Ermenegildo Zegna© Copyright 2019
Walks of life
Life, streamed. A makeshift runway creates a tangle of crossing paths in the open spaces of the hall of Milano Centrale, the railway station that’s a landmark of the city. A place of endless passage, where individuals of all walks of life have met for almost a century, and continue to do so every hour of every day, arriving and departing. This place fueled on diversity acts as the lively backdrop of a collection that is a connection of diversities.
“Borders keep being narrowed throughout the world – says Zegna Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori – I felt the urge to advocate the power of openness and multiplicity through my own means as a fashion designer, expressing awareness and responsibility at every step of the creative process, from textile-making to devising new categories of clothing to the staging of the fashion show in such a meaningful place. In doing so, I keep perfecting my vision of the contemporary metropolitan wardrobe: an idea of tailoring for a cross-generation of global customers”
This season, a soft sense of formality comes to the fore, attuned to the industrial drum of the concrete jungle to match the needs of fast, connected lives. Categories are mixed and hybridized: jackets have outerwear pockets; shirts become jackets in boxy, functional volumes; blousons sport tailored collars; cargo pants are sartorially inclined. Even the quilted puffer jackets are constructed in the tailoring atelier, gaining an elevated touch. The silhouette is personal, effortless and taut.
Outerwear, either long or cropped, is dramatic and voluminous, with bubbly bombers, quilted parkas with detachable collars and knit overcoats; jackets have lean, longer volumes, concealed closures and geometric pockets; full trousers narrow towards the elasticated bottom. Knit is a building block that offers further textural stimulation. The energy of the connection is highlighted by the spirited mix of patterns: jacquards singularly adapted to each garment; textural weaves of cashmere, paper and leather; slogans and metropolitan scenes turned into bold visual abstractions either as prints or jacquards.
Looks are grounded on bold-soled zippered boots and multi-material sneakers, with the iconic Cesare being available for complete customization as #MyCesare is launched online on the night of the show. Those seeking to personalise with My Cesare can do so in-store, at selected Ermenegildo Zegna stores worldwide, and online post-show on Farfetch and WeChat. In keeping with the assertive functional mood, bags are roomy and geometric, with modular solutions.
Fusion and manipulation are the bywords fabric-wise, too. Under the slogan #UseTheExisting, the collection, supported by the Zegna textile division, is almost entirely made with exclusive wool, cashmere and nylon fabrics created with innovative processes from pre-existing sources. The result is a luxuriously supple yet responsible fabrications that are recycled as well as recyclable. The exclusive fabrics give a dense, textural shimmer to a metropolitan palette of white, Felt, Commissar and Warsaw greys, Beluga black, Notte blue, khaki, Syberian green, lit by touches of Absinthe and Citrine quartz and amalgamated into fused compositions.
Diversities get connected, at every level, and streamed live across all the screens in Milano Centrale for passersby to enjoy and further connect.
Credits: Alessandro Sartori Artistic Direction, Wladimir Schall Music, Bureau Betak Event Design Direction and Production
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Tags: ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA FW 2019-20, FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20
Mon, January 21 2019 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Hermès Fall Winter 2019 Men’s Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Paris 19th January 2019 at 8 PM CET. Stay Tuned! #HERMESHOMME
Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, hermès, HERMÈS FW 2019-20, LIVE STREAMING
Fri, January 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
Reinterpreting masculinity without the limits imposed by cultural stereotypes and by the centuries- old trappings of sexism. Analyzing with clean eyes man’s natural eroticism and the ambiguity that comes from male complicity, so as to liberate both expressions from the pitfalls of camaraderie. Embracing the pursuit of a new path for narrating the aesthetic choices of a new man. With no pre- set theories and no codes. This N°21 Fall/Winter 2019 collection marks the shaping of a men’s wardrobe that takes place free of all preconceptions.
«For too many years men’s fashion let itself be imprisoned by genres and trends, from dated businesswear to the more recent sportswear. I thought the time has come not only to jumble up references but also to construct a type of apparel that can bypass all classifications, just as are doing now in everyday life the new generations of men, from millennials to the men of subsequent generations. I’m convinced that without the affects of stereotypical cultural limitations on how they dress, men become better able to understand not simply themselves but also the world around, including the major decisive change on the part of the female universe», says N°21 creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua.
EROTICISM It’s the elusive, fleeting atmosphere of a world made up more of signs and signals than of conspicuous appearances. Rather than muscles, it is the tailoring of jackets that accents the plunging necklines of a double tank top, the layering of low-cut sweaters, the see-through effect of loose-stitch cable knits. Or it’s the double sleeves in jersey that emerge from those on a wool sweater, as well as the little cardigans in wool punch-needled with chiffon that assume a slightly rigid boxing shape yet with all the softness of cashmere. Likewise, it’s a story unfolding from the pants, coats and shirts in a leather-mimicking glazed poplin; from the leather duffel-coat with neoprene lining; from the blanket stripes fashioning coats and jackets; from the navy blue peacoat with narrow shoulders; from the neckties in superfine kid mohair; from the shirts with contrast piping; from the double zip ankle boots and the laceup boots with zips on both sides.
AMBIGUITY Rather than an identity game, it’s the inflection of a basic attribute of male sensitivity that instead of translating into a stereotypical sense of camaraderie takes shape and thrives in terms of aesthetic choices. Evident in the glossy radzmir coats, and in: the bombers that through an interplay of zips front and back gain in volume, dropping shoulders and leaving the torso free; the black lace tuxedos that enjoy the dual option of having either a black & blue lace shirt or a leather polo underneath. Also in: the black lace and the fake leopard fur coats, the diagonal-rib gabardine business pants, the shiny oversize parkas with sheepskin padding.
«It’s a male journey into a wardrobe that’s been recast,» Alessandro Dell’Acqua concludes. Accomplished with the chromatic decisiveness of black, gray and navy blue, offset at times by sporadic flashes of red, green, camel. Accompanied by sailor satchels and tote bags in glazed poplin, in soft nappa leather, in patent leather. Complete with printed logo or, new this season, a logo jacquard.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, N°21, N°21 FW 2019-20
Fri, January 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
Fri, January 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
FADE IN: CINECITTÁ STUDIOS – SOUND STAGE 10
The ruins of Caracalla baths comme discotheque as imagined from Fellini’s La Dolce Vita set the scene for the Moschino Womens Prefall and Mens Fall collection. Harringbone tweed coats embroidered with Latin lettering resemble ancient chiseled tablets pierced with deep red and golden yellow satin sashes, ruffles and bows mixing staunch menswear staples with the elegance and drama of couture evening gowns.
Amongst the cast of characters, there are nods to Fellini archetypes found in a variety of films: Satyricon, 8 ½, Casanova, Roma and La Dolce Vita. Roman mythological creatures and Latin inscriptions are resurrected for a red and blue scarf print of regal proportions. Centurion armour re-approached and mixed with eveningwear for women and sportswear for men.
Opulent court gowns from Italian nobility are shortened, cropped, dissected into a bodice and separate cage skirt touching upon another note in the Fellini oeuvre. Tracksuits adorned with jewels and intricate tarnished metallic gold embroidery create embellished “bones;” showing ribcages and femurs.
Flourish and flair mix and mingle with deconstructed “off duty” showgirls fringed in tiered beading then juxtaposed against duffels and bombers; padded, quilted and remixed to add an unexpected drab military foil to all that glamour.
Are they extras between scenes running in their period costumes with their own parka layered for warmth? Are they doing double duty filming scenes in two different époques?
Exaggerating the frivolity and sensibility at the same time, it needs not make sense as it seeks not that. It only seeks to inspire and intrigue. It is surreal. It is cinema. It is Fellini. It is Moschino.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2019-20
Thu, January 17 2019 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Moschino Fall Winter 2019 Menswear and Women’s Pre – Collection Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Rome 8th January 2019 8 PM CET. Stay Tuned…!!! #MMXIXMOSCHINO
Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2019, LIVE STREAMING, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2019
Mon, January 7 2019 » Fashion Blog
Entwined in an urban jungle, the Spring/Summer 2019 Collection by Karl Lagerfeld delights in the symmetries of the natural world, where the pragmatic and the exotic combine.
Utilitarian romance abounds in a mineral palette of sage, cognac, burgundy, tangerine, optic white, denim, and sand. Garments are engineered for an evocative, feminine line.
Through looking-glass transparency, airy perforations breathe life into contoured masculine shapes: gathered patch pockets, ruched sleeves and a bib collar softens jackets, parkas and fluid blousons in embossed FF logo leather, summer wool, or PVC.
Double corsets define a graphic waist sculpted in rich leather or matte poplin, as print organza jacquard and filmy intarsia knits create sensual shadow play.
Tessellated patterns swirl in circles of flora and fauna across iridescent silk dresses, refracted furs and full skirts above scuba court shoes and sandals.
Designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, the Spring/Summer 2019 Accessories Collection features the iconic Peekaboo bag adorned with its DeFender waterproof shell, interchangeable handles and novelty utility pockets: echoing tool belts with pouches for your phone and coins.
The legendary Baguette returns, adorned in fantasy sequin embellishments and featuring a new oversized shape with ultralight glove-soft embossed logo leather that appears also on the new ‘Upside Down’ folding envelope bag with a FF logo clasp.
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Tags: FENDI, FENDI SS 2019, SPRING SMMER WOMEN 2019
Sun, September 30 2018 » Fashion Blog
Sun, September 30 2018 » Fashion Blog
EVASION OF CONTEMPORARY INNOCENCE
Innocence, naive, sunkissed. The freshness of a life lived in open air provoking adventures of the everyday. Alberta Ferretti’s Spring/Summer 2019 collection is an intense, delicate and natural development of the contemporary feminine aesthetic through a story of the complexity of a woman who moves through the sustained rhythms of everyday life.
“In this collection, I wanted to create a new attitude that encourages women to voice their strong personality through innocence, gentleness and an almost dreamy calmness. It is with this thought in mind, I was able to build a story that describes a physical adventure and an internal exploration, a more introspective journey. This leads to reflecting on the joys of living, while provoking women towards a deeper understanding of themselves in this world,” said Alberta Ferretti.
A strategic use of iconographic references, that have become a part of Ferretti’s DNA. A new silhouette of varying volumes and shapes that skim the body. Hues from pastel pink, light blue and green encompass the colors of the desert at dusk. Plissé soleil gives new meaning to gowns and short tunics. The pursuit of perfection seen through the craftsmanship of crochet embroidery on chiffon and the San Gallo lace highlighted on the mini poplin dresses, slips and rompers. The utilitarian inspired trousers are redesigned in unexpected shapes. A contemporary emphasis on feminine sensibility progress the collection with bush jackets of a parachute effect. Coats and jackets shown with detachable pockets. A dynamic range of daywear that separates itself from streetwear, shown in strength and details of the designs, while supporting the need for sportswear in a variety of romantic nuances while maintaining a relaxed, effortless glamour.
Accessories make a bold statement; large crochet raffia backpacks paired with flat sandals in braided ribbons.
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Tags: ALBERTA FERRETI SS 2019, ALBERTA FERRETTI, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2019
Sun, September 30 2018 » Fashion Blog
BARE ESSENTIALS
MOOD Cleaning up. Starting from the fabric. And from the design. Constructing clearly legible, confident messages. Getting down to basics to be incisive. Bypassing overlays to make the idea clear. Precise adult attitude; no head in the clouds. Originality. The N21 Spring/Summer 2019 collection is set in motion by the inflection of couture fabrics, to describe casual attitudes with distinct lines, volumes, shapes. Never random.
ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA «My approach to this collection springs from a desire to bring design back to fashion, so as to attain a more original result, less in sync with the prevailing norms. I used fabrics common in high fashion, from vitrified chiffon to polished eco ostrich, to heighten awareness of technical treatments; and as a way to lay bare structure, this served me in designing clothes more clear-cut of shape. I believe in the preponderance of the project’s originality and in the rediscovery of make-a-difference detailing. In this sense, the clothes in the collection talk about the evolution of my ideas on fashion,» says the creative director of N21.
CARVING AWAY From a sartorial technique comes the effect of laying a dress bare, reducing it to a skeleton of feathers to wear as if a coat over slim tube dresses or over monochrome skirts with vitrified chiffon top. A similar effect emerges also in the tank tops and in the sequin-triangle slip-dresses with T-shirts and sheaths underneath.
NUDE It is both a color and an effect. It is the «fleshtone» of superlight nylon knits with black bands at bustline and of a multiprene suit. But it is also the back opening of a caban over a skirt, and it is the oblò on the shoulders of a slimfit sweater. Likewise, it is the sensual effect of all the clothes with sudden, surprisingly erotic cut-out nude parts.
SIMPLICITY It’s there in the simple, straight lines and volumes of dresses in duchesse, in faille, in solid tone, in tie-dye… all which find a touch of complexity thanks to a big bow in back or through flat asymmetry-defining draping.
MATERIALS An unprecedented use of fabrics and new fibers. Multiprene, common in the construction of bra cups, becomes skirts and suits. Nylon yarn composes the knitwear. Faille gives definition to the evening dresses and to the sporty anoraks; duchesse serves in creating ultrashort skirts, organza in fashioning both dresses and feather-covered bags. Chiffon is vitrified while faux ostrich is coated and polished.
ACCESSORIES This season marks the launch of «Angela»: multiprene handbag complete with three long gold tone brass chains and with a delicate buckle clasp. It’s the lead item among accessories that, in addition to organza & feather rucksacks and totes, include strappy satin bow sandals and precious nude effect sandals with latex ankle strap and skinny rhinestone band. All with high heel and, colorwise, always matching the dress.
COLORS Essential, color block style. Starting from absolute black. And then: nude, pink, coral, fuchsia, dark red, acid green. Invariably plain, never in mixes. Definitely strong, decisive.
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Tags: N°21, N°21 SS 2019, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2019
Sat, September 29 2018 » Fashion Blog
