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Sat, January 14 2017 » Fashion Blog
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA FALL WINTER 2017 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
Winter 2017
Crafted Modernity: A “Made To Measure” Fashion Show
A merging of the intensely artisanal and the resolutely contemporary. Alessandro Sartori debuts in the role of Artistic Director for Ermenegildo Zegna in a dialogue between the art of exquisite tailoring and the fast-paced needs of the contemporary urban and globe trotter. Out of progressive contrasts – technology clashes with tradition as the outdoors spirit stems from sartorial constructions and sportswear permanently alters the look of formality – new categories arise. The message is synchronic: ease, speed, luxury that’s relevant for the moment and that’s thought to be lived out there. The spirit is as multi-cultural, multi-age, multiple as contemporary masculinity is.
The show is set within the iconic premises of Anselm Kiefer’s The Seven Heavenly Palaces. His brutally poetic, conceptually expansive architectures of pure raw materials and effortless engineering becomes the perfect environment for Alessandro Sartori’s new aesthetic which evolves and breaks codes relying on intense textures and keen constructions that define new functions. Casentino felt is made with ultralight cashmere, allowing suits to turn into outerwear. The textile research of Ermenegildo Zegna is manifested in the exclusive Trofeo Cashmere denim as well as in felted cashmere jersey and tubular padded jacquards. A special wax tanning process gives baby calf a papery, waterproof feel and a surprising weightlessness. Geometrics jacquard – hand-drawn and intricate – add a spin to classic suiting patterns.
The silhouette is soft and active, defined by the strong line of the shoulders and a natural flow. Inside-out constructions bring functionality to the fore; drawstrings mold the shape of formal coats and field jackets. The proportions of blousons and parkas have a defining lightness. Rubberized zippers close tailored outerwear. In the global shifting, an elegant informality arises.
The organic color palette grows from tones of winter white and light grey to notes of camel, vicuna, rusted nail and African earth to deepen into shades of oxblood, pond, peacock green and journal blue.
Accessories make a bold presence: active sneakers, sturdy brogues with silicon-dipped soles, outsized portfolios and backpacks, book briefcases. A special loom turns super thin leather strips into a woven fabric: the innovative Pelle Tessuta.
To close the circle creating a real dialogue with the customers, in the spirit of Couture the day after the show a selection of looks will be available to order Made to Measure in global stores worldwide, scheduled for a six-weeks delivery according to the meticulous atelier timeline. This unique experience expands the reach of the show to a global audience, keeping the authenticity of Zegna values in soulful pieces meant to be really worn.
Sat, January 14 2017 » Fashion Blog
GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY FALL WINTER 2017 MEN’S COLLECTION – KALININGRAD
Gosha Rubchisnkiy’s FW17 collection takes the symbol and strength of international partnerships one step further and marks the beginning of an ongoing collaboration with adidas Football leading up to the 2018 World Cup in Russia.
Titled the Football Collection, Gosha’s FW17 apparel is inspired by today’s football fans : young, multidimensional individuals as passionate about the game as they might be about techno music and fashion. Gosha mixes iconic adidas Football on and off pitch pieces with classic suiting, all designed in his signature style to represent this plurality.
Stamped with the word « FOOTBALL » written in cyrillic, the adidas Football x Gosha Rubchinskiy collaboration includes items ranging from a winter padded coat to striped football jerseys, hoodies and accessories as well as the ACE 16+ SUPER and COPA sneakers.
Teaming up with UK milliner Stephen Jones for his FW17 headpieces, Gosha emphasizes the importance of being on a global team. His football fan is nurtured by German technology, British heritage and Russian youth. He is international.
The location of the show is symbolic of this strong worldwide connection. Kaliningrad itself is a piece of Russia in the middle of Europe, and historically a German territory known as Königsberg. The city’s Youth Centre, formely the old Königsberg Stock Exchange, is the perfect backdrop to present this east- meets-west collection and represents the link between past and future.
For this new Russian period Gosha comes back to the motherland for the first time since his 2008 Moscow debut to present a very personal show : from the hair & make-up, styling to a very special casting of boys from all over Russia, all is directed by Gosha.
The music score produced for the occasion in collaboration with Buttechno, as per previous seasons, is constructed exclusively around recorded interviews of the models. Their voices are the sole instruments in the soundtrack not only providing the rhythm to the show but also a portrayal of youth in Russia today.
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