Tue, May 31 2016 » Fashion Blog
DAMIR DOMA FALL WINTER 2016-17 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
In a symbolic location, Damir Doma proposes a collection bound by sculptural strength, drawing upon the memories & moods of a perennial muse. Fabric works envelope the body in fundamental exercises of draping and repair. As kundera attributes ‘slowness’ to the act of remembering, and speed to the act of forgetting, so the collection considers an equilibrium of the travaillé and the untouched.
The cocooned, trapeze silhouette layers a long, straight jacket and a high neckline over wide, short trousers or a fluid skirt to continue an inherent dialogue between the codes of mens and womenswear. Solid colours warm from black and bone white through deep forest green, caramel, cherry, and prussian blue. Belted kimono coats accentuate a pure line, whilst contoured overcoats are dotted with horn buttons and veiled in fringed wool voile.
A timeworn effect touches garments with delicate and brutal details: selvedge traces pockets, zips, and hems on bomber and parka coats, whilst raw seams frame tailoring in waxed leather and wool. Applied to dry jersey, blotches of overprinted japanese paper isolates the same abstract expressionism as rich brushstroke jacquards and a fil coupé prince-of-wales check stamped with crude ellipses.
Rollneck sweaters and a column dress are cinched with cotton tape (like wide sutures) and softened by the speckled melange of inside-out ribbed cashmere knit. On foot, zipped neoprene boots have been edged in rough suede.
Tue, May 24 2016 » Fashion Blog
CANALI FALL WINTER 2016-17 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
“There is so much of the world that we don’t actually perceive and I wanted to explore this concept for the new season. As in architecture, every detail, both inside and out, was carefully calculated to craft the perfect balance between practicality and style.” (Andrea Pompilio)
For FW16, Canali presents a collection that is an exercise in equilibrium, one in which contrasts take center stage. Luxurious and studied elements come together for a seemingly minimalist look as shapes, materials and colors are combined in unique and purposeful ways.
Tartan and checks in varying dimensions appear in suits, pants and outerwear. Silhouettes tend to follow the body’s natural contours while sleeves, pant legs, collars and lapels slim down for a contemporary take on traditional tailoring. Voluminous coats conceal an unexpectedly lightweight air, thanks to an extremely soft wool and alpaca blend whose longhaired nish adds a layer of unique texture to a menswear classic.
Wool features prominently throughout the rest of the collection in the form of heavy gabardines for suits, jackets, pants, coats and sportswear. An extremely compact and extremely smooth cotton velvet makes appearances in select coats and aviator jackets. Pony hair is also a noteworthy new addition, in various colors and mixed with leather to create textural distinctions.
The palette takes on a shadowy and industrial air, dominated by blacks, blues, browns and grays and illuminated by bursts of vibrant shades like brick, peach, burgundy and mustard yellow. Ultra-slim scarves are knotted as ties while long leather and wool gloves are a natural continuation of sleeves. Rugged loafers and work boots with buckles and oversized travel bags and smooth padded backpacks with tumbled leather straps complete the accessory selection.
Shirt collars are in contrast; suits feature an updated closure with one visible button and two hidden ones; belts are integrated via oversized loops directly into pants and coats, which are rendered even more practical by double pockets on each side that blend style and utility.
Sat, May 21 2016 » Fashion Blog
Fri, May 20 2016 » Fashion Blog
Fri, May 13 2016 » Fashion Blog
MARNI FALL WINTER 2016-17 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
Passing by and getting close. The Marni collection for fall 2016 has a pervasive sense of movement, ease and intimacy. The silhouette is soft and elegant: clothes flow loosely around the body, as if the fabric was draped or wrapped with minimum interventions.
Wrap-around coats have high slits that create mobile lines. A funnel-neck parka folds with graphic firmness, secured with snap buttons. Raw cuts highlight fragility and strength. Gathered-neck shirts are closed on the back and layered. V-neck wool blouses have frontal outsized pockets.
Buttonless shirts are wrapped on the chest, naturally. Hints of dry romanticism: a broken cuff; broken promise flower prints, cloud motifs. Double breasted coats fall vertically. Single pleat trousers of generous volume are gathered with a button on the ankle, drawing a gentle contour.
Fur provides texture: astrakhan, castorino. The castorino scarf completes the easy precision of the tailored suit. Balance is studiously unbalanced: shirts that get longer on the front; a flash of white buttons on the jacket with patch pockets and a high closure.
Inside-out construction are unexpected as they are pragmatic. Caps and sneakers contradict the elegance of the silhouettes, softly. Firm yet light fabrics carry the exact lines while flowing effortlessly: cotton poplin, wool fresco, double-faced felt, gabardine, viscose twill.
The palette is classic: an instinctive mix of blues, greys, military greens, burgundy, ochre and light blue. Pinstripes run on shirting and suiting. The studious edit of elements and details projects calm. The message is up close and personal.
Mon, May 9 2016 » Fashion Blog
Mon, May 2 2016 » Fashion Blog
LES HOMMES FALL WINTER 2016-17 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
An urban gang of friends. A group of bikers that decide to embark on a long journey. The destination is the African continent, filled with suggestions, inspirations and excitement. During their travel, the bikers elevate themselves, discover tribes and traditions and make their own and contribute in their personal way. This is the journey of Les Hommes for the Fall Winter 2016-17 Collection.
Following the path traced by their bikers, Creative Directors Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, bring to the runway a crescendo of exoticisms. Starting from a monochrome urban environment, to gradually move towards an essential yet permanent tribalism, the collection features great menswear classics inspired by the world of motorcycles.
Perfecto jackets in total black, bomber jackets and performance fabric pants gradually shift away from the rigor of the city to play with voodoo-inspired graphics to reach the boundaries of op-art. It is a world in which hardware details often recur. Showers of studs on shirts, suits and bomber jackets are inspired by primitive body modifications that bestow a sophisticated yet rough touch.
Layers of wools and oversize scarves recall the richness and the layering of Central Africa costumes. All fabrics are unique and exclusive. From 3D jacquard to leather appliqués, bonding techniques and inlayed jersey, the creative duo studied every single detail with artisanal know how.
The ending is almost pop, filled with colors and multi-material 3D geometries with a hint of fine couture inspiration. White, black and grey are the basic colors of an essential palette among which cobalt blue, previously seen on models’ hair, creeps in.
Accessories are minimized. No bags in this long journey. Just studded gloves and bandanas. And solid black boots in a clean or studded version.
Tue, April 19 2016 » Fashion Blog
ROBERTO CAVALLI FALL WINTER 2016-17 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
‘REAL OPULENCE’
In his first menswear collection for Roberto Cavalli creative director Peter Dundas establishes a blueprint for the new Cavalli man, proposing a wardrobe for the twenty-first century dandy. The fall 2016 collection is the first step inside his wardrobe – a mix, a melange, a melding of casual and tailored elements, juxtaposing the precious and the everyday. This is clothing you can believe in, but still fantasise about. An homage to opulence, but also to reality.
The collection is infused with the freedom of the late sixties and early seventies: sensual, sexual, divinely decadent. Exploring the symbiosis between Cavalli’s clothing and the performance wardrobe of the world’s greatest rock stars, Peter Dundas references emblematic images of his own musical heroes: Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, Jimmy Page, George Harrison, Gram Parsons and Serge Gainsbourg.
They epitomise the era’s fusion of elegance and extravagance, a fluid sexuality that never less had nothing androgynous about it. The fall 2016 Cavalli man is presented as a rock icon, his masculinity made even more potent by the touches of femininity in his attire. The mood is of bohemia. The collection riffs on a new Cavalli menswear vernacular, pulling archetypal pieces from the Cavalli archives, but reinvigorating them with a contemporary energy. Animal prints, intricately worked furs, embroideries inspired by the orient and India, decoration in abundance. All are present, endlessly mixed, but given the nonchalant attitude of today.
The palette is muted: bitter chocolate and rust, dusty rose, sepia and tobacco, embedded with jewel tones: ameythst, emerald and ruby. Dark tweeds are threaded with peridot green and kingfisher blue, contrasted with supple silks, metallic lamé, and the glimmer of sequins, even for day. The silhouette is long and lean, trousers flaring slightly, shoulders narrow, jackets elongated, coats dusting the calves. Traditional gentleman’s suiting in wool and tweed is combined with jacquards and prints referencing the work of William Morris. Flora and fauna invade classic patterns like polka-dot shirts or fair isle knits, with darting dragonflies and wriggling snakes.
Cavalli’s signature big cat prints are once more in abundance, joined by patterns derived from trompe-l’oeil kimono embroideries, and foulard silks cut into fluid lounging pyjama styles. Those add a hint of loucheness to the wardrobe. They are worn for evening – but never in bed. Roberto Cavalli’s expertise in leather is showcased in patchwork jackets of precious snake, or embroidered calf, the patterned extended to sneakers and chelsea boots embroidered with recreations of the organic prints in leather applique. Fur – faux and real – add touches of unapologetic luxury.
Peter Dundas has always been inspired by the powerful, sensual women to whom Cavalli’s masculine icons are inevitably drawn: he showcases a selection of his pre-fall 2016 Roberto Cavalli womenswear collection alongside the men, further emphasising the unity of the house’s new creative spirit. These models meander through the grandeur of the Palazzo Crespi – a palazzo/casa, or museum-home, its opulent beauty is nevertheless resolutely part of the real world. Just like the wardrobe of the Robert Cavalli man, and woman.
Mon, April 18 2016 » Fashion Blog
Fri, April 15 2016 » Fashion Blog
