OFF-WHITE C/O VIRGIL ABLOH FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
Tue, March 5 2019 » Fashion Blog
THOM BROWNE FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
Strictly, playfully. A celebration of a mens tailored sensibility, for women. Tailoring rigor and couture craftsmanship. Severity and frivolity.
In January 2009, Thom Browne introduced his vision to Europe for the first time in Florence during Pitti Uomo with a performance staged at Istitituto di Scienze Militari Aeronautiche. Ten years have passed since. The singular idea that ignited an ongoing quest kept evolving and expanding, maintaining the strictness and the playfulness it originated from. The anniversary is the perfect occurrence to show how much.
The show of 2009 is replicated in 2019, in detail. Up to a point. Men sat at their desks typing in tailored grey suits, then. Women sit at their desk typing, now. What they wear is a playful rumination on that strictly tailored look.
A full wardrobe. Chesterfield coats, jackets, trousers are interpreted in inlays, intarsia, buillon embroidery, satin stitch embroidery on tweeds, checked tweeds, down filled tweeds, shetland wools. Thom Browne’s signature grosgrain tape and duck motifs are played with, extensively. The strict base of the look offers ample room for an exploration of embellishment and couture technique. Playfully, strictly.
This and that. Every full outfit is rendered in trompe l’oeil, for sake of technical prowess. Detail by detail, three dimensional to two dimensional. Strictly, playfully. A masculine sensibility pervades it all, down to the socks, garters, briefcases and brogues. Strictly, playfully.
Tue, March 5 2019 » Fashion Blog
BALENCIAGA FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
In a wardrobe that mixes casual with evening, the real Parisian of today becomes an emblem. Volume, cut, and material represent the inventiveness and tenacity of a typical city local. Patterns and shapes emblemize common daily activities — grocery shopping, commuting via motorbike, and going out after work.
Suspended shapes allow for shoulders to be shifted upwards or for sleeves to be raised above the shoulders. Incognito collars and hoods on coats, long trenches and robes assume anonymity. Dropped or ring-shaped necklines that rest away from the body also redefine the profile.
Hidden or eliminated closures reflect the Parisian trait of opting to wrap a coat and leave a jacket open. Certain dresses, on the other hand, have many closures, modeled after a double-breasted jacket or trench coat worn with nothing underneath.
Atypical materials, too, represent resourceful intentions. A modern interpretation of the cocoon is made with fake shearling, another with a soft, duvet-like outer. Knee-length kick skirts are made with embroidered tweed and fake leather and insignia shirt are actually knitwear. Jackets rework the articulation of biker sleeves for the purpose of volume. Pants are either cropped or left extra long.
Easy Eveningwear encompasses the idea of wearing something all night after a long day, while At-home Outerwear imagines wearing something all day after a long night. Garments and accessories take the idea of house wear outdoors — a kimono-like robe — or they bring oversaturated symbols of tourism to a more intimate level.
Party dressing introduces still more silhouettes. A new evening set consists of a maxi kaftan shirt and maxi kick skirt in moire silk. A new babydoll dress deconstructs a longer style, reattaching the lower half to the bust line and tagging it with the graffiti that happens to someone who fell asleep at a party. A hand- sewn gown is beaded with curled paillettes, falling delicately around the wearer and continuing into a train.
Throughout the collection, new logotypes intersect with older ones, adding to a growing language. Bags and shoes flare and arch in new directions, balancing between dramatic tension and practicality.
Tue, March 5 2019 » Fashion Blog
Mon, March 4 2019 » Fashion Blog
Mon, March 4 2019 » Fashion Blog
Mon, March 4 2019 » Fashion Blog
BALMAIN FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
We don’t praise female trouble-makers nearly enough. Yes, of course, the fashion world adores nonconformists. We’re inspired by the greats that have beautifully rebelled artistically or sartorially. Season after season, we channel the spirit of rockers who have never given a damn and style icons with signature attitudes.
But my runway today celebrates a different, invigorating and new type of rebellious spirit, one adopted by increasing numbers of today’s young women. For inspiration, my team and I look to the self-assured women of my generation, who demand control and are not content to simply push back instead, they revel in pushing forward, (while also pushing every single button along the way).
This new attitude might have had its origins in the recent necessity of donning new defensive armor for battles that we had hoped were already won, but it has rapidly evolved, as our young rebelles grow increasingly aware of their own great power, celebrate their strong voices and demand to be heard.
This collection riffs upon that fresh, fierce resolve, that demand for control and love of bold action. And, just as today’s trouble-makers have shown us, first impressions sometimes fool those who haven’t yet wised up. So, train your eyes look past the feminine and flouncy skirts, the sensual tops and the Easter-egg pastels and focus on the underlying new spirit of this collection.
The tough-girl vibe is sometimes easily spotted and, just as often, cleverly hidden. Examine the expertly quilted leather skirts, for example, and what may at first appear to be a repeating pattern reveals itself as spiky, menacing studs. Yes, there are flowers but fashioned from patent-leather, they add a dark toughness that’s perfect for this rebellious mood.
Throughout, the mastery of the Balmain atelier is always evident. Eager to build upon learnings from couture, our craftsmen continue to push me in new directions, urging me to bend the rules that they’ve mastered so well. This runway relies on surprising deconstructions, sculptural shapes, incredible tailoring, skilled leatherwork and extreme embellishments.
I’m proud of my entire team’s efforts, as we’ve worked to ensure that our creations match the level of daring of today’s trouble-makers.
Mon, March 4 2019 » Fashion Blog
DRIES VAN NOTEN FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
INSPIRATIONS
“Rose is a Rose is a Rose is a Rose” Gertrude Stein from her poem ‘Sacred Emily’ 1913. A rose as a person or an emblem of beauty, a power in delicacy. Snapshots of garden flowers in the Dries van Noten garden in October 2018 – their imperfections and blemishes stand uncorrected, their shadows cast on a hand-held background evident.
From German Expressionism to the sublimation of the mundane in the study of human attitude and gesture in the work of Pina Bausch. Prints are frank, avoiding whimsy, fancy and romance. Pure Lines, range from the manly and austere, feminine and couture, day to evening to and the swaddling to structured.
FORM
Evoking 1940′s and 50′s couture, men’s tailoring. Amplified forms, details and lines contrast with the precision of tailoring. All from the freer forms of voluminous quilting to precise and considered garment structures.
COLOURS
A spray of greys, graphite, slate, charcoal, metals, burnished to gleaming, pewter, petrol. Hues of distilled pastels, rose, citrus, powdery mauve, fawn, eau-de-nil, duck eg blue, neon orange, gold, oxblood, imperial yellow.
FABRICS
From diaphanous and veiling to structured and classic. Chiffon, pinstripes, felts, matt to shimmering, faux fur.
PRINT
Photographs of flowers in Dries’ personal garden, October 2018, their imperfections and blemishes stand uncorrected, their shadows cast on a hand held background visible … 50 varieties of Rose, Salvia, 3 varieties of Delphinium, Acer Palmatum, Kniphofia Rooperi, 3 Varieties of Dahlia.
ACCESSORIES
High boots, Lucite Heels, flower photographs, neon faux fur stoles, over size bags.’Big-eye’ sunglasses.
COLLABORATION ON STOCKINGS
Stockings developed with Fogal for this collection exclusive to Dries van Noten in shades of cassis, stone, wild berry and light blue.
Mon, March 4 2019 » Fashion Blog
MUGLER FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
Swirling with otherworldly promise, the Fall Winter 2019 collection by Casey Cadwallader for Mugler vibrates with a savage alchemy – implanting magnificent architectures with a primal and aerodynamic elegance. In a call-and-repeat of decadent pattern and incisive structure, the silhouette pulses with complex densities and controlled volume. In acid and earth tones, mercurial graphic studies read animal, vegetal, and mineral.
Warping through a marbled stratum of natural stimuli, mixed media textiles soften the innate sharpness of turbo-charged tailoring in a macro-dose of tapestry, amoebic florals, and stained-glass leather. From chaotic patchwork to blurred print, silk georgettes and cloque wool jacquards create ruched incrustations in curving ‘trap’ dresses, as panelled columns cascade with fringed volants.
Peplum coats and zipped dolman blousons evolve hourglass shapes and bonded finishes, their flare echoed by smocked taffeta and compression corsetry built into flounced jersey dresses. Worn over snap-stud cargos and bootcut trousers, second-skin separates are embroidered in splashes of Mako beading or embossed with contoured stripes. The season’s organic energy is reflected in caged resin jewellery and the sleek construction of spoked spiral pumps or patent wedge cuissards.
“On the occasion of my second-ever Mugler show, I’d like to take the opportunity to congratulate Manfred Thierry Mugler on the opening of the retrospective exhibition this week at Musée des Beaux Arts in Montreal. Celebrating the past and present of Mugler as a duality of nostalgia and progress is truly important to me, and this exhibition pays to testament to Mugler as a beacon of culture, diversity, and innovation.”
— Casey Cadwallader, creative director of Mugler
Mon, March 4 2019 » Fashion Blog
AFTERHOMEWORK FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
We started without even knowing where we were going. Pierre Soulages said “It is what I do that teaches me what I am looking for”. This is the résumé of our creative process.
Rap, Street, Radio, Social networks, TV, our inspiration comes from what is happening around us: All of this inspires for next season a silhouette mixing streetwear and Couture techniques with a futuristic eye. We are only focused on the future.
Colors of the collection: Paris on a dark and stormy night. Materials: Poor materials, cotton stitched, wool, nylon, corduroy, rope, K-way. Silhouettes: Daily clothes whose volume has been reworked. Some subtle touches of feminity.
Fri, March 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
