Family as tribe. The fast modernity of Milan, with no nostalgia. And the cult of Italian savoir-faire, from the quality of the materials to the mental attitude of doing everything well and with style. Multi-ethnic, unrestrained by function or role, the Trussardi Fall Winter 2018/19 Men’s and Women’s Collection is writing a new aesthetic language dedicated to an urban gang of guys and girls, fictional and yet real, caught between tradition and contemporary revolutions. An antithesis? No, just the opposite: their way of dressing, their clothing is in fact the synthesis, the crasis, perhaps the solution to continuity between these two worlds.
First of all the Trussardi clothing collection, where each piece become elements: the oversize coat constructed to perfection, the trousers with a wide, perfect line, the fluid skirt with a split, the essential knitwear, the sartorial Blazer, the Biker jacket. And the leather: of the highest quality, handmade or glittery, brightened up with prints or woven into tartan patterns. And again embellished with markings like imaginary punctuation.
These are the milestones of Trussardi style, intentionally timeless, that shatter the distinction between city and mountains, daywear and casualwear. The tartan comes in all sizes, from micro to macro, popping up in every category, from day to evening. Prints of mountains or skiers go from the most athletic pieces to sleek eveningwear, overturning classic usage. And the colours, chosen from the shades of light that separate dawn from day and dusk from night, lend new depth to the iconic pieces in the collection.
The silhouettes are all vertical, large, often highlighting the waist with an air of solemnity. The lines, on the other hand, are fluid, fast and dynamic. It is a style oxymoron that can bring together agility and sophistication, references from yesterday’s wardrobe and the disenchanted attitude of today’s metropolitan tribes.
THE ACCESSORIES
Accessories are the frame for making the message even clearer. Maxi unisex pouches and backpacks in technical fabrics. Extra-large shoppers in printed leather or personalised with embroidered logos and fur details. The bag with a three-compartment interior in various colours and interchangeable straps is the result of the finest Italian craftsmanship.
The greyhound is stylised and becomes a new thin closure with a dual purpose: a shoulder strap or top handle. Finally the shoes: the men’s model, iconic and very traditional with the tongue and two side buckles, lends its form to the ladies’ new mid heel styles. And for the men, deck shoes, another icon from the classic wardrobe, are revisited in a creative way that overturns the boundary between sportswear and formal wear.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2018-19, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, Trussardi, TRUSSARDI FW 2018-19
Thu, March 1 2018 » Fashion Blog
Concept
Lorenzo Serafini began this collection by considering a period in which the United States was at the peak of its self-assurance, dynamism and power – the edge of the the 1970’s and the opening years of the 1980’s.
“I love the exuberant vivaciousness of American style at this time. And it seems so relevant to 2018/2019 to try and capture some the moment’s finest characteristics. Delicacy and strength, powerful romanticism, wholesome glamour – there were no contradictions, only confidence”, says Lorenzo Serafini.
With Margaux Hemingway as his muse-in-chief, Serafini’s lens blends Park Avenue with the prairies. His eye travels from Aspen to Wichita, from New Mexico to New York. The style is democratic: denim stands alongside tulle, leather with lace, taffeta with tailoring. It’s All American – the best of then for now.
Collection
Fringed linesman shearling over a textured knit union suit, with ruffle-collared shirting and a narrow leather belt. Gray flannel pants under lace collared cable-knit cashmere. Soft power shoulders in prairie dresses in silk chiffon plus tailoring in wool cashmere. A black velvet tracksuit over buckle-fastened, Ribbon tied, embroidered polka dot tulle top with lace fringing.
A spaghetti strapped velvet bodiced black puff skirt. Double breasted all in one tuxedo suits in slick lacquered satin or dark wool flannel. Tulip skirts in rose-printed blue velvet or lacquered satin. Frothy-collared shirts over steel toed, stacked heel boots. Faux fur chubbies. Boiled cashmere pants under soft wool top coats.
A pink on blue argyle silk chiffon maxidress and a yellow rose-print lace-edged minidress. Philosophy’s shoe of the season is the Axl, a mid-heel bootee heaped with hand-tooled metalwork and turquoise detailing realized in collaboration with the Swedish designer Emelie Törling for Leontine.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, PHILOSOPHY, PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI, PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI FW 2018-19
Wed, February 28 2018 » Fashion Blog
Wed, February 28 2018 » Fashion Blog
Ferragamo Autumn Winter 2018 marks a new chapter for the historic fashion house. Paul Andrew presents his inaugural collection as women’s creative director, joining Guillaume Meilland as design director for men’s.
This collection finds motivation in the frayed edges of modern decadence: a party once thought endless in the twilight hours jolting to reality at the first light of dawn. A new construct of dressing emerges: familiar forms are stripped back, loosened and elongated with ease and elevated functionality. Traditional silhouettes are expertly dissolved for a contemporary take on formal codes. Materials are unrivaled: from plush leathers to Italian wool fabrics, to heavy silk twill and soft cottons.
Broad strokes of colour were the starting point; merlot reds and mustard yellows mix expertly with parakeet green and deep vatican blue between hints of nude and blush. Footwear, the keystone of ferragamo’s storied history, is the seed of a collection that was purposefully visualized from the ground up.
The women’s collection channels the refined ease of Ferragamo’s legacy lit up with vigorous freshness. Leather is the fundamental material, in calfskin coats with impossibly soft cashmere lining and pull-on knee-high boots innabuk andostrich. Trousers in buttery nappa leather and wool-silk blends are exactingly cropped to pull focus downward to the shoe.
Knits are designed to complement leather pieces: from cashmere sweater dresses to ponchos. Shirt-dresses are fabricated from the material of silk foulards sourced from the archive. Galvanized block heels molded in three heights — whose metallic glazing was finished in automobile factories — have been sourced from archival 1930s-era Ferragamo styles. Merino shearling knee-high boots are dyed green and red like 70s shag pile carpeting and lined internally with lusciously soft calfskin.
Menswear is an elevated take on the utilitarian: authentic pieces have been restudied and revised with innovative construction. Shirting in silk twill, wool, leather and shearling — featuring hand-stitched finishing by master tailors — forms the anchor of the collection, echoing the womenswear pieces. Layering brings fluidity to a winter wardrobe.
Cotton bonded rain coats are updated in a relaxed, streamlined silhouette; inside, printed silk lining introduces a sly hint of hidden pattern. An english donkey jacket, lengthened and oversized from the original, is designed in double wool- cashmere with leather shoulders.
The all-new ‘the studio bag’ in crocodile, ostrich, shearling and soft calf is in great company next to petite camera bags and roomy overnighters with printed lining taken from cravat fabrics. The doppio gancini, Ferragamo’s iconic logo, is represented in ornamental hardware: oversized on triple-cuoio soled men’s shoes and at the waist as women’s belts.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2018-19, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, Salvatore Ferragamo, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FW 2018-19
Wed, February 28 2018 » Fashion Blog
Il futuro non è scritto!
So, let’s remix the past with panache!
For autumn winter 2018-2019, MSGM presents an electro love letter to Milan: the passion, the power, and the cocktail hour. Cast on the city streets, real girls go for all out glamour in glossy black, candy pink, Campari red, peacock blue, and a squeeze of lime with their wipe-clean patent trouser suits, hi-rise denim, and faux python ‘flou’.
But who is Alessandro? Well, Manzoni, of course. The novelist’s portrait and prose adorns prints and patterns, whilst our favourite Milano haunts – Bar Basso, Pasticceria Cucchi, Jamaica, and Pravda vodka bar – are immortalized in football scarves and graphic jacquard sweaters.
On crepe shirtdresses: futurist manifestos, deco chains, neon animalia, and the new Milan skyline form a swirling cacophony of print, as chromatic satin blouses twin whit box-pleat skirts or straight leg trousers. Padded floral coats, quilted satin and ballooning crinkled windcheaters create sophisticated volumes in sporty textiles. Mini ‘M’ bag purses are paired with bright leather shoppers for a ladylike twiste.
In a 90’s throwback, Diego Dolcini’s cult lock sandal is reimagined for MSGM as pointed ankle and sandal is reimagined for MSGM as pointed ankle and thigh high boots, whilst metallic tractor boots.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, MSGM, MSGM FW 2018-19
Wed, February 28 2018 » Fashion Blog
FOLK DECO
For Autumn 2018 Etro takes a journey to the land of the endless horizon. For this collection, Veronica Etro found inspiration in the long shadows and dusty colourscapes of wide western landscapes wrapped up in the graphic sensibilities of European decorative arts. Bold patterns are inspired by the intricate art deco tapestries, the enameled jewelry boxes and the colour blocking of Italian postmodern architecture. This collection exists in a cosmic prairie dreamworld unlocked only by
Etro’s bohemian wonder.
This collection relies largely on print for visual complexity. The patterns on each garment were mapped with mathematical precision and 3D modeled by hand to achieve the exact placement of every geometric ruffle, graphic border and billowing printed scarf. Weightless silk georgette and crêpe are elevated to the architectural via the intensely complicated processes used to create these fluttering, ethereal gowns. Printed chenille is used on fringed cardigans and wraparound dresses. Knitwear is the highlight of the season with masterfully crafted coats, capes, dresses and ponchos. The weight of suede and faux fur coats is broken up with panels of intarsia knit patterned wool. Chunky knits are flipped inside out on cropped jumpers to expose intricate stitching; jacquard stripes on fluid blanket coats are trimmed with suede fringe.
Patterns range from graphic checkerboard detailing to sweeping mirage-like landscapes. Traditional Etro paisley has been interpreted in multiple ways: ethnic with the chiné technique, bandana effect, manual in black and white or cosmic with stars. This iconic print is found throughout the collection, alongside wallpaper florals, stripes, fifties-style hearts and arrows and naïve patchworks. Art Deco montages with wide colour surfaces are sourced from 1920s era carpets. Colours are dusty and warm, inspired by prairie landscapes: sage green, chocolate, apricot, burnt orange, peacock, night blue, mustard, tobacco, powdery brick and reddish lobster tones.
Silhouettes are intensely romantic: prim gowns have high collars, fitted bodices and endless ruffled edging. Suede lattice trims collars for a weightier contrast to impossibly light textiles, while wispy tiered dresses bring an element of movement. Dresses and coats are designed with built-in scarves for a voluminously wrapped effect. Wide-legged leather trousers in chocolate and amber shades are cuffed at the bottom or cut short. Printed cashmere jogging suits are designed with loose trousers and fitted camisole tops and butter yellow pyjamas are bursting with floral prints. A tailored suit in paisley jacquard, alongside western style shirting with cascading printed fringe, add a more masculine note to an otherwise decidedly feminine collection.
Accessories find inspiration in arts and craft traditions. Fringed leather saddlebags with braided straps are decorated with needlepoint designs or patchwork velvet and felt. Colourfully embroidered belts are cinched with brass, silver or faux bone belt buckles. Jewellery is restrained but chunky: turquoise, coral and tiger’s eye stones are found on accessories and drop earrings set in molded silver. Heavy silver 1920s-era tank bracelets are designed to be piled up and palm-sized heart and arrows brooches are pinned to lapels, mirroring prints found on silk dresses. Soaring heels are stacked on both cropped and knee-high gaucho boots in soft calfskin leather or suede in caramel, taupe and amber. Wrapped around shoulders are blanket-like knitted shawls with wide suede fringe and colourful ponchos.
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Tags: ETRO, ETRO FW 2018-19, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19
Wed, February 28 2018 » Fashion Blog
Sportmax is poised on the starting line with a Winter 2018 collection made of luxurious and high-tech fa- brics. Sportmax is ready to race down the snowy slopes and icy sidewalks of the super cities of the world.
From Courchevel to Milan, from Gstaad to New York, from Cortina to London and from Aspen to Paris, the chromatic range of the latest must-haves emerge in decidedly color block style: the neutral tones inspi- red by men’s wardrobe are mixed to sporty green, red, yellow and blue. The logo becomes a shield: SPX. In addition, like a sports team bib “Sportmax since 1969” pops up on boots as a reminder of the brand’s upcoming anniversary.
Five decades dedicated to design are a true milestone and they mark the brand’s never-ending irt between fashion and comfort. A back ip tosses us back to the 80s with wide-shouldered puffer coats made of goose down combined with the latest in technological fabrics.
A collection of quasi- in nite proposals for the cooler months that feature a range of lengths along with outerwear, hoods and removable quilted collars which transform the looks of coats, jackets and sweaters with the use of layers. Between the leggings and stretch ski pants, the pants are often à trompette.
The skirts and dresses, from pleated to narrow to even ared, are fastened with zippers in order to show off or hide everything, depen- ding on the mood. Classic lines and technical design come together in every look. The concept of mo- vement dominates the remix of cashmere, nylon, wool, viscose, lurex and technical jersey. The menswear fabrics are lined with wool or nylon.
The houndstooth weave is coated with a high-tech veil giving it more light. The jacquards become lightweight with the addition of acetate or viscose inserts. The sweatshirt steps out in jersey or cashmere and satin, combined with high-tech materials, shows off its sensual side.
The exibility of the body and soul is featured in the high-performance knitwear that shapes the silhouette with sweaters cut like the uniforms of ski teachers. The turtlenecks illuminate the face with their diamond motifs, giving the sense of a foulard at the neck.
Brogues, short booties, over-the-knee cuissards and shoes with rubber-treaded soles facilitate movement across wet and frozen surfaces whether sporting a belt bag on the hip or a mini bag in the hand.
The extreme combination between classics and technology de nes the new attitude of Sportmax.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, SPORTMAX, SPORTMAX FW 2018-19
Tue, February 27 2018 » Fashion Blog
Elementary. The ancestral and the futuristic, joined like siamese twins. Regaining a state of primitive bliss, using technologic means.
Basic, raw, immediate. Constructing pieces around the body, elementarily. Folding, slicing, nipping. Wrapping instead of buttoning. The coat, the jacket and the dress, reduced to the primary line, moving away from the hips, marking the waist, forging the archetype.
Urges that drive mankind. Changing skin as a vital need and a lively force. Using clothes to transform appearance and environment. The act of dressing and adorning as a way to affirm the self, preserve oneself and attract the others, gathering a tribe.
Horizontal, vertical, square angles. Elementary rhythm of elementary movements. Stripes that run, blankets assembled into capes, folds that wrap.
I, we and an army of me: a camouflage of faces. The individual and the collective. Being one and safety in numbers. A plurality of women, sending out vitalistic messages, collecting and assembling signs of the evolution of the species: feathers fluttering from the ears, coins inflating and decorating, ropes dangling.
Elementary urges. Undressing to seduce, covering up to shield and protect, unraveling to express extraordinary desire. The sensuality of a silky movement. Eyes of a cat hypnotizing and attracting, allover.
Fusing halves together. Dresses and coats, embracing their brotherly alter ego. The sensuality of a siamese union, and its feline undertones. Differences that empower, by pointing in the same direction.
Harmony of clashes: done/undone; languid/assertive; natural/synthetic. PVC and radzmire, polyester and leather, a riot of brights and naturals. Opposition as the energy of life itself, ruled by universal magnetism. Elementary.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, MARNI, MARNI FW 2018-19
Tue, February 27 2018 » Fashion Blog
Emilio Pucci’s own ties with America – his love for sportswear and a groundbreaking lingerie deal dating back to the Fifties – inspire a glitzy detour across ideas of femininity. The jet set aura and the sporty spirit are mixed and glamorously mingled.
The silhouette is shapely and curvaceous or elongated and dynamic, with voluminous duvets, roomy melton duffels and luxuriously utilitarian double-face coats offering function and protection.
Marylin Monroe’s archetypal charm: nipped waists, big skirts reminiscent of hand painted Pucci classics or languid slips and intarsia camisoles. Cropped knits tops further highlight the womanly shapes. Quilting is a cozy mountain touch that runs up to the toque hats, gaining a sophisticated air.
The private becomes public: underpinnings turn into dresses, as Diana Vreeland suggested looking at Emilio’s artfully printed slips.
The alluring and the sporty, continuously mixed: silk jersey pieces and lace details. Pucci solids on long silk jersey dresses as favored by Marilyn, embellished by few pieces of extraordinary jewelry culled from the Bulgari archives further underline the jet set aura of the American trip.
A beautifying palette of make-up box powdery tones. Soft pinks, blues, greys and dusty pastels are highlighted by the sfumato Mirage prints. Purples and greens combine with taupe in the Tulipani and Trifoglio archive prints. The Emilio Pucci logo follows as a happy mix.
Sophistication meets function in the accessories: minimal leather shopping bags, both in print and solids, with plexiglass handles; oversized pockets go from skirts to bags. Neoprene lace-ups with kitten keels, patent boots.
Glamour gets to the fore, with the quintessential Pucci ease.
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Tags: Emilio Pucci, EMILIO PUCCI FW 2018-19, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19
Tue, February 27 2018 » Fashion Blog
THE CLANS OF VERSACE
“The Clans of Versace know that today nothing is acquired through birth, but rather earned through what they achieve: this is why these women are all Queens to me.”
Donatella Versace
United through passion and a desire to rock all boundaries, the Clans of Versace are crowned as the true modern royalty. Daring to speak their mind and standing out from the crowd through their style choice, they rule their own life and always look out for each other. Women who aren’t afraid to walk their own walk, and talk their talk, never forgetting that they were born to be bold.
Strong. Loud. Confident. There are no mid-ways. No compromises. A clash of cultures that generates friction and contrast between past and present – old and new, trendy and subculture, sneakers and stilettos. Different clans are represented by their print of choice. All played out on the Versace Fall Winter 2018 catwalk.
THE CLAN OF COLOR
Never safe. Never obvious. An explosion of personality. The Versace way is always innovative, with a plethora of colors and prints that are not afraid to Mix and Clash.
THE CLAN OF UNITY
Family always comes first. Versace women stand together, rooting for their cause in unity. Soccer-style scarf fringe inserts on dresses give the right amount of ‘look-at-me’ sass to evening wear. Groups of tartans are mixed together in a seemingly random manner, representing the clash of subcultures. Prints named after ‘the greater Versace family’ pay tribute to kinship. A celebration of the deep bond between each member of this royal family, where diversity and inclusivity reign.
THE CLAN OF THE PRESENT
Sneaker geeks keep one eye on the past, one on the future, with their feet firmly gripping the present. They live for today. Now matters most. The insta moment is everything. They create a Chain Reaction with a ripple effect. Some people are born royal. Some become Queens on their own.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, VERSACE, VERSACE FW 2018-19
Tue, February 27 2018 » Fashion Blog
