At its third season, the Onitsuka Tiger X Andrea Pompilio represents the perfect union between the sportswear heritage of the Japanese brand and the Italian creativity of Andrea Pompilio.
For the SS2014 the designer took inspiration from the musicians, artists and break-dancers that enliven the streets of the most underground neighborhoods in Los Angeles.
The prints, Andrea Pompilio’s signature feature, blend together with Onitsuka Tiger’s Collection in a kaleidoscope of computerized, sprayed and tattooed graphics that recall the artworks of urban writers.
The tiger, icon of the Japanese brand, keeps being reinterpreted as if it was free to express all its strength, and applied to outerwear, sweatshirts, trousers, shorts and t-shirts.
For the first time, a capsule collection for women is added to the traditional men’s line, maintaining its strong street style personality.
The colors recall the freshness of California, with clear references to Downtown L.A.’s graffitis.
The accessories line of backpacks, caps and visors has a touch of the original Los Angeles ’80s Hip Hop style revisited with a contemporary vision.
A reverent guard of stone effigies hold vigil over the blooming lavender and citrus trees of the Corsini gardens. By day, their solemn silhouettes stand tall against the harsh tuscan sun; as dusk falls, the weathered sentinels cast long shadows across the verdant labyrinth.
The grandeur of architecture softens and fades into the evening, as obscurity arrives withe the night. Handmaidens appear diaphanous, in garments suffused with the hues and lines of landscape. Structures are betrayed by chiaroscuro, as cloth and skin mingle in seductive chemistry.
In a palette od concrete, sandstone, onyx and indigo, abstract geometries of the cubist painting school inspire a patchwork of airy textiles placed across the body. Dresses as paintings.
An angular rhetoric defines the collection’s graphic edge, with the 3D notion of perspective causing horizons to appear and disappear in smooth planes.
Shantung silk and watery jacquard evoke the rough textures of the palazzo exterior against and abundance of poplin cotton, chosen for a polished asceticism.
Keyhole cutouts and transparency highlight the shoulder in striped knitwear and bonded jersey bustiers, opposing the rigid proportions of box tunics and smock dresses cut in striated silk gazar, starched poplin and a sheer, spotty jacquard.
By way of ruched inserts, the crisp lightness of panelled blouses and shifts is tempered at the waist in a manipulation of volume – its effects heightened against the flat form of a kimono sleeve.
Opening the show, the symmetry of a strict column is disrupted in a slash of amethyst jacquard, and elsewhere a blazer wraps across the hips in bicolor silk, laced across the shoulders in thick whipcord.
This threaded technique is echoed in raffia at the gathered waist of full cotton skirts, which feature pooling patch pockets adding further shape.
A passage of bright white highlights the crucial silhouettes under a clinical glare, mirrored in a finale of inky black. Square-heeled sandals wrap across the toe in a collage of striped python and nylon weave.
As special guest of Pitti Italics/Uomo, the footwear label Aquazzura has presented its new Cruise Collection 2014 at the iconic Palazzo Corsini in Florence.
Under the motto “Let’s Dance” the Aquazzura presentation was inspired by Dance and Movement. The exclusive performance in Aquazzura high heels by worldwide known ballet dancers of La Scala Milano was one of the highlights of the evening.
The evening was full of surprises including Glamorous models in Aquazzura heels in spinning bikes, Models with Amazon Sandals on the heads, Tip Tapo dances or even male models wearing tuxedos and bright pink stilettos.
Edgardo Osorio Aquazzura creative director and founder hosted the event followed by an intimate dinner. Among the International guests the “It girl” Olivia Palermo, The Duchess of Feria Naty Abascal, Sara Brajovic, Countess Livia Branca, Susy Menkes, Alejandra de Rojas, Schot Schuman, Ferrugio Ferragamo, Rachael Cavalli were some of the distinguished guests of this cocktail party in the fabulous Palazzo Corsini.
NYC 1993: experimental jet-set, trash and no star. The exhibition on the 1990s has just opened at the New Museum in NYC. The fragrance of the 1990s – the theme tune from Beverly Hills 90210 – Brandon Walsh vs. Dylan McKay.
Followed by broken, raw images from the world of skateboarding, Ken Park by Larry Clark and Paranoid by Gus Van Sant. California vs. Minnesota – Surf vs. grunge – Street vs. middle class.
And above all… the music: Nirvana, Green Day, Off Springs, The Hole, Garbage, EMF, the Cardigan. A series of fragments, grainy scenes from memory, a flash of sequences. This is the new MSGM Men’s 2014 Spring-Summer Collection.
The challenge: sophisticated sportswear and casual suits. It looked like the fun was over, but it was only hiding! Tie-Dye is our new mantra. Shibori tie-dye, in stripes, which turns into a biker flame, then psychedelic. and lastly a hologram.
The grunge flower is the new clashing match. A patchwork of camouflage snakeskin is our new obsession, the new print. The slogan is the usual exaggeration – MSGM rulez.
Surfer stripes in acid colours on trouser, tie-dye patchwork stripes on sweatshirts, stripes on jumpers over grunge, faded stripes on shirts, flowery stripes on parkas and anoraks.
The silhouette has changed. It is over, off the shoulder sleeves, set in sleeves. The sweatshirt is printed, worn, and combined with other materials to create original patchworks of colour and prints.
Even the most classic paisley is printed in acid colours, worn and transformed into a printed canvas.
Logo mania “M” mania. Raw edged cuffs and necklines on Oxford shirts and on the hems of canvas trousers. Baseball caps and rucksacks in print.
Blue, Olive green and khaki are non colours. Bright blue, rose, lime, red and geranium are the new colours.
London is the creative heart of Burberry and our global headquarters, so we are incredibly excited to be showing our next men’s collection here. The country’s proud menswear heritage and outstanding contemporary talent give it a unique and powerful energy. It is a wonderful time to be bringing our menswear show home’. Christopher Bailey, Burberry Chief Creative Officer
Watch the Burberry Prorsum Menswear Spring Summer 2014 show in Live Streaming, Tuesday 18 June at 2pm London time.
Stay Tuned…!!
AUSTERITY AND THE YEARNING FOR FEMININITY
THE DISCREET CHARM OF THE ERMANNO SCERVINO WOMAN
A stage set that allows us to glimpse, through vast sheets of tulle, large windows overlooking Florence and precious candelabra hanging from the ceilings, evoking the atmosphere of exclusive moments.
In this eclectic setting, where the future lies in the retrieval of tradition, in juxtaposing elements from different periods and creating a dialogue between them, the Ermanno Scervino woman takes to the runway.
Thus the collection for the forthcoming winter proposes the contamination of genres, in a new language for a woman with no holds barred.
Masculine fabrics, such as grey flannel illuminated by Swarovski crystals, interpret the original shapes of the coats, hugging the figure to delineate bust and waist.
Redolent of the bikers’ world are the padded reinforcements, the zipper closures and the open revers of calf-length coats in angora, leather and leopard-print fur, clasped at the waist.
Fur becomes a lead motif, played asymmetrically: enwrapping a sleeve or in the form of a majestic collar, falling to become a stole over soft, masculine-cut coats and jackets.
Asymmetrical cuts for the mini-dresses too, which next winter will be in softer, more fluid silks. Wasp-waisted, constructed silhouettes for the leather dresses.
Knitwear is illuminated by Swarovski crystals or engraved with phytomorphic embroideries in sensual tops to be matched with asymmetrical skirts.
And then a swathe of stunning material contrasts for the evening, where couture fabrics draw inspiration from the world of sports, like the biker-corset dresses in organza and chiffon, or organza skirts and gowns with patchwork inserts in flannel or leather.
The collection is rounded off by jewel accessories, such as the metal belts of art deco inspiration revamped in biker style and costume jewellery spattered with baguette-cut stones.
Bags and small leather goods
The new Bat Bag in mauve python and in leopard-print fur, the biker version Faubourg Bag in black nappa calfskin.
Shoes
D’orsay pumps and court shoes.
Fabrics
Flannel, angora wool, leather and python, organza, crepe de chine and crepe silks.
Colours
Greys, from dove to anthracite, off whites and glacé, mauve and burgundy, navy blue and black.
