Mon, June 13 2016 » Fashion Blog
Thu, June 9 2016 » Fashion Blog
Wed, June 8 2016 » Fashion Blog
DIESEL BLACK GOLD FALL WINTER 2016-17 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
Urban bike messengers served as inspiration for creative director Andreas Melbostad to design Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2016 collection. A renegade, rebellious spirit informs the attitude of the lineup, which finds an ideal backdrop in an industrial, urban setting.
References to bike messengers’ functional and practical outfits echo in the collection, where cycling pants and the new “double trousers,” consisting of shorts stitched with narrow-cut styles, are topped with pieces cut in generous volumes for bold silhouettes.
Everything is infused with a utilitarian feel adding a more elegant, metropolitan attitude to the collection. Shirts show outwear-inspired details, such as zippers, straps and mock necks. These are layered under the hybrid outwear pieces.
The season’s iconic capes incorporate some of Diesel Black Gold’s most signature staples, including bombers, field jackets and parkas. Leather and inside-out shearling biker jackets come also cut in oversized shapes. Elongated nylon vests are worn over jackets, which reveal ribbed knits or jersey sweatshirts with nylon quilted inserts.
Bike messengers’ equipment also inspires the accessories range, featuring leather pouches to wrap around the arm and padded cross body bags. Leather combat boots with zippers enhance the sharp, strong attitude of the collection.
Wed, June 8 2016 » Fashion Blog
MISSONI FALL WINTER 2016-17 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
Missoni Men’s A/W 2016 collection symbolically narrates the tale of its nomadic man’s hypnotic excursion once he strays from the overland trail to trek the remote, mountainous lands of Ladakh. Imaginative anticipation, exploration and physical endurance are the foundation of a journey that erases all ties to place, time and convention while strengthening the desire for adventure amongst the imposing natural elements and spirited native culture. Soft tailoring, noble fibers, intense colors and ornate embroideries evoke these sentiments in a collection that is as much about sport as it is luxury.
Chunky cashmere and cashmere/silk blends, lightweight shetland wools and yak, alpaca and mohair fibers have been masterfully woven and knitted into stylish, utilitarian garments that can weather any winter chill while still allowing for relaxed movement. Shades of camel, amethyst and cinnabar with accents of turmeric and orange agate; sapphire and mineral brown with raids of turquoise and jade; and silvery gray, black and pewter with coral red and azurite blue handsomely encapsulate the aesthetic essence of traditional Ladakhi fabrics juxtaposed with the rugged outcrops and verdant valleys of the natural landscape.
Refinement and sport are key to this collection of pieces that impeccably transition from mountain encampments to urban navigation. Highlights include: two-piece, degradè sartorial suits created on Missoni’s heritage looms in Sumirago, loom-knit blazers, overcoats and gusseted hiking trousers that have been wefted with cashmere and loom-knit down-jackets that have been lined with an over-dyed technical cotton; fully-fashioned, quilted wool garments that have been padded with nylon filament; vests that have been hand-embroidered with ethnic coins; chunky-cable hand-knit cardigans seen with either a degradè effect or with an intarsia of a Ladakhi ibex; striped, macro-space-dye, cashmere pullovers and shaw-collar cardigans; a “short” parka made with space-dyed chain tape and bonded with a technical cotton and various knits embellished with fringe detailing.
This season’s collaborative projects are of a befitting nature. Diemme, Italian footwear manufacturer, has customized its classic Roccia Vet hiking boot, in leather and suede, using Missoni’s macro-space-dye knits for its cushion collar and laces. Porter, the Japanese luggage-and-accessories specialist, has used a specifically- created Missoni loom-knit on four of its most iconic bags: the 2-way garment bag, backpack, rucksack and tote. Converse’s 1970 High Chuck Taylor draws inspiration from 60’s hiking boots and features a Missoni chevron knit, suede inserts and a blooming effect for the rubber toe cap and sole.
Tue, June 7 2016 » Fashion Blog
Tue, May 31 2016 » Fashion Blog
DAMIR DOMA FALL WINTER 2016-17 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
In a symbolic location, Damir Doma proposes a collection bound by sculptural strength, drawing upon the memories & moods of a perennial muse. Fabric works envelope the body in fundamental exercises of draping and repair. As kundera attributes ‘slowness’ to the act of remembering, and speed to the act of forgetting, so the collection considers an equilibrium of the travaillé and the untouched.
The cocooned, trapeze silhouette layers a long, straight jacket and a high neckline over wide, short trousers or a fluid skirt to continue an inherent dialogue between the codes of mens and womenswear. Solid colours warm from black and bone white through deep forest green, caramel, cherry, and prussian blue. Belted kimono coats accentuate a pure line, whilst contoured overcoats are dotted with horn buttons and veiled in fringed wool voile.
A timeworn effect touches garments with delicate and brutal details: selvedge traces pockets, zips, and hems on bomber and parka coats, whilst raw seams frame tailoring in waxed leather and wool. Applied to dry jersey, blotches of overprinted japanese paper isolates the same abstract expressionism as rich brushstroke jacquards and a fil coupé prince-of-wales check stamped with crude ellipses.
Rollneck sweaters and a column dress are cinched with cotton tape (like wide sutures) and softened by the speckled melange of inside-out ribbed cashmere knit. On foot, zipped neoprene boots have been edged in rough suede.
Tue, May 24 2016 » Fashion Blog
CANALI FALL WINTER 2016-17 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
“There is so much of the world that we don’t actually perceive and I wanted to explore this concept for the new season. As in architecture, every detail, both inside and out, was carefully calculated to craft the perfect balance between practicality and style.” (Andrea Pompilio)
For FW16, Canali presents a collection that is an exercise in equilibrium, one in which contrasts take center stage. Luxurious and studied elements come together for a seemingly minimalist look as shapes, materials and colors are combined in unique and purposeful ways.
Tartan and checks in varying dimensions appear in suits, pants and outerwear. Silhouettes tend to follow the body’s natural contours while sleeves, pant legs, collars and lapels slim down for a contemporary take on traditional tailoring. Voluminous coats conceal an unexpectedly lightweight air, thanks to an extremely soft wool and alpaca blend whose longhaired nish adds a layer of unique texture to a menswear classic.
Wool features prominently throughout the rest of the collection in the form of heavy gabardines for suits, jackets, pants, coats and sportswear. An extremely compact and extremely smooth cotton velvet makes appearances in select coats and aviator jackets. Pony hair is also a noteworthy new addition, in various colors and mixed with leather to create textural distinctions.
The palette takes on a shadowy and industrial air, dominated by blacks, blues, browns and grays and illuminated by bursts of vibrant shades like brick, peach, burgundy and mustard yellow. Ultra-slim scarves are knotted as ties while long leather and wool gloves are a natural continuation of sleeves. Rugged loafers and work boots with buckles and oversized travel bags and smooth padded backpacks with tumbled leather straps complete the accessory selection.
Shirt collars are in contrast; suits feature an updated closure with one visible button and two hidden ones; belts are integrated via oversized loops directly into pants and coats, which are rendered even more practical by double pockets on each side that blend style and utility.
Sat, May 21 2016 » Fashion Blog
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Fri, May 13 2016 » Fashion Blog