Dsquared² © Copyright 2014
Once a glamorous star, she finds herself in an institution with her wardrobe of magnificent things. Despite her dizzying mental state she is always dressed to the hilt. Perturbed and wonderful, Dsquared2 takes inspiration from this striking woman for the autumn winter 2014 collection.
Dramatic femininity is underscored with iconic 60s shapes of swingy jackets, short shift dresses, capes and cropped pants. Rich textures are found in mink inserts, python skins, feathers, paillettes and jewels, all symbols of her dazzling former life.
Decadent eveningwear has couture constructions: a narrow long sheath has a cape back, an emerald floor-length cape is covered with long black feathers, and a glistening matte gold and cream gown’s fluted bust is trimmed with a crystal bow at the waist.
Daywear is infused with lashings of drama and opulence. Evoking the structured lines of a classic nurse’s uniform, bonded white leather and stretch inserts are second-skin like mini dresses worn with double-breasted capes.
A felted wool tunic is inlaid with avocado hued mink. Jacquard silk pants with a shimmering lurex pattern are paired with a white fur top. Dense three-dimensional pailettes and jewels encrust mini shift dresses and matching jackets. Sumptuous furs are paired with nude silk lingerie and pajamas.
Detailed construction in a meshed silk nude mini corseted dress recalls an orthopedic garment. Emerald and teal glossy python skins are cut into long-sleeved short tunic and a cropped jacket with matching python pumps, hats and bags.
Brace like mesh and leather ankle straps accent sandals, revealing the same stiletto spiked heel as softly rounded-toe pumps. Another pump style with a squared toe, doctor bags and rectangle clutches are embellished with mink, plumage or jewels. A mini clutch with handles is encased in scaffolding-like metal. Felted round high hats with narrow brims are trimmed in fur.
Bracelets and neck cuffs are also styled like braces; other arm cuffs are loaded with jewels and connected to finger rings shimmering with stones. Oversized Jackie O style sunglasses come with clip-on jewelry over the brow, or sides and temples.
Their sparkle gives off a kaleidoscope of fragmented lights, the flash before her release back into everyday life, where the episode could have easily been a dream.
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Tags: DSQUARED2, DSQUARED2 FW 2014-15, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2014-15
Tue, April 8 2014 » Fashion Blog
Andrea Incontri © Copyright 2014
Decorative Practicality
The role of functionality resets and reinvents itself with pure aesthetics. Rules made to broken. Sharp, observant, and pensive, the Andrea Incontri woman is conquered by these elements of strength that collide also within her wardrobe. While asphalt roads, intersections and junctions serve as contemporary monuments.
This is the inspiration of the forms, materials and the geometry of the embroideries and prints. It is a new form of vanity that is born from a clear self awareness- like the urban charm of a flower that overcomes the hardness of concrete.
Rigorous lines and clean silhouettes for coats as well as cropped earth colored jackets in the finest of wools. Where pockets are no longer just containers but various decorative elements, just as in a three-dimensional trompe-l’oeil. The severity of it all is however, broken up by purely decoratively placed fur in vertical panels.
The mini jackets with back details of pleated loden, are meant to be worn with mock pleated skirts or oversized pants with fur cuffs. Steadfast fabrics like the grisaille of earth toned and moss colored masculine wools. Unexpected plastification techniques with geometric bands resemble familiar horizontal road signs.
Strong contrasting colors in knits, bring a new functionality to the ribbing of men’s socks, that become into the sleeves of a super feminine pull-over. Black asphalt is the theme of velvets, where prominent zips cut through overtly feminine dresses with linear applications taken from the deconstruction of a pocket. Fur flowers emerge like roadside dandelions.
The Circuit Bag is the handbag of the season. Carried on the shoulder, it has bordered edges in reptile and python leathers, a metal closure, and is designed in contrasting tones of duchesse satin.
Colors such as brick red, chemical green, and taillight orange. Two-tone sandals and stilettos with straps and trims revolve like roads that accompany the feet to another seductive dimension.
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Tags: ANDREA INCONTRI, ANDREA INCONTRI FW 2014-15, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2014-15
Fri, April 4 2014 » Fashion Blog
Tue, April 1 2014 » Fashion Blog
Alberta Ferretti © Copyright 2014
Alberta Ferretti’s Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection tells a story of images, words, sensations and emotions which develop within a feminine, luxurious world and become coats, jackets, skirts and gowns.
A metamorphosis that fuses nature and feminine beauty. A femininity that is sweetened and enriched, enhanced by movement, poise and gestures.
«I want to convey emotions. Simple, true emotions like the ones which occur spontaneously when observing nature. The spontaneous embellishment that captures your eye when a flash of light filters through the forest.
I don’t want to surprise anybody with artificial effects, it’s not in my nature. In my opinion, emotions are either spontaneous or aren’t emotions at all.», says Alberta Ferretti.
This enchanting metamorphosis builds this emotion of natural luxury; the birds’ feathers, the leaves on the branches and those that fall on the grassy ground. Tree barks with varying hues, flashes of light that sprinkle gold on every surface they touch.
A forest that comes alive. A nature that envelops the female body in the form of wool panels, seamlessly adorned with flashes of gold lame’, chiffon lined jackets, alpaca coats lined with paillettes reminiscent of the undergrowth’s natural camouflage.
Inlaid jackets of silk and wool embroidered with jais and glass beads, skirts and gowns decorated with feathers, The tridimensional jacquard that reminds us of the bark of a tree, gowns covered in weaved trimmings of silk, leather and wool.
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Tags: ALBERTA FERRETTI, ALBERTA FERRETTI FW 2014-15, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2014-15
Thu, March 27 2014 » Fashion Blog
Modern. Urban. Workwear. Introducing the men’s Fall 2014 Calvin Klein Collection. Reinterpreting the most classic items of a man’s wardrobe, in thoughtful, luxurious styles constructed from elevated materials. Plays of proportion and layers on sharp, confident silhouettes add a refined appeal.
Sportswear and outerwear pieces in masculine proportions, whether form-fitting or oversized, are layered throughout for highly textural combinations. Richly weighted materials and skins – alpaca, brushed silk, embossed wool, double faced cashmere, and leather shearling – add depth and structure, while playing with volume.
The surface is always in focus with unexpected techniques like embossed cable patterns on sweaters, resin coated alpaca, highly glazed nylons, and chicly felted flannels. Technical and noble fabrics are mixed, seamed or pieced, bringing hard and soft, and matte and shine together on tops, jackets, and quilted pullovers.
Referencing more utilitarian workwear, bombers, overshirts and pullovers – in bonded or felted wool, cashmere or shearling – have been modernized into more sophisticated, urban versions of these classic silhouettes. The cognac shearling leather bomber jacket or a generously oversized parka with a removable macro mesh lining and thick, matte finish zippers add an industrial touch.
Pants are offered in two proportionate styles; as a loose two pleat style or a leaner, pencil pant. Graphic sweatshirts that reference the heritage of the house, employ iconic words from the vocabulary of the brand language. Timeless. The tuxedo, but with less formality. A peak lapel worn with a hidden placket shirt and utility boot.
A rich palette of tone on tone caramel, sable and cognac, as well as strokes of brigade green and thistle complement touches of grey mélange and black.
Accessories are industrial with luxurious finishings. The utility boot or oxford, with overall chunky proportions, is featured throughout in brigade green soft calf leather. Each pair features a wheeled double welt construction, box stitched toe with a stacked leather sole.
The pocketed backpack is cleanly finished with matte black studs and industrial zippers, echoing the ready to wear hardware. It is smartly harnessed to a small, leather pouch with a hand-painted edge, as well as to a soft calf leather key fob with an oversized gunmetal utility clip.
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Tags: CALVIN KLEIN, CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION, CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION FW 2014-15, FALL WINTER MEN 2014-15
Mon, March 24 2014 » Fashion Blog
Thu, March 20 2014 » Fashion Blog
Thu, March 13 2014 » Fashion Blog
HOMME
FALL 2014
Ennio Capasa, designer:
Feeling low, feeling a hero, wishing for a change. This is today’s state of mind.
Coming out from the excess of the previous decade, we are searching for meaningful values in an era of contradictions, as David Bowie did between 1977 and 1979. He moved to Berlin where he transformed and worked on three incredible albums: Low, Heroes, and Lodger. He inspired me for this collection as he did many times in my career. Knowing that “we can be heroes for ever and ever”!
LOW AND HEROES
Fabric: Couture double cloth, eco fur, felt. Optical jacquard, pinstripped mohair, duchess satin and silk.
Colors: Off white, light gray melange, glass bottle green, burgundy, deep purple, blue, black.
Outerwear: Tailored and innovative, jacket with plastron, laser cut and sewn lapels, long coats and car coats, zippered shearling, leather biker in French plongè.
Knitwear: Mohair turtleneck, double cashmere, inlaid alpaca.
Trousers: Skinny, loosely flared, fitted biker.
Shoes and bags: Calfskin or mouflon messenger bag with perforated strap, shopping bag with zipper, supple calfskin handbag. Urban cowboy ankle boots with studded straps.
Accessories: Sunglasses in shiny or matte metal also in a mirrored lense version, printed silk scarf, bicolor belt with metallic studs and eyelets.
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Tags: COSTUME NATIONAL, COSTUME NATIONAL HOMME, COSTUME NATIONAL HOMME FW 2014-15, FALL WINTER MEN 2014-15
Wed, March 12 2014 » Fashion Blog
Mon, March 10 2014 » Fashion Blog
GEOMETRY OF STYLE
Prowling the runway is an elegant and damned seducer out of a film noir.
Cloaks and overcoats thrown over the shoulders envelop the Ermanno Scervino Man, disclosing new geometrical proposals that meld the rigour of impeccably tailored creations with the eccentricity of a man who thinks outside the box.
As the designer himself puts it:
“The Ermanno Scervino man doesn’t follow fashion, he studies it. He knows how to appreciate the story of hands and ideas that every garment narrates, a culture that makes him a trendsetter without undue formality or extravagance.”
The motifs of the male wardrobe are reinterpreted, proposing a style that showcases new geometries combined with each other in a harmonious whole.
Micro and macro all-over chequered patterns sketch out the silhouettes of overcoats, jackets, blazers, slim-fit pants, scarves and ties.
Houndstooth, contrast stripes, Prince of Wales, herringbone and bird’s eye patterns on wool and boiled wool fabrics and on felted knit fabrics worked unlined or two-tone bonded, also adorning maxi sweaters in alpaca and mohair.
The volumes of the outerwear are oversize, with the down jacket concealed beneath the parka in wool cloth, which becomes technical when bonded with fleece or comes out into the open embellished with fur.
For the evening, suits are introduced in unusual velvet combinations and chalk-stripes in felted knit.
The accessories follow the motifs of the collection. Footwear features the high-laced Derby with heavy-duty sole.
Colours paint out night shades: black, greys, midnight blue, at times lit up by hints of optical white, plaster, sky and cornflower blue.
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Tags: ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO FW 2014-15, FALL WINTER MEN 2014-15
Thu, March 6 2014 » Fashion Blog
