On the occasion of Autumn Winter 2020, Richard Quinn extends an invitation to the opening of his fashion dreamhouse.
Glamour, extravagance and optimism live behind the black-painted facade of this London address. Inside, its architect, decorator, designer and party-starter- in -chief has whipped up an interior populated with riotous colour and high fashion fantasy.
Draped and smothered in outsize roses, glinting with pearls and crystal, poufed, panniered corseted, the Quinn house style is an inclusive extravaganza which runs the gamut of volumes and silhouettes. The celebration of elaboration now offers a new welcome to entrance-making gentlemen as super-beaded super-flared wasp-waisted tailoring swaggers into fall in a subversive salute to Savile Row.
Richard Quinn couture fantasias are designed to with a mind to enhance good-time events on every continent. Nevertheless, the house of Quinn is a London enterprise to its foundations. Embedded in the line-up is a glorification of London working class couture: a procession of pearly kings and queens, their finery embroidered with the words GOD SAVE THE QUINN.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020, RICHARD QUINN, RICHARD QUINN FW 2020
Sat, February 22 2020 » Fashion Blog
In the exercise of documenting a generation, the call and repeat of appropriation and innovation becomes tangible. At a certain point, even the most recognizable tropes are subject to such interpretations that meaning is altered and new creative expressions are born. The MM6 collection for Autumn Winter 2020 considers this conceit, employing controlled methods to approach the zeitgeist whilst avoiding nostalgia itself. To wit: a Parisian maison, showing in London, inspired by New York.
Whilst delving into disparate eras of underground club culture and its glamorous protagonists, the MM6 collection subverts the expectations of myriad garments by applying the house concept of ‘circularity’. Draping exercises in the atelier have led to sculpted circle skirts and sweaters, whilst tailoring constructions see jacket sleeves displaced for a new posture.
A landmark collaboration with The North Face sees their iconic Expedition System outerwear transformed as padded circle coats, jackets, a top and dress. The urban connotation of colour-blocked all-weather gear permeates the collection, clashing with hound’s tooth, ribbed lurex, and Fair Isle knitting.
Offsetting the cape effect of curved tops, a series of detachable tailored sleeves tie behind the shoulders – furthering the effect of contrast layering through bright turtlenecks, lariat bodysuits and tabi gloves. MM6 reviews are shredded from fashion magazines and collaged into a custom ‘zebra’ motif applied on jacquard and satins pieces for a subversive take on this classic animalia print.
Across the MM6 accessories collection, the ‘circle’ concept is applied to conventionally geometric objects to create new forms such as the signature Japanese origami bag in stamped croc, circular bandanas, leather cardholders, and a round knitted hat. Musicality informs a percussive jewellery collection, from a tambourine choker to cymbal earrings and rings.
For a 1960 ́s East Village spirit revisited, a heavy chain-link bracelet is slung across biker boots with the cylinder ‘6’ stamp heel, finished in rough suede, mirrored silver, and thigh-high stretch leather. In collaboration with Mykita, textured Mylon bar frames eyewear styles merge high performance with an MM6 attitude.
Recorded by the MM6 studio, a custom vinyl recording played on the occasion of the AW20 presentation in London, England, consists of a six-channel track featuring isolated sonic expressions of the collection.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020, MM6 MAISON MARGIELA, MM6 MAISON MARGIELA FW 2020
Sat, February 22 2020 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 22 2020 » Fashion Blog
MEMORIES
‘Moving back to London recently – a city I first discovered as a young student – gave me a real sense of nostalgia. It was the place where I learnt to be myself and a city where I gained the confidence to be the man that I am today. I have this strong feeling of pride when I think about the early days of my career, when I was an emerging designer still learning my craft and taking inspiration wherever I could find it.
The memory of this special and formative time in my life is what has influenced this collection – from the places I visited and the people that surrounded me to the music that inspired me. It is this side of my personal journey that I wanted to blend with the codes and language that I have started to define here at Burberry.’
Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer
THE COLLECTION
Named Memories, Riccardo Tisci’s Autumn/Winter 2020 collection for Burberry takes inspiration from reflections of his early years as a young designer, whilst continuing to solidify key codes for the fashion house.
The collection captures Riccardo’s memories of the diverse places he visited, discovering who he was as a designer whilst developing his craft. From Italy where he was raised, to London where he studied, to India where he moved after graduating. The collection combines signature Burberry pieces – from trench coats, tailoring and duffle coats – with modern silhouettes, prints and fabrications.
WOMEN
The trench coat softened with off-the-shoulder silhouettes, exaggerated ties, curly shearling and faux fur. A car coat, blouson and blazer spliced with voluminous capes. Long collarless coats in double wool-cashmere and leather and equestrian-inspired quilted jackets.
Panelled tailoring, jodhpurs, fluted skirts and reconstructed shirt dresses in collaged check. Layered cricket stripes and prints, and cinched rugby-style dresses. Gathered details on dresses and blouses. Evening silhouettes in fluid chain mail, plaid and jersey – contoured with crystal fringing and ring-pierced cut outs.
MEN
Outerwear is explored through textural contrasts and updated check prints. The car coat combined with a field jacket. The duffle coat panelled in plaid wool and felted cashmere. Classic trench coats with attached hoodies, puffer jackets and double-lapel details.
English-fit jackets with reconstructed cuffs and lapels, styled with slim tailored trousers, silk-twill shirts and sweaters – all patchworked in plaid. Low-slung tapered trousers in tailored wool and plonge lambskin, reworked rugby shirts, and silk-chiffon tunic silhouettes.
ACCESSORIES
Introducing the Olympia bag collection, featuring a shoulder bag in three sizes and a crossbody bag. Fabrications include Monogram jacquard, star-appliquéd suede and smooth structured leather in rich saturated tones.
A supersized Pocket Bag, Society holdall and duffle bag in plaid. A metal paillette clutch for evening.
The Arthur sneaker is updated with a Cuban heel, a new hybrid style for men and women. Sculptural point-toe pumps, mules and boots with wraparound tie details. Men’s Derby shoes are reworked with a square toe and Cuban heel in polished leather and check cotton.
Transparent disc earrings with logoed studs, and earrings and rings with sculptural silhouettes.
KEY COLOURS
Burberry beige and grey with black, dark green, russet and metallic accents.
KEY PRINTS
Exploration of checks from Burberry House check and tartan to Prince of Wales plaid and muted shades of beige and red. The animal kingdom evolves through spotted monkey prints and elephant motifs.
(more…)
Tags: BURBERRY, BURBERRY FW 2020, FALL WINTER MEN 2020, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020
Thu, February 20 2020 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Moschino Fall Winter 2020 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 20 th February 2020 at 8.30 PM CET. Stay Tuned…!!!
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020, LIVE STREAMING, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2020
Thu, February 20 2020 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Alberta Ferretti Fall Winter 2020 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 19th February 2020 at 04.00 PM (CET). Stay Tuned…!!!
Tags: ALBERTA FERRETTI, ALBERTA FERRETTI FW 2020, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020, LIVE STREAMING
Wed, February 19 2020 » Fashion Blog
Birth Life Loss
Coming in from the sea…pray for me.
Tailored lace, Birthing smocks and Baptism cloths.
Trimmed and tipped with cotton baby.
Buoys, Aran knit and sailor stitch.
Lurex tweed with lurex teeth.
Shark tooth and pearl bones.
Sea salt eyes, ribbons and ties.
Fisherman’s nets catching pearls.
Trawling for quiet.
Riders in the sea.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020, SIMONE ROCHA, SIMONE ROCHA FW 2020
Wed, February 19 2020 » Fashion Blog
NATUROTICA
For Autumn Winter 2020, Christopher Kane continues to orbit themes of sex and nature by considering the perversion of Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden as a love triangle between man, woman and nature.
Wild with temptation, the lovers choose banishment from Paradise in exchange for one bite of forbidden fruit. Corrupted by their lust, they live in shame without the benevolence of the Divine Presence.
Since ancient times the triangle has symbolised the eye of a Supreme Being watching over the universe – an all powerful source in both the natural and unnatural world.
This narrative is translated literally with a print of Lucas Cranach the Elder’s Adam and Eve, through to a more abstract interpretation with triangular details dominating the collection. Minimalist bows, cut-outs, pockets, patchwork, A-line shapes and bodice construction all follow the triangle – nature’s strongest structure.
Gel returns as harnesses worn over coats and dresses, while suede winter boots are enhanced with gel implants and the signature Gel Bag takes on a conservative handbag shape that’s subverted with gel patches.
Snakeskin print shoes and bags are a serpentine presence with more animal accents from zebra and ocelot prints across skirts, dresses and coats. The palette is earthy with bursts of sky blue and apple red disrupting the tranquillity.
Recurring themes from cupcake silhouettes and G-string lace eveningwear to crystal mesh gowns mimic the clean lines of the triangle resulting in a new, austere feel.
(more…)
Tags: CHRISTOPHER KANE, CHRISTOPHER KANE FW 2020, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020
Wed, February 19 2020 » Fashion Blog
Tue, February 18 2020 » Fashion Blog
Tue, February 18 2020 » Fashion Blog
