BACKSTAGE MARC JACOBS FW 2019 COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
Thu, February 14 2019 » Fashion Blog
Thu, February 14 2019 » Fashion Blog
PRABAL GURUNG FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
Fall 2019
To be a citizen of our world, to forge our own identity, to remain rooted and foster a community – what does this mean? These have been questions on my mind, especially amid a tumultuous political climate, a culture that often appropriates and misrepresents, a society where so manyare subjugated to the unseen.
In search for these answers, i look back at my roots—from my birthplace in Singapore to my home in Kathmandu, a beloved place I recently returned to for photo Kathmandu, a large scale photo exhibit supported by my foundation, Shikshya foundation Nepal.
Photo Kathmandu highlights new talent and celebrates the vibrancy of art and its ability to storytell, disrupt and provoke with conviction and optimism. During my trip, I found myself revisiting jhochhen street, known to some as “freak street,” the birthplace of the hippie movement, where westerners uprooted themselves to embark on a journey.
Redefining their very essence, they resisted with peace and enveloped one another with hope and love. This spirited place was and continues to be a nirvana for the explorative soul who seeks refuge from the confines of tradition and convention.
We travel back to the 1970s to trek on the path once known as the hippie trail. We depart kathmandu, voyaging through Delhi, Iahore, Peshawar, Kabul, Tehran, Beirut, before arriving back in the western hemisphere, passing by Rome, Paris and London.
We are nomads traveling through faraway lands, escaping society’s barriers while embarking on a transcendent trail. Along the way, we shed our skin, leaving a piece of ourselves behind. It is a cultural exchange of ideas and experiences as we search for a home that sees us, hears us, understands us and embraces us with freedom and empathy.
The confluence of these splendid cultures weaves together harmoniously. Speaking with colour and texture to forge unity and friendship, we revere ancient art and history with a fascination for the far east. Brocade patchwork hand loomed in varanasi and hand-painted metallic ombré palace motifs are collaged into our collective memory.
These visions are met by the glamour and exuberance of 1970s paris, as we recall the work of the greats – Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Lacroix, exemplified here through cascading chiffons, rive gauche silhouettes and layered organzas. We’re brought back to
reality, rooted by the pragmatism of modern american sportswear juxtaposed against traditional savile row techniques.
Utilitarian cargos are complemented with artisanal cashmeres hand knit in nepal, graphic houndstooth accented with quilting details, and flannel pinstripe lives alongside sacred fleur-de-lis print. With couture ideals, our tasaki atelier jewellery frees the spirit from traditional bonds and notions, allowing everyone ownership over their self-presentation and self preservation.
With new visual cues, we redefine how one is seen and where one belongs. We take an unabashedly hyper-feminine approach to celebrate diversity, joy and all of humanity. Through this collection, i present to you a joyous peek into our globetrotting suitcase that is the prabal gurung world – a multifaceted, colourful and optimistic place where integrity, purpose, levity and love are our most celebrated virtues.
Wed, February 13 2019 » Fashion Blog
3.1 PHILLIP LIM FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
A wardrobe for her…
Fall 2019 continues to evolve the dialogue with the 3.1 Phillip Lim global woman with underscored intent. A modern, essential wardrobe that continues to explore personal nuance and align contradictions: elevated utility, elegant sportswear, youthful tailoring. This is achieved by playing with silhouette and pushing the confines of expected proportion.
Volume is exaggerated – rounded cocoon coats in double-faced wool, oversized capes with cinched waistbands, and extra wide-legged pants with nipped-in waists and matching belted utility jackets in wool denim. The goal to expand her daily possibilities, while never removing the poetry. She is as ever cool, easy, chic but with renewed purpose – a commitment to sustainability our way.
The philosophy is simple – make less, mean more. Live with intention. Champion community. Acknowledge that we can’t change the world overnight, but we can take small, pragmatic, purposeful steps that ultimately add up. We can keep the human touch, the beauty and artistry of irreplaceable craft, in everything we do. Balance is key – recognizing that we will always have a footprint but offsetting it with small gestures that eventually amount to a grand shift.
-Phillip Lim
This season we celebrate community and have partnered with like-minded brands to realize our vision for a more considered, sustainable future. At 3.1 Phillip Lim, our belief is that sustainability is about balance not perfection. It starts small, with the knowledge that we can do the most good when we hold ourselves, and each other, personally accountable.
Above and beyond, that includes the company we keep. For Fall 2019, we are proud to continue our partnership with The Woolmark Company, the global authority on wool and experts in innovation, sustainability and technology in the Australian Merino industry. With Leigh Miller who finds inspiration in art and nature and created the exceptional jewelry for our show.
With Aveda, a pioneer in championing sustainable, environmentally friendly practices and cruelty-free hair and beauty products. And with @UnframeTheBeauty, a newly launched global beauty brand that works with traditional craftsmen from the Kumano and Nara regions of Japan to make each of their brushes, and is committed to using safe, sustainably-sourced ingredients that are never tested on animals.
Lastly, this season we are humbled to announce that we will go fur-free. Effective immediately, the brand will ban fur and exotic skins in RTW and accessories such as fox, mink, lynx, chinchilla, astrakhan/karakul lamb and exotic skins including python, alligator, crocodile and lizard. We will continue to use leathers and shearling that are understood to be a by-product of the meat trade.
Wed, February 13 2019 » Fashion Blog
JEREMY SCOTT FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
For his Fall/Winter 2019 collection, Jeremy Scott collaborates with the artist Aleksandra Mir who created hand-drawn blown up renderings of tabloid covers straight from the New York Post and New York Daily News. Scott believes that we are mired in the onslaught of sensational and earth-shattering headlines: we are witnesses, victims, and perpetrators of the unending news cycle.
Scott uses this stark and blatant imagery as a rebuttal to our collective obsession with salacious headlines, false scenarios and click bait drama that incite tensions and ultimately divide us – not only in the political sphere, but in pop culture as well. Scott transforms these striking headlines into clothing that mirrors the frenetic hyper overload of breaking news that inundates our daily life.
The Black and White palette further reinforces the graphic nature of the collection, and silhouettes are outlined and defined by the headlines. Soft and fluid vinyl, blazing headlines, is fashioned into trenches and full skirted dresses, superimposing words upon words and creating new meanings.
Fitted bustiers give way to multi layered featherweight tulle skirts – again transparency and layering playing a significant role in the ensemble. Distressed denim and leather are emblazoned with verbiage and Scott takes something as delicate and beautiful as Swarovski crystal mesh and masks this precious material with bold graphics.
He paints the seesawing economy of yesterday in leather, the catastrophes of today in chiffon, tomorrow’s scandals in sequins, silks and tulle, all the while maintaining an aggressive edge to express the wonder and horror of our times.
Wed, February 13 2019 » Fashion Blog
Thu, February 7 2019 » Fashion Blog
LOUIS VUITTON FALL WINTER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
The collection
Imagine a boy born in the 1950s, raised in the humble surroundings of Indiana. Imagine that boy fifty years on, evolved into the most recognisable and universal symbol of unity on the planet. There once was a boy, who saw the human nature we all take for granted with different eyes and transformed it into the most captivating ideas on Earth.
A boy whose prodigious talent catapulted him into unparalleled fame; whose boyhood, teen-age and adulthood unfolded before the eyes of the world. He was ever-present: a living, breathing, gradually evolving reference for the personal development experienced by every human being.
But this boy was larger than life. Through his mesmerising theatre, he brought together his audiences around the world in all their diversities, giving them a single beacon to which they could all relate. His art existed on a level accessible to all, drew on entities familiar to all, yet far exceeded the social impact of any other artist. Moving through the stages of life, the way we all do, he was compelled to constantly alter reality.
A footstep turned into gravity-defying dance, a sigh mutated into a throbbing beat, and every normal object around him was gilded in a new light. His only initial privilege was his talent: a superhuman ability to elevate everyday life and give its components new meaning. Through his ingenious lens, an ordinary wardrobe comprised of the staples familiar to us all became extraordinary; every jacket, glove, sock and hat fashioned into an instrument of awe.
From the swaddling garments of boyhood to the outgrown silhouettes of adolescence, the boy’s understanding of dress evolved on a public platform. Through his life, the boy established a wardrobe at once out-of-this-world and familiar to all. His life would become the only recorded study of a man’s sense of dress from boyhood through adulthood to play out on a globally observed stage. But this boy would become an example of multiplicity far beyond his own control.
Maturing in front of the world, his look grew remarkably differentwith age. By destiny, and his advancing sense of identity, he became a culturally indefinable phenomenon: a universally relatable marvel: Every person on Earth could mirror themselves in him. Every child and adult cheered for him. Lightyears ahead of his time, the boy inspired a cultural revolution that still reverberates today. That boy once walked among us. Michael Jackson was here.
The show
The Fall-Winter 2019 set, visualised in the image of the streets of New York City, features a live installation by graffiti artists JIM JOE, LEWY BTM and FUTURA. An original soundtrack, You Know What’s Good, is composed and performed live by DEVONTÉ HYNES aka BLOOD ORANGE along with MIKEY FREEDOM on vocals, HART on bass, and JASON ARCE on saxophone and flute.
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
DIOR FALL WINTER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
A sensibility of couture, a spirit of now. The Dior men’s winter 2019-2020 collection by artistic director Kim Jones draws on the attitudes and imprints of the house of Dior’s couture heritage – shapes, techniques, materials, ethos – then reinvents them anew. Alongside this continues Kim Jones’ examination of Christian Dior the man – namely, his background as a gallerist of the avant-garde of his time. It is mirrored today in a collaboration with the artist raymond pettibon. All become, in essence, acts of translation: from feminine to masculine, from art to fashion, from then to now. Examining the past, making it speak to the future.
The inspiration is all derived from Dior, from the house’s emblems and markers, and then evolved. Animalier, drapery, architectural tailoring, a soft color palette, de luxe haute couture materials. An unmistakable, often imitated but never equaled elegance. A parisian sentiment. The animalier comes to the fore as monsieur Dior’s beloved panthère – introduced in his first collection in 1947 – is joined by tiger and leopard patterns in knitwear and intarsia furs.
The notion of couture is expounded through tailoring, sometimes inlaid with panels of satin as if the lining is exposed. That idea is heightened in pieces that are entirely reversible – expressive of the idea that couture should be as perfect inside as out. A utilitarian bent to harnesses and vests reinforces the notion of couture as a craft. Alongside tailleur comes flou. The technique of moulage – the couture method of draping directly on the form – inspires gestures of fabric used to frame tailoring.
The asymmetry of the diagonally-wrapped tailleur oblique is further explored through coats with panels that wrap across buttons, disrupting the precision of their shape. Other jackets have panels of fabric that button inside, draping to the floor – theoblique, extrême. The preciousness of haute couture is reflected through fabrications – cashmere, silk satin, furs, that are combined with technologically advanced materials to give fabrics a high-gloss sheen.
Knitwear is made with a new technique, which resembles moiré; lace is cut into body-hugging sweaters. Nylon is used to mirror silk with its lustrous surface texture: beautiful yet lightweight and practical, it is representative of a modern idea of luxury. The color palette is archetypal Dior: palest blue, mauve bisque, a symphony of pearlized grays, midnight blue and black.reflecting Dior’s love of and fascination with the art world, Kim Jones collaborates with the artist raymond pettibon for this collection.
A curation of existing drawings are shown alongside debuts of entirely new works specially-created by pettibon, and evolved into prints, knits, jacquards, and hand-embroideries. A figure subconsciously influenced by the mona lisa; a pair of eyes staring into the future against an impressionistic sky. These references to classical art are joined by works inspired by Dior; a spray-painted version of the Dior animal print – punk panthère – which resembles a floral, and a reimagining of the house’s logotype, used in jewelry.
As Kim Jones reinterprets Dior, he invites others to do the same. Christian Dior’s personal obsessions and superstitious nature are the theme behind the jewelry by yoon ahn, featuring mementos and charms, worn like amulets and as charm bracelets. The Dior ‘cd’ emblem becomes the fastening on a safety pin. It simultaneously speaks of punk – of the now, and the contemporary art of raymond pettibon – and the world of haute couture.
Underscoring the crossing from the feminine to the masculine world, accessories continue to translate the Dior ‘saddle’ bag into a men’s wardrobe. Today, Kim Jones’ reinterpretation is executed in nylon or lush leopard-patterned mink as a new cross-body style; backpacks, also in nylon, feature Dior’s signature cannage quilting. The ‘saddle’ becomes a pocket on utility gloves elongated to opera length.
Other bag styles draw on classic Dior shapes, their scales altered and adjusted. These sit alongside the hyper-modern: a series of cases designed for the electronic essentials of life today include sleek cases in raymond pettibon-printed plexiglass, leather or Dior oblique canvas, designed to fit not one but two iphones – new necessities.
The shoe styles feature nylon gaiters, the leather intricately brogued or laser-etched with panther spots.the collection is presented as a series of tableaux vivants along a vast, 76-meter-long moving walkway, like a couture salon showing of the past but on an operatic scale.
In place of the monolithic statues of the previous two seasons, here the looks form the centerpiece, striking poses in sculptural attitudes that, like classical artworks, throw shade.shown in the heart of the french capital, this Dior men’s collection – like the house of Dior, like the art of haute couture itself – is fundamentally, quintessentially parisian.
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
