ROCK ROYAL
Ermanno Scervino brings us the Rock Royal style for next winter. Modern Italian sartorial craftsmanship meets English inspiration. Argyle knitwear and stripes under tailored garments.
The House’s exclusive fabrics and the stretch boiled wool are the centerpieces of fitted yet soft jackets and overcoats. Experimentation of new comfortable knit fabrics doubled with plain knit.
The check prints -from Prince of Wales to micro and maxi houndstooth– blend together pairing perfectly on coats, jackets and scarves. Similarly, the worn cotton parkas are doubled in Kalgan fur with argyle insets. The sporty jackets in Prince of Wales check or houndstooth with plunge nappa leather detailing trade off with double worked, woollen cloth tailored coats with visible selvedge. The military inspired woollen cloth outerwear is raw cut with patches and contrast stitching.
Toying with mix and match, the loose, high collar shirts present unusual pairings of stripes and rhombuses, at times resembling jackets, but worked with knitting needles, or at others, appearing as cardigans with fur stitch collars. The white pant becomes the guiding line of next winter’s new look.
Black for evening. Double cloth coats and tuxedo jackets with plastron and lapels in velvet and satin. Jackets marry pilor with macramè yielding a worn effect as the result of being crafted by hand.
The shirts are white with pleats and ribbing. The silk scarf is black and white striped.
Accessories: scarves in special hides and velvet with an aged look, as well as new ankle boots in goat fur.
Scarves in the collection’s fabrics or in double suede with cashmere/silk knit.
Colors: melange and anthracite greys, army green, shades of burnt brown, blues and blacks. Hints of light blue on the inside of the technical bomber jackets and the Oxford shirts. Points of red and yellow on the finishing of coats and shirts.
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2012-13, ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2012-13 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13
Fri, January 27 2012 » Fashion Blog
BOHEMIANS AND DREAMERS
Remix attitude trench coats, tailoring jackets with knitwear back panels. Biker jackets combined with coats, half trenches half bomber jackets, knitwear and leather garments.
Blended trough thermowelding and needing, mohair details on tuxedos and tubular knitwear on the back.
Shirts double twisted cotton with knitwear collar, fabrics paired with jersey. Micropattern e microcheck.
Two fits of pants: skinny and cropped carrot ankle cut.
Fabrics double face, mohair fusion and contrasting cloth, right side drawn and overdyed backside. Jersey, cotton, flannel, fustian and felt with printed check and knitted needing, british taste mohair for the formal side.
Colors: ice, dusty grey, bordeaux, octane, anthracite grey, navy and black.
Bags and Shoes with deer, calf and horse leather with raw cut trim, leather mixed with fabric, merge with silicone lining.
Clutch transforming into shopping bag with metallic and plastic handles.
Three models of shoes: derby, beatles and ankle boots with high rubber sole and leather. Palladium stainless toe.
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, COSTUME NATIONAL, COSTUME NATIONAL HOMME F/W 2012-13, COSTUME NATIONAL HOMME F/W 2012-13 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13
Sat, January 21 2012 » Fashion Blog
The Great Gatsby: the power of style
A cashmere trench coat tied at the waist over an extremely elegant strictly white double-breasted suit. In anticipation of the remake of The Great Gatsby, Corneliani re-inteprets the elegance of the great Don Juan with the power of a contemporary sartorial style and meticulous attention to details, starting with the bag and shoes to match in tweed, Prince of Wales and cashmere.
A touch of high style that reinforces the collection’s philosophy: a contemporary “custom-made” tailoring to focus upon that will win the hearts of consumer and emphasize the brand’s point of origin.
For the Fall-Winter 2012 collection, the must have is the cashmere knitted suit that highlights a style which is increasingly relaxed, confident and unstructured while still observing tradition. Double-breasted models are more slim-fitted and less formal; topcoats are long and fluid; the contours of suits are unquestionably subtler.
Optical and the “new” black with a glossy woollen tone that create a luminous chromatic effect.
For those special touches of eccentricity: a sheared mink jacket – as soft and light as velvet – for a very special evening, a knit and fur poncho or a sport-chic heavy jacket.
For freezing temperatures, patchwork sheepskin with fabric details: easy wear that is bold, informal and sophisticated.
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, CORNELIANI, CORNELIANI F/W 2012, CORNELIANI F/W 2012 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13
Sat, January 21 2012 » Fashion Blog
Fri, January 20 2012 » Fashion Blog
The Valentino maison returns to Florence where the story began in 1962. A fine thread links past and present, the Sala Bianca and Palazzo Corsini: a tribute to men’s Couture becomes an opportunity to look to the future, aware of a glorious tradition.
The style is sleek and timeless. Inovation is inspired by the past, and authenticity is a value. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli compose the pieces of an iconographic sartorial collection that. establishes contemporary masculinity without confining it within a formula.
The rigorous aesthetic comes from the technique: from cuts, construction, and a savoir faire that is constantly updated. It focuses on details and particular aspects that may not be seen a first glance. Subtleness is the salient trait of the Valentino man and his understand, unconscious elegance.
A modernist mood – in pursuit of clarity and simplicity – permeates the Fall/Winter 2012-13 collection. The silhouette is sharp. The process of concise editing is translated into a modular wardrobe: archetypal garments that are in the eyes and DNA of men, from the suit to the loden coat, are restyled by rebelliously toying with the rules of apparent normalcy. The loud-mouthed culture is replaced by whispers: true luxury today is talking the people who chosen to listen.
Architectural shapes, with affirmative aplomb, are achieved through subtraction weight and anything unnecessary are eliminated. Couture and sportswear techniques are combined to create a news stylistic languages that is sartorial and dynamic. The construction are combined to create a news stylistic language that is the sartorial and dynamic. The construction can be seen underneath the fabric: The compact line of jackets is obtained through fabric bonded the horsehair facings, not to the lining. Heat-bonded tape replaces seams on shirts. Slim-fit darted trousers have a razor pleat and are ankle-lenght. Outerwear has a sleek, pure line: fitted peacoats have a small shoulders and the carcoat has more volume at the back. The color of cashmere sweaters with a jersey base underlines the sum of the parts and creates impalpable volumes. Back collars and details on the deep blue tuxedo create unusual embellishments that quickly bring to mind the hedonistic nightlife of Rome in the sixties.
A subtle sense of surprise runs through the collection with two-tones ties, constructivist prints, and unusual combinations.
Materials are precious and compact felt, wool/silk barathea, wool and nylon blends, dry cotton, Japanese denim, and leather. The color palette suggest urban camouflage: masculine gray nuances – from stone gray to metal – and virile shades of blue are interrupted by offbeat splashes of red-black, forest green and beige.
The search for soft precision continues in accessories: leather clutches and totes, sleek Oxford shoes, and enameled metal sunglasses.
The collection’s visione of precise style express subtly subversive elegance that is sophisticated yet free of frills and with a sartorial couture approach, because refreshingly light simplicity is always invisible to the eye but clearly makes the difference.
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, Pitti Immagine, VALENTINO FW 2012-13, VALENTINO GARAVANI
Fri, January 20 2012 » Fashion Blog
Charlotte Rampling’s contemporary alternative style creates a connection between concepts of sportswear and sensuality. For a sport-chic collection embracing the many facets and nuances of an up-to-date sensuality.
Black&white dualism is offset by primary color blocks: yellow, red, blue.
Graphic floral pop-ups decorate clean silhouettes.
Double print fabrics are supremely feminine: crepe de chine, hammered satin, cady silk.
The brand’s original iconic pop figures and images team up with sensual recherché knits, where warp and woof in silk cordonetto serve to fashion exquisitely light and slinky items.
Sculptural and stiletto-style heels, flower-jewelry in cellophane, colorful envelope-bags in plastic & python have fun adding definition to a nonconformist idea of sensuality.
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, ICEBERG, ICEBERG SS 2012 WOMEN, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2012
Thu, October 6 2011 » Fashion Blog
It is said for centuries that if the body is healthy so is the mind. And if, so for the sake of updating the concept, we tried to say “Fashion for a healthy body healthy”? Because, healthy also means beauty.
This is what the Moschino Cheap and Chic collection which, not coincidentally, is set in a market with stalls of fruit and vegetables, reflecting a newfound need for simple beauty of nature.
The protagonists of this mise en scene are the natural Lawn Dress, Sea Dress, Sun Dress, Rainbow Dress (which has two names for Peace) and the Strawberry Dress, characters of a fashion that leads to a new newspaper recovering ancient thought: the natural beauty radiates from the simplicity.
And here are the prints of vegetables on a silk twill dress, the strawberries on a silk chiffon, the ears of corn on a linen-cotton. And peppers and garlic are the buckle that turns into raffia belt, buttons or other vegetables that become decorations for shoes wedge, whose band is a fork.
Even the accessories, a variant on the theme that nature is even more fun: the foot appears naked while trampling the lawn – complete with daisies – that has moved on top of a wedge sandal, but the lawn seems to be also bag closed of enamel from a daisy or a “weather prediction”. And it provides a brilliant sun.
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC SS 2012, MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC SS 2012 WOMEN, MOSCHINO CHEAP AND CHIC, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2012
Tue, October 4 2011 » Fashion Blog
DSQUARED2 DEANDANSBURY ROCK SUMMER FESTIVAL 2012
From London to Glastonbury, Dsquared²’s American boy decides to follow his English lover to the Glastonbury Festival of Contemporary Performing Arts before going back home to the United States.
Rock chicks and boho-hippies, muses of a new shabby chic couture, move to the beat of music on a runway covered with mud, strongly evocative of this epic music festival.
Utility jackets, men’s shirts, tribal chic long dresses with raffia embroidery, denim hot pants, waterproof parkas and rain boots take the stage. Wild chicks rock out by mixing style indie inspired pieces together with indie and grunge elements: a unique “very Glasto-style”.
Prints and fabrics: sparkly animal prints and the American flag.
Lengths: extremely short or extremely long.
Accessories: festival wrist bands, colorful cotton foulards, “flappies” hats (Seventies) or masculine ones, mirrored shades in flashy colors, fringes, fringes and once again more fringes on gilets, jackets and on the strap of The Manitoba, Dsquared2’s new it bag.
Shoes: Versatile cheerful heel rainboots for the day and night, all made of rubber and treated to have a particular mud-like effect. A similar treatment was created for the jean fabrics custom made for Madonna’s “Drowned World Tour” in 2001.
Colors: vivid and crazy just like the crowd! Banners, ribbons and curtains wave to the sound of rock. Yellow, orange, magenta, purple, turquoise and grass green. As drops of rain start to hit the stage and the grass, the greens become browns. It’s raining but who cares: We ♥ MUD!
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Tags: BACKSTAGE, DSQUARED2, DSQUARED2 SS 2012, DSQUARED2 SS 2012 WOMEN, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2012
Mon, October 3 2011 » Fashion Blog
CAR JE EST UN AUTRE
The ritual of Claire and Solange, Genet’s Maids, takes place each night in a small, stuffy room that is their stage. The two sisters, who love and hate their mistress, play Madame when she is away. They take turns dressing in her clothes, imitating and mimicking her. They pretend to be a part of her vie en rose, and at the end of each daily ritual, they attempt to kill her but fail. lllusion and reality, truth and fantasy, true and false overlap and blend in a cruel game taken to the extreme.
Car je est an autre, Rimbaud would say. Each person is what she is, but above all, what she can and would like to be: a peasant or a grand dame, a lady or a servant. Each invents her own transformations. Claire and Solange always switch roles: they transform themselves and briefly live a life denied them, where life is theater and theater is life. Dualism, transformation, change, multiplication, excess, and derailment of the final destination of an object are at basis of this work. Two paths are followed, inspired by Madame, Claire, and Solange.
On one hand, the elegance and figure of the femme fatale Madame – the seductive idol with dazzling beauty and allure, adored and destroyed – are exasperated and emphasized. Fine fabrics, brilliant colors ranging from emerald green to magenta, white, ecru and black, and exquisite details evoke and emphasize a world that is often denied but lives on in one’s imagination.
On the other hand, a rejected frock that wants to escape its destiny is bedazzled, dressed in colors and covered with contrasts of light, sophisticated asymmetric details, unusual combinations of fabrics, original appliqués, intarsia and ornaments to claim its right to exist and to live and dream. The humble garment is embellished, embroidered, and enhanced.
Unusual shapes and decorations transform it into something else: a dress, skirt, jacket, or trousers. The Maids sneak up to their mistress’s wardrobe. Rummaging through it with curiosity and awe, they blend, restyle, cut, sew, embroider, and apply details of elegant party dresses on their simple frocks.
The poor, modest, plain work uniform vibrantly comes to life and expresses new energy, revealing unexpected elegance, bursting with myriad colors and shapes that create another image and life that was denied until now. lt is a new, sumptuous,
magnificent, dazzling evening gown: Madame’s dress that we can all be, for an entire lifetime or for just a game.
…it’s my turn to be MADAME!
Jean Genet
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Tags: ANTONIO MARRAS, ANTONIO MARRAS SS 2012, ANTONIO MARRAS SS 2012 WOMEN, BACKSTAGE, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2012
Sun, October 2 2011 » Fashion Blog
Wed, September 28 2011 » Fashion Blog
