Mon, February 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
Mon, February 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
Mon, February 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
ROLAND MOURET FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – LONDON FASHION WEEK
“In the last 20 years we all have become prisoners of sizing and gender, and I see this collection as a way to free ourselves, by exploring diversity and liberating our style. I really want to challenge the way we wear clothes and reduce the way we insatiably consume. To use clothes in a more responsible way and limit the single-use pieces in our wardrobes.
I think back to when I was 18 years old and exploring my identity: I would find clothes in flea markets that were often too big, but I’d make them work. I learnt how to define myself through styling the pieces I loved. You see a jacket. It’s not your gender and it’s not your size. But you like it, so who is to say that you shouldn’t wear it?
‘Don’t Let Me Be Misunderstood’, the clothes aren’t oversized – they’re just bigger. And just to clarify I’m not introducing a new category- I’m using this opportunity to share my approach to redefining an identity. It’s fun. It’s a moment of expression.” – Roland Mouret
Roland Mouret offers a highly personal and unique experience for the Autumn Winter 2019 collection, inspired by Lee Miller.
Lee Miller, whose journey from model, to fashion photographer and ultimately World War II reportage photographer, is an icon of the 20th century. She refused to be defined by gender, age or beauty. Mouret has drawn inspiration from her resilience and enthusiasm for her creative career and from her indomitable spirit during a period of trauma, recession and uncertainty.
Mon, February 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sun, February 17 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sun, February 17 2019 » Fashion Blog
ROKSANDA FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – LONDON FASHION WEEK
For Autumn Winter 2019, Roksanda commissions a bespoke installation to cement her long term relationship with art collective Troika. An alternate reality for the their sculpture ‘Borrowed Light’, both Troika’s innovative space and Roksanda’s clothes appear to address obvious subject matter; colour, volume, texture, movement. However, each explores a deeper narrative, one centred around the concept of perception and duality, indivisible entities and experiences.
Inspiration infiltrates too from architecture, this time from Paul Rudolph’s brutalist masses of textured concrete and car park tower trellis’. With this exploration of tension and perception Roksanda tells her story yet again through the beauty of opposites; strength and softness, beauty and shelter, for an intricate yet booming recalibration of femininity.
This season, tailoring is a tactile combination of wool and cashmere blends, rich ochre quilting and matlassé cut into long and languid coats, slashed strictly at the sides to reveal saturated linings. Relaxed melange jersey appears in luxurious day dressing, including draped buttonless jackets closed simply with fine leather belts that wrap twice around the waist.
Utalitarian outerwear is spliced and colour blocked, combining wools, compact taffeta and cotton, partially quilted, while contrasting zips and metal snaps reveal hidden layers. Quilting plays an important part in the collections blueprints; padded scarves are colour blocked and printed, creating a voluminous yet softer accent to the neat tailored jackets which sit layered beneath.
Dramatic, feminine yet powerful dress silhouettes in richly coloured taffetta’s; heliotrope, tobacco and ochre are used to play on the perception of volume and sculpture. At the other end of Roksanda’s infinite spectrum, pleated silk bias cuts are rendered closer to the body, detailed with loose and softly tied satin bows. Carefully crafted details include tucked and frilled hems, velvet bows and Pierrot collars.
Roksanda’s graphic interpretations of hard concrete structures are either layered with soft projections of her own delicate dancer, or scaled up to create a bold and confident counterpart. Optic white taffeta enhances crisp primary colours is layered with an ultra-light air organza layer to create a soft fluidity. A luxurious oyster duchess base is flip reversed to reveal a hidden yet highly saturated version, while transparent yarns are woven to reflect light and give the perception of pure liquidity. Just as Troika’s colourful strips present themselves on photographic film, Roksanda’s overlap technique mimics a lense out-of-focus, reality blurred, but revealing a life in full yet transparent technicolor.
Heavy as a building block, light as a feather. Embroidery features micro cut beads and organza shapes, crafted around feather print motifs, all pale dyed and organically placed. Dramatic and dreamy, hand dyed ostrich feathers are gathered, trapped in mounds on shoulders, collars and cuffs. They disperse with movement across their garments, blown apart by kinetic air onto earrings and jewellery. Elsewhere, industrial metal tubes are bent into miniature sculptures, hand finished with enamel paint to create additional building blocks; bracelets and necklaces.
Modernist details and craftsmanship continue in Roksanda’s bag range as the new season introduces the ‘Flat bag’ in Peony, Desert Sand, Tobacco, Porcelain and Navy. Roksanda’s cubist ‘box bag’ appears too in Navy, Mikado and Heliotrope.
Shoes in collaboration with Malone Souliers are inspired by a 70’s aesthetic; rubberised leather boots with soft satin legs in cinnamon, tobacco and oyster. Loafers with hand stitched seam details appear in nappa and suede, while bright primary blue, black and navy satin evening slippers are adorned with delicate bows.
Colours
Heliotrope, Porcelain, Mikado, Cloud, Lemonade, Cipria, Vermillion, Lime, Pear, Sage, Spearmint, Spruce, Aegean, Tobacco, Orchid, Cinnamon, Rosewood, Ebony, Midnight, Oyster, Azalea, Tumeric
Fabrics
Mattelassé Coating, Wool Alpaca Coating, Technical Duchess, Zibeline Wool Coating, Wool Mouline Jersey, Wool Cashmere Coating, Silk Satins, Silk Twill Organzas, Taffeta.
Sat, February 16 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 16 2019 » Fashion Blog
BURBERRY FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – LONDON FASHION WEEK
‘TEMPEST’
‘I have been thinking a lot about England as a country of contrasts, from the structured to the rebellious and free, and I wanted to celebrate how these elements coexist. My first season for Burberry was about starting to develop my alphabet for the house, it was about identifying new letters and new codes. And now, I’m starting to put these letters together to begin writing my book here, to form the first chapter for a new era at Burberry.’
Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer
THE COLLECTION
Called ‘Tempest’, Riccardo Tisci’s Autumn/Winter 2019 collection for Burberry takes inspiration from the contrasts in British culture and weather, from the structured to the rebellious and free, and further develops the codes and cues first set out in his debut collection for the fashion house last year. The collection continues to evolve around the four characters that are becoming integral to this house – the girl, the boy, the lady and the gentleman. Presented in four parts, the collection was revealed at a new show venue in-between two contrasting bespoke show environments within the Tate Modern Tanks at 5PM on 17 February.
GIRL AND BOY
For women: Shearling and faux fur coats, off-the-shoulder corset tops, double-waist tailored trousers and lace-detail slip dresses styled with Chelsea boots and sneakers with rubber oversoles. For men: A paneled trench, a puffer duffle, a parka in shearling and quilts. Vintage check in bold patchworks with animal print accents and tape details. Track pants refreshed in plonge leather. Sneakers with neoprene socks.
LADY AND GENTLEMAN
For women: Deconstructed trenches, embellished car coats, draped wool cashmere ponchos. Sharp tailoring, cinched dresses, pleated skirts and printed shirts. Pumps, boots and kitten heels, with fringing and hand-applied crystals. For men: Striped wool duffle coats, quilted gilets over tailored outerwear. English-fit suits, pleated trousers, reconstructed boat-neck knitwear and silk-jersey shirts. Rubber-cap-toe brogues and Chelsea boots.
EVENINGWEAR
A series of delicately draped evening dresses, in black, white and beige.
ACCESSORIES
Key shapes introduced by Riccardo for his debut evolve for Autumn/Winter 2019. The TB Bag returns in new iterations. The Society is updated in extra-large and portrait styles for men. Introducing Title, our new refined silhouette defined with a triple-stud detail.
KEY COLOURS
Shades of beige punctuated with green, red, pale blue, orange, brown and black. Tonal layers feature an injection of colour.
KEY PRINTS
Vintage check, stripes and the Thomas Burberry Monogram are revisited this season. Nautical references include seascapes, oysters and ropework details.
Sat, February 16 2019 » Fashion Blog
RALPH LAUREN SPRING 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
Ralph Lauren debuts the Spring 2019 Collection and transforms the Madison Avenue flagship store into Ralph’s Café, an immersive dining experience.
“To bring the fresh spirit and modern glamour of my Spring 2019 Women’s Collection to life I decided to share it in the charming environment of my new Ralph’s Café on Madison Avenue. I wanted to create an intimate experience to share my vision in a more personal way.” said Ralph Lauren.
The first floor of the store has been reimagined as Ralph’s Café – a unique dining experience that will serve breakfast as guests enjoy an intimate presentation of the new season.
The Spring 2019 Collection is about purity of design in unexpected silhouettes defined by the bold contrast of black, white, and gold. Iconic shapes are met with new proportions, including exaggerated, wide-leg trousers juxtaposed with sharp tailoring and fluid silk shapes.
Fri, February 15 2019 » Fashion Blog
