N°21 FALL WINTER 2014-15 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

A delightful quirkiness, a fresh spontaneity: the funky defiance of conventions that comes from dressing according to instinct, bypassing the thought process. Glam! Slam! This season Alessandro Dell’Acqua plays with the coolest of codes, tweaks and subverts the rules by inviting a tomboy to the ball.

Taken by surprise, she promptly puts her ingenuity to work and invents a wardrobe all of her own. Pure fusion mode, so elevating the collage style to precise and brilliant art form. Joints and intersections forgo discretion, make a perfectly strong statement, as the true source of energy in today’s fashion universe is dissonant friction.

Multiple interplays of day/evening, mannish/feminine, severe/opulent moods find inspiration in the here & now, not in any glossy otherworld. It’s real life with a touch of magic. Embroidery gives the thick army flair pullover an amazing sheen. Feather inlays and sequin damier motifs add a special dash to the sides of the sleek simple dress and the smart cut-off trousers.

The shetland sweater makes a wicked match with the sumptuous skirt. The lavish ultrawarm wrap blooms dazzlingly with roses. All-time favorites from basic polo to boyish topcoat get down to essentials. By contrast, materials and working techniques are rich and precious, the sharp silhouette constantly offset by some startling element.

As in the array of dual-impact items: coats creating oppositions between elegantly intact front and fabulously decorative back, otherwise presenting unique mixes of fabric and fur; the knit sweater shading imaginatively toward a sheer swingy skirt; the polo taking new shape in embroidered velvet or simply morphing into a dress.

What sets the tone is an idea of freedom and naturalness, an unabashed sense of instinct with a deliciously personal twist. Voluptuous materials – wools, velvets, mohairs – come in a palette of classic black, gray, camel, khaki hues with iridescent red and turquoise sequin brights.

Accessories have fun with the upbeat/offbeat spirit: Chelsea boots with cabochon rich elastics, pointy toe ballerinas in dapple effect or high gloss leather, thick heel pumps with clip decors.