MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC SPRING SUMMER 2012 WOMEN – MILANO FASHION WEEK

It is said for centuries that if the body is healthy so is the mind. And if, so for the sake of updating the concept, we tried to say “Fashion for a healthy body healthy”? Because, healthy also means beauty.
This is what the Moschino Cheap and Chic collection which, not coincidentally, is set in a market with stalls of fruit and vegetables, reflecting a newfound need for simple beauty of nature.
The protagonists of this mise en scene are the natural Lawn Dress, Sea Dress, Sun Dress, Rainbow Dress (which has two names for Peace) and the Strawberry Dress, characters of a fashion that leads to a new newspaper recovering ancient thought: the natural beauty radiates from the simplicity.
And here are the prints of vegetables on a silk twill dress, the strawberries on a silk chiffon, the ears of corn on a linen-cotton. And peppers and garlic are the buckle that turns into raffia belt, buttons or other vegetables that become decorations for shoes wedge, whose band is a fork.
Even the accessories, a variant on the theme that nature is even more fun: the foot appears naked while trampling the lawn – complete with daisies – that has moved on top of a wedge sandal, but the lawn seems to be also bag closed of enamel from a daisy or a “weather prediction”. And it provides a brilliant sun.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC SS 2012, MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC SS 2012 WOMEN, MOSCHINO CHEAP AND CHIC, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2012

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION & CK CALVIN KLEIN WOMEN’S SPRING 2012 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Calvin Klein collection Spring 2012
Fragile eroticism. Introduncing the Spring 2012 women’s Calvin Klein Collection. An innocent, yet sensuous emphasis on form and femininity.
Silhouettes: Sculpted and curvilinear. Suspension cuts and draping create graceful hems, slightly longer in the front and raised in the back – finding balance in asymmetry. A culotte and cropped pant have a sense and fluidity. Jackets and vests with moulded details accentuate the waist and are essential for layering. At the foundation, the purity of the slip dress. Shoulders are bare and necklines intimately contour the bust. Mystery abounds in the revealed and concealed. The romanticism and glamour of slip dresses continues into evening. An elongated, textured tulle dress is airy and effortless. A jacquard satin shawl collar coat with a fine, rose gold snake belt is the ultimate refinement.
Fabrics: Delicate silk crepe tissue underpinnings are suggestively uncovered and hidden beneath silk charmeuse and smooth silk satins. Light and flowing silks form waves and arcs, and at times are folded or pleated. Elegant double faced silk crepe and cotton crepe lend a touch of weight and depth. Texture emerges in a sleek silk/metal satin and hand-stitched details, form simple lines to allover intricate micro embroideries.
Palette: Subtle and utterly feminine. A soft, fresh palette of gardenia and petal paired with intimate hues of pout and nude – shaded with deeper tones of smoke and lacquer. Hints of metallic accents at the waist and as straps.
Accessories: A classic, demure toe, juxtaposed by an edgy spiked heel, combines femininity with a sleek sexiness. The updated t strap platform is offered in monochrome or contrasting neutral tones of sand, whitecap, avorio, porcelain, silver, anthracite, and black, with mixed combinations of patent, satin, calf, metallic, nappa, and stingray.

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Tags: CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION, CK CALVIN KLEIN, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2012

ROBERTO CAVALLI SPRING SUMMER 2012 WOMEN – MILANO FASHION WEEK

The Spring/Summer 2012 runway show defines an extremely sophisticated and feminine image. The culture of Italy and its fine artisanship are enhanced in this collection by the experience of designer Roberto Cavalli, who more than forty years ago invented avant-garde techniques, evident in prints, skins and precious embroideries.
The meeting between the linearity and perfection of the Bauhaus-inspired outerwear, the Baroque lavishness of the dresses and the mini-skirts determines the silhouette of the collection.
The long dresses follow the line of the body, with printed mousseline inlays and lace, enriched with precious embroidery applied along the sides, and paired with sartorial jackets or a slim-fitting gilet with padded shoulders.
Opaque and transparent fabrics are mixed, creating lightness and sensuality. The legs are unexpectedly revealed.
Silk jackets printed with imaginary animals are illuminated with embroidery that mimics the pattern of the print, giving a three-dimensional effect.
Skirts in silk plissés with floral prints open with the movement of the body, revealing a contrasting animalier print, expressing the hidden side of the Cavalli woman‘s personality.
Short dresses, shirts and jackets in silk with a macro floral or animalier print reveal inserted frames of a golden print.
Eveningwear is extremely precious, composed of silk tulle dresses, embroidered with sumptuous motifs and decoration.
The leather is an expression of pure Florentine artisanship: jackets and trousers created in combinations of python and crocodile, enriched with stitching, inlays, and tone-on-tone paillette embroidery.
Patent shoes with a thin sculptured or wedge heel, pumps in black crocodile or snake with an overlay of micro snake netting.
The Spring/Summer 2012 show sees the debut of the ‘Florence’ bag, created as a gesture of the designer’s love for his city.
Square shapes, in crocodile, nude or black, with double handles and golden metal macro padlock, engraved with a snake scale effect.

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Tags: Roberto Cavalli, ROBERTO CAVALLI SS 2012 WOMEN, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2012

DSQUARED2 SPRING SUMMER 2012 WOMEN – MILANO FASHION WEEK

DSQUARED2 DEANDANSBURY ROCK SUMMER FESTIVAL 2012
From London to Glastonbury, Dsquared²’s American boy decides to follow his English lover to the Glastonbury Festival of Contemporary Performing Arts before going back home to the United States.
Rock chicks and boho-hippies, muses of a new shabby chic couture, move to the beat of music on a runway covered with mud, strongly evocative of this epic music festival.
Utility jackets, men’s shirts, tribal chic long dresses with raffia embroidery, denim hot pants, waterproof parkas and rain boots take the stage. Wild chicks rock out by mixing style indie inspired pieces together with indie and grunge elements: a unique “very Glasto-style”.
Prints and fabrics: sparkly animal prints and the American flag.
Lengths: extremely short or extremely long.
Accessories: festival wrist bands, colorful cotton foulards, “flappies” hats (Seventies) or masculine ones, mirrored shades in flashy colors, fringes, fringes and once again more fringes on gilets, jackets and on the strap of The Manitoba, Dsquared2’s new it bag.
Shoes: Versatile cheerful heel rainboots for the day and night, all made of rubber and treated to have a particular mud-like effect. A similar treatment was created for the jean fabrics custom made for Madonna’s “Drowned World Tour” in 2001.
Colors: vivid and crazy just like the crowd! Banners, ribbons and curtains wave to the sound of rock. Yellow, orange, magenta, purple, turquoise and grass green. As drops of rain start to hit the stage and the grass, the greens become browns. It’s raining but who cares: We ♥ MUD!

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, DSQUARED2, DSQUARED2 SS 2012, DSQUARED2 SS 2012 WOMEN, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2012

FRANKIE MORELLO SPRING SUMMER 2012 WOMEN – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Three girls,three different ways of living life, but the same spirit of adventure and the same attempt to discover their opposites.
And just one trip to Italy, in search of the perfect “Souvenir of Italy” to take back home.
Portofino, Venice, Rome, Pisa, the magnificent Amalfi Coast are the real main characters of this trip. And the luggage?
Just one rucksack, removed from its context and turned into a pure couture version made of printed satin or silk, containing flared skirts, die-cast latex kabans, pants arriving right above the ankle and tops beneath the bust reminiscent of the American look.
Short is perfect “cyclist” style that peek out beneath the skirt open front and the gusto of that elegant and sophisticated – though always ironic – glamor that marked the years when Italians traveled astride Vespas and discovered the Dolce Vita.
The symbolic elements of the Italian cities are taken to the extreme and turned into souvenirs to wear in the form of pins,scarves and prints.
Clothes become ironic postcards to wear as a keepsake of the 1950′s Italy devoted to growing and merging and to the quest – still under way today – for the ideal city, the City of Babel, to try to draw together not only the works and masterpieces symbolic of several Italian cities but Italians as well in a single place.
A collection that reminds us that Italy, and Italian fashion, are unique in the world.

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Tags: FRANKIE MORELLO, FRANKIE MORELLO SS 2012, FRANKIE MORELLO SS 2012 WOMEN, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2012

ANTONIO MARRAS SPRING SUMMER 2012 WOMEN – MILANO FASHION WEEK

CAR JE EST UN AUTRE
The ritual of Claire and Solange, Genet’s Maids, takes place each night in a small, stuffy room that is their stage. The two sisters, who love and hate their mistress, play Madame when she is away. They take turns dressing in her clothes, imitating and mimicking her. They pretend to be a part of her vie en rose, and at the end of each daily ritual, they attempt to kill her but fail. lllusion and reality, truth and fantasy, true and false overlap and blend in a cruel game taken to the extreme.
Car je est an autre, Rimbaud would say. Each person is what she is, but above all, what she can and would like to be: a peasant or a grand dame, a lady or a servant. Each invents her own transformations. Claire and Solange always switch roles: they transform themselves and briefly live a life denied them, where life is theater and theater is life. Dualism, transformation, change, multiplication, excess, and derailment of the final destination of an object are at basis of this work. Two paths are followed, inspired by Madame, Claire, and Solange.
On one hand, the elegance and figure of the femme fatale Madame – the seductive idol with dazzling beauty and allure, adored and destroyed – are exasperated and emphasized. Fine fabrics, brilliant colors ranging from emerald green to magenta, white, ecru and black, and exquisite details evoke and emphasize a world that is often denied but lives on in one’s imagination.
On the other hand, a rejected frock that wants to escape its destiny is bedazzled, dressed in colors and covered with contrasts of light, sophisticated asymmetric details, unusual combinations of fabrics, original appliqués, intarsia and ornaments to claim its right to exist and to live and dream. The humble garment is embellished, embroidered, and enhanced.
Unusual shapes and decorations transform it into something else: a dress, skirt, jacket, or trousers. The Maids sneak up to their mistress’s wardrobe. Rummaging through it with curiosity and awe, they blend, restyle, cut, sew, embroider, and apply details of elegant party dresses on their simple frocks.
The poor, modest, plain work uniform vibrantly comes to life and expresses new energy, revealing unexpected elegance, bursting with myriad colors and shapes that create another image and life that was denied until now. lt is a new, sumptuous,
magnificent, dazzling evening gown: Madame’s dress that we can all be, for an entire lifetime or for just a game.
…it’s my turn to be MADAME!

Jean Genet

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Tags: ANTONIO MARRAS, ANTONIO MARRAS SS 2012, ANTONIO MARRAS SS 2012 WOMEN, BACKSTAGE, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2012

.NORMALUISA SPRING SUMMER 2012 WOMEN – MILANO FASHION WEEK

The .normaluisa woman – designed by Giorgiana – for the next summer tells about an endless vacation, that starts in Positano, with sorbet colors like lime, tangerine and grapefruit, and comes through Africa for a chic and sauvage safari wearing garments made of hemp fluorescent touches. She Chooses wallpaper-prints, inspired, by the installations of the Danish artist Nina Saunders, mixed with fabrics in a romantic bouquet of flowers inlaid on cotton sateen.
The atmosphere is vaguely Sixties, like the one told in the film “Le Mepris”, hand-made crochet clothes and as fundamental “accessories” owns and cultivates a good dose of culture and an engaged intellect . Naive, but not too much. On the turntable plays “Cameo Lover” in loop..
She Travels with a suitcase full of memories and cultures, postcards and souvenirs, textures of feeling, custom and colors at the opposite in a gentle femininity that chooses strict volumes, embraced and tribal at the same times.
Cocktail dresses mixed with cotton knitwear with contrasted edges, and lurex I inserts. Everything is double, in a continuous alternation of proportions that makes each piece an optical illusion: as the double belts on the waist, double the length, double pleated skirts that stretch the clothes to the knees and the double use of the silk trench coat to wear as a dress. Double is also the name of the brand!
MATERIALS
Scenic materials, inspired by Madame Gres exhibition in Paris: pleated silk, cotton muslin plumetis spotted by irregular, laminated fabrics, mats, crepe and lace mixed in stretch cotton satin. Ladylike when choosing fabrics like the taste more sporty lasered satin. A little “mal d’Africa”, hemp rope in a loop pile effect.
COLOURS
Reflections of blue and white, never banal , alternating with bright tones of cedar, mandarin and grapefruit, adding a tone of chic and discreet, always with a sense of detail but without any obstentation.

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Tags: NORMALUISA, NORMALUISA SS 2012, NORMALUISA SS 2012 WOMEN, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2012

JO NO FUI SPRING SUMMER 2012 WOMEN – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Chic esotique – esotique, excentrique, ironique. Gossip girl and romy schenider. The Images from ” la piscina ” are a pool party in Los Angeles. Populated with actress from the new Hollywood. Tropical glamour meets bon ton. Linear silhouettes and luxuriant prints. Palms, intertwined banana leaves, exotic fruits. jewel effects in briolette – gemstone needle – work.
From a 1960′ s cocktail hour. On Dual – colored, caribbean flavored dresses and on the collars of striped ivy league skirt. Or a pleated mini. On a tiny blouse draped over the shoulders. All over bamboo prints. On metropolitan safaris. Slipping into a resort palette. Sand, ivory, hibiscus flame, chocolate, black. Ice – cream hues that remind us of pool water. Improvised cuts, intriguing frills, minx- like and airy lengths in mantle dresses, caftan tops and butterfly – sleeved tube dresses. Impalpable like a perfume trailing off. Worn with flat black or nude sandals. And with a mini, shell bag with mother of pearl plating in rodoid. For the true socialite.

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Tags: JO NO FUI, JO NO FUI SS 2012, JO NO FUI SS 2012 WOMEN, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2012

ALBINO SPRING SUMMER 2012 WOMEN – MILANO FASHION WEEK

The collection’s silhouettes take shape from the 1958 painting of surrealist Max Ernst: “33 fillettes partant a la chasse d’un papillon blanc”. They are similar, yet at the same time different patterns, which underline the different personality of each one. Fil rouge of this collection is surrealism and its expressive techniques, the research, the play on architectural volumes and an innocent feminine figure, a constant of Albino’s style.
The antique technique of frottage, re-discovered in modern times by Ernst himself, has been applied to the fabrics: toiles a patronage used to cut the first canvasses are printed with enamels and lamé or, more simply, thickened to make them more full-bodied. Collage and ripping in surrealist paintings are translated into a research for three-dimension as well as also in the pure lines and measured volumes and in the matching of coarse cotton crepe to silk, of lamé to the acetate mikado double, all this in a contrast between organic and techno.
…the lightness of butterflies and their presence-absence…
So, as in Ernst’s painting, the butterfly is not represented but perceived by the irregular brush stokes, it’s the techniques used in the collection that convey the presence of the butterfly: petal embroideries (either degrade or brush painted), appliqués in airbrushed organza and georgette and prints with the wings’ graphics in animalier.
The research and neatness of the lines translates into essential constructions, where stitching and cuts are reduced to the minimum: Kimono sleeves, skirts and dresses made with a single fabric panel and cocoon capes and dust coats, or the contrast between rounded and squared lines, wheels and rectangles. Everything is finalised to making even the garments made with the heavier and technical fabrics look light and aerial.
The colour palette is natural and soft: ecru, coarse, tobacco, pine green with strokes of black and white, distanced by touches of shiny colour, yellow, cold, peach, cognac, brass and bluette.

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Tags: ALBINO, ALBINO SS 2012, ALBINO SS 2012 WOMEN, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2012

MAX KIBARDIN: ” IN EXCESS” SPRING SUMMER 2012 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

We are often cautioned to do everything in moderation. Yes, it is an undeniable fact that sometimes, one must throw caution to the wind and do everything in excess.
Exactly, what is this excess? It is indeed an unapologetic excess of glamour, hair, makeup, sex, outfits, shoes, decadence, eccentricity.
Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin bourgeoise women exemplify heady excesses and devil-may-care attitude. Robert Palmer iconic music video “Addicted to love” featuring identically dressed models whit pale faces, dark eye makeup and bright red lipstick. Patrick Nagel illustrations of contemporary woman: She is elegant and sophisticated, exuding an air of mysterious enticement. She is capable, alluring and graceful, but also aloof and distant.
Max Kibardin’s Spring Summer 2012 collection interprets this kind of women’s shoes in quotations of metallic python, Swarovski Crystals, patent leather, fishnets and the new super sexy winding heel.
Glamour, decadent, sexy, smart, this is particular collection, wrought by the designer – step by step – allows a woman, as it were, to have a Helmut Newton moment, a decadent, a sexy moment, a disco moment, a Bourdin moment, in short, a total Dionysian experience without its after-taste.
Kibardin interprets the early eighties bourgeoise elegance and its excentricity in a palette of black, metallic red ink, nude and neon. The restrain of palette becomes a metaphor for alienation, moral decay and sweet melancholy of the excess era.

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Tags: MAX KIBARDIN, MAX KIBARDIN SS 2012