JO NO FUI SPRING SUMMER 2013 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

DREAMLAND

Unbound explorers. New nomads travelling from exotic lands to big metropolis with modern casualness, constantly seeking unique and emotional routes.

The transeasonal journey of Alessia Giacobino’s globetrotters for her JO NO FUI collection calls for multi-layered outfits in which proportions and texture follow afar latitudes and customs.

The Ikat print gives structure to jackets and sartorial waistcoats worn over embedded bermudas or gabardine cargo pants.

Floor long bad-dye silk dresses evoke faraway ritual ceremonies; colorful oversize sweaters pair with oriental flavored sarouel pants.

Combat pants and jumpsuits are punctuated by a military netting completing the look of an adventurer who cannot resist the whim of brass pearls trapped into hand-knitted looking cardigans. Parkas are embellished with embroidery and camouflage stains.

Colonial silk burette takes us back into the city where deconstructed masculine jackets are worn over crochet shorts and very revealing bodysuits. The exclusive suede is to be worn as a total look.

Eveningwear is ultra glamorous with golden lurex and light effects showing Ikat patterns on the sequined pieces.

A no-frontiers collection created for a woman who invents her very own personal style journey every day.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, JO NO FUI, JO NO FUI SS 2013, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2013

Sat, November 10 2012 » Fashion Blog

ANDREA INCONTRI SPRING SUMMER 2013 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

For the next summer season Andrea Incontri reinterprets the value of Italian taste that meets the world and modernity, bringing together inspiration from traditional culture and influences from far-away, exotic lands.
Sentimental, Graphic, Oriental. The collection reveals a romantically cultured and orderly attitude, where order and balance are expressed through geometric shapes printed on fabrics or woven directly into the greatly innovative textures. An image whose onset is in the color, whose primary reference is the hydrangea:
a flower that originated in the extreme lands of sun but that is also profoundly linked to the memories of the Italian Riviera in the Sixties and Seventies.
Starting from dazzling white, the palette moves towards innocent and delicate nuances – sky blue, wisteria, matte pink – in micro and macro checkers that bring back childhood memories of elementary notebooks.
A chromatic lightness that later tends towards the nighttime in the refined pairings of dark nuances of black and blue, to then surprise the monochrome with extremely sophisticated prints of floral deconstructions and reconstructions, or embroidery using vintage thread, individually created.
The collection becomes a tale of symmetry of style and function, using fabrics from classical tailoring and from the undying artisanal vision that always resurges to exalt an embedded attention and research: from woven cotton to insubstantial poplin, from printed chiffon to seersucker silk raffia, each and every surface filled with archetype meanings.
The silhouettes are studied in detail to tell the story of the dynamism of modern rhythms but also of a desire for femininity that alternates fitted bustier dresses decorated with diamond shapes with fluid and transparent evening gowns.
Volumes are often dictated by oversized garments: shirts and tunics with geometrical lines, short and wide pants, bermuda shorts inspired by boxer shorts, mini-jackets with kimono sleeves.
The shapes are straightforward yet animated by panels and folds that reconfirm the structural architecture of Andrea Incontri’s fashion code, a story he also tells in the linear blouses that take inspiration from school smocks, in the pencil skirts and mini dresses that reinvent the concept of the “little black dress”.
Finally, accessories complete the look creating strong material and visual contrast: from strappy sandals with cleated soles to pumps with double metallic buckles; from shoppers covered in seasonal prints to “college” school bags to be carried on the shoulders. Last but not least the precious bucket bag, a reminder of the small baskets geishas used to use as caskets of seduction and vanity.

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Tags: ANDREA INCONTRI, ANDREA INCONTRI SS 2013, BACKSTAGE, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2013

Tue, October 30 2012 » Fashion Blog

ANTEPRIMA SPRING SUMMER 2013 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

FEEL THE BEST

Whole, light, shimmering. This is the season for women to inspire.To shine, with joy, elegance, confidence.

A season with all the seasons within. Layers of the retro and contemporary and high-tech, transcending. Reflecting circles of whites, golds, silvers, powders.

A season for intelligence and transparency. Fine fabrics flowing, billowing. With happiness and comfort, one complementing the other.

Feel the texture, the geometry. The sheer grace of silhouettes and satin. The boldness of metallic mesh and all-overs.

Knitted, pleated, silken, sequins… a-lined, fluid, straight, wide… and fine sandals with platinum heels to lift you.

This is a season embroidered with womanly beauty and light. Woven with sophistication and simplicity, softness and stamina. The woman’s body echoes everything.

Feel the best this season

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Tags: ANTEPRIMA, ANTEPRIMA SS 2013, BACKSTAGE, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2013

Tue, October 23 2012 » Fashion Blog

N°21 SPRING SUMMER 2013 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Spring-Summer 2013
This is opulence seen through the irreverent eyes of the Tumblr generation. Images clash, intersect the liberating energy of unknown inflections.
Playing freely with opposites, Alessandro Dell’Acqua takes the art of contradiction to new heights where it explodes with perfect aplomb. Couture-level materials and stylistic features collide with the rules for a practical urban wardrobe, so defining a fresh concept of classics. Quietly offbeat.
Iridescent, pixel mode. Every item has all the pieces both totally in and out of place, ergo the organza T-shirt has fun with color blocks and the charmeuse sweatshirt presents tone-on-tone cabochon-trim sleeves.
As atelier and street engage in a mutually enticing dialogue, one skirt turns sumptuous thanks to crystal and aluminum-cap paillette embroidery and the white vinyl-back trucker jacket makes an ideal match with a skirt in lace. Following the logic of a fanciful shifting in & out of position, the language of eloquence takes on a pop tinge, while natural and artificial flirt back & forth.
End-result? Vestal virgins dance in the silicone print on the duchesse skirt, colorful python inlays create a postmodern damier pattern on very simple skirts and Ts. A sense of graphic composition forms the backdrop as every element fits into a precise design. Shapes are archetypal: mannish short-sleeve shirts, structurally simple tops and sweaters, knee-skimming pencil skirts, comfortable finely creased pants. Meantime, the ever ongoing conversation between masculine and feminine sparks a perceptible tension that’s crisp, erotic, seductive.

Materials are full, rich, supple and firm: silk duchesse and satin, brocade, lace, snakeskin, vinyl, crepe. Colors make a classic statement offset by flashes of brights: white, blue, aqua, magenta, nude and flesh tones.

Accessories include duchesse & Plexiglas slingback pumps, strappy Roman sandals in galuchat leather, boxy clutch bags with a military flair.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, N°21, N°21 SS 2013, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2013

Fri, October 5 2012 » Fashion Blog

MILA SCHÖN SPRING SUMMER 2013 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Light & Color

A new era of light and color. A new femininity. Modern lightness between romantic accents, sinuous lines and timeless prints, is what Bianca Gervasio, Creative Director of Mila Schön, has imagined and stylized for the upcoming spring/summer. This season’s woman is like a multifaceted prism, which radiates elegance and sensuality, freshness and determination, capturing and reflecting all of the emotions and attitudes of present time in equilibrium of sophisticated seduction.
The collection is enhanced by luminous reflections, multicolor geometric shapes, mosaics of crystals or enameled plexiglass, yet with a tailored touch that harmonizes natural nuances, pastel hues and vivid shades like cyclamen and mint. A chromatic growing rhythm that artfully vibrates in the images recalling the designs from the archive: from the “chevron scalino” pattern – luxuriously realized in silk jacquard and lurex – to the mix of the “coriandolo” print, accented with a refined explosion of bright tones and embellished with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS for eveningwear.
The fabrics shape fluid and structured silhouettes with impeccable precision. Silk and cotton organza, cotton, cady, thick cotton drill, jacquard and stretch silk gauze, are all used alternatively within the collection, from designing soft lines to even sculpting three-dimensional forms of trapezoidal volumes. Finally the crêpe de Chine is exquisitely dismantled and recomposed as crescents in the long A-line dress, inspired by one of the original designs of the Maison.
The image is completed by precious accessories that continue to evoke the refined and exuberant mix of light and color permeating the entire collection. From the pumps and fabric belts perfectly matching the new compact bag in both weaved patent leather and the “coriandolo” print, to the “chevron scalino” patterned clutch where the double M logo of Mila Schön is adorned in metal and pearled rodoide.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, MILA SCHÖN, MILA SCHÖN SS 2013, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2013

Mon, October 1 2012 » Fashion Blog

ALVIERO MARTINI 1ª CLASSE L.E.G. SPRING SUMMER 2013 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

THE SPRING/SUMMER 2013 L.E.G. WOMAN IS MULTIETHNIC
With its L.E.G. capsule collection, Alviero Martini 1ª Classe brings a woman displaying cosmopolitan femininity to the catwalk.
A collection made of soft shapes and volumes that glide over posh fabrics featuring exotic colors that have been stolen from the Far East.
Silk takes a leading role being offered as satin, jacquard, chiffon and is paired with boucle, embossed and ottoman woven fabrics.
Cocktail & night outfits are offered with lengths that dictate when they should be worn.
White, black and beige hues become pure light and are interchanged with gold, red geranium, fuchsia and poppy red to create a color block look or contrasting effects.
Knee length dresses with ruffles and kimono dresses are interchanged with classic clear cut sheath dresses and evening gowns.
Elegant the one-shoulder dresses.
Tops and bustiers, embellished with ruffles, are offered with matching skirts and trousers.
Knee and ankle length chiffon box pleated skirts, share the limelight with tulip shaped ones.
High-wasted tuxedo or “baiadera” style trousers of various lengths are also available.
Outerwear encompass ultra-short bomber jackets, blazers that emphasize the waist, revisited trench coats and safari jackets.
Geo print silk jacquard t-shirts and tuxedo trousers ranging from beige to gold hues offer a new bon ton twist and create a total look. Bomber jackets paired with tulip shaped skirts are also offered with the Geo print.
Feathers become ornaments and are set as clusters onto sheath dresses, skirts, sweatshirts and bomber jackets as well as to embellish tops’ ruffles.
Contrasting color piping outlines garments’ contours and highlights the silhouette throughout the collection.
Light games are displayed by pale gold-coated silk outfits.
Handbags blend with the garments taking up the contrasting piping effect. Made with soft yet structured leather, Boston bags, clutches, tote bags, travel bags, messenger bags and obo bags are offered with a hot-stamped crocodile print embellished with feathers.

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Tags: ALVIERO MARTINI, ALVIERO MARTINI SS 2013, BACKSTAGE, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2013

Fri, September 28 2012 » Fashion Blog

ERMANNO SCERVINO SPRING SUMMER 2013 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

A play of unusual combinations and contrasts applied to the shapes, materials and colors. Perfectly ironed tailored slim-fitting jacketsare combined with trousers made of textured fabrics with a worn-in look, characterized by special washes, or by low-waisted cargo styles in garment-dyed canvas.

Jackets in technical fabric with a crumpled organza finish are paired with tailored chinos. The reversible concept for jackets is developed using technical fabrics either in cotton/linen in shades of blue or in mat-weave cotton/ramie blend in natural shades.

The Scervino man plays with the concept of the suit, by which the shirt – in chambray or stretch Oxford – plays the role of jacket and is matched with pants in the same fabric. The biker-style jacket is made of raw linen knitted in linen stitch; the trench coats and military blazers in dyed canvas.

The crumpled and ironed contrasts re-emerge in the shirts range, showcasing prints, embroideries and embellished by buttons with aged-silver finish and mother-of-pearl snap buttons. Made in light muslin, micro-stripe stretch cotton, or in linen chambray in a mixture of plain powder-blue tones, striped or with chequered designs, enhanced by darn-style embroideries.

The new short sleeved knits come in mohair with a double-plait effect in jersey, with a light weft in shades of aqua green, powder blue and flesh, or made of cashmere in natural shades of sand. The knitwear is made of ultra light, almost impalpable yarns such as linens and silks, which mould themselves to the body; alternatively in chunkier yarns, knitted in micro moss stitch for the linen-steel, in irregular cables for the raw linen, and in fabric stitch for the cotton.

Accessories: The shoes, laced-up English style, two-tone in nappa – white/black, white/brown and white/blue – or in single-shade split leather in the brightest colors, are subjected to a special wash treatment to obtain a slight melding of the colors. Two-tone stretch straw hats, work bags and micro-boule chain bracelets round off the collection.

Colors: Blue shades steal the limelight: from sugar bag blue to the pale blue of washed-out jeans through to midnight blue, which we also find matched with military green. Another important role is played by natural shades such as white, off-white and sand, combined with softer variants, sometimes vintage such as aqua green, powder blue and flesh.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO SS 2013, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2013

Sat, September 15 2012 » Fashion Blog

CORNELIANI SPRING SUMMER 2013 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Soundtrack

MAN FALLS IN THE NET

A nappa leather trench coat with laser openwork, washed with natural enzymes to give it a well-worn, very light look. This is one of the must haves of the Corneliani Spring/Summer collection, which has reinterpreted leisurewear to reflect a style that is modern, relaxed and elegant. The jacket too is made of cotton knit, to be worn under a nappa leather, dove grey safari jacket.

The extremely precious fabrics are made by weaving shot silks and linens together and are inspired by winter tweeds. Colours are light in cool tones from mastic to brown and pearl grey, as a well as total white and total black. The supreme icon of male elegance, the suit, has also been reinterpreted in terms of shape and proportions and is now suggested for free times use.

The totally deconstructed jackets feature large shoulders and wide lapels, with soft, light trousers that have 2 or pleats. The trick is in the details: from the shirt-style sleeves to bellow pockets, from the ties to the ultra-light, matching scarves that are now an indispensable accessory.

The collection’s strength is the leather, as soft as a glove, and openwork netting in the trench coat, as well as in the shirts, i the knitwear and in the blousons with nappa leather and suede inserts that are reminiscent of the ancient armor of the Gonzaga family.
The shoes also feature openwork netting.

“To change the rules while remaining faithful to our past, we have to implement new technological procedures, working on the details, materials and fit, which must not neglect comfort and sartorial elegance,” says Sergio Corneliani, the brand’s creative director.

“I believe that in today’s world we should aim above all to make quality suits that reflect the spirit of the times we live in, but that thanks to their style can remain in the wardrobe as they transcend season and fashions.

The concept I have based this collection on is transforming leisurewear garments too into symbols of strictly Italian-made elegance.”

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