The worlds of Hampshire, England, and eighteenth century Venice collide in an equestrian dimension – this is the realm of inspiration for the upcoming Ermanno Scervino Fall/Winter Collection. Statuesque dimensions merge with super feminine elements, making the waistline this collection’s key element.
Egg shapes, frock-coats, tulip shapes are the new forms that cinch the waist and trace the torso, offering us dresses, quilted jackets, overcoats and jackets in crêpe, plunge nappa leather and double-faced wool – faced with neoprene – with a tailored fit characterized by a soft shoulder and pronounced collars.
Macramé reigns on coats and jackets for next winter, paired with maxi-houndstooth crêpe, or with felt and then given a worn look. It also is needlepunched in soft mohair shirts or appears in easy-to-wear dresses or shrug jackets.
Mixed light grey and anthracite-grey flannel bodices and bustiers pair with hip-hugging knee-length skirts or cropped boiled wool sport jackets and become the alternative to crocheted oversized pullovers and chiffon or silk cloqué blouses with built-in bustier.
Parkas turn up with fur stitch, and when they appear in men’s fabrics, are embellished with grey/off-white jacquard knit insets. The detailing and fabric of the uniforms, revamped through tailored lines and the application of fur, express military style in the language of couture. Leopard print fur with the application of knitting for shrug jackets and overshirt.
Evening
Velvet and play of organza layers for the bustier minidresses. Long dresses with lace or lace/sequin transparencies.
Accessories
Gold and palladium rock star jewelry.
Stretch leather calf-boots, pumps, sandals and wedges in iridescent velvet.
Worn gold lamé paired with macramé for boots and bags. New take on the Faubourg bag with crocheting and warp knit.
Colors
Camel, brown, black, the shades of green, nude and midnight blue.
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2012-13, ERMANNO SCERVINO FALL WINTER 2012-2013, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13
ROCK ROYAL
Ermanno Scervino brings us the Rock Royal style for next winter. Modern Italian sartorial craftsmanship meets English inspiration. Argyle knitwear and stripes under tailored garments.
The House’s exclusive fabrics and the stretch boiled wool are the centerpieces of fitted yet soft jackets and overcoats. Experimentation of new comfortable knit fabrics doubled with plain knit.
The check prints -from Prince of Wales to micro and maxi houndstooth– blend together pairing perfectly on coats, jackets and scarves. Similarly, the worn cotton parkas are doubled in Kalgan fur with argyle insets. The sporty jackets in Prince of Wales check or houndstooth with plunge nappa leather detailing trade off with double worked, woollen cloth tailored coats with visible selvedge. The military inspired woollen cloth outerwear is raw cut with patches and contrast stitching.
Toying with mix and match, the loose, high collar shirts present unusual pairings of stripes and rhombuses, at times resembling jackets, but worked with knitting needles, or at others, appearing as cardigans with fur stitch collars. The white pant becomes the guiding line of next winter’s new look.
Black for evening. Double cloth coats and tuxedo jackets with plastron and lapels in velvet and satin. Jackets marry pilor with macramè yielding a worn effect as the result of being crafted by hand.
The shirts are white with pleats and ribbing. The silk scarf is black and white striped.
Accessories: scarves in special hides and velvet with an aged look, as well as new ankle boots in goat fur.
Scarves in the collection’s fabrics or in double suede with cashmere/silk knit.
Colors: melange and anthracite greys, army green, shades of burnt brown, blues and blacks. Hints of light blue on the inside of the technical bomber jackets and the Oxford shirts. Points of red and yellow on the finishing of coats and shirts.
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2012-13, ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2012-13 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13
