Ermanno Scervino © Copyright 2013
FALL WINTER 2013/14
MEN’S COLLECTION – WOMEN’S PRECOLLECTION AN EXCITING CREATIVE APPROACH
An exciting creative approach and a profoundly remodelled line of research that reconsiders, recomposes and reinvents the very roots of the expressive world of Ermanno Scervino. Two collections for the Florentine Maison – the woman’s Pre-collection F/W 2013-14 and the men’s F/W Collection – that intersect and counterpoise each other on a harmonious keynote, paced out by tonal references, hyper-contemporary suggestions and strong analogies. All these come together in a single major show, played out in the austere Mannerist space of the Salone dei Cinquecento in Palazzo Vecchio, the most authentic and emblematic soul of the City of the Lily. It is indeed precisely the Florentine lily, with all its proud symbolic impact and its timeless, stylised geometric elegance, that features on some of the items that Ermanno Scervino has conceived, underscoring the significance of this tribute to the infinite artistic riches, the beauty and the potent capacity of inspiration of the Tuscan capital where the Maison has its premises. Ermanno Scervino never tires of stressing the vital importance to his work of the direct comparison with the perfect landscape of the Tuscan countryside, with the pure, Humanist light that vibrantly sketches the contours of the stunning hills, the painterly horizons and lush fields. Over sixty appearances on the runway in a show that meshes two languages of different styles and lineage albeit in this specific case in the most staggeringly close dialogue.
For the coming F/W season the Scervino man looks unhesitatingly towards the very mould of the tradition of man’s tailoring. But he does so with a jaunty and extremely youthful elegance that blends austerity and humour in dynamic, ultra-slender shapes, with restrained, almost elusive revers for the jackets, figure-hugging styles that define the body, mellow rock reflexes on masterful grisailles, supported by slightly stretch neoprene weaves. Easy-going early 60s charm, with “Dolce Vita” nuances for the ties, with a hint of casual intellectual refinement. The play of opposites in unusual materials and textures: suede and shiny lacquered fabrics, flannel and bird’s eye weaves that dialogue naturally with precise sporty citations, that disturb and play uncompromising havoc with the aesthetic codes and canons of this new modernity. Blazers that mingle with masterful knitwear, created through precious sometimes manual processes, contrast knit mesh overlaid on raglan pullovers, the overcoat in supersoft black leather that looks like cloth and reveals a flagrantly technological core. Full total black velvet edged with a dandyish piping in grosgrain for evening, when the pure white, essential, composite and highly-structured shirt plays the lead role. Scervino’s colour palette is resolved in practically a trio of greys, declined in shades verging from lead to a light, impalpable and aerial tone and absolute black with precious veinings of blue light. A diktat that is contradicted here and there and enhanced only by the enlivening rhythm of burgundy. Amazing hats: felts evoking the aura of adventure, and comfortable distinctly masculine shoes, with rounded shapes and toes.
The Ermanno Scervino F/W 2013-14 Women’s Pre-collection is an authentic firework display. The quintessentially feminine language that has always characterised Scervino’s poetics here becomes essential, returns to its most intimate core and a distinctly pure emanation, to the potent joy of the design. The lines map the body, tracing its contours, at once soft and concise. Fourreau in black leather, in cognac suede, palazzo pyjamas opting for a male “must” such as grisaille, or garbing themselves in luminous ivory wool, giving life to a passe-partout timeless chic. Python dissolves to be magically recomposed in symmetrical ranks and ranks following the natural patterns, alternated with the impalpable lightness of organza. Leather is embellished with embroideries and floral and phytomorphic openwork, dramatic inserts, a hymn to sensuality. And then lace, delicate and suffused, masterfully tinged with secret dyes to create the incredible softness of a precious vintage effect. And once again here we have a staging of material opposites, combined with a colour range that from black to pure whites and grey stretches through to the distilled opalescent nuance of “ash pink”. Behind the relentless and prodigious creativity of Ermanno Scervino is a peerless universe of skilled hands, most of them female, an amazing and cohesive craft expertise that is heir to a secular practice, knowledge and aesthetics. A unique human and professional heritage that allows the dream to come true, that transforms the cipher of the creative expression, the basic idea, the genesis of an artistic temperament, into something tangible and real.
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Tags: ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO FW 2013-14, FALL WINTER MEN 2013-14, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2013-14, Pitti Immagine
Tue, January 22 2013 » Fashion Blog
Mon, January 21 2013 » Fashion Blog
Thu, December 27 2012 » Fashion Blog
THE VIVIAN GIRLS HAVE WON!
The monsters are defeated! Giants, spectres, fears, weaknesses, doubts, dangers within and without ourselves. Elsie is vindicated and Simonetta triumphs.
She marries in white. There’ll be a grand celebration.
Starting at dawn, a joyous ding-dong of bells summons everyone. There’s something new, the air is sweet, an air of other places and other times. The breeze sways red, yellow, purple flowers; silvery spines shimmer. The table sparkles: crystal, platinum, silver, silk, flowers, cakes. Everything’s a bit heaped together, but in a good way, with elegance and harmony. They’ve decided that today the world must be made romantic. That’s the only way it will regain its original meaning.
So a poet says. And he’s right. Today they celebrate!
One of them is a young bride and they all dress up in her honour. They’re all here, they’ve come from faraway places and times, very faraway. Daisy, Elsie, Anna, Joyce, Jenny, Catherine, Anna, Vera not forgetting Sailor Moon, lively Teresa as well as Andrée, Rosemonde, Albertine and Cate and Luna… They are young women in the bloom of youth, bellas mariposas, multicoloured butterflies that love flowers and a little shade, too. They want to play some more; they dress in their finery to say that the world can change, become sunny, enchanted, unreal.
Bouclé fabrics, textural tweeds, damasks in various thicknesses and colours, pink, milky-white, peach-pink, apricot, lilac, pale green, pastel shades, ceremonial colours, golden threads. Long-forgotten Chanel jackets, military jackets taken apart and reassembled. They project con- trasts, ambivalence, dreams, illusions, hopes, darkness and light the stuff of life. This is why jackets, duster coats and dresses have duality, they become “others”. At the back, black, white, ecru cotton in geometric, floral, dotted patterns; in front, hand-executed decorations and embroidery, extravaganzas of flowers, branches, buds, butterflies, storms, joins, showers of pearls and Swarovski crystals. In a passionate urge to see clearly, emerge from the shadows, from the darkness and, amidst songs and silence, go towards a shining horizon.
TINY VARIATIONS IN SPARKLES
Swarovski crystals speak of other things, they take us by the hand and lead us elsewhere.
They take us to roads covered in light, they tell us that sun-dust will always filter through even the tiniest chink.
The road is covered in pebbles and stones, dark and radiant presences, as sweet as oboes, green as pastures or seabeds, as white as ice lances melting in the sun. Precious, intense light chases the shadows away and gives courage, energy and joie de vivre.
It emits from every fragment, from every thread, it radiates intense rainbows, small, large, endless luminous labyrinths in a thousand directions.
Flooded with light, objects, fabrics and people are transformed, they become something else, magic narrations with vaster, more universal meanings.
And so Swarovski crystals live and speak;
simple, sophisticated, elegant atoms that send luminous messages, they invite us to look for hidden beauty and light.
They remind us that real things are enlivened and ordered according to a logic that defies reason, dictated by pure wonder, to illuminate and colour the journey of our present.
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Tags: ANTONIO MARRAS, ANTONIO MARRAS SS 2013, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2013
Mon, December 24 2012 » Fashion Blog
Tue, December 4 2012 » Fashion Blog
Iceberg © Copyright 2012
Iceberg: part rock, part rebel, part aristo. Colors and shapes highlighting the rich, irreverent personality of a woman with a casual chic mindset.
Sensual, relaxed, fluid, happy.
A keen study of company archives for a fresh take on the style of a brand dating back to 1974: pioneer of a classy, upscale form of sportswear now making the biggest return ever on runways worldwide.
Knitwear with leather inserts, stud embroidery with the mark of fine craftsmanship.
The micro leather biker jacket in perfect contrast to a long skirt. For daytime too.
Suede with gorgeous stone and crystal encrustation. Graphic prints featuring geometric patterns and wallpaper influences. Cinch belts offsetting the fluidity of materials, so defining the sillhouette.
Novel color mixes: orange + fuchsia, yellow + apple green, Klein blue + black.
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Tags: ICEBERG, ICEBERG SS 2013, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2013
Wed, November 28 2012 » Fashion Blog
Thu, November 22 2012 » Fashion Blog
Frankie Morello © Copyright 2012
Essential shapes, flat volumes, cuts and graphic motifs for the next Frankie Morello woman, inspired by the frigid esthetic of the costumes from Oskar Schlemmer’s Triadic Ballet, combined with the more passionate atmosphere of ancient wrestling.
Just as in the triadic fable, the garment is conceived as a mathematically proportional correspondence between the human form and space in an abstract unification with the cosmos.
Graphic elements composed of triangles where the triad (color, form and space) interpenetrates and merges with itself to achieve perfect balance. No longer do clothes adapt to the body, but rather the body to the clothes.
Shapes: Trapezoidal dresses, calf-length trousers and skirts, boxy pea coats, oversize t-shirts.
Colors: Flesh tone, ochre, cyclamen, Matisse blue, green.
Fabrics: Douchesse, double mikado, crepe sablè , silk Lurex , organza, ottoman.
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Tags: FRANKIE MORELLO, FRANKIE MORELLO SS 2013, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2013
Wed, November 21 2012 » Fashion Blog
Thu, November 15 2012 » Fashion Blog
Moschino © Copyright 2012
“Short-length Features”
Hit the “play” button to flash images from Casinò, shifting attention, during intervals on the famous film, Two for the Road, to this Moschino Spring/Summer 2013, a screen shot of an elegant woman dressed in minimal proportions, geometric lines and high-impact graphic elements.
The desire to pay tribute to an iconic reference from the Moschino world like the two-tone of black and white with a nod to the ‘60s.
Historic colours reinterpreted with new symmetries, miniatures of dresses with different details, trompe l’oeil effects, visible embroidery and oversize buttons.
But summer also loves colour and this season’s need for colour will be answered with a bow to one of the most famous textile designers who lived in Italy; Ken Scott.
Skirts and pants with contrasting trim make the collection sharp and geometric, inlaid two-tone stripes and the fabrics, moving from fuller, rounder ones to fabrics that envelop the figure, all without forgetting the Sangallo patchwork, recalling the full sun of Italian summers.
Special attention has been dedicated to the accessory, an integral part of the dress but with a different, distinct personality for each look.
A “short” film woven with a “graphic” plot for a Moschino summer that breezily shows off your legs!
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Tags: MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO SS 2013, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2013
Thu, November 15 2012 » Fashion Blog
