N°21 © Copyright 2013
Spring-Summer 2014
Exotic languor creates the mood for journeys which while possibly just imaginary leave indelible traces.
As a classic designer with a quiet iconoclastic verve, Alessandro Dell’Acqua needs only to read subtle shifts, sudden and decisive accords to scatter the cards and capture a high-class seditious flair.
This season he works around the idea of vacation. It’s a keen all-encompassing urge, liberating sensation of freedom, ideal state of the soul where an acute and compelling desire for some faroff dimension takes shape and ultimately identifies a cool sleek style.
The starting point is a bourgeois wardrobe, an unwavering concentrate of pure precision and effective elegance with crisp, constant, erotic tension between masculine and feminine setting the tone.
The clothes are archetypal: assertive coats and jackets, short-sleeve bowling shirts, clean cropped blouses tops & knits, minis and knee-skimming pencil skirts, smart little dresses and perfectly creased pants.
All is in place, as is nothing at all, for precious embroideries mimic smudges on tennis shirts, notch patterns embellish solid examples of tailoring with hibiscus flower outlines, skirts dematerialize and morph into lingerie concepts or in alternative present lavish stitching.
Outfits with a soft sophisticated pajama feel reflect the carefree ease of home living, mannish boxer shorts add a fresh touch to nearly every ensemble.
Gorgeous prints and jacquard designs, wonderful expressions of stylized exoticism imbue the new wardrobe ever in motion with a timeless allure even as the flashes of intuition typical of a vacation spirit upset the established order of things from one moment to the next.
Fabrics and such (duchesse satin, heavy cotton, doubleface leather, laser-cut lace, Oxford cloth, poplin) feature full rich textures while colors (dark blue, black, jungle green, python brown, white, blush/powder/nude tones) are moist and mellow.
Lastly, ornamental elements mark the season’s accessories – slipper style flats, chunky high-heel sandals, tulle stockings – with a discreet opulence.
This faroff dimension becomes the magnificent backdrop for a mode of dress decorously free of rules.
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Tags: N°21, N°21 SS 2014, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2014
Wed, November 20 2013 » Fashion Blog
To distil essentiality in order to sublimate it with lunar hypnotism and opulence.
Alessia Giacobino’s intention is decisive; her architect background is to be found in the details that transform simple, formal dresses into precious and exclusive objects of desire. A luxury to exhibit.
The silhouette, sculptural and definitive, brings back the space age of the 60’s. Couture proportions and cuts are mixed with the strong art déco references of french artist erté and with unexpected hip hop contaminations.
Triple silk organza a-line tops and shifts are underlined by orbital circles and contrasting cuts, by pvc and lizard inlays and appliqué.
Pants are slim to enhance the shape of chic jackets and coats that parade sophisticated exotic prints; an absolute illusion vertigo.
The portholes opened in dresses and tunics zippers transform, adorn, inter- rupt and create the unexpected to provoke a visual accident that pushes the parameters of elegance forward.
Leather invents shirts, cargo pants and boxer shorts inspired by ny bad girls.
The eternal innovative spirit of the brand is expressed through the construc- tion, the proportions and cuts establishing the embellishment. But also in the inspiration sources that quote iconic elements of hip hop gear – like the show- ing elastic band of the boxer shorts, the dropped armholes of the vests and the camo print – to be worn with architecturally-sculped pieces.
The fabrics: triple silk organza, crépon, cotton and silk faille, lurex cloth, lizard, leather.
The colors: inspired by planets, pluto green, mars red, moonlight white, meteo- rite brown.
The embellishment: cabochon, lurex, lizard applique, satellite rhinestones.
A strong and focused collection, a synthesis of essentiality and femininity; a dual game to highlight the sartorial lines of pieces enriched with an echo of geometry, orientalism or street-wear elements.
A celestial dualism that assumes the tones of contemporary luxury.
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Tags: JO NO FUI, JO NO FUI SS 2014, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2014
Mon, November 18 2013 » Fashion Blog
Wed, November 13 2013 » Fashion Blog
Sun, November 10 2013 » Fashion Blog
MSGM © Copyright 2013
Hollywood 1934 “Don the Beachcomber” opens up. Tiki mania becomes all the rage. Tiki: bizarre mix of primitivism and beach culture.
Hawaii vs Los Angeles, Honolulu vs Miami, Lifestyle vs Jet Set. Deco and Liberty contaminations. Hibiscus prints and paisley create a kaleidoscopic explosion of patterns.
The irreverent brand’s mission: to break the rules… to take over the cultural evolution of tiki style. Evolution and revolution.
“Allez Allez Allez…” Camille sings. “Allons MSGM Girls!” with all the pride of a feminist rebellion. “Prend la force dans la taille et dans les tallons”.
Furniture fabrics, woven mats with a clear futuristic flavour: shiny striped raffia and intertwined multicolour checked techno raffia. Lightweight neoprene with a punched flower design.
Three dimensional embroidery brings coloured plastic jungles to life Tiki/jungle prints on crêpe de chine and chiffon set an exotic mood. Hibiscus filigree prints, Tiki chandelier print. Multicolour strands for both the print and the embroidery
Split silhouettes on faille printed pareo skirts. Metropolitan contamination: crop tops and chevronne raffia mini skirts. Deal breaker: white men’s shirts slip into the looks Bows, folds and ruffles in parachute poplin are the new shapers.
Chocolate brown is the colour of the season. Deep brown and pink. Turquoise and orange. Sandy beige and mint green. And then there’s white.
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Tags: MSGM, MSGM SS 2014, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2014
Thu, November 7 2013 » Fashion Blog
CELEBRATING MOSCHINO’S 30TH ANNIVERSARY
To celebrate the fashion house’s 30th anniversary, Creative Director Rossella Jardini wished to pay tribute to the memory of founder Franco Moschino by re-interpreting all the iconic themes that have inspired his aesthetic vision. She presents an exclusive mise en scène that plays on the double spirit of the contemporary woman, the good and evil.
Opening the show are the designer’s 4 favorite models: Pat Cleveland (strapless dress with Italian flag and cow, fall winter 85/86), Violeta Sanchez (coat with teddy bears, fall/winter 88/89), Amalia (Italian flag dress, fall/winter 88/89) and Giselle Zelauy (garbage dress, spring/summer 94) , who wear symbolic garments from the Maison’s archives. Then they leave the scene to the spring/summer 2014 collection with a series of female characters that describe the same woman in her “good” & “bad” versions.
The nun, the maid, the playmate, the biker and many other varied personalities reveal a creative duality that alternates street-glam style with a bon chic, bon genre spirit, through a collection that is elegantly easy, accessible and, at the same time, highly refined, and speaks to all women.
Between the memory of Franco Moschino and the look towards the present and future of the Maison, Rossella Jardini offers must-have pieces like the leather jacket with a heart or dotted with shiny studs, the iridescent bouclé jacket with large metallic zippers and chain bracelets on the cuffs, pearl embroidery on lightweight, see-through dresses, refining the most delicate looks with patterns of colored roses printed or embroidered on fabrics in white, black and red. Hearts, pearls and chains. Raised lettering with the logo letters in shiny metal and gold, on both the clothes and the accessories.
A rhythm that brings together different shapes and distinctive details, from “cropped” silhouettes and long petalled cuts, from striped patterns and Vichy designs, from flirty culottes and sophisticated organza dresses, completely hand-embroidered and trimmed with ruffles and large flounces.
And for the grand finale, highlighted by the live voice of Gloria Gaynor singing I AM WHAT I AM, the historical models return to the scene to introduce a series of 11 more vintage looks:
Pat wearing a red dress with black polka dots, spring/summer 84
Violeta wearing an upside down strapless jacket dress, spring/summer 88
Amalia wearing the Holy Chic dress, fall/winter 93/94
Gisele wearing the Gazzetta Dello Sport dress, spring/summer 93
Alek Wek wearing the “question mark” dress, spring/summer 98
Alana wearing the “De Gvstibvs Non Est Dispvtandvm” t-shirt and a skirt with hearts, spring/summer 94
Erin O’ Connor wearing the dinner jacket and the Kaos skirt, spring/summer 94
Jodie Kidd wearing the” gorilla” dress, fall/winter 94/95
Diana D. wearing the chain jacket and the “NIENTE” t-shirt, fall/winter 88/89
Natasha wearing the shopping bag dress, fall winter 87/88
Catherine McNeil wearing bathing suits bearing the written motto LA CLASSE NON È ACQUA, spring/summer 87
Meanwhile, a tableau vivant takes shape in the background.
Like the footnote of a timeless tale that celebrates this important anniversary, weaving a precious thread between the story of yesterday and the passionate present that is MOSCHINO.
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Tags: MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO SS 2014, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2014
Thu, October 31 2013 » Fashion Blog
Iceberg © Copyright 2013
SPRING/SUMMER 2014 WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION
A revolution as to aesthetic, codes and direction. It’s a return to the brand’s roots, with a strong innovative and icononclastic spirit, no sense of nostalgia. The new spring/summer 2014 Iceberg women’s collection designed by Alexis Martial signals the beginning of a profound change.
Right from the start, the principle of the uniform so dear to Iceberg takes hold. Merging with a Manga aesthetic, it sparks the idea of a boy scout journeying toward Harajuku, Japan. These two universes are clearly highlighted by the use of the color white, which plays a central role in this theme where quasi-couture structures are always fresh and fun.
Inspired by Japanese pop culture, the brand name shows up in pictographic lettering along with the abstract design of an iceberg. In form of embroidered patch or holographic reflector, it appears as if a signature on a variety of items, so creating a leitmotif cutting across the whole collection.
For example, on a baggy streetwear type sweat: other element marking the brand’s archives, though now in the freshest of styles thanks to innovative materials. Leather and neoprene closely coupled with fine muslin turn the latter into a wonderfully edgy basic.
An ultra sheer nylon knit fabric, product of a special textile process, covers print or embroidered dresses to create the impression of an iridescent jellyfish. Lastly, there are clothes more in the way of couture with streetwear accents. Funky volumes. Miniskirts draping on hips.
Impalpable silk muslin dresses with iridescent rhodoid bands and – on top – black knit gilets or aprons evoking a factory or workshop context. Accessories reinforce the distinctly contemporary Nipponic feel of the collection, as in ankle boots and open-toe sandals with soft rubber sole.
Plexiglas studs, jewel-buttons add a luxurious touch to this playful work garb. Even collars come complete with a precious lacquer metal piece that mimics the classic boy-scout neckerchief.
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Tags: ICEBERG, ICEBERG SS 2014, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2014
Mon, October 28 2013 » Fashion Blog
Sat, October 26 2013 » Fashion Blog
Antonio Marras © Copyright 2013
Before there was earth or sea or the sky that covers everything, Nature appeared the same throughout the whole world, what we call chaos: a raw confused mass, nothing but inert matter, badly combined discordant atoms of things, confused in the one place.
Ovid, The Metamorphoses I 5,9
Balanced chaos, perfect disorder. Matter that changes and plays with shapes and volumes. Rules overturned, unstably solid balances. Imperfect, discordant, excessive. Complete, limpid, regular.
Rules respected yet broken. Clothes like leaves on which the times of change and mutation leave their mark. Caban jackets, jackets and blouses, only seemingly austere, reveal excrescences as if plates of armor had grown on the back as protection and a shield.
Tops, tunics, and skirts with apparently different shapes are similar and contiguous. Sisters. Daughters. Each born from the modification of the other. Colors reflect and evoke the dawn, fog, and glistening dew drops.
Powder pink, penicillin yellow, ash gray, dusty blue, swamp green, and fairytale pink. Luxurious embroidery, wild threads, transparencies, layering, perforated patent leather motifs, butterfly wings of cloth and chiffon, precious stones and grosgrain ribbon, lace, dentelle lace, Chantilly lace, and ruching alternate on different materials.
Radzimir organza with oversized motifs of flowers embedded in stripes and dots (that recall dreamy and familiar worlds). Olympian landscapes bursting with vibrant shapes and colors. Ecru and black intertwining, blending and clashing.
A blend of mesh, silver leather, fil coupe, satin, floral brocade, striped tapestry fabric, silk duchesse, cotton jacquard, and tulle on tulle.
I want to speak about bodies changed into new forms. You, gods, since you are the ones who alter these, and all other things, inspire my attempt, and spin out a continuous thread of words, from the world’s first origins to my own time.
Ovid, The Metamorphoses I 1-4
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Tags: ANTONIO MARRAS, ANTONIO MARRAS SS 2014, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2014
Fri, October 18 2013 » Fashion Blog
Anteprima © Copyright 2013
A GENTLE POWER
Spring and summer; Seasons of newness, boldness, innocence, joy and mystery.
A time for color and power: powder pink, aqua green, icy blue, off white, splashes of metallic silver, turquoise and rose gold.
A time for contrasts. Knitted softness vs textural flair, opaque vs transparent, chiffon vs leather, summer cashmere vs silk organza, pastel vs metallic, oversized vs waisted.
A time for a woman’s energy, feminine and forceful, sophisticated and playful, delicate and dramatic, sweet and independent.
On her soles: a high-heeled combination of PVC and metallic leather. On her waist: exquisite belts of shiny leather or wire. In her hands: the knitted splendour of the Wirebag.
Spring and Summer; A time of confidence, fun, and harmony. A time for the woman, to shine.
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Tags: ANTEPRIMA, ANTEPRIMA SS 2014, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2014
Mon, October 14 2013 » Fashion Blog
