Thu, April 7 2016 » Fashion Blog
MOSCHINO FALL WINTER 2016-17 MEN’S COLLECTION – LONDON FASHION WEEK
ART FOR ALL
With thanks to Gilbert & George
When Jeremy Scott visited Gilbert & George for tea, the designer told the artists how he loves the way clothes appear in their monumental body of work, The Pictures. To create depth and movement or, at least, this illusion in these gridded, saturated 2D photographic assemblies, the artists emphasise the dark indentations of shadow and flashes of light at fold and seam.
Might, Scott respectfully enquired, they consider allowing Moschino to recreate the effect on real clothing? To add their 2D to Scott’s 3D, then see what dimension we land in? Not only were Gilbert & George 100 per cent in, but they also invited Scott to sample anything he desired from their illustrious archive of work for this collection. “How thrilling Jeremy loves our art so much he wants to put it all over his trousers!” they said.
Scott added: “There are so many reasons why Gilbert & George’s work resonates so strongly with me: the saturated colors, the slogans, the provocative nature of so many of their subjects. I feel not only a visual attachment to their art but an emotional bond as well. So it’s an honor to bring their art into my fashion and create a hybrid of the two.”
The result? A highly wearable body of work that revels in the punch and dissent of British Art’s filthiest, responsibly-suited iconoclasts as interpreted in cloth by fashion’s pre-eminent subverter of the pop and iconic. From The Pictures there are collaged coats, knit cardigans and MA-1 jackets with patches of the artists’ images of young men’s faces. You’ll see typography, words and phrases from Gilbert & George’s art.
A further group with tailcoats and sharp suits is peppered with crucifix patches that recall their 1982 piece entitled YOUTH FAITH. The tightened grids and grenade flower-bursts on suits and bombers strongly relate to the walls of the Tate. Scott found one G&G subject captured for posterity, wearing a vintage Moschino peace-print tee: so, in a doubly-reflexive semiotic pirouette, Scott reappropriated the print then twisted it into jacquards.
The house Moschino question mark logo is reflected over itself in a nod to that Gilbert & George touchstone. And Scott assembled his own hyper-colour collage of the artists’ abstract images on woollen topcoats, jeans and M-65’s. Because both artists and designers are anti-establishmentarians to their cores, there’s a fiery blast of punk and plenty of future-facing gender crossover.
Just as in the work of Gilbert & George, the more you look, the more you’ll see. As the artists sometimes say: “the whole world should be an art gallery”. With a runway attached…
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Sat, April 2 2016 » Fashion Blog
VALENTINO SPRING SUMMER 2016 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
A return to the beginning of time, in order to create a change in perspective: a pursuit of an essence that generates everything and is necessary today more than ever. Following the thread of an emotional story embedded in the vital magma of contemporary culture, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli accomplish a new stage of a very personal narrative journey for the Valentino Spring/Summer 2016 collection.
Looking towards a place both real and stylized they leave Rome, the center and horizon of their own aesthetic universe, behind them, and always preserving their invaluable expertise of métissage and savoir-faire, they land in wild, tribal Africa. The journey is introspective: emotions and spirituality, sensuality and human touch are the key to the persistent research of beauty as an expression of virtue.
The values of the Maison have always been re nement, individuality and timeless elegance and are reread from a new angle. The collection expresses totemic and primordial grace. At the center of this story is a powerful and persistent gure with an incisive, vertical silhouette. Cuts are reduced to a minimum, as if the garments were created by spontaneous and immediate gestures.
The urge of embellishment is an expression of presence: long tunics are held at the neck by necklaces and ornaments, while prints are concentrated on long dresses with a simple ancestral taste. The body is the protagonist being both vibrant and hieratic beneath scratched leather bustier worn with pencil skirts. Draped fabric generate unique pieces conveying regal grace.
The mask, traditionally used as a form of disguise is readapted as an expression of a symbolic ego and full of pathos, is a recurring motif that appears in multiple patterns on bags, shoes and jewelry. Wood and metal ornaments accent the image, signs of an austere and palpable opulence.
A collaboration with the artist Alessandro Gaggio has led to the creation of several high jewelry pieces in white terracotta with motifs that merge nature and human artistry. Natural and substantial shades make up the color palette: notes of black, ivory, ebony, beige, dark red and forest green maintain the inspiration of the collection close to the earth. Africa as vibrant, as throbbing, as imperfect purity.
These elements, that at the beginning of the 20th century have compelled many exponents of historical avant-garde movements to nourish from this same energy, return today as a compulsory necessity. The analogical, hand-made approach is the antidote to the digital deprivation of individual character in order to maintain authentic individuality.
Thu, March 31 2016 » Fashion Blog
Wed, March 30 2016 » Fashion Blog
CHLOÉ SPRING SUMMER 2016 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
The Spring-Summer 2016 collection captures the spirited optimism of the Chloé girl through a technicolour lens. Embodying a sense of carefree sexiness, her romantic side meets an athletic sophistication. imbued with strength and urban simplicity, the silhouette floats light as air.
Accenting black, white, and denim blues, a sun-flared palette of sorbet tones highlights the linear quality of ombré stripe blouses, rave pants, halter tops, and sensuous slipdresses in shades of lemon, pistachio, lavender, vermillion and palest rose.
Silk chiffon, floral print lace, acid-wash denim, and silk tech knits propose a contrast of sports utility with ultra-feminine flou, as delicate transparency meets a frayed, lived-in opulence.
Edged in graphic lace, delicate smocked chiffon tumbles into box pleated sundresses and camisoles layered with languid tailoring, whilst boyish basics are elevated in fine textiles, like dungarees cut in double georgette or track pants striped in knitted silk.
Sweeping the floor, intense pastel gowns cascade into weightless tiers of diaphanous kaleidoscope ruffles. The Spring-Summer 2016 collection is accented by swinging talisman pendants, and tasseled, totem pouches clasped in the hand.
The Chloé girl wears slip-on knotted slides or a stacked heel sandal laced up the ankle.
Tue, March 29 2016 » Fashion Blog
CARVEN SPRING SUMMER 2016 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
For the Spring Summer 2016 collection, Adrien Caillaudaud and Alexis Martial allow a gust of sea breeze to flutter through their Parisienne’s wardrobe. Taking a fresh and dynamic stance, she adopts elements from workwear before diving into evening, taking her inspiration from the seabed.
Oscillating between close-fitting cuts and looser fits, the season’s silhouette expresses an airy elegance. « Inside-out » jackets and men’s shirts give way to a Sixties style punctuated with circular cut-outs. Dresses and tops suggest the influence of the diving suit, while pleats and frills float like the fins of an urban mermaid. A slogan t-shirt suggests the insouciance of youth, paired with a sensual short skirt. Always high-waisted, the trouser affirms its place as a mainstay of the Carven vocabulary.
Whether technical, embroidered or reworked, fabrics display the breadth of the house’s savoir-faire: mikado, jacquard fil coupé, pleated or embossed textures provide a textural contrast between structure and evanescence. A basic palette around shades of navy, black, beige and grey is brightened with lilac, Klein blue and pastels, while a dark green suggests the depths of the ocean. From these same abysses comes the inspiration for prints and ornaments, from an underwater scene to aquatic shapes and « sea urchin » embroidery.
Belts take their lead from a diving design and shoes borrow the thick rubber sole of beach sandals, perched on a square heel. In full-fronted, strappy or net versions, they bring a touch of bright colour to each look. Wrists display a Carven letter chain or a mini-bag. The Mercer bag once again features its double clasp opening and comes in a variety of shapes, always accessorized with a plethora of keyrings and snap hooks.
Tue, March 29 2016 » Fashion Blog
