with patchwork sleeve inserts, a five- pocket, Missoni jean, a military-inspired short, a two-piece suit, a double- breasted blazer, a pyjama pant and a mirror-work, embroidered tunic.

This season commemorates Missoni’s first collaboration with the historic luggage maker, Globe-Trotter, which has produced a limited-edition series of artisanal luggage pieces— mini utility case, trolley case and extra-deep suitcase—that have been outfitted in Missoni’s specially-designed, macro knits. Southern California footwear maker, Malibu Sandals, has created two ethnic-inspired, hand-woven sandals in eco-friendly materials that perfectly complete the looks proposed in this season’s main collection as well as Missoni Men’s first, stand-alone swimwear collection. An ongoing collaboration with Converse has yielded a revamped version of their All Star Chuck ’70 using a vibrant, space-dyed, mesh knit which is both breathable and conducive to dynamic exploration.

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Tags: MISSONI, MISSONI SS 2016, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2016

MISSONI FALL WINTER 2015-16 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

KNIT ME UP!

Trompe l’œil marble veining on the body like tattoos. New space-dyed patterns in wide, uneven and blurred bands like television static. Coloured metallic inlaid within the graphic patter of wood and marble. The alluring marquetry of cuts, patterns and textures. Graphics of the materials from postmodern interior design, like works by Richard Artschwager.

These are the markings of the neo-body-conscious Missoni woman for next Winter armed with the dashing and seductive spontaneity of her “deep in knit” ensembles. Tight legging-like trousers combine with one-shoulder knits and deep zippered V necks. Overalls in sheer marbled jersey are worn under metallic mash tank dresses or short tight linear dresses with body-revealing slits.

Soft and enveloping, elastic and versatile, satiny and transparent as a second skin. Long masculine jackets and capes with narrow tuxedo lapels, in which jacquard patterns expand like construction games on horizontal, perpendicular and diagonal levels, transforming the veining and zigzags into something more abstract, spectacular and iconic.

Bands of colour from white to black, from orange to bright red from greens to purple to pastel colours. Space dyeing and zigzags, veined and striped jaquards alternate and interact like the mark of an energetic and playful collection that gives freedom to mix and match.

Illuminated by long and ultralight dangling metal coloures fringes earrings and accessorized with calfskin boots, shoes and sabots with slashed upper and C-shaped heels in resin and metal. Little marbled resin bags feature bands with sides and linings in laminated suede. Large leather bags have two handles and sides in laminated suede.

Mariuccia Casadio

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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, MISSONI, MISSONI FW 2015-16

MISSONI FALL WINTER 2015-16 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Missoni Men’s F/W 2015 collection draws inspiration from the artist, both as muse and expressive force as he travels along the Trans-Siberian-Manchurian rail line; a steel-tracked metaphor of man’s longing for discovery and adventure.

Steadily gaining momentum, our artist sits in idle observance as a melange of imagery swiftly passes before his eyes. The piercing wilderness of Russian, Mongolian and Chinese terrains, indigenous tribes and eclectic cultures blur one into the other and arouse his senses.

Immersed in this epic journey, his noble function is to give form and cohesion to this convergence of unrelenting stimuli and unrestrained emotions. In transit even while standing still, this collection captures the romantic essence of the artist and his experiences, exhibiting a certain painterly dynamism in static motion.

The Missoni man is romantically draped in softly tailored and oversized pieces executed in chunky cashmere, fluid cashmere-silk blends, felted lambswool, feathery, speckled wools and artfully crafted pelage-like yarns that luxuriously weather the Siberian climate while respecting the traditional fibers of the regions.

Somber hues of black, forest green, auburn, mineral brown, claret camel, ink and pewter reflect the passing landscape of imposing mountains, wild rivers, thick forests, and lush fields while strokes of bright amber, bamboo green, poppy red, Prussian blue and cornflower mimic the random spattering of distant villages and the colorful and graphic dress of their inhabitants.

Key elements to this season’s collection include: double-breasted coats, degradè-checked suits and oversized, loom-knit coats that have been wefted with either space-dyed tape to achieve an ikat effect or compact, wool-boucle yarn for a toweling effect—all created on Missoni’s exclusive, heritage looms in Sumirago; plaid, cashmere shirts that liken artists’ smocks and customary, regional tunics; macro, shawl-neck cardigans, realized in chunky, space-dyed cashmere, that resemble traditional robes worn in Central Asia; reversible, cashmere travel suits; and degradè, speckled wool/mohair hand-knits.

Sporadic flourishes of embroidered flowers can be found on many of the pieces throughout the collection that, from afar, liken haphazard paint splashes and, up close, bear a resemblance to the artistically elaborate embellishments traditionally found on regionally native garments. These irregularly-placed embroideries have also been applied to suede boots that finish each look to perfection.

This season once again welcomes the collaborative efforts of Missoni and Converse with a silk sports boot that incorporates an elasticated cashmere sock.

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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2015-16, MISSONI, MISSONI FW 2015-16