When thinking of the world of nature in the cold harsh winter months, there are enduring plants and animals living and waiting for spring to blossom. Quiet strength and gentleness wraps around them. Nature is a continuous source of inspiration.
Knit and pleats are both incorporated in this season’s Steam Stretch to give the new texture. Weaving low count wool thread into the textile creates a new knit-like texture.
It generates a lightness that bounces like pleated material and a functionality that is easily cared for, bringing joy and fresh surprise to the modern lifestyle.
ISSEY MIYAKE’s concept «A Piece Of Cloth» continues to evolve.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, ISSEY MIYAKE, ISSEY MIYAKE FW 2018-19
Mon, March 5 2018 » Fashion Blog
When I arrived at Carven last year, I wanted my debut to be strong visually – a reimagining of how the house is relevant today. Now that I have completed a full cycle of seasons here, it felt time to introduce this collection to you directly.
The girls who catch your attention today dress differently than just a few years ago. This has been on my mind lately as I notice women in Paris and beyond asserting a wider spectrum of identities than ever. In the context of Carven, I envision a collection of individuals whose confidence is harnessed from their contrasts.
They project their inner nature as an outward expression of style. It’s exciting to see eccentricities replacing perfection. This makes me think that no state is more absolute than their natural state. As such, the clothes they wear reflect their values, experiences and character in an ever-changing, versatile mix.
To me, this is what makes a girl of our time. Applying these insights to the FW18 collection, I pictured girls who are grounded yet always exploring. Mme Carven loved to travel and so do I. But where she touched down in far-flung destinations, I collect source material from all over without any literal referencing.
Instead, a variety of outdoorsy touchpoints – fisherman waxed jackets, quilted paneling, blanket checks – have been spontaneously reimagined with added personality. Certain pieces tap into nonspecific memories; a reworked tennis sweater, panels of a vintage lily print and modified argyles, or flannel washed far too many times.
Shifting proportions are an exercise of opposing forces: solid, sporty contours versus sheer fluidity, stiff versus soft wools. Whether higher-waist pants, knit leggings, irregularly pleated skirts, ruched shirts or mixed-material dress, the result must be wearable.
Fabrics relate to each other; two prints featuring whimsical pottery and jewellery shapes return in lace and as a subtle devoré. Even a multi-coloured wool picks up the motif as an enlarged pattern. Plaids, stripes and dots play out on surfaces and within jacquards.
Embroidery fragments offer a meaningful hand touch. I wanted the looks to feel uplifted and energized. Shoes, bags and jewellery continue to be decoratively dynamic, reinforcing an artisanal focus. Oversized colourful tassels, climbing cord and ribbon accents are becoming a new Carven signature; this time, they adorn crepe-sole utility boots and ballerines with low slanted heels.
Bags with removable charm closures, and pearls that coil around the ear become pieces that set the Carven girl apart. Otherwise, a new postman style remains relatively classic. Finally, it seems worth mentioning that my view of Carven accommodates both girl and woman.
In the broadest terms, this collection is simultaneously youthful and mature in statement and in spirit. I think of everyone projecting themselves onto the looks, adapting elements without limits; here is where you find Carven’s potential. In this way, you can sense that those who wear Carven turn heads because they fashion themselves from a personal place, and with purpose.
Sincerely, Serge
(more…)
Tags: CARVEN, CARVEN FW 2018-19, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19
Mon, March 5 2018 » Fashion Blog
Through assembly and archetypes, creative director Julien Dossena envisages the Autumn Winter 2018-19 collection as an artisanal homage to the legacy of Paco Rabanne. Instilled with a radical intimacy, the collection explores the delicate impact of new craft grounded with a real-world élan.
Superimposing flat forms with dense textures, the silhouette appears in constant movement: fine wool and crisp cotton are juxtaposed in effortless tiers beneath shifting structures of chain, crystal, rhodoïd, and pearlescent flowers. The white shirt, jean jacket, camisole and twinset are reconsidered as material research incites new readings into the bourgeois underpinnings of a Parisian wardrobe.
Cage tops, skirts and column dresses shiver with metallic daisies, sequins, and four-leaf clovers. Recreating a duo of archive designs, the collection includes Audrey Hepburn’s mirrored shift from the film “Two For The Road” (1967) and Françoise Hardy’s white chain-link top seen on the July 1967 cover of Elle France.
Elsewhere, the craftsmanship of rigid materials is rendered fluid as a pierced negligée, argyle knitwear, or patchwork shearling. For heightened contrast, Breton stripes, teddy fur, and strict tailoring project shining assemblage into sharp relief.
In an ode to the ‘Iconic’ 1969 chain bag, soft new shapes burst with plastic paillettes, and a new ‘Cage’ duffel is crafted in calfskin, toile, and suede. On foot, slashed Santiago boots ground the silhouette and pool slides pop with embellished hardware.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, PACO RABANNE, PACO RABANNE FW 2018-19
Mon, March 5 2018 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Valentino Fall Winter 2018-19 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Paris 4th March 2018 at 5.00 PM CET. Stay Tuned! #ValentinoFW1819
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, LIVE STREAMING, VALENTINO, VALENTINO FW 2018-19
Sun, March 4 2018 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Hermès Fall Winter 2018 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Paris 3rd March 2018 at 6.00 PM ( Paris Time ). Stay Tuned!
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, hermès, HERMÈS FW 2018-19, LIVE STREAMING
Sat, March 3 2018 » Fashion Blog
Sat, March 3 2018 » Fashion Blog
Fri, March 2 2018 » Fashion Blog
At the dawn of World War II, René Lacoste and his wife, Simone Thion de la Chaume, developed a wide-ranging tree development project for the golf course of Chantaco in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, around the family grounds.
At that time, a number of locals were spared from mandatory work in Germany thanks to the Lacoste family, who employed them to plant trees on the family golf course, as the law protected forestry workers from conscription.
This is how 50 000 trees, covering almost 125 acres, were planted during the war, many varieties of pine trees (Maritime, Scotch, Weymouth, Austrian and Umbrella pines), as well as red oak trees, while the workers, themselves, were kept safe. As for the Golf de Chantaco, it is the most tree-lined in France.
This is the starting point for our collection this season: a tale of empathy, of kindness and of hope. Its universal reach touched me, and I wanted to transmit it by immersing you as much as possible in Chantaco, the backdrop to this lesser known part of Lacoste history.
We hold the story in our hands, while it takes place before your eyes: elegant photos of the period showing the Thion de la Chaume-Lacoste family on their land; old archive pieces of golf wear collections of the 80’s and 90’s; the club house; the family home… These are some of the reminders of the past that inspired the imagination of our creative team.
We wanted to go back to the essential values, find meaning and refuge in nature: notions of mobility, protection, comfort and hybridity became natural guidelines. Those were translated into streamlined functional clothing, aiming for a sense of timelessness suited to tomorrow’s needs.
For the Lacoste 85th anniversary, I decided to unveil a lesser known side of the brand’s heritage: the Golf de Chantaco, its surroundings, as well as Simone Thion de la Chaume, René’s wife; two champions side by side.
The latest collaboration of the house is presented here, and available as of today on Lacoste.com. We are launching a partnership with the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature), and creating 10 new polo shirts, where our beloved crocodile will exceptionally make room for 10 threatened species.
This collaboration is especially important to me, due to the extreme urgency and seriousness of its character. Ten looks of the show are dedicated to these ten species.
This is our way of planting trees in 2018.
Felipe Oliveira Baptista
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2018-19, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, LACOSTE, LACOSTE FW 2018-19
Fri, March 2 2018 » Fashion Blog
“The sixties were about personalities. It was the rst time when mannequins became personalities. It was a time of great goals, an inventive time…. and these girls invented themselves.”
Diana Vreeland
Anniversaries can be triggers for exceptional memories. Remembering is also about reinventing and imagining. Fifty years after the momentum of urgency and creativity that the year 1968 brought, this is an opportunity for Maria Grazia Chiuri to revive an era when the rules of fashion were turned on their head. Indeed, thanks to this emulation which stimulated the emergence of new ideas, creativity for creativity’s sake, the cut-up technique and travel as a means of discovering others but also oneself, youth occupies a place at the centre of the scene.
For this Autumn-Winter 2018-2019 Ready-to-Wear collection, the Artistic Director of Dior was guided by these symbols and attitudes representing a search for authenticity. Magni cent woollen embroideries appear on organza dresses, jeans are reworked and printed, bags are inspired by the House’s archives, with an ethnic shoulder strap or patchworks made of fabrics drawn from the same heritage: these pieces become veritable windows on the world. Ponchos are worn freely. Ornamentation becomes important, acting as ambassadors of the different cultures each type represents. The collection evolves in a spirit of freedom as much in its creation as in its associations, shapes and materials.
This act of cutting loose and choosing one’s own image is precisely what Maria Grazia Chiuri sets out for the women of today. Kilts come in different lengths, but also in unexpected materials like point d’esprit, and are paired with masculine jackets or small coats. The abundant knitwear is also embroidered and hugs the body. Dresses have been shortened and are worn over biker-inspired thigh boots. Her sharp fashion instinct guides the designer throughout this return to a singular and incredible time, because changing the world also means changing clothes.
It was Diana Vreeland, the charismatic editor-in-chief of Vogue US from 1963 to 1971, who coined the term Youthquake and de ned the Youthquakers. The times were changing, as were the bodies, faces, attitudes and personalities of those who initiated this sartorial revolution – an earthquake that forever changed the way we dress. Fashion was being questioned, but constantly reinventing itself to tell a new story that could say everything and its opposite. Moreover, when a group of young women in miniskirts held a protest on 12 September 1966 in front of the Dior boutique with placards bearing the maxim ‘Mini Skirts Forever’, as shown in a photo from the time, Marc Bohan, then Artistic Director of Dior, came up with the Miss Dior collection and reinterpreted the idea of femininity as shaped by Christian Dior.
In this collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri, on the other hand, openly counterbalances the return of the uniform, to bring us back to what it signi es: the individual taking precedence over gender differences, and the equality of rights and roles which remains the great conquest of that time.
(more…)
Tags: DIOR, DIOR FW 2018-19, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19
Thu, March 1 2018 » Fashion Blog
Maison Margiela propels its vision forward to an innate new language and wardrobe based on the vocabulary established through the Artisanal collection. Dressing in reverse is an idea as subversive as relaxed glamour: a trench coat worn casually under a dress, a jumper thrown over a blazer, or the glimpse of a fisherman’s knit under a transparent skirt. For Autumn – Winter 2018, creative director John Galliano examines the inverted wardrobe established at Maison Margiela.
The silhouettes of Haute Couture are clarified in garments realized in sculpturally magnified volumes. Outerwear transforms into dresses when dressing in haste. It’s a nylon coat worn under a décortiqué leather jacket, or a deconstructed salopette layered over a trench coat. Seducing the eye, illusionary materials create memories of the familiar.
A transparent hologram coat encasing multi-coloured layers of viscose fringing, tulle and organza evokes the codes of rodeo. A grey melange décortiqué jacket is encrusted with the memory of an Aran knit cast in rubber. Fusions of authentic wardrobe staples appropriate the inappropriate. It’s illustrated in the bonding of a herringbone blazer with a fisherman’s knit, or in a twill skirt embossed with the memory of a rodeo skirt. In a play between layers, transparency and reflection, garments become transformative and generate a sense of unconscious glamour.
Materials
Drawing on the Artisanal collection, holographic and transparent materials take centre stage. Iridescent foil, nylon, reflective flash-sensitive fabric and changeant react to light and movement, effectively shape-shifting on the body. Layered under poly-urethane, tulles and organza liquefy into three-dimensional forms encouraged by the texture of viscose fringing. The effect is echoed in the use of chiffon, voile and georgette. Heritage materials sourced from the men’s wardrobe – herringbone, cavalry twill, gabardine, wool of Aran knits – counter the collection’s technical character and instil a sense of authenticity. Leather appears in outerwear such as cabans and fringed décortiqué rodeo jackets.
Technique
Notions of relaxed glamour and dressing backwards inform cuts and silhouettes. The hybridisation of classic wardrobe staples calls for bonding and embroidery, employed throughout the collection such as in the fusion of knitwear with tailoring. Outerwear encases layers of materials to create new images through depth. Moulded rubber bears the recollection of knitwear, while formage – the three-dimensional embossing of twill – creates the imprinted memory of rodeo pieces.
Prints of similar motifs appear in multiple colours on transparent fabric layered to create a transformative filtrage. Cementing a house code, décortiqué – the reduction of a garment to its core – is exercised in outerwear similarly alluding to the memory of traditional items of clothing.
Palette
Heritage tones from the humble men’s wardrobe such as charcoal, beige, melange, off-white and black are offset by the boldness of security yellow, Klein blue and fuchsia. Greens and royal purple further add to a Technicolor palette nodding to the iridescence of the technical materials used in the collection.
Accessories
Inspired by the way in which contemporary tech gadgets serve as extensions of the body, jewellery takes on a prosthetic feel. Ear cuffs and tube rings in rubber and hand cuffs in rubber or chrome-plated brass follow the contours of the body, while diamonté brooches and earrings embellish the anatomy like growing organisms. Nodding to the idea of jewellery display cards, brooches are mounted on acetate boards. Chain belts in brass or rubber-coated metal link to rodeo.
Introduced in the Artisanal collection, the Margiela sneaker features in high-top and low-top editions, while the cloud-like Glam Slam bag appears in a new iridescent form.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, MAISON MARGIELA, MAISON MARGIELA FW 2018-19
Thu, March 1 2018 » Fashion Blog
