100% Emanuel Ungaro. True DNA at its purest form.
Maison Emanuel Ungaro’s codes, remain both fundamental and intensified. The femininity, the ruches, the flowers, the prints, and the lines. It’s romantic but tailored, sleek and modern.
The heroic Parisian aesthetic of the early 80’s is reinterpreted by sharper silhouettes under the creative direction of Fausto Puglisi.
Details within the construction become important volumetric elements, modernized by strong, decisive lines. It’s romantically bold. A bold romance.
Multilayered and voluminous necklines bring emphasis to the upper body. It’s the edgy, unexpected charm of the bourgeoisie. The prints, so symbolic of the Maison, coexist with color blocking and ruches.
Fabrics such as gazar and crinoline translate to daywear and bring emphasis to the couture spirit of the collection. Three dimensional jacquard and fil coupe accentuate the intricate textures.
White and black, turquoise and yellow, green and purple.
Royal Rebel: Princess Stephanie Grimaldi…. Like a hurricane hurricane.
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Tags: EMANUEL UNGARO, EMANUEL UNGARO SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Tue, October 11 2016 » Fashion Blog
Ceramics, lamps, objects and furniture of various provenance and periods mix equally with contemporary works to convey a personal, committed, credible and of-the-moment viewpoint. More than a mere backdrop, the environment’s rich cultural resonance permeates the collection.
Past present and future collide in highly sensual, super-organic clothes, brimming with examples of extreme workmanship and a sense of craft so optimized it seems to vanish, as precisely calibrated imperfections inform every seam, collar and closure, among other details.
A feminine silhouette is complemented with dramatic volumes, evident in the bold gesture of a balloon blouse, the exaggerated proportions of a sleeve, and recurrent fringing. Familiar ideas —lace, ruffles, the bias cut— are dismantled, abstracted and recreated for today, while domestic elements, such as tablecloths and undergarments, serve as unexpected sources of inspiration.
Pleating is manipulated with innovative washing and stitching techniques to appear woven and worn-in. A napa dress, slashed and reassembled with crochet, is fragile and sporty at once. A series of black industrial summer looks balances the overall softness of the collection.
Every look is grounded and articulated around a bag. The new shapes of the Hammock bag and the rounded trapeze shape of the new Canoe bag add to the vocabulary of the house’s existing iconic styles, which are reinterpreted here in fresh iterations. A novel entry to the Flamenco family transposes a vibrant carpet design onto suede using an special printing method, resulting in a striking three-dimensional effect.
Extraordinary jewelry rounds out the collection. Apart from a lucky ceramic bat necklace and sculptural silver bracelets inspired by an Ikebana vase, the season’s standout accessory is a calla lily handmade from calfskin, available in stores in various colours on the day of the show.
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Tags: LOEWE, LOEWE SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Tue, October 11 2016 » Fashion Blog
Mon, October 10 2016 » Fashion Blog
Mon, October 10 2016 » Fashion Blog
Past, present and future all play on the new interpretation of the Carven codes established season after season by Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud. The house’s archives serve as the basis for their urban, contemporary vision.
This season, their heroine is Madame Carven’s imaginary heiress, a girl of the moment who invites her gang to spend the weekend at the family castle. Trawling through the attics and cupboards, they discover the great designer’s personal archive and help themselves to their favourite pieces, transforming and even cutting into them to suit their own style.
Elements of the house’s history such as stripes or scarves and crests collide with a street-savvy elegance in a light and playful game of layering.
Looks mix heritage with pure creativity in a melting pot of fabrics and symbols. The lace from a veil is reworked as a crested sweatshirt, a scarf is draped around the body to become a top or a skirt. Madame Carven’s trademark florals turn over a new leaf and look to the future for a mechanical reinterpretation. A choker necklace goes for the twist, worn as a bracelet or a belt. As in previous collections, belting plays a key role, clasping together fluid dresses and tops.
High-waisted skirts, trousers with multi-pocket detail, oversized tops and bomber jackets reaffirm their role as the key pieces of the Carven wardrobe, worn alone or as part of a game of layers and contrasts. A delicate baby doll dress becomes a crisp poplin shirt in one of many examples of hybrid shapes and details. Fabrics and colours also opt for a game of contrasts, as 60s inspired wool piqué and chintz mix with brighter jacquards, or flashes of red, lilac or orange against classic black and white.
Accessories also confront styles and eras. A wide heel brings allows jewelled or strapped sandals to step into a more modern stance, while the Full Joy bag is worked in a wide variety of shades and fabrics cherry- picked from the collection. The family treasure trove also provides a signet ring and chain bracelet, reworked into a variety of ornements, reflecting the sense of happy harmony between styles and eras.
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Tags: CARVEN, CARVEN SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Mon, October 10 2016 » Fashion Blog
Paris based Wanda Nylon, winner of the 2016 ANDAM fashion prize, presented it’s Spring/Summer17 collection, featuring 28 sharp and assertive looks.
The collection is meant for a strong, independent feminine woman, referencing urban aesthetics, and experiments with numerous materials and textures to enhance a play on light, going from opaque Alcantara coats and fluid silk dresses to reflective jackets, iridescent Swarovski crystals mesh separates and see-through silk looks.
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Tags: SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017, WANDA NYLON, WANDA NYLON SS 2017
Fri, October 7 2016 » Fashion Blog
In a romantic ode to the sea, the Vionnet collection for Spring/Summer 2017 celebrates a feminine wanderlust from coastal tide pools to the ocean depths.
Channeling the heroines of Homer’s Odyssey towards a fresh, nautical optimism, a rhapsody of lightness emerges as the silhouette sways in languid motion. Echoes of aquatic flora and fauna abound in the featherweight textiles and ebullient palette that metamorphose into fanning, sculpted silhouettes imbued with the inherent dynamism of Vionnet’s bias cut.
Delicately fluent with crépon chiffon, georgette, silk tulle and encrusted with geometrical lace, floor-skimming gowns are crafted in tiers of plissé or stitched in panels of parachute silk like billowing sails. Rope bodices and belts mirror traditional sailor’s knots, creating intricate linear constructions that control meticulous draping.
Elsewhere a shivering abundance of textures invokes the mysterious romance of an underwater world, from floating dresses swathed in pale fringe and bubble-printed chiffon crépon to white cady tops cut to expose a rainbow strata of layered silk.
Even double-breasted blazers and trimmed trousers behold an innate fluidity: tailored long and lean in shades of ivory and pale blue they bear bold statements of anti-digital introspection embroidered or printed behind curtains of fringe. Collaged across poplin day dresses and wide palazzo trousers, a bird’s eye view beach scene nods to a lucid dream state of summer escape.
The Vionnet ‘Mosaic’ handbag with interchangeable rabat returns as a giant shopper in deep olive calfskin, and the ‘Maddé clutch is worn belted at the waist. Black or silver rope gladiator sandals are crafted in embossed and metallic leathers with a touch of watersnake.
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Tags: SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017, VIONNET, VIONNET SS 2017
Thu, October 6 2016 » Fashion Blog
For his Spring Summer 2017 collection, Anthony Vaccarello has let himself get carried away by the images of the designer, like ashbacks, snapshots.
In his mind, the picture of Paloma Picasso landing in the life of the couturier, with her 1940s’ second-hand clothes and her very own style. She inspired the 1972 “Scandal” collection which was irreverent and disturbing to the eyes of society.
It is this attitude that Anthony Vaccarello transposes in the present. This Saint Laurent woman who, today, draws her references from the 1980s to make them her own. This girl who cultivates a taste for what is kitsch, the bizarrely beautiful, the great classics and a highly individual style.
The starting point of this collection : a dress with exaggerated sleeves taken from the archives. From this thread, Anthony Vaccarello draws a contemporary silhouette, a sort of sensitive and personal collage.
As though this girl whose fashion culture is part of her, restructured the model, brought the shoulders down, attached a sleeve to a bustier, wore it with jeans or under a boy’s jacket – distant evocation of Saint Laurent’s sailor coat.
Corner stone of the fashion house’s lexicon, the tuxedo impregnates this collection. Exploring the tailoring savoir-faire of Saint Laurent’s ateliers, Anthony Vaccarello deconstructs and revises the tuxedo.
There is a second degree in this collection, a collection within the collection of what Mr. Saint Laurent loved above all: twisting bourgeois conventions and irting with bad taste.
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Tags: SAINT LAURENT, SAINT LAURENT SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Thu, October 6 2016 » Fashion Blog
LES SANTONS DE PROVENCE
The Spring-Summer 2017 JACQUEMUS collection refers to one of the emblematic cultural objects embodying the spirit of South of France: les Santons de Provence.
Each Santon can be recognized through specific features of his costume relating to its identity or craft: the Arlésienne, the Grand Father, the Cook, the Sheperd, the woman with lavender, the Bohemian… The collection draws inspiration from these costumes, and offers a modern and free- spirited take on tradition.
The 32 looks echo a certain delicate simplicity to be found in these traditional costumes, and exude a natural elegance. Main fabrics are: linen, cotton, wool and white lace. The 32 looks are easily readable, with clear outlines.
The colors are neutral and quiet: black (brown, navy), white, beige; sometimes contrasted by a bright red and a strong graphical polka-dot pattern referring to the Bohemian style.
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Tags: JACQUEMUS, JACQUEMUS SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Wed, October 5 2016 » Fashion Blog
Colour and precision. As in the work of two giants of photography: the primary colours of Erwin Blumenfeld’s covers for Vogue America in the ’40s and ’50s, and the iconic statue-like precision of Cecil Beaton’s black and white shots.
Rochas’ new summer collection juxtaposes and overlaps dense blocks of contrasting light. Yellow, sky blue, mandarin, lilac and green. Decoration disappears and the spotlight is on construction. Pleats, drapery, flounces. The glorious tailoring of the forties is back in the lines, volumes and silhouettes of every creation. And underskirts add substance to the dream, without ever indulging in nostalgia.
Fabrics are sumptuous: devoré velvet and floral jacquards, masterpieces of hand weaving that transforms spring into brocade and adds opulence. In dresses, shirts and above all reversible coats: creations that do away with the boundaries between daywear and eveningwear, in a triumph of flowers.
Black and white tulle, lace and plumeti bring lingerie to mind, while the colour palette veers from bright colours to the quieter powdery hues of the most refined, ethereal part of the collection.
Hem lengths all touch below the knee. Allure joins the couture spirit of the tradition and petites mains of maison Rochas with a more modern attitude, as if a contemporary Teddy Girl were to put on a formal gown, a family heirloom, and wear it in a casual, unprejudiced way.
As is always the case with Rochas, accessories provide the punctuation in a statement about who you are. Platform sandals with wooden soles and sling- back straps are lit up with colourful ribbons, or adorned with fabrics from the collection (jacquard and dévoré) like memories, echoes of dancehall wallpaper.
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Tags: ROCHAS, ROCHAS SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Wed, October 5 2016 » Fashion Blog
