Andrea Incontri © Copyright 2013
A knight, a Poet, an Artist living his time: this is the new man according to Andrea Incontri. A perfect balance between the strength of dignity and a kind soul, seeking beauty.
A collection of Contemporary Classics, the natural seduction of pure design where today’s living can’t be without old times’ values.
Neutral and soft colours go together with compact strong hues: camel and dark brown, black and white or Donegal tweed. A colour palette melting in frescoes-like prints, inspired by Pisanello masterpieces painted in Mantua, the designer’s hometown.
It’s an esthetic to be found in proud and talented painters: a manly man, ancient and powerful, always searching for pure and warm fabrics, decided volumes and new cuts. Soft velvety wool, crisp tweed, double jersey and a rubbered canvas that changes with use. Touch and feel is a favourite this season, so no surprise in finding original embroideries on shirts, developed in different geometric textures with a 3D vibe to it.
Menswear essentials are developed through out this Progetto Sartoriale by Andrea Incontri, like not-to-miss pieces in every gentleman’s wardrobe. Single or double breast jackets, short bomber jackets and oversize coats. The cardigan turns into an armour through special film covering plain canvas.
A vision mixing together different elements: the attention is on big lepels, on fading prints, on long scarves to protect from cold, on shirts muted in painter’s working robes – with a special pocket for the pencil – over long winter underpants. A new menswear concept.
Accessories from bags to shoes are a must have in this signature collection: soft backpacks, big geometric tote bags, leather ipad cases, flat bidimensional zipped envelopes, portfolio like bags. The italian soft loafer is handstiched, boots have precise raw edges and the classic shoe has stripes in contrasting colours.
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Tags: ANDREA INCONTRI, ANDREA INCONTRI FW 2013-14, FALL WINTER MEN 2013-14
Tue, February 12 2013 » Fashion Blog
Ermenegildo Zegna © Copyright 2013
STYLE FOR CHANGE WITH NEW WINTER SILKS AND URBAN PINSTRIPES
Fashion can boast a visionary vein that often plants the seed of change and evolution. And in this era of transition, the Zegna FW 2013 collection imagines for the future a young world immersed in the tides o epochal change.
A groundbreaking energy pulsates throughout the closet, emerging here and there, from the graphic lines of impeccable pinstripes to the “sportified” accents infused into the more formal garments.
The palette is filled with shades of grey that conjure images of a new industrial revolution: asphalt, steel, cement and granite, brightened up with flashes of white and deep green.
Nuances that the Zegna laboratory, always at the vanguard, declined in fabrics that look to the future and epitomized by the Winter ZegnaSilk, a carded silk worked with the cashmere technology on beaver cloths and enriched with Thirties prints and new mélanges.
The design approach is rational: all that is meaningful from the past, both recent and remote, is revisited to create an elegance luxurious as always but also practical and without trappings.
Classically cut coats, made from feather-light spazzolino, the prized alpaca fabric launched by Agnona in the Seventies, are worn over double-breasted and elongated suits, immaculate shirts with refined collars and matching cummerbunds that raise the waistline.
And still, a formality contaminated by a sportier attitude that brings to life jackets and outerwear with sharp architectural proportions in compact fabrics that display a discreet aggressive side via flashes of metal hardware.
Blouson jackets in silk knit or sheared mink and cropped deerskin anoraks, bonded with wool or spazzolino, are worn loosely as sweatshirts. The knitwear is sober, favoring turtlenecks, gilets and cardigans with mixes of micro fantasies and sumptuous “granite effect” cashmere bouclé. Garments that are worn over padded fencer bodices in wool, napa and silk, to surprising effect.
The accessories are ideal for brief trips that are part of the new lifestyle and feature a bold character thanks to compact shaped and the reiteration of the bit in bicolor metal. The solid tapered points shoes are made with hand polished calfskin just like the bags, an array spanning travel bags, hold-alls and computer bags reinforced by handmade piping and featuring handles and pockets on the inside. The glasses have transparent frames, a metal soul and smoky lenses.
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Tags: ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA FW 2013-14, FALL WINTER MEN 2013-14
Mon, February 11 2013 » Fashion Blog
ANGRY YOUNG MEN
Ennio Capasa, designer:
” Anger. A global feeling, dissacrating, prelude to change, an energy I feel pulse through today’s youth. At the end of 50′s this feeling became a shore towards rebellion changing men’s costumes and attitudes. From them on progressing through the 60′s and 70′s, the younger generation repossesses themselves and the world for an instant. I hope it happens again. Soon. Today. Rock and roll! “
Outerwear
60′s tailoring, sartorial construction and military reference. Line cut felt and Japanese technical fabrics, maxi lengths, leather biker.
Knitwear
Seasonal must: bikers combined with maxi knitted cardigans, turtle-neck knits in cachemire, jaquard and angora wool.
Trousers
Two fits: skinny and cropped jogging.
Fabrics
Matched fabrics, “fur effect” and cloth. Cloth and jersey, canvas and lamè. Skinny corded velvet, mixed mohair. Wool with retrò satin armours.
Colors
Ice, electric blue, midnight blue, black.
Accessories
Pochette with zipped compartments, calf leather business bag and maxi bag. Buffed veal leather Beatle boots, laced boots, military boots. David Bowie’s fedora in lapin felt.
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Tags: COSTUME NATIONAL, COSTUME NATIONAL HOMME FW 2013-14, FALL WINTER MEN 2013-14
Sat, February 9 2013 » Fashion Blog
Fri, February 8 2013 » Fashion Blog
Corneliani © Copyright 2013
Fusion style
“What is contemporary style if not a fusion of feelings, places and memories? Corneliani was founded in Mantua over 50 years ago, and this town steeped in art and culture has been a source of inspiration for the whole collection,” explains Sergio Corneliani, the company’s creative director. “Not least the staging by Marzia Migliora, an extraordinary artist who has brought a contemporary twist to the misty landscapes and leaden skies of our autumn seasons. The landscape appears in the background of Andrea Mantegna’s 1462 painting, now on display in the Prado. In the painting one can make out the San Giorgio bridge, which crosses the lagoon around Mantua; to the sides there is an expanse of water lilies, which the artist has reinterpreted with an installation of over 400 leaves made from lead sheet. Her staging symbolises perfectly the link between the past and the present both in art and fashion. After all, today we simply cannot do without the tailored cut of elegant Italian style, the comfort of sportswear, technological fabrics and that touch of flamboyance which makes each look individual. To me, this is fashion fusion.”
And now to the collection: shapes are pared down to the max in the tailored suits, with tapered trousers and soft, light, longer jackets. Colours range from anthracite grey to camel and neutrals to garnet red, a homage to Renaissance decoration. The coats in soft, snug alpaca are decidedly over- sized. Comfortable sportswear is the inspiration for the pea jackets, which feature a double revers in contrasting materials: leather and suede, nappa and bouclé jersey.
Even the classic biker jacket is reworked with a stylish twist and finished off with suede trimming.
In the panel-structured jackets there are plays on inserts and contrasting fabrics.
The strength of the collection lies in knitwear, a symbol of tradition and technological innovation. It is decorated with an interlinked rings motif inspired by the frescoes of the “Bridal Chamber” in Mantua’s Ducal Palace, hand-embroidered, coloured or embellished with ultra-light leather laces. High-tech performance is the byword for the needle-felted pullovers, which blend wool and nappa to create sophisticated geometrical inlays.
The collection’s must-have item is a knitted jacket for both daytime and the evening, cinched at the waist and inspired by a cosy smoking jacket, redesigned here with a sophisticated new look.
For evenings, a black nappa and alpaca blazer is perfect for dandies who never take themselves too seriously!
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Tags: CORNELIANI, CORNELIANI FW 2013-14, FALL WINTER MEN 2013-14
Thu, February 7 2013 » Fashion Blog
This fall, the iconic rebels of springs make way for a new generation of American heroes – the visionaries. The moment is modern. The future belongs to the forward-thinking and all eyes are on the men at the front of the pack.
For F/W 2013, Creative Director Bernardo Rojo channels the energy of the determined daredevils and enterprising leaders who put a man on the moon. Capturing the spirit of the 60′s, a decade that produced the futuristic white curves of the TWA Flight Center and the metallic spacesuits of the Apollo Missions amidst a rich night sky – this season offers a color palette that combines deep dark hues whit incandescent accents. Outwear plays whit volume and technology meets textiles in tailored suits, ushering in a new era of American menswear.
The next frontier in near and it’s the visionaries who will claim it. The men whit the keenest foresight and the bravery to leap where others would step. This is the season for innovation.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2013-14, JOSEPH ABBOUD, JOSEPH ABBOUD FW 2013-14, Pitti Immagine
Wed, February 6 2013 » Fashion Blog
White Mountaineering © Copyright 2013
WHITE MOUNTAINEERING
is the Pitti Discovery Special Project
One, design. Two, function. Three, technology. This is White Mountaineering’s motto, the Japanese brand designed by Yosuke Aizawa that Pitti Discovery presented a preview of at Pitti Uomo 83, thanks also to the work of Tomorrow and Stefano Martinetto. With White Mountaineering, Pitti Discovery continued its goal to discover and present the most innovative phenomena in fashion, those related to the languages of contemporary experimentation. White Mountaineering debuted on the European scene with an original and powerful menswear presentation that masterfully mixed tradition with technical fabrics, design, and great character.
“I am so glad to be able to participate to an event as big as PITTI”, says Yosuke Aizawa, the designer and founder of White Mountaineering. “I appreciate their generosity in choosing White Mountaineering even though we are based in Tokyo and not present overseas that much. What are men’s clothes in everyday mainstream’s fashion? We have been thinking of what could be achieved within this frame. Men’s fashion way of thinking, expressing and dressing has so much freedom.
Without forgetting the above, for this PITTI show I would be so happy if we could achieve to express what we have been feeling and enjoying”.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2013-14, Pitti Immagine, WHITE MOUNTAINEERING, WHITE MOUNTAINEERING FW 2013-14
Thu, January 31 2013 » Fashion Blog
Kenzo © Copyright 2013
KENZO MENSWEAR FALL/WINTER 2013
THE JUNGLE OF THE SKY
Kenzo men’s collection fall/winter 2013 is an exploration of the skies, inflected by ancient mythologies of the mystical world above.
The collection merges the urbanized modern world on the ground with the boundless heavens.
A celestial theme pervades the prints: daytime and nighttime clouds, lightning bolts, raindrops and stars appear throughout the collection.
Double-breasted “pilot” coats and cabans create a distinguished masculine figure, while trousers are skinny and have an effect of parachute fabrics in nylon.
Voluminous jackets, evoking the imagined touch of cumulus clouds are paired with tailored pants for a silhouette that floats on the body yet is grounded by elegant structure.
The silhouette of an asian warrior, a recurrent figure in mythical battles, is introduced through the absence of lapels on wrapped coats and jackets.
The Kenzo tiger is reincarnated as a double-headed flying creature and is joined by dragons and serpents, who populate the sky jungle.
Moleskin, chevron, gabardine, felted jacquards, and multicolored tweeds elevate the nonchalant yet controlled masculine jackets.
The patchwork on boots and dress shoes is inspired by the graphic lines of airplanes. An observation on pilots soaring through the air, riding the sky, masters of the clouds.
ACCESSORIES
Kenzo continues its collaborations with Delfina Delettrez and introduces mens jewelry in the main themes of the collection.
Lightning bolt the pins and fasteners adorn the shirts and ties and complement the metal handkerchiefs tucked away in the breast pocket of the elegant coats.
Kenzo partners with Boblbee, a bag company that specializes in backpacks and crossbody bags with hard shells made for protecting your possessions on any journey.
For the runway collection, Kenzo and Boblbee created laptop cases, pouches, and backpacks that feature the unique prints of the collection.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2013-14, KENZO, KENZO FW 2013-14, Pitti Immagine
Fri, January 25 2013 » Fashion Blog
Ermanno Scervino © Copyright 2013
FALL WINTER 2013/14
MEN’S COLLECTION – WOMEN’S PRECOLLECTION AN EXCITING CREATIVE APPROACH
An exciting creative approach and a profoundly remodelled line of research that reconsiders, recomposes and reinvents the very roots of the expressive world of Ermanno Scervino. Two collections for the Florentine Maison – the woman’s Pre-collection F/W 2013-14 and the men’s F/W Collection – that intersect and counterpoise each other on a harmonious keynote, paced out by tonal references, hyper-contemporary suggestions and strong analogies. All these come together in a single major show, played out in the austere Mannerist space of the Salone dei Cinquecento in Palazzo Vecchio, the most authentic and emblematic soul of the City of the Lily. It is indeed precisely the Florentine lily, with all its proud symbolic impact and its timeless, stylised geometric elegance, that features on some of the items that Ermanno Scervino has conceived, underscoring the significance of this tribute to the infinite artistic riches, the beauty and the potent capacity of inspiration of the Tuscan capital where the Maison has its premises. Ermanno Scervino never tires of stressing the vital importance to his work of the direct comparison with the perfect landscape of the Tuscan countryside, with the pure, Humanist light that vibrantly sketches the contours of the stunning hills, the painterly horizons and lush fields. Over sixty appearances on the runway in a show that meshes two languages of different styles and lineage albeit in this specific case in the most staggeringly close dialogue.
For the coming F/W season the Scervino man looks unhesitatingly towards the very mould of the tradition of man’s tailoring. But he does so with a jaunty and extremely youthful elegance that blends austerity and humour in dynamic, ultra-slender shapes, with restrained, almost elusive revers for the jackets, figure-hugging styles that define the body, mellow rock reflexes on masterful grisailles, supported by slightly stretch neoprene weaves. Easy-going early 60s charm, with “Dolce Vita” nuances for the ties, with a hint of casual intellectual refinement. The play of opposites in unusual materials and textures: suede and shiny lacquered fabrics, flannel and bird’s eye weaves that dialogue naturally with precise sporty citations, that disturb and play uncompromising havoc with the aesthetic codes and canons of this new modernity. Blazers that mingle with masterful knitwear, created through precious sometimes manual processes, contrast knit mesh overlaid on raglan pullovers, the overcoat in supersoft black leather that looks like cloth and reveals a flagrantly technological core. Full total black velvet edged with a dandyish piping in grosgrain for evening, when the pure white, essential, composite and highly-structured shirt plays the lead role. Scervino’s colour palette is resolved in practically a trio of greys, declined in shades verging from lead to a light, impalpable and aerial tone and absolute black with precious veinings of blue light. A diktat that is contradicted here and there and enhanced only by the enlivening rhythm of burgundy. Amazing hats: felts evoking the aura of adventure, and comfortable distinctly masculine shoes, with rounded shapes and toes.
The Ermanno Scervino F/W 2013-14 Women’s Pre-collection is an authentic firework display. The quintessentially feminine language that has always characterised Scervino’s poetics here becomes essential, returns to its most intimate core and a distinctly pure emanation, to the potent joy of the design. The lines map the body, tracing its contours, at once soft and concise. Fourreau in black leather, in cognac suede, palazzo pyjamas opting for a male “must” such as grisaille, or garbing themselves in luminous ivory wool, giving life to a passe-partout timeless chic. Python dissolves to be magically recomposed in symmetrical ranks and ranks following the natural patterns, alternated with the impalpable lightness of organza. Leather is embellished with embroideries and floral and phytomorphic openwork, dramatic inserts, a hymn to sensuality. And then lace, delicate and suffused, masterfully tinged with secret dyes to create the incredible softness of a precious vintage effect. And once again here we have a staging of material opposites, combined with a colour range that from black to pure whites and grey stretches through to the distilled opalescent nuance of “ash pink”. Behind the relentless and prodigious creativity of Ermanno Scervino is a peerless universe of skilled hands, most of them female, an amazing and cohesive craft expertise that is heir to a secular practice, knowledge and aesthetics. A unique human and professional heritage that allows the dream to come true, that transforms the cipher of the creative expression, the basic idea, the genesis of an artistic temperament, into something tangible and real.
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Tags: ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO FW 2013-14, FALL WINTER MEN 2013-14, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2013-14, Pitti Immagine
Tue, January 22 2013 » Fashion Blog
Mon, January 21 2013 » Fashion Blog
