Tue, February 26 2019 » Fashion Blog
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
Salvatore Ferragamo© Copyright 2019
“GENERATION”
Family, the cultural continuity between generations, and power – all have been central to the spirit of Salvatore Ferragamo. It is a quiet power that distinguishes the house, a power Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland explore for Autumn/Winter 2019 and figure into the zeitgeist as an antidote to its pervasive unrest. The revelation comes in a kaleidoscopic display of identity and all its nuance: impossible to characterize in one attitude or gesture, their men and women refuse easy definitions and instinctively embrace a politics of togetherness.
Patchworks of suede, nappa, snake and lizard in women’s accessories and ready-to-wear speak to this prevailing notion of multiplicity and allude to Mr. Ferragamo’s ubiquitous multicolor patchwork wedge of 1942. The same symbolic tactic is echoed in archival scarf prints in modern patchwork on silk twill. Fringed cashmere blanket coats, sensual leather robes, sportswear in Japanese technical wool and hand-knit textured sweaters convey a natural, unstudied luxury. The Gancini monogram jacquard, a new signature, visually locates the collection in a place and time without needing to tiredly assert a heritage.
Tailored garments imagined with an outdoor sensibility frame the menswear proposal. Deerskin, corduroy and technical wool gabardine give jackets and outerwear presence and gravitas. Engineered shapes and utilitarian trims are essential features both of design and end-use. The new suit is three-button, soft shouldered, the lapel widened, in traditional British and Italian cloths.
Shoes not only importantly anchor the collection looks; they are the fundamental ingredients of the Ferragamo formula. Sculptural heels appear in bright suedes, nipped-point toe stilettos in satin with hand encrusted rhinestone straps, and pull-on boots in butter calfskin. Nubuck trekking boots and a twist on the classic loafer for men further emphasize the tension between classic and rugged. Handbags in everyday styles are rendered soft and deconstructed in suede and tumbled deerskin or assume singularity as small, handheld objects.
A new creative horizon at Ferragamo begins to come into focus, with a renewed commitment to crafting innovative products for a generation that sees luxury everywhere and nowhere, and for whom inclusion and authenticity rise as beacons of possibility, hope.
Mon, February 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sun, February 24 2019 » Fashion Blog
VERSACE FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
The Women’s Fall-Winter 2019 Collection explores the house’s codes through a new lens. The dichotomy of luxury and grunge is present on the runway, where rich fabrics feature unfinished hems and looks are adorned with signature Safety Pins. The collection is a celebration of Versace iconography, while contrasting styling elements, fabric innovation and an ode to photography deliver multi-dimensional impact.
Key runway looks pay tribute to Versace’s storied relationship with fashion photography, featuring portraits of Donatella Versace by Richard Avedon. These images are reprised in the Fall-Winter Collection thanks to the support of the Richard Avedon Foundation. The American photographer lensed more than 30 campaigns for Versace over the course of 20 years, beginning with the Spring-Summer 1980 Collection. For the launch of the fragrance Blonde, Avedon created portraits of Donatella Versace in his studio in New York on February 3rd, 1995.
The Blonde campaign, and in particular, the associated fragrance, lent further inspiration to the collection where new prints and embroideries showcase the house’s most distinctive perfume bottles. The print innovation continues in Versace’s colorful trademark style, mixing bold hues with house codes and references to art history. Monuments come to life in vivid tones on the Vittoria print through a bright representation of a statue from London’s National Gallery. An explosion of color celebrates the essence of Versace. Barocco-style V’s feature on silks, lurex jacquards and on the house’s new handbag line, Virtus. Taking its name from the Roman deity, Virtus symbolizes strength, courage, and character. A bold symbol of the brand’s aesthetic heritage, the central Barocco V characterizes the bag.
The conflicting natures of luxury and grunge are revealed in the styling and details of the collection. Quintessential Versace hardware elements like the Greek Key and newly embellished Safety Pins are at the core of this juxtaposition. Cashmere knits are destroyed while raw-cut edges on colorful tweeds are overlaid with top-stitched silk bondage straps. Stockings are paired with slip dresses, faux furs are worn with the gold chains, and leather boots are dramatized with hardware buckles.
“Bold women feel free to stay away from what is expected. With this collection, I wanted to show that side of a woman that isn’t afraid to step outside of her comfort zone because she knows that imperfection is the new perfection.”
– Donatella Versace –
Sun, February 24 2019 » Fashion Blog
MARCO DE VINCENZO FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
MY FAVOURITE THINGS
“One of my favorite things in the world is a little ceramic deer from the Forties that I found a few years ago in a small shop. I like it so much, I keep it in a glass case at home: even though it is not precious, it is very precious to me. It’s the same Bambi that I shaped into an invitation to this show. This collection feels very personal: it is filled it with my favorite things. I wanted to celebrate what I like as a designer, what triggers my creativity and makes me love my job. The idea that everything comes together, for instance, even when things are put one next to another for no particular reason but a creative urge. This fateful randomness, which in fact is not randomness, is completely my own, just like the love for lurex, waves, optical motifs; just like the proclivity for macramè, glitter, intensely psychedelic surfaces. I like riffs of the metallic and distorted ladylike. I like velvet and I like a womanly dress, or a very bourgeois ensemble that I twist and turn by way of color, texture or pattern. A touch of kitsch is something I am not afraid of at all. This collection is one hundred percent me, a recollection of the weird and wonderful alphabet of my label, which I launched exactly ten years ago. What is specific and exclusive of this moment is the ease of it all, the pervasive sense of spontaneity. I am feeling light right now. So does my work”.
Marco de Vincenzo
Sun, February 24 2019 » Fashion Blog
ICEBERG FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
Snow White or Evil Queen? Why chose when you can be both suggests Creative Director James Long corrupting the purity of full white looks with cherry blossom punks in Barbara Cartland pink and garments adorned with gems quite possibly from Disney’s mines.
Basket weave jacquards in Royal blue distort garden flowers and logos in texture and shine on knitted cycling shorts and midi-pencils. A stripe shirt dips into the same graphic while a long dress, thigh split with balloon sleeves is tone on tone. An oversized bondage strapped men’s coat with Dopey on the reverse raises smiles even when you are in Off-to-Work-We- Go mode.
White and cream softness in chiffon and brushed fluff Snow White knitwear are made tough with military inspired garter over-skirts and Artic white denim. Clear sunglasses and roomy padded coats for our pure as snow heroine are available for both men and women.
But bite the apple and embrace your dark side. A new take on a pair from the archive ICEBERG bondage trousers with matching jackets cover punkish brushed sweaters and studded crystal strips (based on the guitar strap of PJ Harvey) light up luxurious tricadi tailoring. White shirts have louche rock star studded collars.
The glitzy neon glow of gems and crystals give a Douglas Leigh LED cityscape over black bodysuits, full length dresses and trousers. The evil Queen, hand drawn and knitted sneers at her reflection in the Linda Farrow for ICEBERG Magic Mirror sunglasses.
High shine plasticised chiffon become Siouxsie tight trousers, boots and the shoulders of jackets where knit has been fused with fabric in a process called agugliatura or needling.
Chaotic yet soft styling with pink oversized cardigan dresses and diaphanous fabrics are layered over sporty bodysuits and shorts. While in a puce DB jacket with matching trousers and chiffon shirt you don’t have to wait for your fairy tale ending: you’ve become your very own Prince.
Special guest on the runway the first ICEBERG x Linda Farrow eyewear collection. The collaboration is a classic sporty silhouette that has been playfully printed with ICEBERG’s strong primary colour stripes and logo. Featuring reflective lenses, black rubberised details and a matt white finish paired with a white knit sports strap.
Sun, February 24 2019 » Fashion Blog
BOTTEGA VENETA FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
Bottega Veneta© Copyright 2019
Bottega Veneta’s Fall 2019 collection is a celebration of freedom, self-expression and sensuality. Creative Director Daniel Lee’s first runway show for the house is an exercise in elevated detail, noble materials and energetic silhouette.
While the quiet craft central to Bottega Veneta’s identity is still present, Fall 2019 brings a sharp injection of modernity to traditional technique, turning up the volume. Combining the human hand with technology and process, the result is simultaneously classic and contemporary.
A viewpoint on the house’s Italian origins seen through today’s global lens offers another visible tension – the conspicuous and the refined, high and low, hedonism and intellect. The season’s palette is also a reflection on this discussion, chemical hues and shimmering embellishment meet natural tones and everyday colour.
Presenting a new vocabulary for Bottega Veneta, leather and the house’s Intrecciato weave is reinterpreted and evolved. Polished dresses and layered knitwear pair with armour-like outerwear, sharp tailoring and confident accessories.
Ultimately, the aim of this season’s collection is a simple one, to evoke emotion – pleasure and joy, desire and beauty.
Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
FENDI FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
The FENDI Women’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 Collection is the final Collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld, representing a lifetime of dedication and creation from 1965 until today. In his perpetual search for beauty and innovation, Karl’s commitment to his craft never waned. This Collection embodies that devotion, from the season’s defining sketches to his ultimate FENDI gesture: the romantic trace of a silk foulard. Reflected in a multitude of ideas, each expression is innately and forever his own.
Eternally forward-looking, the silhouette is triumphant in its depth and majestic in its simplicity. Trompe l’oeil – an enduring signature – defines fabrications with an opulent hand, as architectural planes are shot through with an irresistible lightness. Neutral tones lift through pale ivory tulle, warm cognac patent and terracotta calfskin to sublime shades of daffodil, sea green, tangerine and azure. Like petals or plumes, wallpaper prints become textures on cloque, organza and satin.
Drawn from a pagoda shoulder, zipped and double-breasted tailoring is nipped at the waist and threaded with floating bow belts. In cotton poplin and fine leather, pointed shirt collars button high in Karl’s inimitable style. Worn with full pleated trousers, jacket pockets and asymmetric lapels are outlined in a slick shadow play.
Diamond shapes abound in the shifting lines of transparency, pleating and latticework transposed, one over the other, as wrap knife-pleated skirts, monogram tulle bodysuits and laser cut leather outerwear. Designed in 1981, Karl’s curling ‘Karligraphy’ FF logo monogram appears on cabochon buttons and intarsia fur, as high-collared shift dresses whisper softly in diaphanous silk and honeycomb lace.
The FENDI Women’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 Accessories Collection abounds with newness, as the Baguette is transformed in embossed pillow patent, topstitched vegetal leather and a multi-strap utility harness. A spacious metal frame tote in shiny calf or Pequin stripe shearling folds into a clutch, as the Peekaboo echoes the season’s perforated techniques. Square-heeled flats or pointed high-heel boots in shiny neoprene and scrolling knitted neoprene continue the season’s shadow motif with a contrast sole and zipper.
“The bond between Karl Lagerfeld and FENDI is fashion’s longest love story, one that will continue to touch our lives for years to come. I am profoundly saddened by his passing and deeply touched by his constant care and perseverance until the very end. When we called just a few days before the show, his only thoughts were on the richness and beauty of the Collection. It’s a true testament to his character. He shall be so missed.” – Silvia Venturini Fendi
Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
