Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog
Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog
Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog
ROCHAS HOMME SPRING SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
With this collection, I further delve into the idea of the Rochas man as a maker. A Parisian maker: an artist, probably a writer, most certainly a flaneur. Whatever his occupation, it is the mindset that counts: the Rochas man enjoys getting dirty, so to speak with real life, keeping an unmistakably light spirit. He lives in no ivory tower. Rather, he hits the street, enjoying the energy of what happens around him, getting endless inspiration and food for thought out of it.
What defines this man, in my vision, is the gentleness of his gaze, the suaveness of his manners and the poignancy of his personal style. What I would like to convey is a nonchalance and an ease with getting clothed, with mixing colors and items together. I turned such ideas into an easy wardrobe meant to be interpreted as anyone wishes.
Softness is mandatory, across the whole spectrum: liquid volumes, flowing lines, supple fabrics and painterly hues are my medium. I tried to touch everything a man needs, offering the Rochas version of it, from soft tailoring to sportswear, from shirting to knitwear. A smattering of frills harmoniously clashes with the pragmatic precision of trenches and blousons, giving outerwear a delicately twisted slant, letting practicality and sophistication, masculine and feminine mingle and merge.
A city and life wanderer, the Rochas man collects bits and bobs, and maybe puts them on a string of rape, turning ceramic objects trouvé into necklaces. A laver of nature, he carries his painted garment holder, made in recycled paper, with pride. He likes his shirts and knits with a bit of embroidery: the human touch of craft, which can also be the uneven patina of a color, gives warmth and life.
Being atone with the environment, alive in nature is important for me, on every respect. I love natural fibers and natural colors, and I do my best to work responsibly. The Rochas man I have in mind, in the end, is urban, with a bucolic soul.
Federico Curradi, Menswear Creative Director
Tue, June 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
Tue, June 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
AMIRI SPRING SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
It’s the morning after Woodstock ’69. The sun crosses the Catskill Mountains as the final embers of Jimi Hen- drix’s torched Fender Strat float into the wind, yet the communal spirit created across those three defining days still burns.
This Spring Summer 2020 season represents a folkloric correspondence with Woodstock’s collective ideal, embracing a mindset of peace through togetherness, love and a deep connection to the heart of nature. We gather amongst a palette of earthy tones and pastel skies to pay homage to the original guitar heroes while igniting a new vanguard.
At once louche and decadent, the Summer of Love liberation is echoed by relaxed tailoring that becomes contemporary stage outfits, where construction is modernized slim to a kick flare ankle. Crochet techniques speak to artisanal craft, while embellished peace lilies flower across silk bombers.
From beatnik to bohemian, this sonic trip expands through rich suedes, velvets and desert hues. Custom-made jacquard roses trail across women’s longline coats, and silk knits are created using a unique double-weave to form an exquisite tie-dye effect.
As sunset prints inform a sense of optimism and transpire alongside transcendent psychedelic florals and starry skies, large duffel bags are introduced as well as a range of leather shoulder options that resemble guitar bodies and snare drums alluding to a nomadic lifestyle while feeding the mantra: always march to your own beat.
Of particular prominence is a patchwork motif evoking Navajo blankets and symbolic of the global influences that energize the house codes. Love bead necklaces conjure Jim Morrison and romantic sheer caftans Janis Joplin, alongside original hand-airbrushed imagery authorized in cooperation with the estate of Jimi Hendrix.
50 years on, Woodstock remains an abiding symbol of counterculture freedom, humility and camaraderie values mirrored by the Amiri family, whose hard work and kinship form the backbone of the brand.
Tue, June 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
BODE SPRING SUMMER 2020 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
This collection takes a look at my own familial ties to the Bode Wagon Company, a wagon building workshop based in Cincinnati, Ohio from 1824 to 1940. The narrative speaks to a specific time in history- that of their renowned commission far the Barnum and Bailey and Ringling Brothers Circus far ornate and elaborate show wagons. The painted and engraved tableaus of animals, far-away lands, and dreamscapes carried the circus as they traveled through the expansive and everchanging American scenery.
For Bode SS20, I envision how my family and their wagon fabrication studios were colorfully transfarmed by the great American circus. This collection is comprised ofhued crochets and novelty knits, rich earthy striped workwear, hand painted silk shirts and canvas jackets, nylons and linens with familial imagery, suede welding jackets, and signature Bode patchwork. The collection seamlessly moves between workwear silhouettes and the essence ofbig top performance culture.
The show presents models donned in ballet flats juxtaposed with looks such as early twentieth century-inspired coveralls and quintessential American domestic craft techniques. The research and development of the Spring collection was done by the Bode studio on location in Sarasota, FL at the Ringling Museum. This idyllic location was formerly known as the Winter Quarters of the Ringling Brothers Circus.
We would like to extend a special thank you to head archivist and museum curator, Jennifer Lemmer Posey and to historian and author Jan Matthews for the introduction and hospitality. Additionally, thank you to John Ringling and his family for preserving these histories and allowing the circus to have been a magnificent part of my own childhood in Atlanta, GA.
Tue, June 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
MAISON MIHARA YASUHIRO SPRING SUMMER 2020 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
Spring/Summer 20 explores the themes of underground culture and the irrelevant individual. The 1990′s was a time of authentic self-expression and unbridled creativity and for SS20 maison MIHARA YASUHIRO explores how people relate to subcultures and individuality today.
Today the work is driven by the internet, with digital messaging becoming our new reality. With this collection, Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO reevaluates a time when the underground was thriving and weaves a message of authencity though the collection. Via his own unique interpretation, Mihara Yasuhiro proposes a dynamic new take on underground culture.
Tue, June 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
Tue, June 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
BERLUTI SPRING SUMMER 2020 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
A sense of augmented reality sets the tone for the Berluti collection for Spring-Summer 2020. In his continual observance of the artisanal heritage of the maison, artistic director Kris Van Assche shines an imaginative light on the features of its legacy. Presented in front of the orangery of the Jardin du Luxembourg – a manicured interpretation of real nature – the collection expands on the adventurous wardrobe proposed in the previous season and amplifies its characteristics. As the new codes of Berluti become part of its future genetics, a seasonal consistency settles in. While in continuous evolution, the maison remains loyal to the values of its origins in the cultivation of an enduring luxury wardrobe for the multi-faceted man.
Magnifying established signatures, colours intensify. Informed by the stained surfaces of the old marble tables on which the Berluti craftsmen in the Ferrara manifattura hand-dye the archetypical patina shoe, Kris Van Assche fluoresces and acidifies his palette. Enhanced hues elevate classic tones: fluo orange and terracotta, bright yellow and mustard, cobalt blue and navy, and intense violet and royal purple meet in exuberant saturation. The sentiment is echoed in technique: the marble and patina stain motif of silk shirts is first woven into a jacquard fabric, then printed with the marble pattern, and finally overprinted with the multi-coloured stains.
As the new direction of Berluti is heightened, so is tradition. The patina suit – transmuted from the classic Alessandro shoe – is embossed with the maison’s heritage scritto motif. A largely indecipherable 19th century manuscript sacred to the Berluti archive, its handwritten letters find new life on leather tailoring evoking the idea of archive pieces that never existed. The scritto reappears in the jacquards of suits and shirts, features in the form of shadow writing on pin- striped tailoring, as a print on sportswear, on bags, and throughout the details of linings and zips. A nail-head surface decoration is introduced in homage to the shoemaking core of Berluti, in the all-over embellishment of a leather suit and a sweatshirt, and on the sole of shoes.
The presence of the scritto and nail-heads signifies Kris Van Assche’s ongoing fusion of modernity with the classic values of the maison. The symbiosis reinforces a contemporary masculinity – diverse, independent and adventurous – expressed in increasingly fluid tailoring. The silhouette expands seductively in trousers and shoulders, triggering a sense of freedom characterised by an unrestrained attitude to dress codes. Jackets appear in sleeveless form, Bermuda shorts are introduced, and the motocross trousers of the new Berluti wardrobe convert into a harmonising jacket and multicolour leather boot. An idea of sportswear is further explored in takes on perforation, in woven leather tops and outerwear in laser cut deerskin.
Enforcing a contemporary masculinity, women’s looks appear hyper-feminine. Tailoring plumed in buoyant ostrich feathers is worn over cage-knit mohair tops constructed from strings with interweaving embroidery.
In shoes, the Alessandro Edge heralds the new Berluti era, intricately combining a formal sole with a sneaker sole. This diamond-sculpted Alessandro shoe and Stellar sneaker already established at the maison appear in evolved manifestations, while a three-buckle monk shoe makes its debut. In bags, the Un Jour Gulliver is revived in patina with painted orange edges next to the Trois Nuits trio-pocketed bag adorned with motorcycle chains, patina stain bag charms, and Berluti’s signature shoe horn.
Tue, June 25 2019 » Fashion Blog
