Wed, March 8 2017 » Fashion Blog
JOHN VARVATOS FALL WINTER 2017-18 MEN’S COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
“Wild at Heart”
The urban romantic man, mused on the duality of effortless elegance, is brought center stage in this Fall/Winter 2017 Collection to reveal his most mysterious and inscrutable traits. Initiated down the runway is a nonchalant conceptualization of styles embodying both a rich history and an ever-evolving present. As the story builds, these characteristics become increasingly more transcendent, diverse and complex. The “Wild at Heart” lineup reflects a consistent penchant for old-time craftsmanship and perfectly- reckless demeanors, intensifying a profound sense of adventurousness that shows no sign of being tamed.
The result is a repertoire of refined-rebellion, translated through a sartorial composite of archetypal styles undone by subversive punctuations. Supple leathers, exotic animal- inspired fur finishes and washed velvets demand a major impact, accompanied by a propensity towards the inner-rebel with interior stylistic features escaping from within — shearlings turned inside out and exposed leopard print linings unveil an enigmatic new sentiment.
The collection exploits these traits in an array of unexpected textures and treatments, alongside luxurious fabrics and pristine tailoring. Dandyism details are showcased throughout, glinting in washed velvets from under collars and fine trimmings. Hand-burnished leathers, hand- painted treatments and exotic animal finishes are enlivened by a rich color spectrum — from classic black to pearl gray and charcoal tones, as well as officer’s blue, vicuna, chocolate, camel and dark olive.
Coats dominate this season in a cascade of impactful finishes and thoughtfully- constructed weights, creating an array of intelligently layered ensembles. An alpaca-wool blend, single-button black coat with a velvet shawl collar is styled over a knit dickie and stretch leather pants, adding a darkly-elegant edge to a downtown look. In recognition of the aforementioned rebel self, a shearling coat is rendered inside-out, revealing a smooth interior and a shaggy exterior, which is further amplified by a defiantly long-haired fur appearance. The spotlight on interiors continues in a lusciously reinterpreted hooded parka that’s done in olive-hued washed velvet with boldly exposed leopard print lining.
The Wild at Heart vernacular goes full force in animal-inspired motifs and standout leathers. A striking lynx print calfskin builds vibrancy in an asymmetrical biker jacket, followed- up by a leopard print, rock and roll-esque top coat. Hand-stained, pony finish calfskin redefines the go-to moto silhouette, leading into a double-breasted wool and alpaca- blend jacket featuring a woven and brushed leopard print finish. Invigorating patterns are often complemented by non- restrictive stretch leather pants in smooth or dimensional two- tone suede finishes.
Tonal stripes expose an interesting focus on juxtaposed fabrics, as seen in a cardigan and crewneck sweater of a tactile chenille and silk-mix. Textured shadow stripes make an appearance on an all-black alpaca, wool and cashmere coat, venturing also into an indigo- hued style accentuated with pleated, self-fabricated striping. An artisanal painting technique gives seasonal coats and jackets a new multi-dimensional look, creating a hand-painted striped effect with both subtle and defined appearances — ensuring ultimate softness without the stiffness typically associated with painted applique.
Vintage-inspirations lend themselves to a single breasted, mixed-striped sport coat in blue hues worn atop a solid multi-button vest with irregular herringbone-striped pants. Double-breasted jackets are defined by antique brass buttons on a narrow button stance, a remarkable stylization that ensures form when worn properly buttoned or more casually opened — nodding to the collection’s penchant for day-or-night pieces. A classic wool and cashmere-blend fair isle sweater is distorted and brushed, creating a bursting pattern of both disruptive and artisan qualities.
Tapping into a host of hand-finishes, washes and burnishing, footwear cultivates an individuality in concept and construction. Emerging this season is a fresh narrow-toed silhouette featuring statement zips and a unique kiltie adorning, which is easily removable for a keen sense of personalization. Key bags of the season include a calf hair lynx print messenger and slouchy day bag accentuated with supple leather straps and antiqued brass zips. Veritable bandanas and scarves are spun in lightweight modals, silks and wools, and velvets tipped with elongated fringed edges. Worn with a relaxed drape, a single knot or loosely tied to resemble a charming ascot-like effect, this diverse selection of scarves and bandanas brings a touch of poetic verve to even the most audacious looks.
Emphasized in texture and character, the Fall/Winter 2017 collection gives the idea of nonchalant cool with an uncompromising devotion to elegance and boldness. A personality driven by free-thinking sensibilities and a refusal to become content with the norm. From statement animal-inspired finishes to dandyism details and razor-sharp silhouettes, runway looks march to the beat of their own drum while maintaining a connected mutability for layering and styling — proving the modern man’s heart does indeed beat wild.
Tue, March 7 2017 » Fashion Blog
JOHN VARVATOS SPRING SUMMER 2015 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
A day at the opera. This is how John Varvatos describes his Spring/Summer 2015 collection, alluding to Queen’s iconic record “A Night at the Opera.”
“I wanted to take formal ideas inspired by evening pieces and approach them with a casual attitude for the day time, exploring a new idea of youthful and sexy elegance,” says the designer.
“I mixed classic sensibility and a loose, romantic attitude. The idea of bringing evening to the day is explored by introducing formal, in a non-literal and quite modern way.”
“The image is elegant, while at the same time romantic: crinkles, washed suede and hand-made rough accessories draw a very chic figure. The result is a young and energetic new way of dressing during the day, drawn from the formality of evening-wear.”
The collection is characterized by a smooth and dressy allure, dominated by an alternation between a loose attitude and refined, yet confident lines.
A yearning for relaxed elegance pervades most of the outfits that are extraordinarily light in weight and feel: proper cuts and expert tailoring create the idea of a romantic attitude through fabrics that have been sophisticatedly degradé woven and coated, for a contemporary naturalness.
The silhouette is stylishly well defined, yet constantly comfortable, with a twist: coated and waxed linen cutaway jackets are paired with slim trousers to complete a nonchalantly proper shape.
The confident, yet comfortable cutaway construction is emphasized by inner wire that allows one to shape the collar. Flawless jacquard wool/silk suits are modernized in lightness, through unique finishing for a refined and innovative construction.
The rigor of evening tradition opens up to informal possibilities. Elements of man’s evening wardrobe are interpreted in personal views: tuxedo jackets get a lived-in patina with a shifting degradé effect that looks printed, but is actually woven.
Trousers add a contemporary feel to the look: dress pants, as well as, slim fitting jeans draw an energetic figure. The play on opposites is resolute: coated and waxed waist coasts and vests, worn under suits and cutaways, give a visually strong silhouette.
Stylish and sensual tuxedos, as well as sleek three piece suits express a contemporary and confident vibe, and are invariably worn with tank tops and long, degradé effect silk scarves replacing shirts and neck-ties.
An embossed snakeskin motorcycle jacket punctuates the collection with an edge that is synonymous with a rock “n roll sensibility. A tactile and soft jacket gets a sweater look through linen and metal for a touch of sensual sophistication.
The play of refinement and ease, mixing day and evening, is highlighted by proper details: zippers stand out on masculine trousers; bone buttons enrich jackets to punctuate the nonchalantly elegant figure.
Meticulous attention to cut and detail go hand-in-hand with research on patterns. The play of textures completes the idea of a return to elegance with a quintessential dash of toughness and youth.
Style, line and function come together in a harmony of fine materials and masterful craftsmanship. The color palette is understated and sophisticated: from off-white to a myriad of grey shades, to khaki and black.
The color wheel is highlighted by flashes of russet and military green. Fabrics and yarns are soft, yet roughly lived in, intense and tactile: coated and printed linen, cotton, washed suede, brushed vacchetta and embossed snakeskin.
Accessories include supple, contemporary, hand dyed brushed leather boots with canvas and metal detail, laceless studded wingtips. Natural vacchetta, or embossed snakeskin totes and bags are enriched with artisanal touches such as coated weaves and exposed stitching.
Calfskin suspenders with metal details and new timeless sunglasses complete the masculine look.
Thu, September 11 2014 » Fashion Blog
JOHN VARVATOS FALL WINTER 2014 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
“I wanted to sprinkle a little magic dust throughout the clothes in this collection, highlighting the idea of sartorial daring and masculine confidence that is integral to my vision, bringing it a new level – says John Varvatos – While working with KISS on my new advertising campaign, I was taken by how much everybody, regardless of their age, loves them.
For me, it is the idea of the superhero, a man in disguise with incredible powers, that makes the KISS myth so enduring and appealing, and it’s exactly that mindset that I wanted to explore, adding a dash of fantasy to my work while keeping tailored finesse and elegance high on the agenda. The result is energetic and strong, for a confident man who dares.”
The collection is characterized by movements that create a revolving sense of surprise. The silhouette is slim and elegant. Jacquard silk tuxedo jackets are worn with stretch leather jeans; double breasted flannel suits sport heather silk lapels, for a new vision of the tuxedo. Craft is hidden from intruding gazes, like a precious quality: embroidery under the collar of a jacket, tonal jacquards on knitwear.
Innovative weaving and expert treatments give fabric a feather-like, animal quality on tailored coats. The shimmering quality of metal adds toughness and a shine: embossed silver calfskin is used on the blouson, or as an armor patch on zip-up jackets that draw a superhuman figure; silver sleeves contrast the cream body of a motorbike jacket.
Silver toggle closures punctuate the outerwear pieces as visual marks. A fluid coat made of washed calfskin and wool has a certain severity, while cut-out fabric feathers swarm on the shoulders of the slim coat, making it ready for the stage. This succession of contrasts finally settles on the winter whites of double breasted coats, cutaway suits and shearling coats with a refined and martial allure.
The color palette is nightly and shimmering, with sudden surprises. Black, charcoal, silver, grey, either matte or metallic, give way to heather and light grey and finally open up to creamy white. Fabrics are masculine, with a tactile quality: brushed wools, flannel, washed calfskin, feather-effect weaves, silk and cashmere yarns.
Accessories include massive boots with thick soles, brushed leather boots with a shimmering effect, black lace-ups edged in white. Portfolio bags sport silver toggle closures, while oversized totes are painstakingly crafted. Modified top hats and sterling silver jewels punctuate the looks.
Tue, March 4 2014 » Fashion Blog
JOHN VARVATOS SPRING SUMMER 2013 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
The silhouette is precise, but smoothed around the edges. Double-breasted jackets are paired with full or slightly flared pants, drawing a masculine, sensual line.
There is an appreciation of all the little details that are integral to the ritual of dressing up: waistcoats are worn under suits and coats as a defining layer; shirt collars closed with tie bars are invariably paired with a necktie; straw hats with a wide brim complete most outfits.
Masculine patterns in graphic black & white create a light crinkle: stripes of different width and small textural dots add a layer of visual friction.
The alternation and amalgamation of ease and elegance, day and night is a constant shifting of codes: tuxedo bands, done in cotton, land on day trousers; a zipper rims the waistband of a pair of dress pants; black jackets sport white lapels; satin ribbons replace buttons and hooks on a coat. Double-breasted and cutaway create elegant lines in movement.
The colour palette is classic, with unexpected accents: white, military green, grey, black, touches of red. Fabrics are precious, yet deliberately rough and intensely tactile: linen, cotton, cotton-metal, silk-linen, double jersey.
Accessories include straw hats with a satin band, lace-up brogues in canvas and hand-treated leather, wingtips, varnished canvas boots. Bags add an urban twist: leather totes with studded details, canvas and leather satchels, leather duffels with a linen effect.
A vision of elegance that is roughly perfect and classically imperfect. John Varvatos’ signature rock n’ roll is still there: it is an attitude.
Thu, September 13 2012 » Fashion Blog
JOHN VARVATOS MEN’S COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2012 – MILANO FASHION WEEK
For Fall/Winter 2012 Collection John Varvatos was inspired by the city of New York, with its seamless juxtaposition of the old and the new: a place where Central Park and the Guggenheim, the Chrysler building and the Statue of Liberty melt into one, creating a unique urban texture.
Silhouette softly precise. The look is clean and nonchalant, elegant and easy. The accent is on single pieces as building blocks of the outfits: trademark layering leaves way to a restrained take on dressing up that is soulful as opposed to stark.
Jackets and outerwear textured and light. Reverse cutaway jackets and coats with leather details completely devoid of any filling create a smooth, dynamic line. Short coats have the easy softness of a knit, but are in fact tailored. Suit jackets, either single or double breasted, button up asymmetrically, with a sophisticated effect. Subtle details alter the aspect of wardrobe staples: a zipper running along the raglan of a trench coat sleeve, grommets on sleeve cuffs, a leather multi wrap belt on the pea coat. Vest add a gentlemanly touch.
Knitwear chunky yet weightless. Knitwear is the key element of the pure and individual look. Sweaters turn into a way of being and are used either as outerwear or not: cold-dyed wool and cashmere jumpers and zippered coats, tricot short coats in mixes of fine and chunky yarns, hombre alpaca sweaters; light knitted jackets in morphing patterns.
Trousers relaxed and easy. Tailored pants have a new line: the articulated knee and a small tab at the hem allows them to be worn easily inside or outside of boots.
Leather roughly precious. Long or curly haired burnished shearling is used for short coats and vest worn on top suits. Brushed calfskin blusons with a pony skin effect have a precise, militaristic allure.
Shirts elongated and elegant. Mean to be worn outside of trousers, even with suits and vest, wing collared shirts are longer on the front, with a reverse cutaway effect, creating a soulful counterpoint to the look.
Wed, January 25 2012 » Fashion Blog
JOHN VARVATOS SPRING SUMMER 2012 – MILANO FASHION WEEK
For Spring/Summer 2012 Collection John Varvatos was inspired by a light, fresh and romantic style. This style was typical of several bands from the seventies including The Rolling Stones, Led Zeppelin and The Who.
The look is soft, nonchalant. Outerwear, tailored pieces, long shirts and knitwear move softly around the body. Nothing is tight; fluid lines and layering suggest a take on style that is both poetic and individual.
Cutaway jackets, fencing-inspired blousons, long dusters and 3/4 length summer coats are precisely-cut, but the absence of linings translate into a new, smooth line.
Lacing detail on collarless coats adds both ease and movement; pin closures and studs in place of sleeve buttons give an unexpected twist. Vest add another layer of ease, with a gentlemanly touch. Had painted roses on suits and jackets are unexpectedly romantic, yet manly.
Shirts meant to be worn outside of trousers as the base of the layered silhouette, collarless painter shirts are pivotal to the whole look. Light but crisp, they create soft contrast when worm underneath the tailored pieces. Tailored pants caress the leg without being body-consciuos.
Fabrics weightless and crisp, colors pure and serene, shades of grey: stone, pearl, dove, steel. Earthy notes of sand, khaki, olive, pure white, a touch of black.
Tue, July 5 2011 » Fashion Blog
