DSQUARED2 FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

PROM NIGHT

With the FW 2012/13 collection the designers make a plunge into the past as they look back at their senior year prom. Every girl in high school dreams about being perfect on prom night. An enchanting evening filled with preparations, sequin, flowers, music and the nervous excitement to find out who will be crowned prom queen.
Queen for one night, the Dsquared2 girl remains true to her roots and her rebel spirit. Despite the crown, she is not ready to trade in her “bad attitude” as she dares to mix denim with embroidered garments.
For the occasion, the Dsquared2 girl loots her mother’s sophisticated wardrobe without forgetting the precious vintage jewellery box. Elegant furs, colourful coats, crocodile jackets, flowing dresses and most importantly diamonds and precious stones.
Narrow and cropped pants, pencil skirts, long evening dresses and cocoon coats give a more curvy touch to the silhouette.
Opposites are brought together by an irresistible attraction: lace and gold damask prints mix with denim; while precious crocodile skins are embellished by soft mink furs.
Mama bags: elegant bags with a vintage feel. Precious accessories at the crossroads between the present and the past. The shapes are reminiscent of the 1950s while the super accessorized inside of the purse with iPad and iPhone pockets immediately bring us back to the present.
Cat eye inspired elongated sunglasses with a “glazed” aspect, toped with diamond sprinkles, seem to have been stolen from a cupcake shop.
Couture baseball caps and striped rugby-inspired scarves in mink, of course. Killer Cinderella shoes and “Leopearls” decolté.
Bows, bows and of course more bows.
Colours are reminiscent of marshmallows, pastel corsages or the prom punch: mint green, sunflower yellow, baby blue, coral and bright red.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, DSQUARED2, DSQUARED2 F/W 2012-13, DSQUARED2 F/W 2012-13 WOMEN, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13

ROBERTO CAVALLI FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

The prints come from hand-painted canvas, exhibited backstage at the fashion show, representing animal skins.
The ‘trompe l’œil’ effect is enhanced by the illusory mix of pythons leather printed with tiger or jaguar motifs, furs printed with python motif, pony skins transformed into crocodile.
Imaginary animals from pure fantasy are born. The silhouette: very short or maxi.
Mini skirts or ‘balloon’ dresses show the legs and are created with three-dimensional placed embroideries, in brocade or filleted fur, printed or inlaid.
Maxi skirts made of python leather painted with tiger motif, lasered mink with crocodile effect or cashmere cloth are combined with jacquard mohair sweaters or with entirely embroidered t- shirts.
Sculpture dresses in printed silk mousseline do not follow the line of the body but they redesign it and open in large ruffles and flounces in silk organza embellished with tiny pleated ruffles and black lace.
Haute artisanship prevails throughout the collection. Leather punched sequin mixed with micro feathers. Embroidery in relief with three-dimensional effects that recreate animal mantles or reptile scales.
The jackets and coats, made of black python leather or printed with ocelot or tiger mantle effect, have structured shoulders and a narrow waistline.
Large necklaces and bracelets made of metal covered with python or colored enamel depicting flamingos, snakes, crocodiles, embellished with colored stones.
Jockey hats covered with feathers, fur and crocodile.
The Florence bag is embellished with new details such as closures or strings of leather with buckles, inspired by the high quality of ‘hand made’ trunks.
Pointy pump shoes and lace up boots in python, crocodile, ostrich and lizard.
Big sunglasses named Wild Diva with mirrored lenses have sharp, emphatic outlines, underlined by crocodile, ostrich or galuchat inlaid workings to create an iconic and glamorous style with a daring shape and bold colors.
The scenery is characterized by a carpet of 39,000 roses that recreate the design of the tiger mantle: Schwarz black roses, bright copper color Cherry Brandy roses, brown Coffee Break roses, yellow Ilios roses on a bed of white roses and carnation.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, Roberto Cavalli, ROBERTO CAVALLI F/W 2012-13, ROBERTO CAVALLI FALL WINTER 2012-2013

AQUILANO.RIMONDI FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

In a panel there are the pictures of holy womanly, amplify with details in the Tiepolo, Mantegna and Artemisia’s canvases. And again jewels of royal families, dresses made by Italian couture in the seventies, enlarges of master Tirelli’s Theatrical costumes Everything compose the dream, that is what should be the sense of beauty for the collection AQUILANO RIMONDI F/W 2012; a unique theme, but a group of little pieces that day by day to be added at the mosaic. The summary of what we love. On the second and third panel are fasten with pins, in accordion with accurately composition scheme of colors, the transposition of the pictures on the fabrics. Born the research. Iridescent velvet in the tones of ruby, emerald, sapphire, citrine, topaz, turquoise, black onyx; the same tones are pressure on the wool crêpes, velours of mohair, faille, ottoman and on the “scubas” ( duchesse of silk twisted and very thin ). Disappeared the patch, but there is the desire of same effect; are the Jacquards, decoupé, made on micro structure of silk. Very small draw translate in material the artistic element of holy. Put side by side there are the macro tridimensional fil coupé; draws of tapestries show on the wall in royal building. Follow the fifth, sixth and seventh tableau: is fasten with pins in a sequence of class of products, what correspond at the designer’s interpretation. Personal sketches for the silhouette research. Coat with resized shoulder and with the volume flared at boule. On the sleeves at glove, there are small pleats, almost unseen. The same pleats are recognizable on the dresses that have the point of waist emphasize by bustier, that are take like inspiration from the portrait of woman who were called “madonne”. Fastenings entwine, mix of textiles matched at the light semi dull of the black leather. In the draws the length is over the knee. At the fourth line, little pants pyijamas closed the circle, overall when are tightly matched with the jackets that are thought like “smoking jacket”. Contradictions of exposition that transpose all in the contemporaneity. The way of six months of research. The keystone of collection. The translation of own language; The made in Italy know in all world.

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Tags: AQUILANO.RIMONDI, AQUILANO.RIMONDI F/W 2012-13, AQUILANO.RIMONDI FALL WINTER 2012-2013, BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13

FRANKIE MORELLO FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

“I love rock ‘n’ roll, so come and take your time and dance with me!”

The Frankie Morello collection for F/W 2012-13 is inspired by music but is not tied to the image of groupies and fans. It wants to evoke the attitude and style that is typical of the musician in the spotlight who plays a mean guitar and drives the crowds wild. Joan Jett, the icon who inspires these moods, and her “I love rock ‘n’ roll” take us below the stage where we dance to the music while the models on the catwalk pay tribute to the singer by wearing menswear blazers in wild flou colors like the one she wears on the cover of her most famous album.
Gymnastic references evoking the late seventies encounter the vibrant hues of the eighties, and the most sporty looks acquire a decidedly rock mood. The collection, which brings to mind a young, vitamin-charged American image, veers towards fierce video-clip style from the early years of MTV.
The collection is all about fusion and pop mix & match: it’s easy to wear but it also has some strikingly dramatic pieces that real stars need and want. The woman’s wardrobe is influenced by menswear: the man’s shirt is the perfect all-purpose item and the jacket is inspired by the biker’s jacket but fits like a man’s bomber jacket. “Good girl” preppie-style garments like the duffle coat or elegant sweater are given a “wicked” twist through bright colors and metal studs in shades tones that are even applied on an eyelet lace dress.
Metal mesh pieces worn with practically nothing underneath are sexy, feline and charismatic.
Frankie’s rocker girls, however, live in today’s hyper-technological work, so they can’t live without their potent leather or buckskin iPad cases with studded detailing.
Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti remind us, in pure rocker style, that good girls to heaven, but bad girls go EVERYWHERE!

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, FRANKIE MORELLO, FRANKIE MORELLO F/W 2012-13, FRANKIE MORELLO FALL WINTER 2012-2013

MASSIMO REBECCHI FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Urban Fairytale
A woman with two sides to her soul, romantic and severe; a woman who wants to turn her dreams into reality. A tribute to an understated, unconventional femininity, strong-minded and extremely seductive.
This is the Massimo Rebecchi collection for Autumn- Winter 2012-13.
Her romantic side is seen in the brocade capes and lace dresses; in the skirts made from a variety of fabrics – especially bouclé and brocade – with stones, three-dimensional embroidery, hand-knitted silks. Textiles are luxurious and versatile: brocades, silks, mixed with soft bouclés, felted cloths and new processes, exquisite details, lace inserts – black, burgundy, klein blue.
There is crochet work, and the lasered tassels are in a soft honey-camel shade. The fairytale comes to town while the dream becomes reality in the shape of delightful little yellow or pink coats that are almost felted; burgundy-red knitted parkas with shaded-fur collar and touches of silk; soft grey faux furs worn with tweed or knitted-gingham skirts.
Then colourful dresses made of floral spray-printed silks in yellow and black or black and burgundy.
Little knitted fabric jackets with a fresh light bestowed by new shades of dark green and teal.
The new matching set of a pumpkin cardigan-jacket and crochet skirt shouts casual-chic.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, MASSIMO REBECCHI, MASSIMO REBECCHI FALL WINTER 2012-2013, MASSIMO REBECCHI FW 2012-13

ANTONIO MARRAS FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

To Milly
A letter. A sentence.
” I know you, madam. I repeat, I know you but only by sight.
I have followed you, sometimes I have observed you at length, never daring to approach you.
I know your outward form, a few moments of your life and, above all, the little knowledge of a soul which a face may reveal to a careful observer.
But it is very little, madam, compared to the immensity of what I should like to know about you “.
A bolt from the blue. And a strong, instinctive, tormenting desire to know more.
Her husky, alluring voice – hard and gentle, harsh and melodic – surprised me, won me over, forced me to stop.
In just a few days I read, saw and listened avidly, intensely, passionately to everything about her.
She doesn’t know me and perhaps this letter will surprise her, but I know her!
I see her in Turin, Milan, France, America and the back, with new success, to Italy, theatre, films, television, recitals, songs.
The relentless passing of time does not take her slowly away from us, like ships we see from the shore. Indeed, it brigs her closer.
Simple and elegant in her sophisticated little sheath dresses, wrapped in voluminous stoles as if to shield herself from human vulgarity. Fascinating and mysterious, discreet and nonchalant, slender and strong, shy and bold.
I immediately saw her as the ideal figure through which notes may introduce themselves to people.
Her ever-present trench coat, her jackets and clothes are pages, books and diaries that tell a story, describe a legend.
Through the layers, the unexpected juxtapositions, the inserts hoarded in her overcoats we can read her memories, interpret the experiences of a real life.
She sings and through her voice Milan rises and take shape. With its thick fog, the smoke, the silence illuminated by the street lights and lights navigating the Naviglio.
“It’s difficult to describe Milan if you were born in the city. Hard to know where to begin, to find a clear, precise image, or a smell, to start with.
The fog, perhaps: the kind that doesn’t exist any more, in town I mean, on its central streets, as it did when I was a little girl and used to go to school enveloped in a kind of off-white cocoon, a glass of Pernod, I’d find years later in a song.
The city belong to me, a desert I know well “.
And she was the interpreter, embodiment, living metaphor of Milan.
Both of them indecipherable, enigmatic, secret, closes within their mysteries and open through sudden smiles which light up the soul.
I will continue to love her and seek her out in dark corners, in the old-style houses of Milan, in the courtyards and roads, in the theatres loved above all else.
Will she read these confused thoughts, these rushed notes, these feelings evoked by a real letter that touched my heart?

Quoten taken from:
Lettera a Milly, Cesare Pavese, Via attraverso le lettere, Einaudi
Lella Costa, La sindrome di Gertrude, Rizzoli

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Tags: ANTONIO MARRAS, ANTONIO MARRAS FALL WINTER 2012-2013, ANTONIO MARRAS FW 2012-13, BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13

MILA SCHÖN FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

For Fall/Winter 2013, Bianca Gervasio, Creative Director of Mila Schön, has focused her vision on evoking a modern antithesis: the seemingly irreconcilable difference between two lifestyles, the ethical and the aesthetic. A major inspiration is the philosophy of Kierkegaard and the celebration of independence and freedom of choice.
The Existentialist themes seen throughout the collection also channel Simone de Beauvoir as the symbol of an elegantly balanced and feminine collection in which ethics are enriched with the aesthetics of refinement and charming beauty.
Black and white optical effects enhance the palette of natural tones, bright colors and vivid metallic finishes. Inspired by an original design from the archives is a new refined and luxuriant print, where miniature foliage alternates with macro 3D effects. This gives way to sophisticated bi-chromatic blends, while the iconic leaf returns in the shape of decorative brooches and alamari frog closures.
Graphic silhouettes, geometric motifs, sinuous profiles, precise pleats and inlaid chevrons exemplify the clean equilibrium distinctive of the House. Together with double fabrics there are embroidered wool with tiny three-dimensional spheres and creponne with little golden leaves in fil coupé. Worldly winter souls are then enveloped in stoles, capes and mid-length furs including raccoon in degradé tones or free-flowing layers of lustrous fox.
An ethereal and ultra-glamorous take from the Mila Schön archive, the Swan Dress, is recreated with a tulle and organza base embellished with embroidered leaves that have been laser-cut and then meticulously pleated, ironed and sewn by hand using golden thread in a process that requires two days to complete.
Booties and loafers have tortoise heels, a stylish indulgence that ties in leather belts and metal jewelry and stands out in evening clutches, precious treasures that embody modern vanity also interpreted in shiny metallic laminates.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, MILA SCHÖN, MILA SCHÖN FALL WINTER 2012-2013, MILA SCHÖN FW 2012-13

C’N'C COSTUME NATIONAL FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

For the CNC Costume National FW 2012/2013 Collection, Ennio Capasa has imagined a woman in a virtual metropolis, mixing and matching street-wear and evening wear.
He has re-interpreted parkas, bikers and tuxedo focusing on the contrast between different textures and light. These young women who cross the city in seven-league boots are post-punk, post-chic but above all tecnological.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, COSTUME NATIONAL, COSTUME NATIONAL FALL WINTER 2012 2013, COSTUME NATIONAL FW 2012-13, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13

LES COPAINS FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

The 2012 Les Copains Collection, designed by Alessandro Dell’Acqua, inspired by Lisa Fonssagrives Penn, the muse of some of the top master photographers (like Richard Avedon, Man Ray e Irving Penn) frames a couture symbiosis between materials and style, enhancing elegance and sensuality.
It’s all about subtle seduction through the evocation of graphic silhouettes, the marked waist lines, the winter colors: grey, forest green, black, purple.
A mohair dress trimmed with swaroski and studs on the neckline and a masculine check detail. On the coats plaid is combined with tribal kidassia or Mongolian furs intarsia on the knitwear. The little black dress trimmed with plisse’ both in knit.
The same effect is also seen in the furs sewn on an organza base. Knitwear, in all of its expressions, is at the highest level and always in the tradition of Les Copains. On the dresses knitwear ribbing gently design the silhouette of the body combined with double face satin on pencil skirts.
Super lightweight alpaca for the almost transparent pullover to be worn over a micro cardigan. The jersey takes on a felt look when over a rib knit dress, all laser cut with picot finishing. The popcorn stitch micro pull is decorated with floral embroideries in metal and jais. Crystal snowflakes materialize like in wonderland on maxi pullovers with baby alpaca cables. Knots in knitwear embroidered by hand intertwine made to look like fur on a dress with a trompe l’oeil effect. For a skirt a thick layer of laminated sequins create a sparkling twist. Hats in knitwear are wrapped in tulle.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua designs for Les Copains a refined collection where each piece evokes the tradition and vision of the Maison.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, LES COPAINS, LES COPAINS FALL WINTER 2012-2013, LES COPAINS FW 2012-13

KRIZIA FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Sobriety, and the odd surprise
Silhouettes grow longer, both in overcoats and in evening dresses, with a mysterious, priestly look (like the long icon-dresses emerging from the shadowy
background of a Piero Pizzi Cannella painting), and certainly suave with their silks and laminates. But all seriousness is soon contradicted by the long splits that reveal the entire length of the leg with each step; by top-stitching borrowed from a more casual wardrobe; by cheeky Mongolian fur shoulders on necklines (o waistcoats); by feisty leather or neoprene bodices; or by a single leather shoulder strap supporting an entire draping.
Shoulders are large and slightly raised (not only in jackets and overcoats, but even in a sheath dress), emphasizing the otherwise close-fitting silhouette, which is further tightened by leather strap harnesses, borrowed from certain types of work clothes; contrasting top-stitching and protective padding give garments a thickness feel, as if they were sculpted.
Cuts are carefully designed to follow the body’s anatomy. Contrasting inverted pleats take us by surprise, even in certain pants.
Other close-fitting trousers feature a low crotch, but there are also some glossy coated tight black jeans. Whimsical leather shoulders on a draped silk dress or on oversized knitwear in kid mohair; snug poncho-scarves; not to be missed is the gold lamé pant suit, a triumph of horizontal plissés.
Materials: this winter’s denim features contrasting top-stitching, ennobled by combining it with cashmere. Wools. Plenty of Mongolian fur in sleeves, gaiters, collars, shoulders, shrugs and even bags. Kid mohair, lamé, viscose, knitwear with fisherman’s ribbing. Silk, cady, georgette, chiffon, beads. Brown leather, neoprene. Animalier inlaying with cartoon-style tigers and panthers (also found in costume jewelery).
Golden accessories (pochettes, sandals, half boots…).
The soundtrack for the fashion show includes a tribute to the memory of the great Whitney Houston, a homage to this beautiful and talented singer and actress who, as it happens, loved to wear Krizia.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, KRIZIA, KRIZIA F/W 2012-13, KRIZIA FALL WINTER 2012-2013