INSPIRATIONS
“Rose is a Rose is a Rose is a Rose” Gertrude Stein from her poem ‘Sacred Emily’ 1913. A rose as a person or an emblem of beauty, a power in delicacy. Snapshots of garden flowers in the Dries van Noten garden in October 2018 – their imperfections and blemishes stand uncorrected, their shadows cast on a hand-held background evident.
From German Expressionism to the sublimation of the mundane in the study of human attitude and gesture in the work of Pina Bausch. Prints are frank, avoiding whimsy, fancy and romance. Pure Lines, range from the manly and austere, feminine and couture, day to evening to and the swaddling to structured.
FORM
Evoking 1940′s and 50′s couture, men’s tailoring. Amplified forms, details and lines contrast with the precision of tailoring. All from the freer forms of voluminous quilting to precise and considered garment structures.
COLOURS
A spray of greys, graphite, slate, charcoal, metals, burnished to gleaming, pewter, petrol. Hues of distilled pastels, rose, citrus, powdery mauve, fawn, eau-de-nil, duck eg blue, neon orange, gold, oxblood, imperial yellow.
FABRICS
From diaphanous and veiling to structured and classic. Chiffon, pinstripes, felts, matt to shimmering, faux fur.
PRINT
Photographs of flowers in Dries’ personal garden, October 2018, their imperfections and blemishes stand uncorrected, their shadows cast on a hand held background visible … 50 varieties of Rose, Salvia, 3 varieties of Delphinium, Acer Palmatum, Kniphofia Rooperi, 3 Varieties of Dahlia.
ACCESSORIES
High boots, Lucite Heels, flower photographs, neon faux fur stoles, over size bags.’Big-eye’ sunglasses.
COLLABORATION ON STOCKINGS
Stockings developed with Fogal for this collection exclusive to Dries van Noten in shades of cassis, stone, wild berry and light blue.
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Tags: DRIES VAN NOTEN, DRIES VAN NOTEN FW 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20
Mon, March 4 2019 » Fashion Blog
Swirling with otherworldly promise, the Fall Winter 2019 collection by Casey Cadwallader for Mugler vibrates with a savage alchemy – implanting magnificent architectures with a primal and aerodynamic elegance. In a call-and-repeat of decadent pattern and incisive structure, the silhouette pulses with complex densities and controlled volume. In acid and earth tones, mercurial graphic studies read animal, vegetal, and mineral.
Warping through a marbled stratum of natural stimuli, mixed media textiles soften the innate sharpness of turbo-charged tailoring in a macro-dose of tapestry, amoebic florals, and stained-glass leather. From chaotic patchwork to blurred print, silk georgettes and cloque wool jacquards create ruched incrustations in curving ‘trap’ dresses, as panelled columns cascade with fringed volants.
Peplum coats and zipped dolman blousons evolve hourglass shapes and bonded finishes, their flare echoed by smocked taffeta and compression corsetry built into flounced jersey dresses. Worn over snap-stud cargos and bootcut trousers, second-skin separates are embroidered in splashes of Mako beading or embossed with contoured stripes. The season’s organic energy is reflected in caged resin jewellery and the sleek construction of spoked spiral pumps or patent wedge cuissards.
“On the occasion of my second-ever Mugler show, I’d like to take the opportunity to congratulate Manfred Thierry Mugler on the opening of the retrospective exhibition this week at Musée des Beaux Arts in Montreal. Celebrating the past and present of Mugler as a duality of nostalgia and progress is truly important to me, and this exhibition pays to testament to Mugler as a beacon of culture, diversity, and innovation.”
— Casey Cadwallader, creative director of Mugler
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, MUGLER, MUGLER FW 2019-20
Mon, March 4 2019 » Fashion Blog
LANVIN “MYSTIC PILGRIMS”
The 13th century Musée de Cluny plays host to the first Women’s and Men’s collection designed by Bruno Sialelli for the house of Lanvin, sublimating the illustrious heritage of the Parisian maison in the midst of its own renaissance. As the first true purveyor of lifestyle, Lanvin encompasses a prismatic vision of fashion. Contemplating the life and times of our founder Jeanne Lanvin, a vital optimism permeates this respectful evolution – acknowledging the maison as a florilegium of creative energy.
Embodying a folkloric spirit, the Fall Winter 2019 collection roams from the Rue Saint-Honoré to Brest and far beyond, reminiscing upon cinematic and literary personas through history. Reviving Lanvin’s playful narrative in a symphony of romantic archetypes, Sialelli draws upon a multitude of moods: from nautical to bucolic, regal to childlike, the collection personifies lyrical conversations in cloth.
Pre-Raphaelite colours depart from Lanvin ‘quattrocento’ blue into powdery shades of avocado, absinthe, banana and bergamot warmed by mahogany, navy, tomato and a blaze of ultraviolet. Inciting pure comfort and a suite of leisurely pursuits, classic shapes are spliced with sensual fabrications, as Norwegian blankets, exotic Fair Isles, and giant clan tartans swaddle inherently French garments.
‘Whole garment’ knits create sinuous volumes shaped in cashmere and lurex, whilst the vareuse from Brittany, the heart-collar caban, zipped blousons and riding coats are rendered in cashmere, gabardine, intarsia shearling or wool gazar. Passing from myths to modern fairy-tales, graphics flit from Paul Iribe’s logo La femme et l’enfant (1924) on stamped muslin to mosaic monogram pyjama silks and delicate marguerite micro-florals.
Evoking the whimsy of Cécile and Jean de Brunhoff’s Babar the Elephant books, illustrated scenes float over crewneck twinsets and foulard riding boots, whilst tufted hares and foxes frolic across transparent tulle. Sensuous and in perfect symmetry, shaped necks and contoured sleeves impart blouses or dresses with a medieval line, as the scrolling imprint of illuminated manuscripts is writ large across
silk twill.
Faded Merovingian splendour is woven throughout, from gilded leather amulets and dipped thimble rings to St. George’s dragon resplendent on embroidered velvet. Voluminous kaftan gowns trail with linings inside and out, layered with bands of lace, pleated satin, and portrait print georgette.
Lanvin’s muse is embellished with abandon, adorned from head to toe with heraldic charm jewellery and porcelain chokers, fruit minaudières and salome wedges in Viennese metalwork. Grounding the season’s mystic vision, satchels, flat totes and asymmetric bucket bags are crafted in supple suede, canvas and calfskin to match fringed tennis shoes, studded clogs and moulded moccasin boots.
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, Lanvin, LANVIN FW 2019-20
Fri, March 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
We started without even knowing where we were going. Pierre Soulages said “It is what I do that teaches me what I am looking for”. This is the résumé of our creative process.
Rap, Street, Radio, Social networks, TV, our inspiration comes from what is happening around us: All of this inspires for next season a silhouette mixing streetwear and Couture techniques with a futuristic eye. We are only focused on the future.
Colors of the collection: Paris on a dark and stormy night. Materials: Poor materials, cotton stitched, wool, nylon, corduroy, rope, K-way. Silhouettes: Daily clothes whose volume has been reworked. Some subtle touches of feminity.
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Tags: AFTERHOMEWORK, AFTERHOMEWORK FW 2019.20, FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20
Fri, March 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
The sharp and couture-refined tailoring gives Anthony Vaccarello’s silhouettes a distinct and graphic elegance. Sculptural lines, inspired by the eighties, recall the sophisticated and liberated spirit of Betty Catroux, Bianca Jagger and Catherine Deneuve, iconic muses of the house.
Following the strict geometry, the Opium myth of red and gold embroideries turns into new dynamic shapes in precious materials.
For the finale, in the mirrored kaleidoscopic show set, a black light unveils the contemporary, effortless aspect of Saint Laurent’s soul.
“Everything starts from the shoulder construction. The graphic sculptural tailoring gives a sharp sophistication to the liberated impulse of desire” Anthony Vaccarello
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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, SAINT LAURENT, SAINT LAURENT FW 2019-20
Fri, March 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
Dior© Copyright 2019
Each new collection is an alchemy born of the confrontation between images, bodies, silhouettes and language. For Maria Grazia Chiuri, this creative mechanism is no longer about breaking with the past; rather, it’s a gateway to rediscovering and celebrating the richness of House codes.
For this ready-to-wear collection, the Artistic/Creative Director turned her attention to Teddy Girls, the female counterpoint to Teddy Boys – one of the first British subcultures – as a way of revisiting the 1950s, a post-war period marked by Christian Dior’s New Look that Maria Grazia Chiuri has seldom explored before. The queens of a ravaged landscape, Teddy Girls were impertinent characters with wild quiffs who wore Edwardian-style men’s jackets with velvet scarves, ample skirts, jeans and black leather jackets.
These references offer a new perspective on the 1950s, which Maria Grazia Chiuri chose to associate with the character of Princess Margaret. Ever the rebel, the young princess in 1951 elected to wear a dress by Dior – rather than one by a British dressmaker – for her official 21st birthday portrait photographed by Cecil Beaton. Fascinated by the mix of classicism and subversion, elegance and rebellion inherent in English culture, Christian Dior drew from it many sources of inspiration, as illustrated by the exhibition Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams, now at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. One by one, Maria Grazia Chiuri reclaims Dior codes, drawing in turn from its lexicon to create and reinvent the designs of tomorrow.
Thus, the Bar suit is revisited along a more masculine line, through cut, fabric and a velvet collar. It converses with gathered skirts made suppler through the use of technical fabrics that are also worked into dresses inspired by Christian Dior’s nipped-waist silhouettes. A conceptual and stylistic reinterpretation of the Fifties infused with the spirit of “sportswear”, mixed with the House’s signature elegance.
The first in a series of historically referenced themes, the black leather jacket by Yves Saint Laurent for Dior – an homage to the underground culture of the 1950s and 1960s, and particularly to the French “blousons noirs” – is here revisited by Maria Grazia Chiuri.Through the modernity of its materials and techniques, the iconic silhouette of the Miss Dior dress – which Christian Dior designed for the Spring-Summer 1949 haute couture collection – expresses the mix of strength and grace the Artistic Director favors. This inspiration also informs evening dresses composed of bodysuits and skirts that may be embroidered with transparent paillettes or embellished with flowers in relief. Low-heeled shoes are tapered and cut low in front. A new palm tree version of Toile de Jouy recalls the work of the artist Mario Schifano, and appears on a series of shirts or combines with checks and gingham, in black and red or black and white.
“Subcultures” confirm – through the style sense they appropriate – that the simple fact of choosing one’s clothes becomes a political semaphore. Silkscreened t-shirts pay homage to the literary works of Robin Morgan, the American feminist poet, with elements from Sisterhood is Powerful (1970), Sisterhood is Global (1984) and Sisterhood is Forever (2003), which celebrate the concept of sorority.The show’s scenography relies on ABCs – with each letter representing a different woman – created by the Italian artist Tomaso Binga, a woman who chose a masculine pseudonym as a way of parodying the privileges reserved to men alone. In so doing, the pieces in the collection reconnect with an idea of femininity that transcends gender and anatomy, and further the exploration of identity that Maria Grazia Chiuri champions in her reinterpretation of Dior’s history.
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Tags: DIOR, DIOR FW 2019-20, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20
Thu, February 28 2019 » Fashion Blog
Marine Serre© Copyright 2019
Time warp yourself into the future. Apocalypse has struck. Ecological crises and climate wars are destroying the last remains of civilization as we know it.
However, small numbers of survivors are finding refuge in shelters and caves deep underground. Tiny branches of rather peculiar people are birthing communities of an entirely new kind.
Here something is brewing, fermenting, yeasting, radiating.
They are morphing and transforming a weird new style. A new pluriversal mode, equipping them for embattling a hostile old world, while defending their delicate own.
They mobilize the shamanic animalism from forgotten tribes, strangely but effectively combining them with Apollo space-suits and action-hero tailored coats. Shiny puffed jackets, fluorescent yellow uniforms, ponchos made of bedcovers and hanging hybrid robes…
Their fragile yet radical street-style goes mad, with balaclavas, psychedelic velvet, and dresses from garbage – jewellery embellished from driftwood and shells next to valuables from the trash-heaps of history: microchips, glistering metals and old coins.
Then, inevitably, a dangerous other side, a wild inner nature, so long repressed, returns embodied on the scene.
What the old world had carefully cut off and ignored comes back transformed, and with a deadly vengeance – allied with today’s swarms of jellyfish, bush fires, or hyper resistant superbugs. In an explosion of green, pink and grey silver, the artificial dividing line between nature and culture collapses, and the arrival of a new being is foretold.
Welcome to MARINE SERRE’s hallucinaut FW19 collection. The future has begun.
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Tags: FALL WINTER 2019 WOMENS COLLECTION, MARINE SERRE, MARINE SERRE FW 2019-20
Thu, February 28 2019 » Fashion Blog
Wed, February 27 2019 » Fashion Blog
GAME SHOW
“Fashion, come on down!” This season Jeremy Scott invites you to the Moschino Game Show. Win big! With so much fun, no one leaves empty-handed, it’s an unabashedly joyful exercise in super-camp fun. Yes, you could win a trip to Aspen. Maybe a brass bedroom set. How about a new washer-dryer? Or even the grand prize… a brand new car! As your host for this evening says:
“It’s a bold, technicolor escape from reality that you look forward to at the end of the day. There’s a reason that game shows are beloved by millions of people around the globe, with as much variety as there are people. ”Survey says… Jeremy, you are correct! Our lovely models will be teasing some highly desirable fashion prizes tonight. So let’s take a look at what you could pre-order!
The daily grind is just a state of mind…. Our decadently cut dresses, embellished and jewel-adorned gowns, overlay prints of high impact household product packaging. From cleaning materials to breakfast cereals – with artisan-applied panels and stripes of sequin and crystal – are designed to make you feel like you’ve won life’s jackpot. For dress-down days, there are variations in denim.
The soignee shapes carry over into a suite of high-impact gowns – in fabrications running from gold and embroidered silk organza to starburst sequin – fit for high-rollers of every persuasion. This is a collection of grand dreams, spectacular fantasies, bright lights and extravagant prizes; the perfect fit for this seasons Met moment.
Here on the Moschino Game Show, everyone goes home a winner. Then there are the fabulously cut and draped silk jersey dresses in bold color that come heaped with jeweled necklaces and jeweled cut-out panels – finery fit for daytime TV or a night extravaganza. Slot machine prints, gold dollar sign denim and leather and coin print dresses are all on the money – big bucks, no whammies.
Gold and platinum biker jackets come fringed with precision-cut chandelier crystals. You could walk away with a floor-length (faux) fur, complete with (faux) fox face – deal or no deal? And for an extra bit of luck we’ve recruited the Good Luck Trolls for a series of dresses and (faux) furs decorated with game board panels. So, will you win big? Wear Moschino, and you already have.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2019-20, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2019-20
Wed, February 27 2019 » Fashion Blog
Wed, February 27 2019 » Fashion Blog
