Snow White or Evil Queen? Why chose when you can be both suggests Creative Director James Long corrupting the purity of full white looks with cherry blossom punks in Barbara Cartland pink and garments adorned with gems quite possibly from Disney’s mines.
Basket weave jacquards in Royal blue distort garden flowers and logos in texture and shine on knitted cycling shorts and midi-pencils. A stripe shirt dips into the same graphic while a long dress, thigh split with balloon sleeves is tone on tone. An oversized bondage strapped men’s coat with Dopey on the reverse raises smiles even when you are in Off-to-Work-We- Go mode.
White and cream softness in chiffon and brushed fluff Snow White knitwear are made tough with military inspired garter over-skirts and Artic white denim. Clear sunglasses and roomy padded coats for our pure as snow heroine are available for both men and women.
But bite the apple and embrace your dark side. A new take on a pair from the archive ICEBERG bondage trousers with matching jackets cover punkish brushed sweaters and studded crystal strips (based on the guitar strap of PJ Harvey) light up luxurious tricadi tailoring. White shirts have louche rock star studded collars.
The glitzy neon glow of gems and crystals give a Douglas Leigh LED cityscape over black bodysuits, full length dresses and trousers. The evil Queen, hand drawn and knitted sneers at her reflection in the Linda Farrow for ICEBERG Magic Mirror sunglasses.
High shine plasticised chiffon become Siouxsie tight trousers, boots and the shoulders of jackets where knit has been fused with fabric in a process called agugliatura or needling.
Chaotic yet soft styling with pink oversized cardigan dresses and diaphanous fabrics are layered over sporty bodysuits and shorts. While in a puce DB jacket with matching trousers and chiffon shirt you don’t have to wait for your fairy tale ending: you’ve become your very own Prince.
Special guest on the runway the first ICEBERG x Linda Farrow eyewear collection. The collaboration is a classic sporty silhouette that has been playfully printed with ICEBERG’s strong primary colour stripes and logo. Featuring reflective lenses, black rubberised details and a matt white finish paired with a white knit sports strap.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, ICEBERG, ICEBERG FW 2019-20
Sun, February 24 2019 » Fashion Blog
Bottega Veneta© Copyright 2019
Bottega Veneta’s Fall 2019 collection is a celebration of freedom, self-expression and sensuality. Creative Director Daniel Lee’s first runway show for the house is an exercise in elevated detail, noble materials and energetic silhouette.
While the quiet craft central to Bottega Veneta’s identity is still present, Fall 2019 brings a sharp injection of modernity to traditional technique, turning up the volume. Combining the human hand with technology and process, the result is simultaneously classic and contemporary.
A viewpoint on the house’s Italian origins seen through today’s global lens offers another visible tension – the conspicuous and the refined, high and low, hedonism and intellect. The season’s palette is also a reflection on this discussion, chemical hues and shimmering embellishment meet natural tones and everyday colour.
Presenting a new vocabulary for Bottega Veneta, leather and the house’s Intrecciato weave is reinterpreted and evolved. Polished dresses and layered knitwear pair with armour-like outerwear, sharp tailoring and confident accessories.
Ultimately, the aim of this season’s collection is a simple one, to evoke emotion – pleasure and joy, desire and beauty.
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Tags: BOTTEGA VENETA, BOTTEGA VENETA FW 2019-20, FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20
Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
Fendi© Copyright 2019
The FENDI Women’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 Collection is the final Collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld, representing a lifetime of dedication and creation from 1965 until today. In his perpetual search for beauty and innovation, Karl’s commitment to his craft never waned. This Collection embodies that devotion, from the season’s defining sketches to his ultimate FENDI gesture: the romantic trace of a silk foulard. Reflected in a multitude of ideas, each expression is innately and forever his own.
Eternally forward-looking, the silhouette is triumphant in its depth and majestic in its simplicity. Trompe l’oeil – an enduring signature – defines fabrications with an opulent hand, as architectural planes are shot through with an irresistible lightness. Neutral tones lift through pale ivory tulle, warm cognac patent and terracotta calfskin to sublime shades of daffodil, sea green, tangerine and azure. Like petals or plumes, wallpaper prints become textures on cloque, organza and satin.
Drawn from a pagoda shoulder, zipped and double-breasted tailoring is nipped at the waist and threaded with floating bow belts. In cotton poplin and fine leather, pointed shirt collars button high in Karl’s inimitable style. Worn with full pleated trousers, jacket pockets and asymmetric lapels are outlined in a slick shadow play.
Diamond shapes abound in the shifting lines of transparency, pleating and latticework transposed, one over the other, as wrap knife-pleated skirts, monogram tulle bodysuits and laser cut leather outerwear. Designed in 1981, Karl’s curling ‘Karligraphy’ FF logo monogram appears on cabochon buttons and intarsia fur, as high-collared shift dresses whisper softly in diaphanous silk and honeycomb lace.
The FENDI Women’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 Accessories Collection abounds with newness, as the Baguette is transformed in embossed pillow patent, topstitched vegetal leather and a multi-strap utility harness. A spacious metal frame tote in shiny calf or Pequin stripe shearling folds into a clutch, as the Peekaboo echoes the season’s perforated techniques. Square-heeled flats or pointed high-heel boots in shiny neoprene and scrolling knitted neoprene continue the season’s shadow motif with a contrast sole and zipper.
“The bond between Karl Lagerfeld and FENDI is fashion’s longest love story, one that will continue to touch our lives for years to come. I am profoundly saddened by his passing and deeply touched by his constant care and perseverance until the very end. When we called just a few days before the show, his only thoughts were on the richness and beauty of the Collection. It’s a true testament to his character. He shall be so missed.” – Silvia Venturini Fendi
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, FENDI, FENDI FW 2019-20
Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
Max Mara© Copyright 2019
THE POLITICS OF GLAMOUR
‘I like glamour. Not afraid of it.’ So declared the iconic supermodel and many times face of Max Mara, Linda Evangelista. She wasn’t, but many were. Sometimes, in the debate about fashion and feminism, glamour took a beating. Right now, everyone’s talking about fashion that empowers women, but how exactly does that work?
Max Mara says it’s all about clothes that allow you to shine. Glamour is the magic ingredient that puts the power into power dressing. More than just ’fashion’, glamour offers an armoury of personae, tricks and tools. Thinkers like Camille Paglia rejoice in that. ‘It’s men who suffer from conventions of dress,’ she says.
Max Mara’s boss lady works that advantage to the full; she is sharper, smarter and sassier than ever. What does Max Mara glamour translate into? A silhouette that’s strong at the shoulder; wider, boxier and leggier. Skirts that look as though they were cut from mens’ pants –above the knee, or ankle grazing- to wear with thigh high boots and svelte polo sweaters.
Plush alpaca, camel and cashmere artfully bound in leather. A new luxe take on puffas –with camel’s hair wadding. In trademark camel, black, white, and tan, heritage prints discovered in the archive. A bold mix of tweed, jaunty checks, proudly faux croc and zebra. And for the working woman, workwear, literally; impeccably tailored utility vests, jackets and cargo skirts with multiple zips and pockets.
The moodboard recalls that early nineties moment when the supermodels strutted the Max Mara runway in threes and fours. Happy and heroic, in tech- nicolour total looks; the kind of bright optimism that we need a bit of now. A Teddy in audacious cyan, cerulean or corn yellow? Why not? It will light up your winter, this year and many more to come. And where better to show than Università Bocconi? A world class institution whose graduates are movers and shakers –nearly half are women, and the number is rising.
‘Dressing like a woman means wearing anything a woman deems appropriate and necessary for getting the job done.’ says Roxane Gay. Max Mara goes one step further; here’s the suit that makes you look forward to getting up and dressed in the morning, here’s the dress that picks you up even when you don’t really want to go to that party, and here’s the treasured coat that you wear to that meeting at which you absolutely have to triumph.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, MAX MARA, MAX MARA FW 2019-20
Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
N°21© Copyright 2019
SUSPENSE
Sexiness, way beyond sensual because it’s an aware kind of sexy. Desired, strived after, expressed. Noir, for it operates in the ambiguity, the secret disclosure of a pervading tone of danger. A life unfolding as if in a thriller where the heroines of the story create suspense. The N21 fall/winter 2019 women’s collection embraces unexpected cuts, well-defined slits, the sharpest of lines, fashioning dresses for strong, mysterious women, a bit ambiguous. Hollywood glam femme fatales who give the wink to Italian style bad girls.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the creative director. «All comes from an impression I got watching Brian De Palma’s 1980 film Dressed to Kill again. I was particularly struck by the atmosphere the director created both with his voluptuous use of the movie camera and with the passionate, sensual music of Pino Donaggio, mounting a true symphony of terror on the screen.
I wanted to recreate a similar mood, sending down the catwalk a strong woman who clearly craves to come on sexy and who, with equal awareness, exalts her own ambiguity through clothes that reveal her real intentions. No more pretence. I produced a “film noir” where the dress is an authentic clue to the mystery to divulge. I designed transformational clothes, for like the women who wear them. They’re ambiguous.»
The plot of the collection. Everything opens halfway: overcoats, dresses, trench coats, cardigans. Regularly free of any fastening in front, they open and close in back thanks to zippers. Through actual razor cuts effecting an almost Fauvist brutalism, the dress in duchesse, chiffon or faille unveils underneath duchesse top and culottes; or, in alternative, an exquisitely sensual slip-dress consisting of top and latex tube skirt in a matching color. And while the trench coats preserve the look and hue of the classic Mackintosh, they undergo a transformation, either because they reveal a wholly reversible part in gold on the inside or because they have underneath another trench cut in half. As for other dresses, they have random embroidery imperfectly placed and stitched. Not at all in contradiction with the mannish latex shirts, the faux-fur wool coats (featuring an exclusive textile process) and the dyed red long-hair shearlings. Lastly, froissé sequins and lace give definition to dresses with the rumpled allure of a nocturnal adventurer who wants to come out of the darkness; accompanied simply by a melton overcoat that opens entirely in back. «It’s the plot of a story about women with striking personalities, not babes but thinking individuals able to call the shots, lead the way, also through the clothes they wear,» Dell’Acqua says.
Accessories. They are tools of a sudden, mysterious type of seduction. The Lolita bag, in leather, melton or velvet, has a chain linking it to a smaller bag held on a finger with a ring. The same chain may also come off and become a bracelet. Shoes include crystal-studded high heel mules in blush pink or in black, as well as a pump in ottoman complete with stripe and black jet embroidery.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, N°21, N°21 FW 2019-20
Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Moschino Fall Winter 2019 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 21st February 2019 at 8.30 PM CET. Stay Tuned…!!!
#Moschino #moschinofashionshow
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, LIVE STREAMING, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2019-20
Thu, February 21 2019 » Fashion Blog
Watch the N°21 Fall Winter 2019-20 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 20th February 2019 at 6.00 PM CET. Stay Tuned…!!! #N21 #numeroventuno
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, LIVE STREAMING, N°21, N°21 FW 2019-20
Wed, February 20 2019 » Fashion Blog
“UNCLASSICAL”
A new view on elegance. For Autumn/Winter 2019, PORTS 1961 Creative Director Nataša Čagalj and her team examine archetypes of bourgeoise dressing, twisting the classic, the known, to become different.
Pared back and precise, the collection is built around cut. Gestures of draped cloth, inspired by foulards and handkerchief swatches, animate silhouettes with flying panels and scarf-effects. Layering evokes an idea of protection, of revelation in the unwrapping. The interiors of bonded fabrics in generously-cut outerwear match the clothes worn underneath, a take on a conservative twinset.
Evoking scenarios of bourgeoisie life, a baroque wallpaper pattern becomes a placement print on cottons and wools, interrupting the surfaces. Sometimes a skirt is literally twisted, to show its other side.
There is play with the age-old building-blocks of a wardrobe: coats, suits, dresses – classics. The clothes are layered up and stripped away, a lady coming undone. The signature PORTS 1961 white shirt is dissected, deconstructed – the collar becomes a decorative device, skin exposed. Knitted dresses are dissected into composite parts, allowing slashes of skin to be revealed. Woollen work shirts are carved out in back.
There is a touch of trompe l’oeil toying – again, a twist on the expected. Jackets appear with double- front, as if layered over other pieces; trousers worn underneath dresses are actually boots, with attached sleeves of cloth; jewellery features locks of hair, the earrings appearing to add length to the wearer’s own. And a sequence of furs are actually created from weightless looped yarn knits.
Fabrics are pure, assured: cashmeres and camelhair, wools coated and bonded, houndstooth and prince-of-wales tailoring, cottons. They are rendered in a hyper-classic palette of grey, camel, black and white, weighted with off-kilter touches of carmine, satsuma and eggshell. Animal patterns – reworked zebras, leopard – are recreated in jacquards and knit. For evening, stretch and double face duchesse satins in striking black and white evoke masculine tuxedo dressing, but feminised.
The whole is an emotional journey – pulling apart, putting back together. Twisting, turning, voyaging. A layered exploration, each outfit offering a fresh port of call.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, PORTS 1961, PORTS 1961 FW 2019-20
Mon, February 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
