“L’ enfant du soleil”
I wanted poetry like that of a Michel Gondry movie, of childhood, of decoupages, a childlike woman again, not even, a sexless child.
Who wears masks, puts make-up on and plays with making clothes. Clothes from her father, her mother.
I wanted nature too. Primitive and naive, those are the words that I immediately wanted to attribute to this collection.
Freedom also to do, to say and to have fun, spontaneously.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, JACQUEMUS, JACQUEMUS FW 2015-16
Thu, June 18 2015 » Fashion Blog
Wed, June 17 2015 » Fashion Blog
Wed, June 17 2015 » Fashion Blog
Wed, June 17 2015 » Fashion Blog
Street culture IS culture. It’s everywhere. For Fall ’15 Moschino makes street wear every-wear.
Start with the roots of street apparel; workwear and military. In quilted, inflated, colorised – jolted with bolts of lightning. Camo, for sure, with a logo camo worth reading.
Pitch in a shot of sportswear; basketball tank tops, hockey jerseys, baseball stripes. Teamed with Looney Tunes playaz; tough Tweetie, bad-to-the-bone Bugs, and Sylvester from the block. Tasmanian Devil? The Devil wears Moschino.
But before fabulous-ing trademarked icons becomes too much our trademark – hallo Barbie girl – let’s look at an icon of our own. Toy Bear, Moschino’s cuddly, fuzzy fragrance figure steps up to the runway. He’s our capsule collection’s main squeeze. Love him and he’ll love you right back.
What do you see on the street? Denim? Check. Leather? Check. Underwear as outerwear? Check. Ballgowns…? You better get your eyes checked.
For the finale Jeremy Scott scoured New York City armed with his camera and a passion for expressive font, shade, and spray. His destination? Graffiti gala dresses as fit for the steps of the Met as they are for the subway.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2015-16
Wed, June 17 2015 » Fashion Blog
#GREEK – the future of Versace today.
A powerful silhouette in vivid primary colours of red, yellow and green, along with classic black. Versace tailoring dominates – neat-shouldered pinstripe jackets, long cutaway coats in double-faced cashmere.
The debut of #GREEK, revolutionising the iconic Versace Greek key with playful emojis. It appears on clothing, and a brand new line of accessories.
Geometric shapes run throughout, whether it’s a circle-cut skirt, the triangle of a flared pant, or the circular shapes cut into silk cady dresses.
A print of #GREEK is exploded to different scales in primary colours on dresses, zip-up cropped jackets, and shirts circle-cut in the back.
Outerwear is saturated in colour, like a yellow swing coat and red cape both in double-faced cashmere, or a green parka of bonded suede and leather.
Cut-outs slash through black dresses, some intersected with flashes of colour. Shirts and sweaters are circle cut in the back, while slim-leg pants are cut out at the hem to reveal the boot.
Suede jackets and coats are quilted in the #GREEK pattern, then handstitched in vivid shades, while alpaca zip-up coats pop in strong yellow.
Remixed as if by a DJ are the letters of VERSACE on jersey tops and leather jackets, as well as cocktail dresses embroidered in vivid crystals.
The quilted #GREEK bag comes unstructured in the softest leather, as quilted suede clutches and colour-printed quilted leather with a Greek key chain.
Thigh high leather boots are patent at the front, suede at the back, while suede sandals come with #GREEK metal stack heels and platform soles.
“This is my Versace for today, and forever. #GREEK symbolises everything: the traditions of craftsmanship and the Greek key, the emoji of the future.” Donatella Versace
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, VERSACE, VERSACE FW 2015-16
Wed, June 17 2015 » Fashion Blog
Geometry and dynamism. Clarity and rhythm. The Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 15-16 collection by Massimiliano Giornetti revolves around an idea of unaligned rigour.
The overall simplicity of lines is stirred by controlled asymmetries, brightened by the material tactility of the surfaces, the juxtapositions of textures and densities; multiplied by graphic elements, underlined by contrasts.
The search for haute craftsmanship highlights one of the leading traits of Ferragamo aesthetics, the expression of manual dexterity alongside inventiveness and intuition, rigorous method and experimental freedom.
The silhouette is defined and vertical, with high waistlines. The clean and affirmative shapes splinter and move, crossed by diagonal lines cutting and structuring the silhouette.
Overlapping wraparounds, clean cut necks, and essential sheaths create a simultaneous succession of themes and variations. Athletic stripes run along tight-knit jerseys.
Or become pleats on tweed skirts, dematerialized by the weightless chiffon intarsia that only glimmer when stirred. Contrasting stripes mark hemlines.
Small, asymmetric cloaks and clean-cut long tabards convey a quest for extreme simplification, accentuated and contradicted by playful, contrasting interiors. Resin buttons with concentric circumferences, both functional and decorative, punctuate the figure.
The definition of surfaces is also geometrical and structural: a patchwork of mink intarsia or textured embroidery for lean coats; coloured marquetry creates rhythmical abstractions on chiffon gowns.
The palette is concentrated and captivating, full of harmonious contrasts: black, deep green, brown, touches of yellow, ivory, red, fuchsia. Materials are particular and inviting: wool crêpe, double cashmere, stretch jersey.
The idea of multiple materials and precise design stands out in the rigorous yet eccentric accessories. The sandals with sculpted heels are realised with combinations of crocodile, python, and suede.
Shoulder bags with rounded flaps pair mink with matte or shiny leather. Little cross-body bags designed in fur accompany striped bucket bags that reveal flashes of contrasting lining.
Knotted bracelets in metal and mink and belts in twisted origami seal the search for a blurred and whimsical accuracy.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, Salvatore Ferragamo, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FW 2015-16
Wed, June 17 2015 » Fashion Blog
Sensuality and rigour. Gaia Trussardi contrasts sleek seduction with the aplomb of the uniform in the Trussardi Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection.
She looks to the minimalist movement from which she draws precision and expressive simplicity, but she gives it a contemporary twist by adding a fusion of different influences, contrasts and unexpected elements.
The result is vibrant, dazzling purism that focuses on the woman with her inalienable individuality, dressing her in glamorous clothes with shimmering futurist touches.
The silhouette is sleek and clean yet full of contrasts. The body – agile and dynamic – is perceived underneath garments with simple silhouettes, revealed by light, transparent fabrics and accentuated by restrained asymmetries.
Oversized coats with dramatic martial allure, caban jackets and short menswear-style jackets are worn over slip dresses and camisoles that follow the body’s curves and movements and are made of amazing and totally unexpected plongé nappa leather.
The sensual simplicity of boned tops and bustiers inspired by corsetry contrasts with the severity of the outerwear, with the cool shimmer of Lurex, and with the tactile textures of bulky rustic sweaters featuring different knit patterns made of yarn with metallic glimmers.
The continuous use of contrasts creates a seductive tension. Subversive touches break the ranks: multiple bracelets are worn and craquelé leather is given a metallic sheen. Top-stitching normally used on gloves becomes a precious and distinctive detail on garments.
The stars of this collection are the materials – plongé leather, glove leather, teaseled felt, and double cashmere cloth – enhanced by the simplicity of the design.
The color palette is natural with mineral glimmers: shades of nude, cream, gray, and spicy green with flashes of copper and bronze.
Accessories are pragmatic yet luxurious: open-toe booties and shapely boots with chunky metallic heels, saddlebags, bucket bags, briefcases, and patterned clutches.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, Trussardi, TRUSSARDI FW 2015-16
Wed, June 17 2015 » Fashion Blog
The perfume of China, intense and sophisticated like the view of Shanghai from the Bund, modern and precious like the contemporary art district of Peking.
The Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2015/16 collection takes its inspiration from an unexpected vision of the Great Country, seen through the lens of the highest Italian craftsmanship.
In this interpretation, iconic Chinese elements become luxurious details and leitmotifs of a style that is both cosmpolitan and modern. Oversize gold “pagoda” buttons punctuate the dresseses, coats and maxi-gilets at a raised waist, to create an elongated silhouette.
Ming vase inspired floral motifs in golden metal climb up the transparent plexiglass heels of ankle boots worn with dresses both short and supershort and semi-flats worn with loose, tailored pants.
Decorations become jewels: buckles on the wide belts and on the new Heroine bag that can be worn as a maxi clutch or as a shoulder bag. The last reference to traditional Chinese motifs is in the linings of the long coats, painted and embroidered like cloisonne’ enamel.
Then, a modern motif inspired by the romantic Chinese heroine Maggie Cheung: the windowpane check print cheongesam in the film “In the mood for love.”
This graphic element is newly interpreted as a white stiched leather embellishment on column coats in wool crepe, in white string embroidery on black micropaillette evening dresses, melded with classic floral patterns, in white pailletes on fur, or in silk fringed by hand and added to fabric to create an entirely new type of “fur.”
Shanghai night dresses, very long or super short in hand lacquered chinese-screen print silk, ocelet printed ponyskin, sinuous liquid paillettes with tulle intarsia, and slender wrapped silk with velvet embroidery melding opium garden motifs with delicate traces of tiger stripes.
Dreamy evening dresses flow with soleil panelleled degradé chiffon plissé.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, Roberto Cavalli, ROBERTO CAVALLI FW 2015-16
Tue, June 16 2015 » Fashion Blog
The strong personality of women. In this collection, Iceberg is telling the story of an elegant 1970s aviator: strength, determination and femininity.
Knitwear in primary colors – red, blue color block mode – tempered by beige and gray. Graphic lines: airplanes and a Sottsass spirit meet in an interplay of colored stripes on knits and outerwear.
Cropped aviator jackets in shearling intersected by shiny leather strips. Belts, cut like corsets, that hug and highlight the waist.
We fly, prints are images shot from above. We fly over fields of orchids. We see airport runways. Strict lines, straight cut dresses and tops structured by the high-waisted belts. Blue, black and orchids.
Everything is mixed and the flowers dominate the lines. The heel and sole of shoes are made with pine or mahogany wood, as in ‘70s modernist furniture.
Suede, leather and vinyl define low boots and high cuissards. Here are the two souls of the woman aviator. Strong and sweet.
Severity gradually gives way to livelier shapes in colorful stripes. Glossy black and white vinyl imbue the sporty sweaters with a strong feeling, in contrast to delicate white orchid embroideries.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, ICEBERG, ICEBERG FW 2015-16
Tue, June 16 2015 » Fashion Blog
