We started without even knowing where we were going. Pierre Soulages said “It is what I do that teaches me what I am looking for”. This is the résumé of our creative process.
Rap, Street, Radio, Social networks, TV, our inspiration comes from what is happening around us: All of this inspires for next season a silhouette mixing streetwear and Couture techniques with a futuristic eye. We are only focused on the future.
Colors of the collection: Paris on a dark and stormy night. Materials: Poor materials, cotton stitched, wool, nylon, corduroy, rope, K-way. Silhouettes: Daily clothes whose volume has been reworked. Some subtle touches of feminity.
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Tags: AFTERHOMEWORK, AFTERHOMEWORK FW 2019.20, FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20
Fri, March 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
The sharp and couture-refined tailoring gives Anthony Vaccarello’s silhouettes a distinct and graphic elegance. Sculptural lines, inspired by the eighties, recall the sophisticated and liberated spirit of Betty Catroux, Bianca Jagger and Catherine Deneuve, iconic muses of the house.
Following the strict geometry, the Opium myth of red and gold embroideries turns into new dynamic shapes in precious materials.
For the finale, in the mirrored kaleidoscopic show set, a black light unveils the contemporary, effortless aspect of Saint Laurent’s soul.
“Everything starts from the shoulder construction. The graphic sculptural tailoring gives a sharp sophistication to the liberated impulse of desire” Anthony Vaccarello
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, SAINT LAURENT, SAINT LAURENT FW 2019-20
Fri, March 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
Wed, February 27 2019 » Fashion Blog
Rhapsody in Blue
Interior, night. For the first time, Armani/Silos is hosting a runway show in the setting that encapsulates and summarises the work of Giorgio Armani. Feminine figures, slim and slender like pencil strokes, move throughout the rooms together with strong yet graceful men.
In what they wear, they are complementary expressions of the same vision, united through the colour blue: deep and vibrant, the Armani shade par excellence pervades everything, defining a timeless, velvety elegance that is perfectly balanced. The female silhouette is elongated and curvaceous, sketched with short jackets close-fitting at the bust, trousers with curved edging, pencil coats and draped blousons.
Collars disappear, and asymmetrical markings sweep over the pieces like brush strokes, adding a sense of motion to the figure, along with an interplay of inlay work. The effect of movement is also suggested on the surfaces, which are covered in photographic prints of knots and drapery, enlarged to the point of becoming abstract.
The eveningwear is lengthened, dazzling and sleek with its sparkling garments, featuring styles as simple as t-shirts or velvet jumpsuits that make a statement with their textural, agile flair. Soft tailoring dominates the men’s collection, while midnight blue velvet adds a sense of depth: the material of choice features in short, compact double- breasted blazers, parkas and coats that are comfortable and enveloping and suggest movement.
The stylistic narrative unfolds, alternating between subdued formality that anticipates the surprise return of the tie, and an equally understated athleticism, where jackets and anoraks are paired with tailored, flowing trousers. Conscious nonchalance is the distinguishing feature – the expression of a vision of masculinity that finds power in elegance.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, GIORGIO ARMANI, GIORGIO ARMANI FW 2019-20
Tue, February 26 2019 » Fashion Blog
Stepping into the blue of a chroma key. The color allows the change of the background however one prefers, teleporting characters across eras and places, in a flip.
It’s a stargate, if you like. The Missoni chroma key is a door that connects different moments in the history of a fashion house that’s been active for more than six decades and has endlessly explored every path of knitwear.
The blue door connects the present time with an instant placed on the cusp of the mid seventies, when volumes were long, lean and liquid, and fashion danced around the body.
A time of high waists and elegant elongation; of enveloping coats, flowing capes and hoods. A flip, and the fluctuating lines materialize here and now, into the blue, in a wardrobe of jacquard coats, capes, jumpsuits, suits and dresses, put together with enveloping moves.
The glitter, the shine and the sparkle so defining of that era return, just like the bonnets and the pierrot collars, which however are brought to decisive proportions. The sparkle of lamè carries in the mens wardrobe, where shine, suiting and wide pants rule.
The long élan of Missoni bridging its own present and with its own past follows a clarity that is a matter of line as it is one of surfaces. Color blocks and blown-up jacquards stimulate the gaze in strict yet gentle ways.
The chroma key allows everything to come back. As such, it knows no nostalgia.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, MISSONI, MISSONI FW 2019-20
Tue, February 26 2019 » Fashion Blog
The persistence of memory – how it shapes the present, how it forms the future – inspires the Fall/Winter 2019 Roberto Cavalli collection by creative director Paul Surridge. It evokes memories of Cavalli – not direct references, but reflections. Embracing, celebrating, evolving, it asserts the codes of the house: vibrant colour, a distinct print language, an artisanal touch. Alongside universal ideals of status, allure, beauty and confidence. These too are fundamentally Cavalli.
Clothes move with the body – freedom is confident. The clothes interplay between fitted and draped, a dynamic esprit. Plissé silks ebb and flow, sometimes interrupted with a twist in their precision, and knits cling to contours yet shift in motion. A modern ease. Joie de vivre.
Tailoring is rigorous, sculpting: it defines. A compact silhouette drawn from frock-coats references timeless notions of status, and the structure of tailoring offers dynamic rigour when combined with liquid silks. Menswear relaxes tailoring – here, ease equals power,translating a modern deformalised attitude into sartorial dressing. Mens and womens clothes interchange, exchange. They have a memory of each other.
Cavalli’s key code of animalier is here impressionistic, refracted into a stylised, Modernist tiger print, shadowed, in unexpected colours. It appears as prints across fluid silks, as embroideries that appear painted on the skin, and in intarsia shearlings – abstracted, but always with a memory of its origin. Python is recreated as a hand-drawn pattern in jacquard, or as sequin embroidery keyed close to the body, drawn from archival styles. These are reflected in Art Deco-inspired evening dresses, the memory of the 1920s, a source of inspiration for Cavalli past and present.
The colour palette is rich, embedding subdued tonality with glimmering jewels: midnight navy, black, fresco pastels, porcelain, alongside chartreuse, lagoon-mist blue and bougainvillea.
Accessories are founded in anchors, classics, archetypes. Bags become embellished status symbols carrying “Bold C” hardware; jewellery plays with crocodile scale motifs, like a modern armour. Shoes have strong chiselled toes, on both high-boots and evening mules, balanced on a finely-tooled bevelled gold heel. The same sharp, squared toe appears in menswear, on an elevated ankle-boot – shown alongside the iconic Roberto Cavalli V1PER sneaker.
Throughout, like a heartbeat, is the artisanal touch that defines Cavalli. Delicate embroideries, intricate fabrics, a memory of the human touch. Quintessentially Roberto Cavalli.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, Roberto Cavalli, ROBERTO CAVALLI FW 2019-20
Tue, February 26 2019 » Fashion Blog
Tue, February 26 2019 » Fashion Blog
Salvatore Ferragamo© Copyright 2019
“GENERATION”
Family, the cultural continuity between generations, and power – all have been central to the spirit of Salvatore Ferragamo. It is a quiet power that distinguishes the house, a power Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland explore for Autumn/Winter 2019 and figure into the zeitgeist as an antidote to its pervasive unrest. The revelation comes in a kaleidoscopic display of identity and all its nuance: impossible to characterize in one attitude or gesture, their men and women refuse easy definitions and instinctively embrace a politics of togetherness.
Patchworks of suede, nappa, snake and lizard in women’s accessories and ready-to-wear speak to this prevailing notion of multiplicity and allude to Mr. Ferragamo’s ubiquitous multicolor patchwork wedge of 1942. The same symbolic tactic is echoed in archival scarf prints in modern patchwork on silk twill. Fringed cashmere blanket coats, sensual leather robes, sportswear in Japanese technical wool and hand-knit textured sweaters convey a natural, unstudied luxury. The Gancini monogram jacquard, a new signature, visually locates the collection in a place and time without needing to tiredly assert a heritage.
Tailored garments imagined with an outdoor sensibility frame the menswear proposal. Deerskin, corduroy and technical wool gabardine give jackets and outerwear presence and gravitas. Engineered shapes and utilitarian trims are essential features both of design and end-use. The new suit is three-button, soft shouldered, the lapel widened, in traditional British and Italian cloths.
Shoes not only importantly anchor the collection looks; they are the fundamental ingredients of the Ferragamo formula. Sculptural heels appear in bright suedes, nipped-point toe stilettos in satin with hand encrusted rhinestone straps, and pull-on boots in butter calfskin. Nubuck trekking boots and a twist on the classic loafer for men further emphasize the tension between classic and rugged. Handbags in everyday styles are rendered soft and deconstructed in suede and tumbled deerskin or assume singularity as small, handheld objects.
A new creative horizon at Ferragamo begins to come into focus, with a renewed commitment to crafting innovative products for a generation that sees luxury everywhere and nowhere, and for whom inclusion and authenticity rise as beacons of possibility, hope.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, Salvatore Ferragamo, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FW 2019-20
Mon, February 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
Snow White or Evil Queen? Why chose when you can be both suggests Creative Director James Long corrupting the purity of full white looks with cherry blossom punks in Barbara Cartland pink and garments adorned with gems quite possibly from Disney’s mines.
Basket weave jacquards in Royal blue distort garden flowers and logos in texture and shine on knitted cycling shorts and midi-pencils. A stripe shirt dips into the same graphic while a long dress, thigh split with balloon sleeves is tone on tone. An oversized bondage strapped men’s coat with Dopey on the reverse raises smiles even when you are in Off-to-Work-We- Go mode.
White and cream softness in chiffon and brushed fluff Snow White knitwear are made tough with military inspired garter over-skirts and Artic white denim. Clear sunglasses and roomy padded coats for our pure as snow heroine are available for both men and women.
But bite the apple and embrace your dark side. A new take on a pair from the archive ICEBERG bondage trousers with matching jackets cover punkish brushed sweaters and studded crystal strips (based on the guitar strap of PJ Harvey) light up luxurious tricadi tailoring. White shirts have louche rock star studded collars.
The glitzy neon glow of gems and crystals give a Douglas Leigh LED cityscape over black bodysuits, full length dresses and trousers. The evil Queen, hand drawn and knitted sneers at her reflection in the Linda Farrow for ICEBERG Magic Mirror sunglasses.
High shine plasticised chiffon become Siouxsie tight trousers, boots and the shoulders of jackets where knit has been fused with fabric in a process called agugliatura or needling.
Chaotic yet soft styling with pink oversized cardigan dresses and diaphanous fabrics are layered over sporty bodysuits and shorts. While in a puce DB jacket with matching trousers and chiffon shirt you don’t have to wait for your fairy tale ending: you’ve become your very own Prince.
Special guest on the runway the first ICEBERG x Linda Farrow eyewear collection. The collaboration is a classic sporty silhouette that has been playfully printed with ICEBERG’s strong primary colour stripes and logo. Featuring reflective lenses, black rubberised details and a matt white finish paired with a white knit sports strap.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, ICEBERG, ICEBERG FW 2019-20
Sun, February 24 2019 » Fashion Blog
Bottega Veneta© Copyright 2019
Bottega Veneta’s Fall 2019 collection is a celebration of freedom, self-expression and sensuality. Creative Director Daniel Lee’s first runway show for the house is an exercise in elevated detail, noble materials and energetic silhouette.
While the quiet craft central to Bottega Veneta’s identity is still present, Fall 2019 brings a sharp injection of modernity to traditional technique, turning up the volume. Combining the human hand with technology and process, the result is simultaneously classic and contemporary.
A viewpoint on the house’s Italian origins seen through today’s global lens offers another visible tension – the conspicuous and the refined, high and low, hedonism and intellect. The season’s palette is also a reflection on this discussion, chemical hues and shimmering embellishment meet natural tones and everyday colour.
Presenting a new vocabulary for Bottega Veneta, leather and the house’s Intrecciato weave is reinterpreted and evolved. Polished dresses and layered knitwear pair with armour-like outerwear, sharp tailoring and confident accessories.
Ultimately, the aim of this season’s collection is a simple one, to evoke emotion – pleasure and joy, desire and beauty.
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Tags: BOTTEGA VENETA, BOTTEGA VENETA FW 2019-20, FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20
Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
