Wed, March 7 2018 » Fashion Blog
Wed, March 7 2018 » Fashion Blog
ALTUZARRA FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
“Last season, I was inspired by a fictional character, the idea of a fantastical warrior woman. This season as I’m nearing our 10 year anniversary, I have been thinking a lot instead about the Altuzarra woman and the friends and family who embody the brand. The collection grew around the idea of memories of women I grew up with – from my mother getting dressed for work; and my teachers, to women I saw on the street in Paris in the Eighties, and those in the pages of magazines. I was also inspired by the women I work with, the women I am friends with, and the multiplicity of roles they play in their own lives. This is the through-line this collection was built around.”
Joseph Altuzarra
Tue, March 6 2018 » Fashion Blog
Tue, March 6 2018 » Fashion Blog
Tue, March 6 2018 » Fashion Blog
Tue, March 6 2018 » Fashion Blog
Tue, March 6 2018 » Fashion Blog
MARINE SERRE FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
Manic Soul Machine draws from Marine’s last six months of experience as a designer at the helm of an emerging label. Though deeply anchored in past and present, Marine Serre’s upbeat radicalism always keeps the future in sight. Fall ’18 unveils a splicing of fragments from contemporary life with futuristic references. Tensions combine and evolve, bringing high-end fashion closer to its logical and necessary next step. Doing away with replicas of used looks, but upcycling actual used shirts into unique and irreproducible pieces with a refined, post-apocalyptic stature.
Marine Serre reacts to today’s reality through pragmatic and committed choices. The ‘ethical’ or ‘social’ labels have become far too limiting for what is going on. This is a new reality fashion, that will not be pigeonholed and does not compromise, but simply absorbs, reacts to, and works with the real needs, situations and fantasies over garments in the world today. Why would the world today need another fashion brand? Marine’s own answer: the day of the romantic designer, standing safely in a zone outside of business and production, is over. Inventing fundamentally new solutions to produce garments today is just as exciting to her as combining disparate chains of references on the aesthetic level.
Marine Serre is determined to build a brand that is playing with clothing in its entire scope, including its physical, material, cultural and dream-like dimensions. What Marine Serre truly stands for is a genuine care for reality, grasping a new and radically direct authenticity and inclusivity. She is driven by the desire to push the world of fashion some inches toward an actual future. Manic Soul Machine unfolds through a triptych of freeform movements, each a complementary facet of Marine Serre. The crescent moon from her previous collections has developed into an entire visual lexicon of its own.
The crescent is found in prints of different sorts, in almost all new patterns, in earrings, and huge logos. They are seen glinting on every look, while Marine’s trademark moire fabrics and catsuits emerge at their own rhythm. First, Manic Soul Machine tweaks the vocabulary of utilitarian wear, fusing rough edges and protective outerwear garments with echoes from couture. Stereotypical outerwear such as the biker, denim, or horse rider’s jacket, are reconstructed, adapted and reimagined for future survival.
Jersey and mousse answer to a need for comfortability and protection. Practical bottle, lipstick and phone pockets replace the classic handbag. The functional is never dismissed, but enhanced, while lightweight, wearable shelters come to underline a sharp femininity. A layer below, in the second sequence, reality hits again in another way: even simple cotton t-shirts find their way to the runway. Garments become simpler, uncomplicated and evident. This is the everyday morning wardrobe of Marine’s quintessential commuter, who instinctively picks up signifiers along her daily routine, but with a creative twist, energy and humor that can never be fully repressed.
The pared-down suppleness of athleticwear surfaces through gymnastics hints, and the first upcycled pieces are introduced. The closing act then unleashes the wild clash of inspirations that always remains at the core of Marine’s practice. Clean surf-suit and gymnastic tops flare into floating silhouettes covered in vibrant contrasts of colors and patterns. Techniques collide, and upcycling takes center stage. Used garments are processed as raw materials for a radically new aesthetics.
A series of hybrid dresses, made from repurposed second-hand scarves, are confronted with sportswear shapes and finishings. FutureWear appears bluntly handprinted on one single silk scarf. Then, a huge flamenco-inspired white dress turns up, born out of used shirts and a surf bodice. The crescents are evolving everywhere, spreading from ‘moon-ogrammed’ dresses to trompe l’oeil flower and moon-dotted patterns.
Tue, March 6 2018 » Fashion Blog
ISSEY MIYAKE FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
When thinking of the world of nature in the cold harsh winter months, there are enduring plants and animals living and waiting for spring to blossom. Quiet strength and gentleness wraps around them. Nature is a continuous source of inspiration.
Knit and pleats are both incorporated in this season’s Steam Stretch to give the new texture. Weaving low count wool thread into the textile creates a new knit-like texture.
It generates a lightness that bounces like pleated material and a functionality that is easily cared for, bringing joy and fresh surprise to the modern lifestyle.
ISSEY MIYAKE’s concept «A Piece Of Cloth» continues to evolve.
Mon, March 5 2018 » Fashion Blog
CARVEN FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
When I arrived at Carven last year, I wanted my debut to be strong visually – a reimagining of how the house is relevant today. Now that I have completed a full cycle of seasons here, it felt time to introduce this collection to you directly.
The girls who catch your attention today dress differently than just a few years ago. This has been on my mind lately as I notice women in Paris and beyond asserting a wider spectrum of identities than ever. In the context of Carven, I envision a collection of individuals whose confidence is harnessed from their contrasts.
They project their inner nature as an outward expression of style. It’s exciting to see eccentricities replacing perfection. This makes me think that no state is more absolute than their natural state. As such, the clothes they wear reflect their values, experiences and character in an ever-changing, versatile mix.
To me, this is what makes a girl of our time. Applying these insights to the FW18 collection, I pictured girls who are grounded yet always exploring. Mme Carven loved to travel and so do I. But where she touched down in far-flung destinations, I collect source material from all over without any literal referencing.
Instead, a variety of outdoorsy touchpoints – fisherman waxed jackets, quilted paneling, blanket checks – have been spontaneously reimagined with added personality. Certain pieces tap into nonspecific memories; a reworked tennis sweater, panels of a vintage lily print and modified argyles, or flannel washed far too many times.
Shifting proportions are an exercise of opposing forces: solid, sporty contours versus sheer fluidity, stiff versus soft wools. Whether higher-waist pants, knit leggings, irregularly pleated skirts, ruched shirts or mixed-material dress, the result must be wearable.
Fabrics relate to each other; two prints featuring whimsical pottery and jewellery shapes return in lace and as a subtle devoré. Even a multi-coloured wool picks up the motif as an enlarged pattern. Plaids, stripes and dots play out on surfaces and within jacquards.
Embroidery fragments offer a meaningful hand touch. I wanted the looks to feel uplifted and energized. Shoes, bags and jewellery continue to be decoratively dynamic, reinforcing an artisanal focus. Oversized colourful tassels, climbing cord and ribbon accents are becoming a new Carven signature; this time, they adorn crepe-sole utility boots and ballerines with low slanted heels.
Bags with removable charm closures, and pearls that coil around the ear become pieces that set the Carven girl apart. Otherwise, a new postman style remains relatively classic. Finally, it seems worth mentioning that my view of Carven accommodates both girl and woman.
In the broadest terms, this collection is simultaneously youthful and mature in statement and in spirit. I think of everyone projecting themselves onto the looks, adapting elements without limits; here is where you find Carven’s potential. In this way, you can sense that those who wear Carven turn heads because they fashion themselves from a personal place, and with purpose.
Sincerely, Serge
Mon, March 5 2018 » Fashion Blog
