Sobriety, and the odd surprise
Silhouettes grow longer, both in overcoats and in evening dresses, with a mysterious, priestly look (like the long icon-dresses emerging from the shadowy
background of a Piero Pizzi Cannella painting), and certainly suave with their silks and laminates. But all seriousness is soon contradicted by the long splits that reveal the entire length of the leg with each step; by top-stitching borrowed from a more casual wardrobe; by cheeky Mongolian fur shoulders on necklines (o waistcoats); by feisty leather or neoprene bodices; or by a single leather shoulder strap supporting an entire draping.
Shoulders are large and slightly raised (not only in jackets and overcoats, but even in a sheath dress), emphasizing the otherwise close-fitting silhouette, which is further tightened by leather strap harnesses, borrowed from certain types of work clothes; contrasting top-stitching and protective padding give garments a thickness feel, as if they were sculpted.
Cuts are carefully designed to follow the body’s anatomy. Contrasting inverted pleats take us by surprise, even in certain pants.
Other close-fitting trousers feature a low crotch, but there are also some glossy coated tight black jeans. Whimsical leather shoulders on a draped silk dress or on oversized knitwear in kid mohair; snug poncho-scarves; not to be missed is the gold lamé pant suit, a triumph of horizontal plissés.
Materials: this winter’s denim features contrasting top-stitching, ennobled by combining it with cashmere. Wools. Plenty of Mongolian fur in sleeves, gaiters, collars, shoulders, shrugs and even bags. Kid mohair, lamé, viscose, knitwear with fisherman’s ribbing. Silk, cady, georgette, chiffon, beads. Brown leather, neoprene. Animalier inlaying with cartoon-style tigers and panthers (also found in costume jewelery).
Golden accessories (pochettes, sandals, half boots…).
The soundtrack for the fashion show includes a tribute to the memory of the great Whitney Houston, a homage to this beautiful and talented singer and actress who, as it happens, loved to wear Krizia.
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, KRIZIA, KRIZIA F/W 2012-13, KRIZIA FALL WINTER 2012-2013
Sun, February 26 2012 » Fashion Blog
Scent Allure
Indulge in the enchanting allure of sensuous scent and shimmer in eternal radiance.
Experience the Anteprima’s join the vivre exuberance. Be mesmerized by hidden sequins, muted jacquard and all that demurely glitters, echoing a sinuous expression of understated lavishness.
A season dominated by cropped, voluminous, textured knit, pairing with high waist pencil skirts creating a layered, relaxed and elongated silhouette.
Reinterpret the proportion with sculpted forms, asymmetric shapes and irregular hems in a fluid and ultra feminine mannerism.
Merging a wide array of luxurious yet contrasting materials, in lustrous silk, rich brocades, lush cashmere, voile like alpaca , chunky wool and lurex jacquard, emphasizing the notion of nonchalant decadence, echoing the contrast in your daily life.
Palettes are rich, sensual and autumnal, frolic in green, gold, white and a glimpse of silver.
Sober and refined shoes play on light and dark, moll and shine materials with intricate detail.
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Tags: ANTEPRIMA, ANTEPRIMA F/W 2012-13, ANTEPRIMA FALL WINTER 2012-2013, BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13
Sat, February 25 2012 » Fashion Blog
Fairy tale, fear tailoring. A metropolitan fable with a dark mood.
Downtown New York covered with imaginary snow. A frosted paradise populated with the heroines of Tim Burton’s movies.
Mysterious. Frozen. Damned. Wearing the new alchemic coolness designed by Alessia Giacobino for Jo No Fui fw 2012-13 collection.
Techno-couture fabrics and a sporty spirit. “It’s a Ski-Chic world reviewed with a ‘Noir’ take, thought for intense figures like Dakota fanning or Lana del Rey,” comments the designer.
Coat-dresses in quilted chevron. Zippers closing the sleeves of shifts. Very active mirrored leather. Astrakhan fur creating ice-queen collars.
A game of volumes. Pleats over puff-skirts worn with felted men’s sweaters, taffeta dresses and blouses inspired by windbreakers, frozen macro-ruffles on the side of shifts.
Constructions and anatomical inlays brighten the knitwear up with contrasting elements. The peak comes with fur stitch angora and mohair with lurex bands, hues ranging from technical black to bronze through fuchsia and bright-green. Like an aurora borealis.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, JO NO FUI, JO NO FUI F/W 2012-13, JO NO FUI FALL WINTER 2012-2013
Sat, February 25 2012 » Fashion Blog
The worlds of Hampshire, England, and eighteenth century Venice collide in an equestrian dimension – this is the realm of inspiration for the upcoming Ermanno Scervino Fall/Winter Collection. Statuesque dimensions merge with super feminine elements, making the waistline this collection’s key element.
Egg shapes, frock-coats, tulip shapes are the new forms that cinch the waist and trace the torso, offering us dresses, quilted jackets, overcoats and jackets in crêpe, plunge nappa leather and double-faced wool – faced with neoprene – with a tailored fit characterized by a soft shoulder and pronounced collars.
Macramé reigns on coats and jackets for next winter, paired with maxi-houndstooth crêpe, or with felt and then given a worn look. It also is needlepunched in soft mohair shirts or appears in easy-to-wear dresses or shrug jackets.
Mixed light grey and anthracite-grey flannel bodices and bustiers pair with hip-hugging knee-length skirts or cropped boiled wool sport jackets and become the alternative to crocheted oversized pullovers and chiffon or silk cloqué blouses with built-in bustier.
Parkas turn up with fur stitch, and when they appear in men’s fabrics, are embellished with grey/off-white jacquard knit insets. The detailing and fabric of the uniforms, revamped through tailored lines and the application of fur, express military style in the language of couture. Leopard print fur with the application of knitting for shrug jackets and overshirt.
Evening
Velvet and play of organza layers for the bustier minidresses. Long dresses with lace or lace/sequin transparencies.
Accessories
Gold and palladium rock star jewelry.
Stretch leather calf-boots, pumps, sandals and wedges in iridescent velvet.
Worn gold lamé paired with macramé for boots and bags. New take on the Faubourg bag with crocheting and warp knit.
Colors
Camel, brown, black, the shades of green, nude and midnight blue.
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2012-13, ERMANNO SCERVINO FALL WINTER 2012-2013, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13
Sat, February 25 2012 » Fashion Blog
Party esprit
The Fall/Winter collection is a cocktail of eastern folk, 40’s/70’s inspiration garments with a touch of surrealism.
Outerwear and sport-couture garments, like the snorkel, in technical fabrics decorated and coupled with elegant cocktail and evening dresses with a rétro, upper-class feel.
A play-on Gordon Matta-Clark style portholes creates unexpected openings and invisible groove fastenings which reveal the collection’s tailoring wisdom.
Appliqué and neo-liberty decorations for the small technical coat and the folk-style husky, both of them reversible with double colour and embroidery effect.
Embroideries made with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS and appliqué embroidered with carpet stitch graphics give these garments the value of a unique, single piece. The colour palette is a harmony of instinct: pure and vibrant tones ranging from electric and thick blue to poudre and army green. A measured touch of white and black along with thin, contrasting-colour lines which follow the shapes and define the lines enhancing the silhouette.
Surrealistic inspiration and craftsmanship details for the accessories collection. Elegant “milliner” hats are strictly hand-made: from cotillon models to veils on hairbands ending with a fur coppola cap. Footwear include day and evening pumps with off-white, asymmetric profiles and evening sandals with a single maxi felt bow.
A famed quotation of the Palazzo Pyjamas, made in animalier Jacquard pays homage to Irene Galitzine’s icon style.
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, SERGIO ZAMBON, SERGIO ZAMBON FALL WINTER 2012-2013, SERGIO ZAMBON FW 2012-13
Fri, February 24 2012 » Fashion Blog
Changing roles, role play, an “à la garçonne” disposition.
She’s the Paola Frani F/W 12-13 tomboy.
The ladylike look can be seen in many aspects. The positive and negative sides of a tailor-made style. She has a clean, super-sophisticated silhouette: her allure, played out using masculine, has all the charm of ambiguity.
High waist trousers and ultra-fine pussy-bow blouses, tops with plunging necklines under sartorial jackets, cut out star shapes of masculine pinstripe jersey on ultra-tight dresses. Strong dualism and contrast: the strongest, black & white, can be seen on the interwoven lame’ of the mink jacket and the dappled fox fur.
Bright, Fauves-inspired ranges of color like sangria, which becomes rarefied on the silk georgette blouse, whilst ink blue becomes eclectic on the silk gazar tailored piece with fur detail. Neutral colors, like powder, exalt the nude-effect of glitter georgette while the flimsy gold micro nebula and there are gold leather profiles on the anatomical cuts of the diagonal black dress. Black & Gold.
Gold belts at the waist provide metallic flashes of light. The silk dress width sequins and the long Chantilly lace dress underline the more feminine and veiled part of this neo-tomboy. The neo-deco intarsia of powder silk, teal and black sequins reinterpret the very codes of Art Déco.
Fur desire: furs, ranging from faux raccoon to kid lambskin, are the very leitmotif of the collection and cover coats, cloaks and maxi-gilets. Napa leather in tone-on-tone stripes is used for compact jersey pieces.
Women play with masculine clothes and ironically, become more seductive.
Victor, Victoria!
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, PAOLA FRANI, PAOLA FRANI FALL WINTER 2012-2013, PAOLA FRANI FW 2012-13
Fri, February 24 2012 » Fashion Blog
For the Simonetta Ravizza Fall/Winter Collection 2012-2013, haute couture is where exclusive tradition meets state of the art technology.
Featuring fabulous yet versatile furs and time less, impalpable dreams, the collection is a complex and refined exercise in the duality of style and more.
In the fur segment, Simonetta wanted to combine valuable techniques such as the most classic and virtuosic stranding process with a range of innovative, rough, dynamic and futurist materials.
Full of contrasts and antinomies, the result is a specular and original, aesthetic interpretation primarily expressed through the autonomous and unifying color of black that is offset by only a few splashes of shades of white, it is an unusual blend of textures, lines and consistencies.
Light leather filleted from the inside and superb furs such as mink, fox, and ermine as light and as soft as velvet are paired up with the hard and almost metallic contemporary energy of neoprene, cloth, and boucle fabric.
Lightness encourages the use of striking, sleek geometric lines, straight, cocoon-like, or slightly padded silhouettes, and exquisite cuts reminiscent of the golden age of French and Italian couture of the fifties and sixties.
Simonetta Ravizza has created a total look from top to bottom that is perfect for a lunch or dinner in the city: pretty little black dresses that are sexy and practical, the idea outfit for today’s multifaceted woman and her busy day, at work or play.
The are also neoprene mini-dress with fur trim that reconfirm the same concept from a different perspective, which is the duality that characterizes the entire collection.
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, SIMONETTA RAVIZZA, SIMONETTA RAVIZZA FALL WINTER 2012-2013, SIMONETTA RAVIZZA FW 2012-13
Fri, February 24 2012 » Fashion Blog
Grandeur en plein air.
A newly quiet sense of excess with a charming flair for paradox. The freeing sensation of the unforeseen slipping into, upsetting an impeccable protocol. Alessandro Dell’Acqua plays with contradictions, explores the power of unheard-of connections. He rediscovers the (maybe forgotten) thrill of having pure fashion fun, using clothes to create iconographic ideas and images in counterpoint.
With a light radical spirit, he introduces sedition into staid everyday life, interpreting the quotidian yet precious side of an imaginary regality. He pairs the tweed shirt with a jewel-embroidered melton skirt; cinches the waist of a multicolor-paillette-encrusted dress with a rough masculine belt; sets cabochons on gardening gloves.
Quite surprisingly, shapes and fabrics take on roles contrary to the usual: jacketings define shirts to match with long lavish skirts; a faux work overalls-outfit is made from gorgeous duchesse; the close-knit sweater offsets the semi sheer triple organza skirt; tweed and satin make for ambivalent additions on the sporty blouson.
While a sense of reserve may predominate, here and there bursts of sensuality suddenly rearrange the situation: it’s the inviting glimpse of a zip, possibly a mere peek at the slip under the velvet macramé dress, or the allure of a blouse with a long-lost vintage loveliness.
Accessories include velvet&mirror high heel shoes, clutch-style iPad cases complete with surreal trompe l’oeil hands, haircombs as if bits and pieces of a crown.
Materials rich in texture: mannish tweeds, silk duchesse, velvet macramé, triple organza. A smooth palette of eloquent shades: black, wine red, black green, melange brown, sage green, plus nude and camel beige tones.
A total rejection of pre-concepts on the mix&match front. A liberating experience in the form of collage.
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, N°21, N°21 FALL WINTER 2012-2013, N°21 FW 2012-13
Sat, February 18 2012 » Fashion Blog
