ANTEPRIMA FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Scent Allure
Indulge in the enchanting allure of sensuous scent and shimmer in eternal radiance.
Experience the Anteprima’s join the vivre exuberance. Be mesmerized by hidden sequins, muted jacquard and all that demurely glitters, echoing a sinuous expression of understated lavishness.
A season dominated by cropped, voluminous, textured knit, pairing with high waist pencil skirts creating a layered, relaxed and elongated silhouette.
Reinterpret the proportion with sculpted forms, asymmetric shapes and irregular hems in a fluid and ultra feminine mannerism.
Merging a wide array of luxurious yet contrasting materials, in lustrous silk, rich brocades, lush cashmere, voile like alpaca , chunky wool and lurex jacquard, emphasizing the notion of nonchalant decadence, echoing the contrast in your daily life.
Palettes are rich, sensual and autumnal, frolic in green, gold, white and a glimpse of silver.
Sober and refined shoes play on light and dark, moll and shine materials with intricate detail.

(more…)

Tags: ANTEPRIMA, ANTEPRIMA F/W 2012-13, ANTEPRIMA FALL WINTER 2012-2013, BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13

ERMANNO SCERVINO FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

The worlds of Hampshire, England, and eighteenth century Venice collide in an equestrian dimension – this is the realm of inspiration for the upcoming Ermanno Scervino Fall/Winter Collection. Statuesque dimensions merge with super feminine elements, making the waistline this collection’s key element.
Egg shapes, frock-coats, tulip shapes are the new forms that cinch the waist and trace the torso, offering us dresses, quilted jackets, overcoats and jackets in crêpe, plunge nappa leather and double-faced wool – faced with neoprene – with a tailored fit characterized by a soft shoulder and pronounced collars.
Macramé reigns on coats and jackets for next winter, paired with maxi-houndstooth crêpe, or with felt and then given a worn look. It also is needlepunched in soft mohair shirts or appears in easy-to-wear dresses or shrug jackets.
Mixed light grey and anthracite-grey flannel bodices and bustiers pair with hip-hugging knee-length skirts or cropped boiled wool sport jackets and become the alternative to crocheted oversized pullovers and chiffon or silk cloqué blouses with built-in bustier.
Parkas turn up with fur stitch, and when they appear in men’s fabrics, are embellished with grey/off-white jacquard knit insets. The detailing and fabric of the uniforms, revamped through tailored lines and the application of fur, express military style in the language of couture. Leopard print fur with the application of knitting for shrug jackets and overshirt.
Evening
Velvet and play of organza layers for the bustier minidresses. Long dresses with lace or lace/sequin transparencies.
Accessories
Gold and palladium rock star jewelry.
Stretch leather calf-boots, pumps, sandals and wedges in iridescent velvet.
Worn gold lamé paired with macramé for boots and bags. New take on the Faubourg bag with crocheting and warp knit.
Colors
Camel, brown, black, the shades of green, nude and midnight blue.

(more…)

Tags: BACKSTAGE, ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2012-13, ERMANNO SCERVINO FALL WINTER 2012-2013, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13

SERGIO ZAMBON FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Party esprit
The Fall/Winter collection is a cocktail of eastern folk, 40’s/70’s inspiration garments with a touch of surrealism.
Outerwear and sport-couture garments, like the snorkel, in technical fabrics decorated and coupled with elegant cocktail and evening dresses with a rétro, upper-class feel.
A play-on Gordon Matta-Clark style portholes creates unexpected openings and invisible groove fastenings which reveal the collection’s tailoring wisdom.
Appliqué and neo-liberty decorations for the small technical coat and the folk-style husky, both of them reversible with double colour and embroidery effect.
Embroideries made with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS and appliqué embroidered with carpet stitch graphics give these garments the value of a unique, single piece. The colour palette is a harmony of instinct: pure and vibrant tones ranging from electric and thick blue to poudre and army green. A measured touch of white and black along with thin, contrasting-colour lines which follow the shapes and define the lines enhancing the silhouette.
Surrealistic inspiration and craftsmanship details for the accessories collection. Elegant “milliner” hats are strictly hand-made: from cotillon models to veils on hairbands ending with a fur coppola cap. Footwear include day and evening pumps with off-white, asymmetric profiles and evening sandals with a single maxi felt bow.
A famed quotation of the Palazzo Pyjamas, made in animalier Jacquard pays homage to Irene Galitzine’s icon style.

(more…)

Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, SERGIO ZAMBON, SERGIO ZAMBON FALL WINTER 2012-2013, SERGIO ZAMBON FW 2012-13

PAOLA FRANI FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Changing roles, role play, an “à la garçonne” disposition.
She’s the Paola Frani F/W 12-13 tomboy.
The ladylike look can be seen in many aspects. The positive and negative sides of a tailor-made style. She has a clean, super-sophisticated silhouette: her allure, played out using masculine, has all the charm of ambiguity.
High waist trousers and ultra-fine pussy-bow blouses, tops with plunging necklines under sartorial jackets, cut out star shapes of masculine pinstripe jersey on ultra-tight dresses. Strong dualism and contrast: the strongest, black & white, can be seen on the interwoven lame’ of the mink jacket and the dappled fox fur.
Bright, Fauves-inspired ranges of color like sangria, which becomes rarefied on the silk georgette blouse, whilst ink blue becomes eclectic on the silk gazar tailored piece with fur detail. Neutral colors, like powder, exalt the nude-effect of glitter georgette while the flimsy gold micro nebula and there are gold leather profiles on the anatomical cuts of the diagonal black dress. Black & Gold.
Gold belts at the waist provide metallic flashes of light. The silk dress width sequins and the long Chantilly lace dress underline the more feminine and veiled part of this neo-tomboy. The neo-deco intarsia of powder silk, teal and black sequins reinterpret the very codes of Art Déco.
Fur desire: furs, ranging from faux raccoon to kid lambskin, are the very leitmotif of the collection and cover coats, cloaks and maxi-gilets. Napa leather in tone-on-tone stripes is used for compact jersey pieces.
Women play with masculine clothes and ironically, become more seductive.
Victor, Victoria!

(more…)

Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, PAOLA FRANI, PAOLA FRANI FALL WINTER 2012-2013, PAOLA FRANI FW 2012-13

SIMONETTA RAVIZZA FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

For the Simonetta Ravizza Fall/Winter Collection 2012-2013, haute couture is where exclusive tradition meets state of the art technology.
Featuring fabulous yet versatile furs and time less, impalpable dreams, the collection is a complex and refined exercise in the duality of style and more.
In the fur segment, Simonetta wanted to combine valuable techniques such as the most classic and virtuosic stranding process with a range of innovative, rough, dynamic and futurist materials.
Full of contrasts and antinomies, the result is a specular and original, aesthetic interpretation primarily expressed through the autonomous and unifying color of black that is offset by only a few splashes of shades of white, it is an unusual blend of textures, lines and consistencies.
Light leather filleted from the inside and superb furs such as mink, fox, and ermine as light and as soft as velvet are paired up with the hard and almost metallic contemporary energy of neoprene, cloth, and boucle fabric.
Lightness encourages the use of striking, sleek geometric lines, straight, cocoon-like, or slightly padded silhouettes, and exquisite cuts reminiscent of the golden age of French and Italian couture of the fifties and sixties.
Simonetta Ravizza has created a total look from top to bottom that is perfect for a lunch or dinner in the city: pretty little black dresses that are sexy and practical, the idea outfit for today’s multifaceted woman and her busy day, at work or play.
The are also neoprene mini-dress with fur trim that reconfirm the same concept from a different perspective, which is the duality that characterizes the entire collection.

(more…)

Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, SIMONETTA RAVIZZA, SIMONETTA RAVIZZA FALL WINTER 2012-2013, SIMONETTA RAVIZZA FW 2012-13

N°21 FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Grandeur en plein air.
A newly quiet sense of excess with a charming flair for paradox. The freeing sensation of the unforeseen slipping into, upsetting an impeccable protocol. Alessandro Dell’Acqua plays with contradictions, explores the power of unheard-of connections. He rediscovers the (maybe forgotten) thrill of having pure fashion fun, using clothes to create iconographic ideas and images in counterpoint.
With a light radical spirit, he introduces sedition into staid everyday life, interpreting the quotidian yet precious side of an imaginary regality. He pairs the tweed shirt with a jewel-embroidered melton skirt; cinches the waist of a multicolor-paillette-encrusted dress with a rough masculine belt; sets cabochons on gardening gloves.
Quite surprisingly, shapes and fabrics take on roles contrary to the usual: jacketings define shirts to match with long lavish skirts; a faux work overalls-outfit is made from gorgeous duchesse; the close-knit sweater offsets the semi sheer triple organza skirt; tweed and satin make for ambivalent additions on the sporty blouson.
While a sense of reserve may predominate, here and there bursts of sensuality suddenly rearrange the situation: it’s the inviting glimpse of a zip, possibly a mere peek at the slip under the velvet macramé dress, or the allure of a blouse with a long-lost vintage loveliness.
Accessories include velvet&mirror high heel shoes, clutch-style iPad cases complete with surreal trompe l’oeil hands, haircombs as if bits and pieces of a crown.
Materials rich in texture: mannish tweeds, silk duchesse, velvet macramé, triple organza. A smooth palette of eloquent shades: black, wine red, black green, melange brown, sage green, plus nude and camel beige tones.
A total rejection of pre-concepts on the mix&match front. A liberating experience in the form of collage.

(more…)

Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, N°21, N°21 FALL WINTER 2012-2013, N°21 FW 2012-13

DSQUARED2 FALL WINTER MEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

“NAUGHTY STUDENTS OR BAD TEACHERS?”

The FW 2012/13 Dsquared² collection is inspired by University students and in particular by one special kind of student: GOOD FAMILY, BAD REPUTATION!
Radical chic party boys from high society, foul-mouthed bourgeois students who work real hard on having a good time. Boys who spend more time on their clothes than on books but that is no big deal since they will graduate no matter what.
The Dsquared² boy certainly doesn’t excel at school but he is definitely the coolest one on campus.
This time around, the silhouette is the novelty. Very low-waist slim cut trousers that create a “bottle silhouette”: very tight pants, tighter than ever, fitted around the knee and slightly wider at the bottom are paired with short, tight jackets.
Once again, layering is key; layers on top of layers to fight the cold but most importantly because every detail is meticulously chosen after hours of study; outside the library of course…
New classic: argyle sweaters or in brushed mohair, turtlenecks, tweed jackets and tuxedo jackets paired with washed denim, military mods-style parkas reminiscent of student strikes…
Classic pieces are customized with markers, and a variety of studs (stars, labels, maple leafs,..) randomly found from old Dsquared² jackets, reused to personalize garments.
Boobou jackets in oiled fabric or suede with large pockets that always come in handy.
Accessories: “woody” eyewear glasses in transparent plastic and wood for the “perfect” student; without forgetting fun sunglasses to hide dark circles after a wild on-campus party.
Scarves, gloves and a military beret with a leather visor.
Vintage-like suede pointed or round tip ankle boots, in brown or grey, in leather or patent leather.
The colour palette: beige, camel, military green, denim blue, grey, black with glimpses of red and white.

(more…)

Tags: BACKSTAGE, DSQUARED2, DSQUARED2 F/W 2012-13, DSQUARED2 F/W 2012-13 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13

ICEBERG FALL WINTER MEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Modern Times, Charlie Chaplin.

Iceberg invents a colorful slant on Modern Times, the black&white film that Charlie Chaplin directed and starred in.
Craftsmanship, pure manual and technical prowess find expression in an up-to-date collection with traditional British flair where hand knits meet classic prince of wales, houndstooth check and other favorite men’s fabrics.
Heavy melton is reworked and pressed with leather, needlepunched with nylon to set the bases for a totally today tech style.
Cottons and cashmeres come in a palette of indigo blue, wine red, green and beige hues. Touches of gold and silver add a contemporary glam allure.

(more…)

Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13, ICEBERG, ICEBERG F/W 2012-13, ICEBERG F/W 2012-13 MEN

NICOLE FARHI MEN’S AUTUMN/WINTER 2012 COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

NICOLE FARHI celebrates its 30th Anniversary in 2012 with a menswear collection ideal for the modern world traveler doing his own urban Grand Tour for the 21st Century. The look is layered, adaptable and functional for journeys that encompass colder northern cities and tropical climates.
The NICOLE FARHI men’s collection is one of unexpected combinations inspired by traditional and modern techniques from around the world. A Scandinavian sweater is knitted in a way that is very similar to kilim making while a traditional Aran jumper is reworked with tye dye and a jersey t-shirt boasts pop Hawaiian prints. A classic over coat is realized using the Indian Kantha quilting technique. An original William Morris artwork sourced from the Liberty archives is needle punched into flannel jackets or cut into strips and knitted into sweaters.
The color palette is strong with china blue and oxblood sitting alongside cream, off white, charcoal, slate and black.
The raincoats, parkas and overcoats are worn over pyjama style long sleeved tops, a feather light cardigan sits snugly under a china blue wool hooded overcoat. A modern smoking jacket in the customized Liberty print is worn with narrow trousers and loafers, the perfect footwear for the frequent flyer.
For this travel inspired collection NICOLE FARHI has collaborated with British luggage maker Globe Trotter to create a travel case made from vulcanized fiber board, a technique developed in the late 19th Century, transforming this classic piece into a rucksack for the smart and resourceful traveler.

(more…)

Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13, NICOLE FARHI, NICOLE FARHI F/W 2012, NICOLE FARHI F/W 2012 MEN

GAZZARRINI FALL WINTER MEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

IT’S SO SIMPLE

A travel that starts from the tradition, that retraces know streets, even if renewed.
The inspiration born here: from elements and characteristics that recall Bruges. Its colours, its romantic and gloomy atmospheres.
White of the swans, red of bricks, the geometry of constructions, architectures.
A direct reference to the old tradition, to the hand-craft taste, that makes each production exciting.
It is the tailoring effect: that characterizes Gazzarrini as ‘ Maison Industrielle ‘ , it begins from the building’s architectural, roofs, bridges and it reaches the creation of the cloth; heraldic depiction and laces woof are read in a modern view. Each part of the romantic iconography gets appearance of the style pattern.
Tradition and very warm works and felts are mixed with angora or cashmere declined in a endless shadow of greys, greens, until mud-colour creating games of depth and intensity. Structured nylons or coloured sheepskin insets tell a story that is an ensemble of cultures and traditions: unique way of interpreting the present.
Games of prices offer a tridimentional silhouette. Heraldy and aristocratic traditional nuances create shirts in delicate colours: green, grey and camel which cope with yellow and active rose high-neck mohair that can be worn with a jacket.
Flannels and gaberdine are revised in shape and perfomant volume and underline the urban technicality of trousers: a sport concept applied to the elegance where the must is represented by thin elastic cotton.
Gazzarrini wants to travel the stree of ” contemporary tailoring ” with its own connotations.
Carefully cuts, that look after the tridimensionality of the figure. The elegance that springs from the balance of lines that melt in a sinuous movement.
The formal is deconstructed and the informal becomes elegance.

(more…)

Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13, GAZZARRINI, GAZZARRINI F/W 2012-13, GAZZARRINI F/W 2012-13 MEN