GAZZARRINI FALL WINTER MEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

IT’S SO SIMPLE

A travel that starts from the tradition, that retraces know streets, even if renewed.
The inspiration born here: from elements and characteristics that recall Bruges. Its colours, its romantic and gloomy atmospheres.
White of the swans, red of bricks, the geometry of constructions, architectures.
A direct reference to the old tradition, to the hand-craft taste, that makes each production exciting.
It is the tailoring effect: that characterizes Gazzarrini as ‘ Maison Industrielle ‘ , it begins from the building’s architectural, roofs, bridges and it reaches the creation of the cloth; heraldic depiction and laces woof are read in a modern view. Each part of the romantic iconography gets appearance of the style pattern.
Tradition and very warm works and felts are mixed with angora or cashmere declined in a endless shadow of greys, greens, until mud-colour creating games of depth and intensity. Structured nylons or coloured sheepskin insets tell a story that is an ensemble of cultures and traditions: unique way of interpreting the present.
Games of prices offer a tridimentional silhouette. Heraldy and aristocratic traditional nuances create shirts in delicate colours: green, grey and camel which cope with yellow and active rose high-neck mohair that can be worn with a jacket.
Flannels and gaberdine are revised in shape and perfomant volume and underline the urban technicality of trousers: a sport concept applied to the elegance where the must is represented by thin elastic cotton.
Gazzarrini wants to travel the stree of ” contemporary tailoring ” with its own connotations.
Carefully cuts, that look after the tridimensionality of the figure. The elegance that springs from the balance of lines that melt in a sinuous movement.
The formal is deconstructed and the informal becomes elegance.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13, GAZZARRINI, GAZZARRINI F/W 2012-13, GAZZARRINI F/W 2012-13 MEN

ERMANNO SCERVINO FALL WINTER MEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

ROCK ROYAL

Ermanno Scervino brings us the Rock Royal style for next winter. Modern Italian sartorial craftsmanship meets English inspiration. Argyle knitwear and stripes under tailored garments.
The House’s exclusive fabrics and the stretch boiled wool are the centerpieces of fitted yet soft jackets and overcoats. Experimentation of new comfortable knit fabrics doubled with plain knit.
The check prints -from Prince of Wales to micro and maxi houndstooth– blend together pairing perfectly on coats, jackets and scarves. Similarly, the worn cotton parkas are doubled in Kalgan fur with argyle insets. The sporty jackets in Prince of Wales check or houndstooth with plunge nappa leather detailing trade off with double worked, woollen cloth tailored coats with visible selvedge. The military inspired woollen cloth outerwear is raw cut with patches and contrast stitching.
Toying with mix and match, the loose, high collar shirts present unusual pairings of stripes and rhombuses, at times resembling jackets, but worked with knitting needles, or at others, appearing as cardigans with fur stitch collars. The white pant becomes the guiding line of next winter’s new look.
Black for evening. Double cloth coats and tuxedo jackets with plastron and lapels in velvet and satin. Jackets marry pilor with macramè yielding a worn effect as the result of being crafted by hand.
The shirts are white with pleats and ribbing. The silk scarf is black and white striped.
Accessories: scarves in special hides and velvet with an aged look, as well as new ankle boots in goat fur.
Scarves in the collection’s fabrics or in double suede with cashmere/silk knit.
Colors: melange and anthracite greys, army green, shades of burnt brown, blues and blacks. Hints of light blue on the inside of the technical bomber jackets and the Oxford shirts. Points of red and yellow on the finishing of coats and shirts.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2012-13, ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2012-13 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13

BALLY MEN’S AUTUMN/WINTER 2012 COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Every journey begins a single step and in the quest for grand adventure and excellence, Bally’s Creative Directors Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler have created a men’s collection for Autumn/Winter 2012 imbued with the spirit of a life lived outdoors that is charged with exhilarating journeys and inspiring pursuits.
In a collection dominated by technical detail, durable finishes and exceptional craftsmanship, it was never more certain that Bally owns winter: for the distinct and water repellant waxed suede and calf leather of the shoe collection; to the waterproof zippers and fold-over magnetic closure of the bags designed to protect from the elements; through to the highly technical detail of the outerwear distinguished by cleverly constructed pieces notable for their innovative use of leather and technical fabrics. Designed to protect the urban traveler from the elements, the outerwear includes impressive pieces such as a rich calf leather storm coat backed with Shetland wool twill. A subtle gold and silver leaf print dominates the garments and a special weather beaten effects completes the look that matches the worldly smarts of Bally’s trailblazing adventurer.
The shoe collection is founded on Bally’s signature Scribe with its renowned craftsmanship and Goodyear-welting. Blake construction has been introduced to a range of high quality dress office shoes for smart seasonal style. Bally has increased its focus on relaxed men’s moccasins and together with curling boot that was completely re-engineered for winter 2011, every man is covered no matter his walk of life.
The theme of outdoor adventure continues with the men’s bags featuring highly robust luggage, messengers and crossbody bags all designed for extreme durability as our urban explorer moves through his daily life.
Each pieces of Bally’s Autumn/Winter 2012 men’s collection has been designed with exacting purpose and precisely constructed in the Swiss brand’s fine craftsmanship traditions, reflecting demanding adventures through the weathered Swiss alps whose raw beauty is spectacularly outlined by winter snow.
Colours: black, chocolate, toffee, old silver, old gold and bronze.

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Tags: BALLY, BALLY F/W 2012, BALLY F/W 2012 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13

ROBERTO CAVALLI FALL WINTER MEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Inspirations of the Roberto Cavalli Man for the Autumn-Winter 2012/2013 collection unfold like a fable. Oneiric, ironic and philosophical, with touches of Tarantino; it is narrated as if by an ancient parchment, given to the fashion show. With dream like accompaniment by the blues chords and dissonances of one-man band Son of Dave, performing live on the runway amidst this shadow play. His music bewitches like a snake charmer, enchanting four animal-like men; incarnations and metaphors of the natural elements: air, earth, water, fire; definite personifications of the multifaceted soul of next season’s Roberto Cavalli man. The elements transform the wardrobe, giving life to the various themes of the show.
It begins with animalier patterns- the starting point of the collection – which in spires the design of patterns, prints and embroidery, shaking up the customary sartorial habits. Fabrics and patters are renewed through the use of three-dimensional effects that resemble imperceptible natural tattoos.
Crocodile skin is used not only as a material for extremely precious smoking jackets—the scales themselves are printed on velvet, also lending their texture to the smoking jackets, and giving new life to jeans. Tiger print, on the other hand, abandons its theatrical presence, plays a more low-key role: cutouts and stitching on matelassé bikers, cashmere capes, or the jacquard from the knitwear. Snake is still present, used for profiles and snake print details.
Feathers play a significant role, revisited in black and white photographic prints, micro to macro, on silk, often rendered even more precious by the application of real feathers and aigrettes. At times magnified, creating a new kind of spotted-pattern with a graphic and masculine allure.
Cheviot stripes are still present, as are pinstripes (appearing this time out on denim), English wool and the more classical chevron. Lapels of dinner jackets are embroidered with crystals, returning to their traditionally smaller form in silk and cashmere, or recreated directly on the garments through skilful sartorial cutting.
Suits and urban-suits take inspiration from traditional tailoring. The silhouettes however, present an abrupt lightness, as if caressed by a desert wind, the same wind that influences the choice of textiles and wearability, unexpectedly more fluid and relaxed compared to the formal precision of the past seasons. There is an evolution – rather than a revolution – of the fit: underlined by a slightly narrower shoulder, trousers sitting looser on the thighs, refined shirts from pashmina, and destructured coats with raglan sleeves.
The hint of a sophisticated oriental zephyr. Found also in particular details: the fine threaded embroideries, or the cornelly profiles gently worked like ottoman calligraphy. The palette is composed of nocturnal and eerie tones inspired by blues music, which fade into nuances of saturated colors darkly tinted, like blacks, grays and blues, harmoniously clashing with unexpected flashes of acid yellow, antique pink or sugar cane.
Essential leather Chelsea boots, which are also worn over the pants, and slippers, entirely embroidered with real feathers, as are the sashes and thin scarves that are left gently draping under the smoking jackets. Braided leather, snake, fabric and metal belts like Berber jewels, felt hats and necklaces with rock crystals, onyx and solid stone with the tressé python emblems.

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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13, Roberto Cavalli, ROBERTO CAVALLI F/W 2012-13, ROBERTO CAVALLI F/W 2012-13 MEN

JOHN VARVATOS MEN’S COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2012 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

For Fall/Winter 2012 Collection John Varvatos was inspired by the city of New York, with its seamless juxtaposition of the old and the new: a place where Central Park and the Guggenheim, the Chrysler building and the Statue of Liberty melt into one, creating a unique urban texture.
Silhouette softly precise. The look is clean and nonchalant, elegant and easy. The accent is on single pieces as building blocks of the outfits: trademark layering leaves way to a restrained take on dressing up that is soulful as opposed to stark.
Jackets and outerwear textured and light. Reverse cutaway jackets and coats with leather details completely devoid of any filling create a smooth, dynamic line. Short coats have the easy softness of a knit, but are in fact tailored. Suit jackets, either single or double breasted, button up asymmetrically, with a sophisticated effect. Subtle details alter the aspect of wardrobe staples: a zipper running along the raglan of a trench coat sleeve, grommets on sleeve cuffs, a leather multi wrap belt on the pea coat. Vest add a gentlemanly touch.
Knitwear chunky yet weightless. Knitwear is the key element of the pure and individual look. Sweaters turn into a way of being and are used either as outerwear or not: cold-dyed wool and cashmere jumpers and zippered coats, tricot short coats in mixes of fine and chunky yarns, hombre alpaca sweaters; light knitted jackets in morphing patterns.
Trousers relaxed and easy. Tailored pants have a new line: the articulated knee and a small tab at the hem allows them to be worn easily inside or outside of boots.
Leather roughly precious. Long or curly haired burnished shearling is used for short coats and vest worn on top suits. Brushed calfskin blusons with a pony skin effect have a precise, militaristic allure.
Shirts elongated and elegant. Mean to be worn outside of trousers, even with suits and vest, wing collared shirts are longer on the front, with a reverse cutaway effect, creating a soulful counterpoint to the look.

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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13, JOHN VARVATOS, JOHN VARVATOS F/W 2012, JOHN VARVATOS F/W 2012 MEN

FRANKIE MORELLO FALL WINTER MEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

MEDITATION TOUR

A journey, a true meditation tour, from evening to morning, from materialism to simplicity, from the city to the Himalayas.
A meditative and mystical journey to rediscover lightness and purity, abandoning the attachment to material goods. A strong presentation, which aims at expressing the desire to alter the human mindset and approach to life. From urban to awareness, lightness, purification. The collection is divided in this way: into three parts, the stages through which the Frankie Morello man must pass in order to achieve liberty.
The first is an expression of the attachment to material goods, using colours and materials reminiscent of the city. It represents the city man in his daily life, following the rules of urbanisation .
The central stage shows the human being beginning to feel the urgency for change; an evolution which occurs step by step with the start of internal journey and newfound awareness of himself. Here, then, even the colours, stitching and materials start to diversify and take on different lightness. Lastly, the third and final stage, in which lightness becomes the lifestyle to be pursued and the abandonment of material things is realised. Spirituality is the star of this story, taking man almost back to nudity; a symbol of transformation and mark the transition through the materials, appliqués and colours, giving a clear image of the metamorphosis, until finally achieving hypothetical self-awareness. The presentation is accompanied by a live performance from Burger Girl, a musical project and alter-ego of Benjamin Dukhan, an upcoming eclectic French artist which, with his “electro-bitch” universe, combines toughness and sensuality with romance and spirituality. His performance accompanies the metamorphosis, through a journey that also becomes musical.
The show also includes the presence of Giuseppe Sartori, one of the most interesting figures on the Italian theatrical scene, part of the famous Ricci e Forte company ( www.ricciforte.com).
The theatre represented has become famous and is a source of inspiration for various other contemporary entities: filled with flawless, clear images, constructed in meticulous, unsettling, colourful, sometimes even indecent theatrical architectures.
The artist will perform his best interpretation of the metamorphosis of the human through the meditation tour narrated by the collection.

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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13, FRANKIE MORELLO, FRANKIE MORELLO F/W 2012-13, FRANKIE MORELLO F/W 2012-13 MEN

COSTUME NATIONAL HOMME FALL WINTER MEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

BOHEMIANS AND DREAMERS

Remix attitude trench coats, tailoring jackets with knitwear back panels. Biker jackets combined with coats, half trenches half bomber jackets, knitwear and leather garments.
Blended trough thermowelding and needing, mohair details on tuxedos and tubular knitwear on the back.
Shirts double twisted cotton with knitwear collar, fabrics paired with jersey. Micropattern e microcheck.
Two fits of pants: skinny and cropped carrot ankle cut.
Fabrics double face, mohair fusion and contrasting cloth, right side drawn and overdyed backside. Jersey, cotton, flannel, fustian and felt with printed check and knitted needing, british taste mohair for the formal side.
Colors: ice, dusty grey, bordeaux, octane, anthracite grey, navy and black.
Bags and Shoes with deer, calf and horse leather with raw cut trim, leather mixed with fabric, merge with silicone lining.
Clutch transforming into shopping bag with metallic and plastic handles.
Three models of shoes: derby, beatles and ankle boots with high rubber sole and leather. Palladium stainless toe.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, COSTUME NATIONAL, COSTUME NATIONAL HOMME F/W 2012-13, COSTUME NATIONAL HOMME F/W 2012-13 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13

CORNELIANI MEN’S COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2012 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

The Great Gatsby: the power of style

A cashmere trench coat tied at the waist over an extremely elegant strictly white double-breasted suit. In anticipation of the remake of The Great Gatsby, Corneliani re-inteprets the elegance of the great Don Juan with the power of a contemporary sartorial style and meticulous attention to details, starting with the bag and shoes to match in tweed, Prince of Wales and cashmere.
A touch of high style that reinforces the collection’s philosophy: a contemporary “custom-made” tailoring to focus upon that will win the hearts of consumer and emphasize the brand’s point of origin.
For the Fall-Winter 2012 collection, the must have is the cashmere knitted suit that highlights a style which is increasingly relaxed, confident and unstructured while still observing tradition. Double-breasted models are more slim-fitted and less formal; topcoats are long and fluid; the contours of suits are unquestionably subtler.
Optical and the “new” black with a glossy woollen tone that create a luminous chromatic effect.
For those special touches of eccentricity: a sheared mink jacket – as soft and light as velvet – for a very special evening, a knit and fur poncho or a sport-chic heavy jacket.
For freezing temperatures, patchwork sheepskin with fabric details: easy wear that is bold, informal and sophisticated.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, CORNELIANI, CORNELIANI F/W 2012, CORNELIANI F/W 2012 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13

ANDREA POMPILIO MEN’S COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2012-13 – PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO

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Tags: ANDREA POMPILIO, ANDREA POMPILIO FW 2012-13, BACKSTAGE, Pitti Immagine

VALENTINO MEN’S COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2012-13 – PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO

The Valentino maison returns to Florence where the story began in 1962. A fine thread links past and present, the Sala Bianca and Palazzo Corsini: a tribute to men’s Couture becomes an opportunity to look to the future, aware of a glorious tradition.
The style is sleek and timeless. Inovation is inspired by the past, and authenticity is a value. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli compose the pieces of an iconographic sartorial collection that. establishes contemporary masculinity without confining it within a formula.
The rigorous aesthetic comes from the technique: from cuts, construction, and a savoir faire that is constantly updated. It focuses on details and particular aspects that may not be seen a first glance. Subtleness is the salient trait of the Valentino man and his understand, unconscious elegance.
A modernist mood – in pursuit of clarity and simplicity – permeates the Fall/Winter 2012-13 collection. The silhouette is sharp. The process of concise editing is translated into a modular wardrobe: archetypal garments that are in the eyes and DNA of men, from the suit to the loden coat, are restyled by rebelliously toying with the rules of apparent normalcy. The loud-mouthed culture is replaced by whispers: true luxury today is talking the people who chosen to listen.
Architectural shapes, with affirmative aplomb, are achieved through subtraction weight and anything unnecessary are eliminated. Couture and sportswear techniques are combined to create a news stylistic languages that is sartorial and dynamic. The construction are combined to create a news stylistic language that is the sartorial and dynamic. The construction can be seen underneath the fabric: The compact line of jackets is obtained through fabric bonded the horsehair facings, not to the lining. Heat-bonded tape replaces seams on shirts. Slim-fit darted trousers have a razor pleat and are ankle-lenght. Outerwear has a sleek, pure line: fitted peacoats have a small shoulders and the carcoat has more volume at the back. The color of cashmere sweaters with a jersey base underlines the sum of the parts and creates impalpable volumes. Back collars and details on the deep blue tuxedo create unusual embellishments that quickly bring to mind the hedonistic nightlife of Rome in the sixties.
A subtle sense of surprise runs through the collection with two-tones ties, constructivist prints, and unusual combinations.
Materials are precious and compact felt, wool/silk barathea, wool and nylon blends, dry cotton, Japanese denim, and leather. The color palette suggest urban camouflage: masculine gray nuances – from stone gray to metal – and virile shades of blue are interrupted by offbeat splashes of red-black, forest green and beige.
The search for soft precision continues in accessories: leather clutches and totes, sleek Oxford shoes, and enameled metal sunglasses.
The collection’s visione of precise style express subtly subversive elegance that is sophisticated yet free of frills and with a sartorial couture approach, because refreshingly light simplicity is always invisible to the eye but clearly makes the difference.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, Pitti Immagine, VALENTINO FW 2012-13, VALENTINO GARAVANI