Salvatore Ferragamo © Copyright 2017
GUILLAUME MEILLAND DESIGN DIRECTOR, MEN’S READY-TO-WEAR
Guillaume Meilland pursued formal fashion studies in Paris in the 1990s, focusing on the rigor and precision of menswear design . Entering the luxury fashion industry in 2002, he collaborated on a number of prestigious menswear lines before in 2007 overseeing men’s sportswear design for Yves Saint Laurent. The following year he was named Senior Designer of Lanvin Menswear, a position he held for eight years before joining Salvatore Ferragamo in September 2016.
As Design Director of Men’s Ready-to-Wear, Ferragamo bestows Meilland with a unique history and ethos with which to further hone his vision for silhouette, construction, fabric and palette – in doing so, forging vibrant new codes in masculine dressing for the luxury Italian House, whether finest tailoring or sports-infused casualwear. “As a menswear designer,” says Meilland, “Ferragamo’s commitment to innovation and quality is particularly palpable; indeed, the notion of ‘Made In Italy’ feels like an exciting responsibility, and one I take very seriously as I integrate the experiences and ideas I’ve accumulated into this latest chapter for the House.”
Meilland continues: “No influence is more present for me than that of Salvatore Ferragamo himself. His restless pursuit of pioneering design, unrivalled craftsmanship and ‘the perfect fit’ feels more relevant today than ever before. As I discover quite how daring he was throughout his career, my greatest inspiration has been to imagine what forms, techniques, materials and philosophies Salvatore would be developing were he alive today. To honor his legacy feels like a wonderful challenge for someone whose own life has been steeped in both a deep respect for traditional craft and a passion for creating new sartorial expressions for the modern man.”
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2017-18, Salvatore Ferragamo, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FW 2017-18
Mon, January 23 2017 » Fashion Blog
A look back into the vocabulary of the house to write a new chapter and move forward. Debuting in the role of creative director, Lee Wood reboots the Dirk Bikkembergs codes to where it all started, skewing nostalgia yet striving for authenticity. The bywords are unmistakable: truth, manliness, assurance. The Dirk Bikkembergs man is, pragmatically, a man – con dent, grown-up – equally at ease in showing o sartorial discipline or a wild, almost tribal side as well as hints of fragility.
Silhouettes are bold, de ned by sharp cuts of militaristic precision that give a Dirk Bikkembergs imprint to staples and classics. Quilted panels suggest protection on crombies and parkas equipped for survival. Outsized pockets recur as a sign, both functional and visual.
Tailored jackets and trousers gain volume and de nition, while knits are thick, textural and tactile. Inside out e ects disrupt the overall strictness with unruly touches which carry on in the wild wool fringes and decomposed patterns charged with a sauvage vibe. The quintessentially masculine spirit is enforced by whi s of heavy duty workwear, camo textures and rhythmic stripes.
Fabrics such as herringbone and worsted wools, cashmere, technical nylon and enzyme-treated cotton are manly and reassuring, in a classic color palette of camel, black, white and navy blue. Traveling across seasons and extremes, the Dirk Bikkembergs man is now ready to front any situation with dignity, physical presence and ease.
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Tags: DIRK BIKKEMBERGS, DIRK BIKKEMBERGS FW 2017-18, FALL WINTER MEN 2017-18
Sun, January 22 2017 » Fashion Blog
Sat, January 21 2017 » Fashion Blog
Moschino 2017 Men’s and Women’s Pre-Fall
PARAMILITARY
The place: an ancient palazzo. The time: an indeterminate future. The collection: a curated clash between dystopia and hope presented by Moschino designer Jeremy Scott. For Pre-Fall and Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 we are on a mission. The models emerge into the scarlet glow of digital clocks set to countdown. The collection is half artful collision, half meaningful division.
The baseline uniform is military. Olive cotton drill and parachute silk are issued as jumpsuits, elongated MA1’s, field jacket skirts, and camouflaged combat separates. These are worn alongside webbing harnesses, combat boots and cavalry boots. Ripcords provide ruche and gather, a hooded wind-cheater is deployed as a ruffled dress, and that camo’s color-scheme is twisted from you-don’t-see-me to oh-please-do: but this much more than a by-the-numbers subversion of military gear.
Because – BANG – there are tulle-pumped evening gowns and tailcoats strafed with scenes of conflict. Elegance fighting back, beauty uprising. These scenes run from Italianate frescoes depicting the eternal struggles through to Transformer laser-lit panoramas of epic battles in space. Sometimes the decoration is a source of conflict: a fresco half painted over by heavy black brushstrokes, an olive drill evening gown or overprinted denim jacket daubed with the outline of roses.
There are other tensions, other ambiguities at play here too. Moschino-classic black leather biker pieces are cut in with panels of gold on back floral jacquard: hard and soft. Jeremy Scott is proud to have recruited Judy Blame to contribute his hand-hewn headpieces: berets strafed with metal hardware that resemble disassembled Swiss Army knives.
Beauty conjured up through the magic of feeling. Pre-Fall or Pre the Fall? From then, for now, until when? Beauty and freedom are worth fighting for. That marabou rainbow burns brightest when set against a dark background. This season Scott delivers an anti-uniform for whats to come. So rise up and get dressed before the clock counts down to zero.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2017-18, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2017-18, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2017-18
Sat, January 21 2017 » Fashion Blog
For his Autumn/Winter 2017 collection, Neil Barrett looks at thè past – his own, and that of his label – and reinvents it for thè twenty-first century. The foundatlon Is tailoring: a Nell Barrett hallmark, and thè root of proportlon In men’s clothing. Barrett focusses his attentlon on tradltional men’s sults, using them as a template for an exploratlon of proportlon and volumes.
Influenced by his art collage years In 1980s London and his family’s traditlon as milltary tallors, Barrett mlxes dlfferent flts In a litany of tailoring and coating fabrics, to create new silhouettes for his man. They have an echo of thè past, but feel resolutely contemporary.
Oversized jackets and coats sport a dropped shoulder, but are tailored to fit perfectly around this volume, contrasting with drainpipe trousers or knit joggers. Slender jackets are worn above wide cropped pants. The notion of thè hybrid is key: a hybrid silhouette, oversized or slim, is a signature.
Garments fuse elements of sportswear and tailoring, cutting track pants in tailoring fabrics with press-stud side fastenings, or trimmed with a sports stripe, sometimes painted. There are also hybrid garments, cross-breeding long coats with puffer jackets, jean jackets and biker styles, as well as single and doublé breasted suit jackets. The two can be separated, but fused together they form a unique proposition.
If tailoring forms one line of heritage, thè other comes from thè dynamic energy of thè 1980s. The street-style of thè eras magazines and thè style dubbed Buffalo is evoked in thè flashes of bright colour, reinterpreting Nick and Barry Kamen’s look. Yellow, red, hazmat orange and cobalt combine with an otherwise restrained palette of black, grey and white.
Underscoring thè influence of thè eras are lyrics from thè songs of Echo & The Bunnymen and The Cure, alongside graphic treatments derived from tour imagery of Siouxsie and thè Banshees, with permission from thè artists to use and rework their originai imagery. The show features their music on thè soundtrack, alongside modern musicians influenced by their legacy.
Contemporary counterparts, new iterations, like thè clothes on show. Looking back at Neil Barrett’s heritage inspired him to combine mens and womenswear in a single show, for thè first time in a decade. The women collection underscores thè fundamental themes of thè menswear – new volumes in tailoring, pops of primary colour, a fusion of sports and suiting.
The dropped shoulder is exaggerated above a drawn-in waist, while high slits allow slithers of brightly-coloured layers to show. Slashes under sleeves allow sensuous glimpses of skin under tailoring and shirting, adding a touch of thè feminine to thè quintessentially masculine.
Mens and womenswear share fabrics: nylon is a key contrast to traditional tailoring in pinstripe and chalk-stripe flannels, alongside coating wools and cashmere and fluid viscose-wool gabardine. Knits add texture and pops of brilliant, saturated colour, elongated into dresses for women and match with shirts for unconventional “twinsets” for men.
They are executed in slick technical knit yarns, intensely hued, or in mohair – a punk stalwart here used for intricate intarsia designs. The brilliant shades of thè knits are echoed in block-colour nylon shirts, and in details like hand top-stitching cross squared-toe boots, or straps of leather across trousers, shoes or utilitarian bags. The entire collection is a play on past and present: reinventing thè styles of thè past with thè proportions of today.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2017-18, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2017-18, NEIL BARRETT, NEIL BARRETT FW 2017-18
Fri, January 20 2017 » Fashion Blog
Fri, January 20 2017 » Fashion Blog
Fri, January 20 2017 » Fashion Blog
Diesel Black Gold © Copyright 2017
“URBAN NINJA”
The uniforms of Japanese ninjas served as inspiration for Diesel Black Gold creative director Andreas Melbostad, who reworked iconic Diesel Black Gold staples with new shapes and proportions infused with an urban combat mood. The mysterious, enigmatic attitude of Far East’ covert agents and mercenaries informed the look influenced by the intriguing Japanese martial arts.
Kimonos, with their iconic belts and wrapped silhouettes, strongly echo in many of the pieces, such as nylon bombers, leather and denim tunics, as well as hybrids of leather biker jackets and coats. The ninja inspiration continues in the range of cropped pants. Tie belts and applied pockets give a functional aspect to their look. Robe belts wrap the waist, while sartorial blazers show ninja snap closures.
Diesel Black Gold’s signature industrial attitude is celebrated with the oversized parkas with exaggerated hoodies. Leather jackets are embellished with Japanese monograms. The ninja-inspired look also informs the women’s capsule collection, which is launched on the men’s fall catwalk. The focus is on the hips with tie-belts cinching a leather dress, as well as a tunic crafted from denim with quilted nylon inserts.
The feminine attitude of short plissé pinafore dresses is empowered through the insertion of industrial metallic hardware, layered onto printed shirts. Silhouette is inspired by the kimono design. Japan’s denim tradition meet the brand’s upscale skills in the jeans, which feature a mix and match of fabrics, such as quilted nylon, as well as embroideries of Japanese monograms and symbols.
Ninja boots and biker boots complete both the men’s and women’s outfits. The contemporary, dynamic collections offer a dynamic, urban take on the ninja look with a captivating blend of Western and Eastern references.
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Tags: DIESEL BLACK GOLD, DIESEL BLACK GOLD FW 2017-18, FALL WINTER MEN 2017-18, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2017-18
Thu, January 19 2017 » Fashion Blog
1+1. A kid, tapping away on a keyboard. Exploring a binary code to connect multiple realities. 1+1. Single digits keep their singularity, no matter what. 1+1+1. Regardless of how far the connection stretches. 1+1+1+1. 1+1 is oneplusone and that’s it.
Visions that spin, in a span, fast. Vortexes that draw bridges, bravely. Shamans in code-sharing with digital pioneers. And viceversa. Healing in computing. Raw. Primeval. Primal. Primordial. Fastforwarding in a supercut. Zip zap.
Too long, a bit big: a belt helps. A patch bag, too. Leisure suits traveling from bedroom to boardroom. Formality entering a void. Teddy bear. Polyester. There’s comfort in quilting. Stripes. Checks. Patch pockets, fur patches. Visual addition, retinal stimulation.
Scribbles, loops, messy fur, messy brushstrokes: a door to the wilderness. Padded vests, padded slacks, roomy jumpers: keeping the inner child satisfied. Eyeballs around the waist. A tail, at the neck. Decoration, as a pastime. Trainers, from the cave. Screen glasses. 1+1. Tapping away the keys of multiple wardrobes.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2017-18, MARNI, MARNI FW 2017-18
Thu, January 19 2017 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Valentino Fall/Winter 2017-18 Men’s Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Paris 18th January 5.30 PM CET. Stay Tuned…!!! #VALENTINOLIVE
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2017-18, LIVE STREAMING, VALENTINO, VALENTINO FW 2017-18
Wed, January 18 2017 » Fashion Blog
