Sun, February 17 2019 » Fashion Blog
ROKSANDA FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – LONDON FASHION WEEK
For Autumn Winter 2019, Roksanda commissions a bespoke installation to cement her long term relationship with art collective Troika. An alternate reality for the their sculpture ‘Borrowed Light’, both Troika’s innovative space and Roksanda’s clothes appear to address obvious subject matter; colour, volume, texture, movement. However, each explores a deeper narrative, one centred around the concept of perception and duality, indivisible entities and experiences.
Inspiration infiltrates too from architecture, this time from Paul Rudolph’s brutalist masses of textured concrete and car park tower trellis’. With this exploration of tension and perception Roksanda tells her story yet again through the beauty of opposites; strength and softness, beauty and shelter, for an intricate yet booming recalibration of femininity.
This season, tailoring is a tactile combination of wool and cashmere blends, rich ochre quilting and matlassé cut into long and languid coats, slashed strictly at the sides to reveal saturated linings. Relaxed melange jersey appears in luxurious day dressing, including draped buttonless jackets closed simply with fine leather belts that wrap twice around the waist.
Utalitarian outerwear is spliced and colour blocked, combining wools, compact taffeta and cotton, partially quilted, while contrasting zips and metal snaps reveal hidden layers. Quilting plays an important part in the collections blueprints; padded scarves are colour blocked and printed, creating a voluminous yet softer accent to the neat tailored jackets which sit layered beneath.
Dramatic, feminine yet powerful dress silhouettes in richly coloured taffetta’s; heliotrope, tobacco and ochre are used to play on the perception of volume and sculpture. At the other end of Roksanda’s infinite spectrum, pleated silk bias cuts are rendered closer to the body, detailed with loose and softly tied satin bows. Carefully crafted details include tucked and frilled hems, velvet bows and Pierrot collars.
Roksanda’s graphic interpretations of hard concrete structures are either layered with soft projections of her own delicate dancer, or scaled up to create a bold and confident counterpart. Optic white taffeta enhances crisp primary colours is layered with an ultra-light air organza layer to create a soft fluidity. A luxurious oyster duchess base is flip reversed to reveal a hidden yet highly saturated version, while transparent yarns are woven to reflect light and give the perception of pure liquidity. Just as Troika’s colourful strips present themselves on photographic film, Roksanda’s overlap technique mimics a lense out-of-focus, reality blurred, but revealing a life in full yet transparent technicolor.
Heavy as a building block, light as a feather. Embroidery features micro cut beads and organza shapes, crafted around feather print motifs, all pale dyed and organically placed. Dramatic and dreamy, hand dyed ostrich feathers are gathered, trapped in mounds on shoulders, collars and cuffs. They disperse with movement across their garments, blown apart by kinetic air onto earrings and jewellery. Elsewhere, industrial metal tubes are bent into miniature sculptures, hand finished with enamel paint to create additional building blocks; bracelets and necklaces.
Modernist details and craftsmanship continue in Roksanda’s bag range as the new season introduces the ‘Flat bag’ in Peony, Desert Sand, Tobacco, Porcelain and Navy. Roksanda’s cubist ‘box bag’ appears too in Navy, Mikado and Heliotrope.
Shoes in collaboration with Malone Souliers are inspired by a 70’s aesthetic; rubberised leather boots with soft satin legs in cinnamon, tobacco and oyster. Loafers with hand stitched seam details appear in nappa and suede, while bright primary blue, black and navy satin evening slippers are adorned with delicate bows.
Colours
Heliotrope, Porcelain, Mikado, Cloud, Lemonade, Cipria, Vermillion, Lime, Pear, Sage, Spearmint, Spruce, Aegean, Tobacco, Orchid, Cinnamon, Rosewood, Ebony, Midnight, Oyster, Azalea, Tumeric
Fabrics
Mattelassé Coating, Wool Alpaca Coating, Technical Duchess, Zibeline Wool Coating, Wool Mouline Jersey, Wool Cashmere Coating, Silk Satins, Silk Twill Organzas, Taffeta.
Sat, February 16 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 16 2019 » Fashion Blog
BURBERRY FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – LONDON FASHION WEEK
‘TEMPEST’
‘I have been thinking a lot about England as a country of contrasts, from the structured to the rebellious and free, and I wanted to celebrate how these elements coexist. My first season for Burberry was about starting to develop my alphabet for the house, it was about identifying new letters and new codes. And now, I’m starting to put these letters together to begin writing my book here, to form the first chapter for a new era at Burberry.’
Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer
THE COLLECTION
Called ‘Tempest’, Riccardo Tisci’s Autumn/Winter 2019 collection for Burberry takes inspiration from the contrasts in British culture and weather, from the structured to the rebellious and free, and further develops the codes and cues first set out in his debut collection for the fashion house last year. The collection continues to evolve around the four characters that are becoming integral to this house – the girl, the boy, the lady and the gentleman. Presented in four parts, the collection was revealed at a new show venue in-between two contrasting bespoke show environments within the Tate Modern Tanks at 5PM on 17 February.
GIRL AND BOY
For women: Shearling and faux fur coats, off-the-shoulder corset tops, double-waist tailored trousers and lace-detail slip dresses styled with Chelsea boots and sneakers with rubber oversoles. For men: A paneled trench, a puffer duffle, a parka in shearling and quilts. Vintage check in bold patchworks with animal print accents and tape details. Track pants refreshed in plonge leather. Sneakers with neoprene socks.
LADY AND GENTLEMAN
For women: Deconstructed trenches, embellished car coats, draped wool cashmere ponchos. Sharp tailoring, cinched dresses, pleated skirts and printed shirts. Pumps, boots and kitten heels, with fringing and hand-applied crystals. For men: Striped wool duffle coats, quilted gilets over tailored outerwear. English-fit suits, pleated trousers, reconstructed boat-neck knitwear and silk-jersey shirts. Rubber-cap-toe brogues and Chelsea boots.
EVENINGWEAR
A series of delicately draped evening dresses, in black, white and beige.
ACCESSORIES
Key shapes introduced by Riccardo for his debut evolve for Autumn/Winter 2019. The TB Bag returns in new iterations. The Society is updated in extra-large and portrait styles for men. Introducing Title, our new refined silhouette defined with a triple-stud detail.
KEY COLOURS
Shades of beige punctuated with green, red, pale blue, orange, brown and black. Tonal layers feature an injection of colour.
KEY PRINTS
Vintage check, stripes and the Thomas Burberry Monogram are revisited this season. Nautical references include seascapes, oysters and ropework details.
Sat, February 16 2019 » Fashion Blog
Thu, February 14 2019 » Fashion Blog
3.1 PHILLIP LIM FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
A wardrobe for her…
Fall 2019 continues to evolve the dialogue with the 3.1 Phillip Lim global woman with underscored intent. A modern, essential wardrobe that continues to explore personal nuance and align contradictions: elevated utility, elegant sportswear, youthful tailoring. This is achieved by playing with silhouette and pushing the confines of expected proportion.
Volume is exaggerated – rounded cocoon coats in double-faced wool, oversized capes with cinched waistbands, and extra wide-legged pants with nipped-in waists and matching belted utility jackets in wool denim. The goal to expand her daily possibilities, while never removing the poetry. She is as ever cool, easy, chic but with renewed purpose – a commitment to sustainability our way.
The philosophy is simple – make less, mean more. Live with intention. Champion community. Acknowledge that we can’t change the world overnight, but we can take small, pragmatic, purposeful steps that ultimately add up. We can keep the human touch, the beauty and artistry of irreplaceable craft, in everything we do. Balance is key – recognizing that we will always have a footprint but offsetting it with small gestures that eventually amount to a grand shift.
-Phillip Lim
This season we celebrate community and have partnered with like-minded brands to realize our vision for a more considered, sustainable future. At 3.1 Phillip Lim, our belief is that sustainability is about balance not perfection. It starts small, with the knowledge that we can do the most good when we hold ourselves, and each other, personally accountable.
Above and beyond, that includes the company we keep. For Fall 2019, we are proud to continue our partnership with The Woolmark Company, the global authority on wool and experts in innovation, sustainability and technology in the Australian Merino industry. With Leigh Miller who finds inspiration in art and nature and created the exceptional jewelry for our show.
With Aveda, a pioneer in championing sustainable, environmentally friendly practices and cruelty-free hair and beauty products. And with @UnframeTheBeauty, a newly launched global beauty brand that works with traditional craftsmen from the Kumano and Nara regions of Japan to make each of their brushes, and is committed to using safe, sustainably-sourced ingredients that are never tested on animals.
Lastly, this season we are humbled to announce that we will go fur-free. Effective immediately, the brand will ban fur and exotic skins in RTW and accessories such as fox, mink, lynx, chinchilla, astrakhan/karakul lamb and exotic skins including python, alligator, crocodile and lizard. We will continue to use leathers and shearling that are understood to be a by-product of the meat trade.
Wed, February 13 2019 » Fashion Blog
JEREMY SCOTT FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
For his Fall/Winter 2019 collection, Jeremy Scott collaborates with the artist Aleksandra Mir who created hand-drawn blown up renderings of tabloid covers straight from the New York Post and New York Daily News. Scott believes that we are mired in the onslaught of sensational and earth-shattering headlines: we are witnesses, victims, and perpetrators of the unending news cycle.
Scott uses this stark and blatant imagery as a rebuttal to our collective obsession with salacious headlines, false scenarios and click bait drama that incite tensions and ultimately divide us – not only in the political sphere, but in pop culture as well. Scott transforms these striking headlines into clothing that mirrors the frenetic hyper overload of breaking news that inundates our daily life.
The Black and White palette further reinforces the graphic nature of the collection, and silhouettes are outlined and defined by the headlines. Soft and fluid vinyl, blazing headlines, is fashioned into trenches and full skirted dresses, superimposing words upon words and creating new meanings.
Fitted bustiers give way to multi layered featherweight tulle skirts – again transparency and layering playing a significant role in the ensemble. Distressed denim and leather are emblazoned with verbiage and Scott takes something as delicate and beautiful as Swarovski crystal mesh and masks this precious material with bold graphics.
He paints the seesawing economy of yesterday in leather, the catastrophes of today in chiffon, tomorrow’s scandals in sequins, silks and tulle, all the while maintaining an aggressive edge to express the wonder and horror of our times.
Wed, February 13 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
KENZO FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
At a time when the movement of peoples and the spread of cross-cultural dialogue marks our daily lives more than ever, our interest in telling personal stories at KENZO has never felt more appropriate. For the Fall-Winter 2019 collection, our focus turned to Humberto’s Chinese-Peruvian heritage – the Tusán people whose ancestors arrived from Guangdong province to settle in Peru in the 19th century. Today they number in the millions, and the diffusion of Asian traditions throughout South America is a palpable force.
This rich and colorful exchange of stories mixes with the contemporary realities of alpine life, as extreme conditions see both men and women layering bright, ethnic textiles with modern tactical garments. In our interpretation, the drama of the Andean colour palette (from Cusco to Machu Picchu) meets piles of fuzzy texture and a touch of Parisian sophistication. Couched in the Ayahuasca dreamscape show set by the artist Pablo Amaringo, this collection invokes discovery and exploration through mind, body, and spirit.
Within the women’s collection, hiking gear has an overt feminine twist, as swirling polar fleece comes tailored and swathes of waterproof nylon are given soft volume and drape. Inspired by the import of rice into Peru, knitwear and recycled raffia pieces feature custom KENZO calligraphy, and an archive ‘Earth’ print returns under the cover of clouds.
Pollera and pencil skirts receive the technical treatment, traced with drawstrings and paired with zipped mock-necks or patch-pocket blouses in tonal ensembles. Papery leather shines in roomy parka and anorak shapes, whilst shaggy jacquard faux-furs create wood print and blanket plaid effects. 5-pocket jean and cropped cargos are cut in winter wools or acid-washed denim.
Menswear takes the road less traveled, keeping in mind the military trappings of early explorers. Transformable all-weather outerwear pieces feature harness collars, reversible mesh linings, and detachable pocket gloves. A membrane coating gives pop tailoring extra bounce, as zip-up polar fleece returns in roomy quilted jogging pants (mimicked elsewhere by luxe striped shearling). Worn with plaid felt overcoats and checkered crew knits, straight canvas trousers zip-off in color-blocked panels. In the same way, a three-pocket bag zips out into backpack, tote, and fanny pack shapes.
Blinking from a resin bijoux ‘eye’ clasp, our new KENZO Tali double flap bag is unveiled for the season in a rainbow of colors and crafted in stamped lizard and faux croc leathers or oval ‘eye’ quilting. Held in the hand, on the shoulder, or worn cross-body, it comes printed with the season’s KENZO rice bag motifs and swings with sunglass cases or shaggy shoulder straps.
For men and women, footwear styles see town and country collide, with laced Inka trekking boots and mesh sneakers lifted on stacked soles. Women’s Lima kitten heels fuse faux fur under plastic, whilst squared boots lace up the calf with a scuba sock insert.
Carol Lim & Humberto Leon
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
Wed, January 30 2019 » Fashion Blog
