Precision, ease, intuition. The new Jil Sander Men’s collection is exact and spontaneous.
The codes of the house – pureness, timelessness, a luxurious merging of form and function – are interpreted from a playful angle while keeping true to their essence.
Creative Director Rodolfo Paglialunga merges the pragmatism of “workwear” with elegant quirks of personality, punctuality and deliberate imperfections, suggesting an individual take on formality that brings the Jil Sander man to new ground.
The silhouette is elongated and easy, with a focus on fabrics and textures. Double-breasted coats have welcoming volumes, while suit jackets exude resistance and sturdiness.
Seamless morphing of sportswear and formality creates subtle hybrids: the anorak is made of double-faced cashmere or compact leather, sweater tops are treated with sartorial dedication, shirts are cut to resemble zip-up blousons.
Compact, protective outerwear is mixed with soft trousers and boxy jumpers.
The precision of the cuts is highlighted by the visual tension of the surfaces: checks, pinstripes and other masculine motifs are altered into rhythmic grids, or sliced into neo-geo intarsia.
Broken suits and unexpected color combinations suggest freedom of interpretation and an easy attitude.
The color palette is considered, with unexpected breaks: masculine tones of grey, black, white, camel, and blue are accented with flashes of mustard, rust, and red.
Fabrics are luxurious and classic: double-faced cashmere, dry suiting wools, compact cotton, and bonded leather.
The utilitarian feel of the accessories, robust boots with lug soles and sturdy closures, round and thick dress shoes, strengthens the message – pragmatic elegance.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2015-16, JIL SANDER, JIL SANDER FW 2015-16
Sun, January 25 2015 » Fashion Blog
Andrea Pompilio © Copyright 2015
A military influence melded with the great tradition of Italian tailoring is the driving underlying signature of Andrea Pompilio’s design sensibility. Taking a new direction this season, they are overlaid by an unprecedented dark, austere mood.
Essential cuts and minimal graphic details characterize indeed the wardrobe of the FW 2015/2016’s man. A sophisticated aviator, he transcends historical references through a contemporary interpretation of his own identity.
Pieces standout via a high impact solid palette of navy blue, denim, white and grey, softened by hues of mint, egg and camel, and energized by bright shades of lollipop pink, scarlet red and acid yellow.
Extraordinary detail and texture structures the outerwear. Striking double collars in contrast fabrics feature on oversized single-breasted and double- breasted coats, their silhouettes broken up by high-waisted belts. Shearlings in traditional aviator styles are constructed from mixed materials and shades. A luxurious fake fur in smoke grey alpaca is washed to a fuzzy finish, while rippled leather resembling elephant skin is bonded with wool cashmere jersey in another coat.
Underscoring precise cuts, a ribbon band is inset on coat and jacket’s backs, to follow the curve of the shoulders, and is revealed on the side of jacket sleeves and pant legs. Constructed from contrast fabric or white rubber coating, it outlines the profile, to reiterate the silhouette. Chenille badges, recalling air force decoration, highlight poplin shirts, knits and sweatshirts.
Modern Italian tailoring includes two button and three button fit jackets, paired with roomy straight-legged pants.
Tuxedos in rich forest green and burgundy silk mix modern and refined elements: the handmade jacket’s sleeve cuffs are turned over like an elegant dressing gown, and the pants have an elasticated waist, like boxer’s shorts. The look is worn with striped black-and-white sneakers – a reference to American sportswear.
Accessories highlight both graphic accents and the air force influence: long gloves with contrast pop-colored shearling stripes are layered on bomber jackets and shirts, while huge padded hoods, recalling those seen on parachutist uniforms, top cotton sweatshirts. Simple sacs in shaved calfskin, pony skin and nappa, marked with AP initials, are the final touch to some looks, while a classic derby is constructed in a trekking shoe style, with leather and Velcro neoprene straps.
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Tags: ANDREA POMPILIO, ANDREA POMPILIO FW 2015-16, FALL WINTER MEN 2015-16
Sun, January 25 2015 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Hermès Fall/Winter 2015 Men’s Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Paris 24th January 8pm. Stay Tuned…!!! #hermeshomme
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2015-16, hermès, HERMÈS FW 2015-16, LIVE STREAMING
Sat, January 24 2015 » Fashion Blog
Corneliani © Copyright 2015
CORNELIANI MAN: A PRINCE
From a multitude of styles and languages there emerges the figure of man as a prince: young and confident, free and determined. He is aware of the choices afforded him, and adores change. He reacts to the immobility of form with eccentric touches and unexpected flourishes, such as overcoats finished with a generous knitted shawl collar or a fur biker jacket.
His wardrobe is surprising for its noble fabrics, from knotted wool with a three- dimensional or carded finish and graduated grey mink – needled with exclusive yarn wefts – to cashmere designs with leather details; they multiply the many different solutions reflecting the identity of Corneliani’s prince, as multi-faceted and sophisticated as the natural world around him.
The fusion between formal and luxury casual is emphasized by the dominance of blue and grey, centred on a type of elegance open to different solutions. In this world, varying styles and freedom of movement blend together to control the chaos of nature.
Choosing a long double-breasted overcoat does not rule out single-breasted designs or parkas and short jackets embellished with fur trimming or generous peak lapels. There’s no time for ties: instead there are small neck scarves to round off the luxurious, totally unrestricted image.
Closer-fitting jackets still flow easily with dropped shoulders and comfortably sized sleeves.
Pleated trousers are soft over the hips but end in a drainpipe design which brushes the ankles. The shoes capture a philosophy which combines the modern and the classic: traditional designs come with thicker soles to keep the feet firmly in contact with reality.
A penchant for graphic-style patterns – some of them optical – shadows a gentle world of graduated, slightly distorted and irregular designs, ending in a flourish of floral prints on the knitwear.
Blue – from ink to more brilliant shades – is offset by subtle plant-like greens; sudden flashes of purple break through into the palette of greys, from the lightest, brightest tones through to black and white, also seen in monochrome versions.
Eponymous with strength and stability, a deeply-rooted tree encapsulates the brand’s ties to its values: the finest tailoring is fundamental but reworked with the freedom of an ideal contemporary world close to nature, as interpreted by Corneliani’s prince in a new take on refined elegance.
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Tags: CORNELIANI, CORNELIANI FW 2015-16, FALL WINTER MEN 2015-16
Sat, January 24 2015 » Fashion Blog
Fri, January 23 2015 » Fashion Blog
Fri, January 23 2015 » Fashion Blog
Andrea Incontri © Copyright 2015
A#asia#accessories#archetypes I#international#italy#infinitelypractical#informal
A like Asia, because the Andrea Incontri collection focuses its gaze on this centuries-old crossroads of diverse peoples and cultures. Places, arts and styles rooted in an ancient past yet constantly evolving, with their eye on the future.
A like accessories. The main framework of the collection. Bags and footwear form this season’s nucleus around which the ready-to-wear clothes take shape and come to life.
A like archetypes, because accessories point the way to a return to the origins: here classic models are reinterpreted with an even more contemporary twist.
Bags are multiple, just as their uses are multiple. From shoulder bags to flat, geometric envelopes and backpacks to clutches, these accessories are the essential solution to the requirements of everyday life: versatility, lightness, practicality.
Strictly black natural or grained buffalo skin forms the outer shell of a “surprise” container whose unlined, ultra-light interior conceals little pockets and tiny, extractable bags.
Like the bags, footwear embodies the essence of this collection. Here a meticulous attention to detail, a juxtaposition of different materials, a mixture of styles and variety of shapes – sneakers, derbies, low and regular boots – are parts of a broader, global vision with the accent on quality workmanship and fine Italian manufacturing.
Materials and manufacturing are exclusively Italian, from waxing and brushing horse skin to hand-sewing leather bottom stocks and applying studs to the original pointed loafers that pay homage to the traditional Norwegian shoe.
International, Informal, Infinitelypractical. These adjectives describe the ready-to-wear and the new style permeating the clothes for autumn/winter 2016.
Starting with outerwear. Basic, simple, timeless, easy to wear. And although classic/universal styles inspired the models, the result is ultra contemporary and innovative.
The bomber is made of a double fabric of technical nylon and loden woollen cloth, with an ultra-light eco-down lining, the same used for the denim jackets. The parka can be made entirely of nylon or of total-black nappa. The fulled-wool jacket has leather details, as does the multicolour jacquard carpet jacket evocative of upholstery fabric.
Leather inlays are also seen on the field jacket with eight pockets: pockets everywhere, big ones, small ones and a side one for an iPod.
The shirt recurs throughout the collection: white cotton, printed or tie-and-dye, or a polo version made of technical textile with a knitted-fabric collar. For women, the shirt drops to ankle length, turning into a dress showered with tiny roses that are embroidered or jacquard or printed on a technical base. Roses also appear on the women’s parka and on the light tulle tops.
Materials: traditional textures like knitted cotton, wool worked in various ways, denim and leather are mixed and matched with nylon and technical fibres.
Colours: black dominates a palette that includes cool shades of blue and grey and the warmer, earthy tones of military green, aubergine and russet, plus rather more delicate notes of beige and sand.
Music is an integral part of the show, a veritable show-in-a-show. I’m Not a Blonde, the Milanese duo of multi-instrumentalists and composers Chiara “Oakland” Castello and Camilla Matley, play electro-pop music with varied influences.
Their live performance starts with a destructuring of tracks, featuring a hypnotic repetition of the phrase AI LOVE YOU, to proceed, in the second part, with improvisation and the original versions of Todis and Peter Parker (https://imnotablonde.bandcamp.com/releases).
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Tags: ANDREA INCONTRI, ANDREA INCONTRI FW 2015-16, FALL WINTER MEN 2015-16, Pitti Immagine
Thu, January 22 2015 » Fashion Blog
Thu, January 22 2015 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Valentino Fall/Winter 2015-16 Men’s Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Paris 21st January 5.30 PM CET. Stay Tuned…!!!
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2015-16, LIVE STREAMING, VALENTINO, VALENTINO FW 2015-16
Tue, January 20 2015 » Fashion Blog
It’s a blizzard, boys! Time to wrap up in loads of layers and get to the rave that’s pumping off the top of the snow-capped mountain. Moschino’s Creative Director Jeremy Scott has got you covered on what to wear.
Everything in this wintery collection has been designed to be party proof for the snow, warm enough to get you through the icy conditions, but cool enough to let you breeze right by the doorman.
Trekking through the wintery back woods requires outerwear that befits a bad-ass expedition. Scott has invented enough variations – from cropped shearling bombers and gold foil puffers to patchworked, multi-colored Montgomerys and military coats that come dripping in David Crockett’s fox tails – to suit every boy on the dancefloor.
Once inside the steamy club, the coats slip off, and the bare-chested boys are ready to rock. Back in the chilly outdoors, patchworks of shearling, fox and mink bring out the mountain-man for a wild, evening ride. Fake furs are spotted and striped with bold animal patterns.
Nylon and silver metallic leather stamped with punchy orange hibiscus prints brings a street edge, while rough buffalo check rings in a clear sign of the good, old outdoors. Other materials, like brightly colored fuzzy mohair, classic herringbones and tweeds, blanket the boys in warmth.
This being a rave gathering, not everyone is behaving as expected. 401 jeans’ pockets get ripped off pants and re-sewn up into a mash-up patchwork on cropped jackets. Other signature-Scott hybrids include a shearling biker jacket that’s been crossed with a tuxedo tail coat construction or kilt skirts sprouting scarf constructions.
Long johns, python printed leather trousers, jeans and puffer snowboarding pants are bottom half staples. Footwear is sturdy enough to tramp right through the snow and up the mountain top.
Leather and nylon hiking boots, Moschino leopard print moon boots, wooly mammoth boots, and patent leather expedition boots are ruggedly chic. For tussles and tumbles in the snow, there are shearling trapper hats, long knit caps, ski goggles, and silver ski gloves.
Inventive men’s bags include full fur knapsacks, rhinestone crusted totes, puffer backpacks with Davey Crockett fox tails are roomy enough for all of the evenings provisions. And if it ends up being an all-nighter, let’s hope they brought some instant coffee for the morning after.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2015-16, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2015-16
Mon, January 19 2015 » Fashion Blog
